I use water based paints from hobby lobby. Then I clear coat with auto clear DuPont chromo clear. I use a Finex HVLI gun. With great results.

I use FedEX.

I use an Aztek double action airbrush. I have various size paint cups that are ether gravity fed or siphon fed based upon the size. My Aztek has interchangeable tips for different spray patterns.

Like Tatman, I use water based acrylics. The majority of mine are Americana brand. There are two ways to colormatch and I use both. Primary is using a Pantone Color Guide. Get it off eBay for around $20 or so. Don't pay for the $60-$80 ones, just be patient, the $20 ones come around fairly often. Match your touchup area to a color on the guide, mark it (I write the name of the machine on it) and take it to your local Michael;s or hobby store. The other method is to mix your paints to get the shade you need. I use a 12"x12" piece of glass to mix on and them lay the glass on the playfield to see how closely I have matched the color. During the mixing process, I write down how many drops of what color I have added so that I can repeat it if I need more of the same color. When I have the right color I use Frisket to mask the area to be painted. I use a #11 scalpel blade to cut the Frisket. Scalpel blades are a higher quality steel than Xacto blades and stay sharp longer. If your blade isn't sharp it will pull/stretch the Frisket as it cuts and lift it from the surface. A good likelihood of paint seepage will occur if that happens. After cutting it with the scalpel, I use a nylon decal squeegee to ensure the edges are down.

No help here since I use Bondo for all repairs. After shaping and sanding I use the Pantone Guide to "match" the color of the surrounding wood and paint it.

For your last two questions, I can't help there as I've not had the occasion to do either of those types of repairs. Hopefully someone that has done those will chime in.

Lastly, I need to give proper credit where it's due. Some of what I learned I got from reading Cliffy's Jumping Jack restoration. I also learned about color matching wood from reading Chris Hutchin's restorations of several machines. I am definitely not, in any way and by any stretch of imagination, in the same category with either of those gentlemen. They both are phenomenal. However, through them I have been inspired and given the confidence to at least try some of these repairs myself. I practiced airbrushing for many hours on cardboard and old playfields that I was either given or had as a result of a swap out.

I'm basically doing everything like half_life is. I guess we both learned from watching the masters. As far as airbrushing is concerned choosing one is a matter of preference. I watched CL for a while and found a great set with a compressor ,7 airbrushes (badger&passche) and a ton of accessories. I've since found I stuck with the passche. They feel about the same burning find I have less issues with the passche. It's easier to clean also. As far as PF surface prep and leveling. I CC the whole thing first. Then sand it smooth. Then start my painting. CC again when done. Nothing worse than trying to paint over bare wood or planking. It just never looks right. I clear with a harbor freight hvlp gun and I use sherwin Williams first choice CC. Theres no DuPont around here or I would try chroma clear.

Geez HL, I'm blushing
Here's the link to my JJ resto http://www.passionforpinball.com/jjresto.htm

I also have pages for my Zac Pinbal Champ and Pinbot restos which may help. My Blue Ribbon resto page may be less useful for painting touchups but does have some good woodworking/patching info.

Watch out. Airbrushing is pretty addictive also. I picked up a Iwata hp-cs brush just to do pinball PF touch ups. The next thing I knew, the PF I was working on was left sitting for almost 2 1/2 months because I was practicing Script(calligraphy) lettering, drop shadows and highlights. It really is a neat tool.
Bill in Indiana