So I'm trying to isolate a no boot, no LED flash, I plan on repining the board and redoing the connectors but trying to see if the solenoid board is any good first. All the high voltage points are good, but both 5v's are dead, and when I checked the 11.9 it was good. As a temp fix I pulled the board, reflowed and brass brushed the pins, I burnished all the females and put it all back together, and again have the same thing, 0 on the 5v's and 11.9 on 5, but then I watched the tp5 go from 11.9 all the way to 0, and now its dead too. High volts are all still good. Is this the c23 c29 c24 or the e-710 maybe, I don't want to just throw a bunch of parts at it, or could this just be a pin and wire problem?

PS all the rectifier points read good, before and after the voltage drop on tp5

PSS right before I went to post this I said, ah hell, lets check the back of the 12 pin and see if there is juice, and there was, 11.9 and saw a little spark when I touched the back of the lead, stuck a toothpick in and TP5 is holding at 11.9, (yes I know this is not a permanent fix but still dead on the 5v's

I got a 5v from some old stock, ordered all the caps on that line, also ordered pins and connectors, will see if this all works. will update. Thanks!

ok, so replaced the 5v, I did the 3 recommended board mods since I had it out, I redid the connectors, still waiting for the heads but I went ahead and plugged it in to test it out and.... no 5v on 1 or 3. what am I missing, I mean I get the heads could be bad but I reflowed them, burnished, they should be able to hold to a quick test no? Is there anything else?

I did the ground mods earlier when I had the board out, I have the heads off right now I'll check the resistance on c23 return when I get the new heads on and board back in - anyone have suggestions on crimpers? the one I have did alright, but so bulky to hold in that tight of a spot, just awkward, If I'm doing the rest of this PIN I need something more nimble.

Bally BLACK JACK solid state, all the original boards

ok so whilst putting in the new heads I found 3 breaks in the copper on the PCB right at the heads, roughed up the copper, tin'd it and jumper'd them to the pins. also replaced the cap near the 1 3 and 5 test points, popped in the board got 5v, so plugged in the MPU and bingo I got all 7 lights and the bells went off. Displays are all messed up, and cant figure out how to get the thing to start playing, but that'll be a new post after I do some searching. Thanks!