(Topic ID: 64422)

Monster Bash Flasher Blowing Fuse

By sillyoldelf

10 years ago



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#1 10 years ago

I've narrowed down the problem to the playfield flashers blowing the fuse.
Removed J133 and tested. Fuse okay. So plugged back in J133 removed J111 and fuse still okay.

So it's either bride, frankenstein, dracula, creature, jets/muumy, right popper flasher or right frank arrow.

How do I narrow it down further. All the wires look okay and I can't see any shorts.
Should I remove the bulbs and test or do I have to unsolder or the wires and then retest one by one?

Any advice would be most welcome as I would really like to solve this myself.

#2 10 years ago

Be sure that the sockets are not touching anything on the playfield.

You can remove the bulbs to test but do it in reverse. Remove all flasher bulbs then one at a time install them until you find the trouble socket.

Use a circuit breaker so that you dont waste good fuses.

Can you see if one or more of the bulbs are burned?

You may also have a drive transistor shorted. Do the flashers remain on during power up before the fuse blows?

#3 10 years ago

Hi eddie

Thanks for the suggestions. I can't see sockets are touching anything or any wires.
I'm actually using LEDs and all have been fine - the problem just started.

The flashers don't remain on - the fuse blows straight away before they light. The backbox flashers work fine and wolfman loop flashers and rear wolfman flasher.

How do I check drive transistor?

#4 10 years ago

Check your manual for the transistor related to the feature it has a "Q" number which corresponds to the Q number on the PDB.

A simple but not very accurate Tip 102 test for a newbie. Using your DMM set on continuity mode ( you will hear a buzz when touching probes together)

Hold one probe to the ground braid and touch the metal tab of the TIP in question with the other probe.

If you hear the Buzz tone the tip is shorted.

#5 10 years ago

What I did to find the solution was to put j111 connector on backbox lightly into the socket so I could just see pins.

I then turned on flasher power and watched j111 to see where it parked. From this I took the cable colour on the pin and checked manual to see what flasher it referred too. From this I found it was right pop flasher and traced it back to a short in wire touching play field metal.

The only problem I have now is that the light on the right pop flasher is lit continuously during tests instead of flashing.

If anybody knows why this is, I would be grateful to know cause.

#6 10 years ago

Replace the drive transistor for that flasher.

#7 10 years ago

Yeah replaced q25 with new transistor and it works again. Damn it was fiddly removing and soldering a new one back in.

Must be an easy way to de solder and remove all the pins - some sort of tool?

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