(Topic ID: 85925)

HSII: The Getaway flippers work intermittently

By frunch

10 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

#1 10 years ago

I've been chasing this problem down for a long time, but I still can't seem to get them working properly. Most recently, while playing a game, the right flippers stopped working. I kept the flipper button held down, went to switch test in the diagnostics, and the switches were not showing up on the switch test. Tried hitting the flipper button a few more times, still nothing coming up on the switch test. Finally they started working again, and would not act up! Here's what I've done so far:

-All EOS and flipper switch wires test good from switches to connector for Fliptronic board
-Installed new flipper switches
-Replaced EOS and flipper switch connector pins and housings on Fliptronic board
-Re-flowed solder to EOS and flipper switch header pins on Fliptronics board
-EOS switches were replaced when rebuilding flippers, all test good with meter

After trying all this stuff, I'm still getting occasional intermittence from both right flippers and the left flipper--the strength of the flippers seems to fluctuate a bit too. They typically will start acting up within 1-3 games.

Any ideas?
Thanks!

#2 10 years ago

Take a good look a these:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_WPC_Fliptronics_board_repair

"Check the flipper power connections. On non-fliptronics games, this is connectors J109 and J110 on the power driver board. Make sure the solder joints on these board header pins are not cracked, and that the connector and header pins are in good shape.

Check the bridge and capacitor that supplies voltage for all coils (BR3 and C8). An open diode in the bridge rectifier that supplies power to the flippers can cause weak flippers. A fatigued or cracked solder joint on this bridge (or its associated capacitor) can do that too. Soldering jumper wires from the bridge to its associated capacitor is a good idea. This is rare, but does happen. This problem will effect BOTH flippers equally. See the section, Testing Bridge Rectifiers for more information."

<and> a boatload of information on WPC fliptronics here:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#flip0

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

"Check the flipper power connections. On non-fliptronics games, this is connectors J109 and J110 on the power driver board. Make sure the solder joints on these board header pins are not cracked, and that the connector and header pins are in good shape.

This is exactly what was wrong with one of my games left flipper. Found the cracked solder on one of the pins and the game has played flawlessly ever since.

#4 10 years ago

Lots of good info there, wayout440! Thanks! I'd like to try bench-testing the Fliptronics board, anyone had experience doing that? It doesn't look too difficult, but then again, I've never done it before. Can anyone point me to more info regarding bench testing boards like this?

Would I be better off simply replacing the LM339's? The ones on the board appear to be the original parts. Not that I'm one for 'shotgun' parts replacement, but I figure they're cheap to buy and will probably be due for replacement sooner or later.

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Lots of good info there, wayout440! Thanks! I'd like to try bench-testing the Fliptronics board, anyone had experience doing that? It doesn't look too difficult, but then again, I've never done it before. Can anyone point me to more info regarding bench testing boards like this?
Would I be better off simply replacing the LM339's? The ones on the board appear to be the original parts. Not that I'm one for 'shotgun' parts replacement, but I figure they're cheap to buy and will probably be due for replacement sooner or later.

Your welcome, frunch

I'd help you in more detail about testing the Fliptronics boards, but I just don't have the experience with these. Hopefully, a WPC owner can give you further assistance. All I can say about the LM339s is that I often see them mentioned as a problematic part. That may not be your problem, but if you replace them correctly it would be parts that could be moved down your list of suspects to help weed out the problem.

#6 10 years ago

I just replaced my ribbon cables to fix a reset problem I was having and when I put the one in my fliptronics board I accidentally bent the pin the powers the flippers and they didn't work. I'm only mentioning this because of the random rests I was having are gone so maybe check your ribbon cable connections. Mine were very loose to where I could pull the cable off one handed, not much pressure.

#7 10 years ago

Thanks for your responses!

Wayout: I'll go ahead and change out the LM339's, and socket them while I'm at it. Hopefully that will fix it, but if it doesn't--like you said, it will at least eliminate one more potential culprit.

Geocab: good call, I hadn't thought to check the ribbon connector. It seems tight, but I'll test it to make sure it's reading continuity. I may just swap it out with a new one to eliminate it as a problem as well.

If I make any progress, I'll report back!

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