(Topic ID: 328480)

Gottlieb 300 with intermittent ball count issues

By Peruman

1 year ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by paulace
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#1 1 year ago

A friend’s 300 has some intermittent ball count issues. Went over to his house to check it out, played four separate single player games and the ball counts went as follows (it’s set for 5-balls):

Game 1: 1-2-3-4-5 (no issues here)
Game 2: 1-1-2-3-4-5 (gave two ball 1’s)
Game 3: 1-1-2-3-4-4-5 (two ball 1 & 4)
Game 4: 1-2-3-4-5 (no issues again)

He’s told me the same thing happens with multiplayer games, extra balls get added.

Checking the possible paths for the Add Player Unit coil, I checked the U, P, and 1A switches all were operating properly per my voltmeter. I cleaned and adjusted 1A as this was an issue on a 300 that someone else had posted on this board. None of this cleared the issue.

Could the problem be with the NC Z1 & Z2 switches that are in the head? That’s probably where I’m going to look next, but I would appreciate extra guidance.

I’m wondering if the Z1 and Z2 switches are just barely closed and the action of the bonus ball counter in the head is messing up the flow of current from the power rail through the switches to the return path.

Regards

Alberto

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#2 1 year ago

Does that Add Player Unit solenoid try to activate when this happens?

#3 1 year ago

Howard will get that game fixed!

#4 1 year ago

Hi Alberto,
I just had that same problem with a Card Whiz I was working on. My problem was those Z1,Z2 switches (or the equivalent on Card Whiz)...like you said, one wasn't closing tightly enough and would occasionally open, preventing the Add Player Unit Solenoid from firing, and thus repeating a ball now and then. So it's certainly possible, though Howard will help you work through it logically to figure out where the problem lies.

I hooked a jumper from the non-black side of the Add Player Unit coil, to the left side of the Motor 1A switch (on your schematic) and the problem went away, so I knew the problem was where I had jumped.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Does that Add Player Unit solenoid try to activate when this happens?

I did not check this (I should have) I’ll go back and take a look. I was so focused on the electrical part that I never checked the Player Unit mechanically.

Alberto

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from paulace:

Hi Alberto,
I just had that same problem with a Card Whiz I was working on. My problem was those Z1,Z2 switches (or the equivalent on Card Whiz)...like you said, one wasn't closing tightly enough and would occasionally open, preventing the Add Player Unit Solenoid from firing, and thus repeating a ball now and then. So it's certainly possible, though Howard will help you work through it logically to figure out where the problem lies.

When I go back I’ll jumper those two switches (Z1 & Z2), see if that clears the problem.

Regards

Alberto

1 week later
#7 1 year ago

Update on this, went back this morning to troubleshoot some more. When the issue happens, the Player Unit was not stepping, but it was definitely intermittent.

I adjusted the NC Z1 and Z2 switches so they were closed a bit more, but still open when the coil pulled in. We played about a dozen single player games with no issues.

I thought I had resolved it until my buddy called me and said it happened a couple of times when he was playing a four player game with his grandsons. Player 3 got two extra balls and player 4 also got two extra balls. He did not have more details on which balls it was. So the issue is still there, just happening less.

Next time I go, I’m going to clean the Jones plugs (have not done that yet) and then re-check the Z1 and Z2 switches.

Could the issue be through one of the reset switches? The game resets with no issue, so those should all be open at the end of the reset cycle with only Z1 and Z2 closed, correct?

Alberto

#8 1 year ago

Really sounds like Z2, thats the only switch common to p3 and p4. Sometimes the pad can be loose in the finger, I like to take my heavy needlenose pliers and crush the pad on both sides of the contact.

#9 1 year ago

Hey Alberto,
No, those reset switches on the score reels are closed when the reset cycle ends and all the score reels read zero. That's how the schematic is drawn - one-player game started, reset completed, ball in shooter lane, game unplugged. But they open and close randomly while you're scoring. As long as Z1 and Z2 stay closed, the state of those reset switches doesn't matter - Z1 and Z2 short past them and allow the "Add Player Unit" coil to fire.

The path outlined in red is what fires the "Add Player Unit" coil in a 4-player game.

300 PU circuit (resized).JPG300 PU circuit (resized).JPG

Those green connections in the Coin Unit are all open during 4-player games, so the P2G, P3G and P4G switches don't enter into it. It'll have to be one of those switches in the red path that isn't closing consistently.

What pinhead52 mentioned about squeezing contacts with pliers to ensure a good connection with the leaf is a good idea - I've had to do that too. In fact, I often solder the contact to the leaf if one's giving me problems....might be overkill, but it works.

#10 1 year ago

In my experience the switch in the head and the long metal arm that the balls rest on is what need to be adjusted. It’s a very fine line to get it right. The issue is the the balls shift (roll backwards) when the coil kicks the ball in front of it down to the lower area.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

In my experience the switch in the head and the long metal arm that the balls rest on is what need to be adjusted. It’s a very fine line to get it right. The issue is the the balls shift (roll backwards) when the coil kicks the ball in front of it down to the lower area.

kermit24

The bonus balls work and count well. The issue with this machine is that it Will intermittently give a player extra balls in play. For example, Player 2 might get two Ball 2’s before it moves on to the next Player or the next Ball.

Alberto

#12 1 year ago

paulace

When you solder the contacts, are you soldering the edge of the contact point to the leaf blade or are you putting a drop on the solder on the portion you would normally flatten to install the contact point.

I’m going back to my buddy’s later this week to work some more on this issue.

Alberto

#13 1 year ago

I solder the side opposite the contact - the rounded part that's peened down to hold the contact on the blade.

Like pinhead52 said earlier, if the extra balls are only occurring on 3 and 4 player games, then look at switch Z2. Do you understand why?

#14 1 year ago

@paulace, it is because Z2 is connected in parallel with the reset switches on the Player 3 & 4 scores reels. Z1 takes care of Player 1 & 2.

Thanks again,

Alberto

#15 1 year ago

You got it! Good luck, Alberto!

#16 1 year ago

I think the issue is solved. Cleaned and adjusted the Z2 switch again. Before that I squeezed the contacts down with some pliers. Played about 1/2 dozen games with no issues. Hopefully that was it.

My buddy’s “300” only came with 5 of the bonus balls. We tried unsuccessfully to find 5 more. He talked with a company that makes billiard balls, sent them the measurements, and they made him 10 replacement bonus balls. They are black but look fantastic.

The new balls are 8 grams heavier and also .05” wider in diameter but they look and work great. Total cost for 10 balls was $90.

Thanks again for all the help,

Alberto

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#17 1 year ago

I like those black balls! What are they made out of? Same plastic as billiard balls? (I'm assuming those are plastic these days, not ivory.)

#18 1 year ago

Same plastic as billiard balls.

Alberto

#19 1 year ago

You know, I'd be anal-retentive enough to try to drill 3 "finger holes" in each ball to remove some of that excess weight. Don't know if you could drill out 8g worth of plastic, but I might try it just for fun. Anyway, they look great!

#20 1 year ago

This problem is still not resolved. Intermittently it keeps giving extra balls but now to Player 1 and Player 2. What makes this hard to debug is that it’s intermittent.

I think my next step might be to rebuild the NC Z1 and Z2 switches.

Any other suggestions as to what switch in that chain might be the cause of the issue? I’m at a loss. Every time I think it’s resolved, the issue pops up again.

Thanks,

Alberto

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Peruman:

This problem is still not resolved. Intermittently it keeps giving extra balls but now to Player 1 and Player 2. What makes this hard to debug is that it’s intermittent.
I think my next step might be to rebuild the NC Z1 and Z2 switches.
Any other suggestions as to what switch in that chain might be the cause of the issue? I’m at a loss. Every time I think it’s resolved, the issue pops up again.
Thanks,
Alberto

Alberto, I had virtually the same issue on my Top Card and it drove me nuts. The behavior is similar. It would work fine on most balls but then might not advance once or twice in a 5 ball game. Sometimes more. What I thought had to be electrical turned out to be mechanical. The issue on mine turned out to be a screw that was just a hair loose on the ball count unit. Without pulling the machine out, I seem to recall that the screw was behind the Bakelite and tightened to the shaft.

Might be something else but it’s worth a shot. I can take a picture later if needed.

Danny.

#22 1 year ago

Any of those switches in the red path in post #9 could be a possibility. There's a BX switch in there - those interlock relays are notoriously finicky.

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