Back to the Future: The Pinball
Data East, 1990
Mars God of War
Gottlieb, 1981well lets see it cost 400 for the game, 126 for board work, 33 bucks for drop targets springs and decals with extra decals and hex wrench for back box, little over 300 buck in LED's but some went into my dr dude, shiny balls 2 flipper coils and a pop bumper coil. 25 in rubbers. elbow grease free of charge!
BACK TO THE FUTURE (DE) Decal drop tgt. 820-5114-00 3 $4.00 $12.00
Wrench Hex Tool backbox latch 5/16" 777-0001-00 1 $6.25 $6.25
Spring - extension drop target reset 265-5003-02 3 $0.89 $2.67
Drop target - Data East/Sega white 545-5048-01 3 $2.50 $1.99 $5.97
Stern/Sega/Data East 090-5020-2OT Flipper Coil
090-5020-2OT_coil $14.00
(Not Taxable) 2 $28.00
Sega 090-5053-00/23-800 Coil
090-5053-00 $8.75
(Not Taxable) 1 $8.75
Ablaze 8-SMD-LED #89 Bayonet Base Flasher Lamp
abl_8-SMD-LED_bayonet_flasher
Options:
Choose A Color : White $1.20
(Not Taxable) 50 $60.00
Ablaze Ghost Busters #44/#47 Bayonet Based Lamp
abl_gb_bayonet
Options:
Choose A Color : White $1.11
(Not Taxable) 50 $55.50
Ablaze 8-SMD-LED #906 Wedge Base Flasher Lamp
abl_8-SMD-LED_wedge_flasher
Options:
Choose A Color : White $1.20
(Not Taxable) 50 $60.00
Ablaze 1-LED #44/#47 Bayonet Base Lamp With Concave Lens
abl_bayonet_concave
Options:
Choose A Color : Cool White $0.27
(Not Taxable) 120 $32.4
Ablaze Ghost Busters #555 Wedge Based Lamp
abl_gb_wedge
Options:
Choose A Color : Green $1.11
(Not Taxable) 10 $11.10
Ablaze Ghost Busters #555 Wedge Based Lamp
abl_gb_wedge
Options:
Choose A Color : Red $1.11
(Not Taxable) 10 $11.10
Ablaze Ghost Busters #555 Wedge Based Lamp
abl_gb_wedge
Options:
Choose A Color : Yellow $1.11
(Not Taxable) 10 $11.1
Quoted from dementedwarlok:Well the flipper coils are overpowering. I am afraid to put the glass on.
I think the flippers on this game have some serious kick! At least mine do. I'm constantly airballing shots off the glass.
Quoted from dementedwarlok:Well the flipper coils are overpowering. I am afraid to put the glass on.
Quoted from gern:I think the flippers on this game have some serious kick! At least mine do. I'm constantly airballing shots off the glass.
Oh good, so it's not just me then. Seriously, I'm afraid to play it half the time as I'm worried it's going to break some irreplacable plastic piece or shatter the glass (more concerned about parts breaking than the glass).
My pin has coil numbers 090-5020-30 (23-900) installed. The manual does list these as the correct part numbers, however the pull out schematic that comes with the manual lists the part as 22-900, otherwise known as 090-5020-20. Multiple websites also list this to be the right part number as well. Part of me wants to swap mine out for the 22-900, but according to the coil resistance figures on both coils the 22-900 should be slightly STRONGER than what I have now. No thanks!
Quoted from evileye:Oh good, so it's not just me then. Seriously, I'm afraid to play it half the time as I'm worried it's going to break some irreplacable plastic piece or shatter the glass (more concerned about parts breaking than the glass).
My pin has coil numbers 090-5020-30 (23-900) installed. The manual does list these as the correct part numbers, however the pull out schematic that comes with the manual lists the part as 22-900, otherwise known as 090-5020-20. Multiple websites also list this to be the right part number as well. Part of me wants to swap mine out for the 22-900, but according to the coil resistance figures on both coils the 22-900 should be slightly STRONGER than what I have now. No thanks!
yes the glass on the BTTF i have has been broke as I found alot of glass in the game. I am going to try a 5032 coil. there is 5020-30 in there now and they still KICK way to much. When i get those in I will report to you. The only other one pinball life sells is a 90 5041
Quoted from Lonzo:Make sure your targets have new foam behind them. If not, the target will bend to far back when the ball hits and it will deflect the ball in the air instead of straight back.
Oh, I didn't know there was suppose to be foam back there! Is that something you made? Was it standard on the machine? And, does anyone have a pic?
Quoted from dementedwarlok:yes the glass on the BTTF i have has been broke as I found alot of glass in the game. I am going to try a 5032 coil. there is 5020-30 in there now and they still KICK way to much. When i get those in I will report to you. The only other one pinball life sells is a 90 5041
Definitely keep me updated, because I would like to swap them out with something softer for sure. I cringe every time it gets airborne. For me it happens the most when I hit the DMC targets, but I've also seen it happen once off the slings as well.
Quoted from gern:Oh, I didn't know there was suppose to be foam back there! Is that something you made? Was it standard on the machine? And, does anyone have a pic?
Mine came with foam behind them. I'll try and snap a pic for you.
I've seen your inserts under both ramps have holes in them?
Thats a common problem on those BTTF's, i've seen at least 3 machines (mine included) where the inserts are burnt through by the lamps underneath.
i think thats also mentioned in the other BTTF-restore-thread by Lonzo..
Are you fixing this?
(pics of mine attached)
IMG_1752.jpg
IMG_1753.jpg
IMG_1749.jpg
IMG_1751.jpgVery common on this table, as mentioned earlier. My BTTF was shopped before I purchased it, and a couple of those were replaced. Easy to spot because they didn't have the railroad tracks painted on like the others did. Once you replace them, I suggest installing LED's so you never have to worry about that again.
I must be very lucky, mine does not have the burn through as pictured as others!
Mine also does not have foam behind drop targets.
I really scored when I got my BTTF, it was in a home in the same spot since 1993. I got the original paperwork and receipt from where the guy I bought it from bought it and the original receipt from where the guy I bought it from had from the original owner. Neither one of those owners played it often at all and I still can't believe I found such a nice example of this game. After some odds and ends and elbow grease it looks really good now!
Great job on yours man, looks good and you also got a hell of a score!
I haven't got mine finished yet so I can't test for air balls but the DMC targets are supposed to have a red flipper rubber behind them. This is thicker than the standard rubber and may have been done because the air ball problem. Most of the machines I have seen do not have the flipper rubber on them.
As far as the burned flasher inserts under the ramps I can only assume that this was caused by a burned transistor that caused the flashers to turn on steady. I would assume that a flashing bulb would not create enough hear to melt an insert but I may be wrong.
When I restored mine, I created a mask and painted the rail road tracks on the inserts I replaced before i clearcoated but I do have a few vinyl decals for them that I would be willing to send to someone if they have replaced theirs and didn't put the tracks back on.
Hey Lonzo, I know you're still working on your pin, but do you have a picture of the DMC drop target rubber you speak of? Is it attached to the targets themselves or to the posts behind them? Mine has white rubber, like the slings, and when the targets drop and I hit those bands, the ball speeds up a bit, but I don't think it gets as airborne as hitting the drop targets themselves.
warlock, its kind of hackish but might do.. try a 20w 2-ohm resistor in series to each flipper coil oughtta tame them some, if not enough try 3-ohm or 4-ohm, oughtta slow them enough to be comfortable with and large enough (20w) that they wont go soft if the resistor gets warmed up some. if you have the right coils there, they might as well stay and be correct I'd think, and the resistors can always be removed easily enough whenever.
Quoted from zizzlemeplease:warlock, its kind of hackish but might do.. try a 20w 2-ohm resistor in series to each flipper coil oughtta tame them some, if not enough try 3-ohm or 4-ohm, oughtta slow them enough to be comfortable with and large enough (20w) that they wont go soft if the resistor gets warmed up some. if you have the right coils there, they might as well stay and be correct I'd think, and the resistors can always be removed easily enough whenever.
Ordered a 5032 coil from pbl. Will update on it when I get the installed.
cool, my old sentinel demolition derby originally both flippers mechanically linked (yikk!), put in a right mechanism and 950 turns was so much faster than original left, it balanced nice with a big 3-ohm inline to it. definitely cheaper easier than swapping thru a bunch. simplistic sentinel sure doesnt compare to your project but resistors sure handy.
Quoted from evileye:Hey Lonzo, I know you're still working on your pin, but do you have a picture of the DMC drop target rubber you speak of? Is it attached to the targets themselves or to the posts behind them? Mine has white rubber, like the slings, and when the targets drop and I hit those bands, the ball speeds up a bit, but I don't think it gets as airborne as hitting the drop targets themselves.
Its just a standard Flipper rubber as indicated in the pic above. I am not sure if the white one is supposed to be there or not.
5032 coil does not make a difference still get air balls. my only next option is a 5041 and that may be to weak. guess air ball glass smashes is something we have to deal with.
Quoted from dementedwarlok:5032 coil does not make a difference still get air balls. my only next option is a 5041 and that may be to weak. guess air ball glass smashes is something we have to deal with.
At what point does the ball go airborne? Off the flipper bat or the targets? If its off the targets then they need to be adjusted.
seems to happen on the ramps and the drop targets. I keep looking at those flippers thinking they are off a bit. Now i just need a few mins to adjust
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Highland, IN
Bad Fischau Brunn
