So I would assume you've checked every switch in the 14E string for continuity. But if it only happens in certain situations, one would think it's more specifically related to those particulars. I would still do a really thorough visual inspection of all switch stacks looking for possible shorts like a small screw or blob of solder. It's happened to me. Stumped on a problem and found some physical short, though they can be really hard to spot. Hopefully Team EM will chime in here as well.

Just watched the vid...you've got some pretty big blue-spark situation going on there between what ever that relay is and the stepper unit you showed. Did you check the coils to see if you have a bad or dying out one? Also which you probably already did, on that relay that's 'sparking' make sure all switches are adjusted properly/clean/and in the right slots in the actuator...contacts are present on the switch blades. POWER OFF you can mechanically work it and see if all is correct. My guess is a coil going bad...or is already. Good luck.

Could it be a magnetized coil in the relay keeping it closed enough for the hold on switch to keep re firing the coil. Try a thin piece of paper between the core end & armature on the relays that keep firing. It should stop them if it is magnetized armature.

Anything 'going on'/noticeable w/any of the the score motor switch(s)when the relays pull in and arc real bad?

You don't have an AX latching relay in that game do you? I just worked on 2 latching relays (AX & BX) and a regular ag game over relay on a Royal Flush to fix my game over issue. Did you adjust the latching relays according to Clay's new video on pinrepair? If they're adjusted right you should hear a click as you manually operate it. There's not much movement in the latching relay switches.

This type of problem is often caused by a mechanical issue in the buzzing relay adding excessive return force. I had one do this once because the armature plastic melted on to the blade, due to another relay locking on - the big blue spark can generate a lot of heat.

Also, check to see if one or more switches jumped out of it's correct spot and is adding too much force to the relay.

For fun, you may want to remove the spring one at a time from the two relays and see if it affects the problem. This isn't a fix, just an experiment.

Hey, I see you are in Pinckey. I'm in AA if you really get stuck, give me a PM and we will see what we can do.

Garrett,

I actually gained some experience this weekend with sparking switches. In the instance I learned on a Jumping Jack a switch was gapped too open and was keeping bonus from scoring consistently. There was a noticable blue spark at the culprit switch. Closing the gap fixed the contact issue and i suspect there was a timing issue that also improved with the switch closed up some and gapped properly.

Reading about your issue and then looking at your video you sure do have a lot of blue sparks. Just to see what I might be able to help with I read through Clay's EM guide where he talks about turning the lights out to identify the switches in a sparking circuit. In the example he shared he talked about the switches being adjusted too close.

So between both examples I would suggest you revisit the gap at the switches that are sparking. Maybe you are too close - maybe you are too open. This may be an the issue if you adjusted a lot of switches in going through the relays.

Not sure if this will help but will be easy enough for you to review. Keep us posted and maybe another Team-EM'er will chime in.

Mike O.
Team-EM

Garrett,

One other thing for you and newmantjn. I'm also a former Michigander. I'm originally from Muskegon and went to school in AA from 1974 to 1982.

There was an operator that placed games in South Quad that were available to us 24/7. I got hooked on Drop A Card as my first game because it was 3 plays for a quarter where the newer games were 2 plays for a quarter. Little did I know I was getting additional value for my money since DAC is such a great game. A couple of years later got hooked on Atlantis, my desert island game.

Makes me wonder if either of you own games I played back in the day. There is a way you can tell. We used to write our names and/or initials and high scores on the face of the head. Must have driven the operator nuts. Makes me cringe now thinking of how we were so hellbent on defacing these artworks. If you have any of these where "Oscar" is listed as responsible for any of the high scores that's me. It's a nickname some of my high school buddies gave me.

Mike O.
Team-EM

I would agree that it is likely a switch gap issue. The way you described it as 'getting worse' is something I recently experienced on a newly restored pin. In my case, I suspect the game was stored with the reset bank (Flipper Pool as a 4 switch stack unit) in the tripped position. Two switch blades were gapped likely due to being in the tripped position for a long time. Once I adjusted those for a closer gap, the problem went away (was adding an extra ball at reset). I have found 90% of EM issues are related to faulty switching-which is no wonder considering how many there are and how easily they can go out of proper adjustment.

One last thought...switch stack screws tight? If not tighten one closest to blades 1st.

I recently had a double bonus bug in my Spirit of 76. I had been through all associated switches... Cleaning them, gapping etc yet the intermittent issue continued.

I had been using a flexstone to clean them. I eventually traced it back to a score motor switch. The switch was gapped very well but current would stop flowing intermittently through it as the bonus was being paid out, causing a relay to drop off and only part of the bonus to be awarded.

I cleaned the score motor switch again using a metal file I kept for decades from my pinball shop days. It has about the same sharpness as a common nail file, mabe a bit sharper. My bonus bug has been fixed ever since. I'm pretty sure bits of the flex stone had been left behind, lodged in the switch contact which was removed by my metal file.

I don't know if this is related to your issue or not but it's another wierd thing to cause malfunction.

That is one reason I prefer a dremel. This ^^^^ is all to common a problem.

To OP, we are having a Detroit Pinball League night at my house on Sat. I believe we will have room for a guest if you would like to bring your game over and play in the League. Warmup at 6:00, play starts at 7:00. I would likely not get to the game until Sunday.

PM me for address etc. if you are interested.

If that doesn't work out, I can probably make it out next week some night to your place.

Time to unplug and remove the play field. "Divide and conquer." If the problem persists, it's in the back box or bottom board. If it goes away, it's on the play field.