Hi Collasta
thanks for the videos and the clarification. Yes the "Number-1- and Number-2-Star-Relays" are activated "almost at the same time". The same is "No-3- and No-4-Star-Relays". The pin came with this faulty behaviour. I make it simple to me and I say "an preowner made a hack / modification". The second fault "Eject-Hole makes the rest of the Number-Relays pull-in - but rather slow" came with the pin in Your possession --- I made a theory for You to test - but the theory can be faulty.
The hack --- look in the JPG (A) the Score-Motor-Switches "4-B, 3-B, 1-B, IND-B" - all these switches have on one switchblade soldered-on "wire-color-red-white". The other switchblades of these switches have different wire-colors soldered-on. Then look at the JPB (B) - see how I exchanged the wires soldered-on "4-B" / "3-B" --- and I have exchanged the wires "1-B" / "IND-B" (?) I believe "JPG (A) is original and schematics --- JPG (B) is what You have in Your pin".
See on the bottom of post-2, JPG the drawing of the Score-Motor - the real engine / motor is outmost right - then comes INDEX-Wheel, then comes Wheel-named-Number-1 then the others (((easy to see are the Impulse-Wheels))).
Look at Score-Motor-Switch-4-B and Score-Motor-Switch-3-B - see wire-color-red-white (?) and now the questions: WHAT colors have the other lugs / switchblades soldered-on ? The same applies to SCM-1-B and SCM-IND-B.
Want to try: Unsolder at SCM-4-B and SCM-3-B and solder the two wires on EXCHANGED, same applies to SCM-1-B and SCM-IND-B.
I very much dislike to work on Score-Motor-Switches --- I have a trick - I say: It is my pin - I allow myself to take a scissor and CUT a wire --- about 3 to 5 inches away from the solder-lug. I buy myself some male and female plugs*** - mount the plugs - and with this I easily can do some "other wiring" ...
plugs***: K-Mart and such stores, automotive departement, car-electrics sell such plugs - I can squeeze the holding of the plug and the wire is mounted --- very comfortable. I use a cigarette-ligter to burn away the fabric insulation of the wires.
The wacky theory on "Eject-Holes make the Star-Relays pull-in": Maybe (maybe) at end of "Making the "No-1- and No-2-Relay to pull-in (((and Yes these must stay pulling))) - but the "Target-Relay MUST quit pulling at end of the feature --- my theory is - JPG (D), encircled rosa / pink is faulty - I suspect Score-Motor-5-B is not truely opening. Lift up the playfield - make as in the video the "C-, D-Targets" drop --- THEN look at the TARGET-Relay - question: Does it FAULTY stays pulling ?
And the "put the ball in the Eject-Hole" actually makes the Score-Motor to do another turn and as the Targets-Relay is faulty pulling: JPG (A) the No-3- and No-4-Star-Relays are made pulling.
I LIKE the Williams pins with the situation I show on JPG (C) --- The topmost-switch on the Index-Wheel is the "Score-Motor-Self-Hold-Switch" --- pin is in play - for some reason we want a turn of the Score-Motor: We gently press down the topmost switchblade on the Index-Wheel and we get the turn.
So instead of putting the ball after the "C-D-DROP-Target dropping" into the Eject-Hole: ONLY make the Score-Motor do a turn --- what happens ?
Theory to the hack: Study the bottom of post-2, JPG --- the Score-Motor-Wheels are turned clockwise --- SCM-4-B actuates (in time) after the SCM-3-B.
SCM-3-B would like to activate No-2-Star-Relay --- but the "Switch on No-1-Star-Relay" is not yet closed - as the No-1-Star-Relay is not yet made pulling.
The turning Score-Motor then closes SCM-4-B - NOW the No-1-Star-Relay pulls in and closes its "Switch on No-1-Star-Relay" - but by now the SCM-3-B is over - is open again ...
Greetings Rolf
0Grand-Prix-Work-18 (resized).jpg