Is the 1st chute adjustment plug in the "2nd Chute" position?

Figured as much, thought it couldn't hurt to ask.

So with the plug in the '5' position, you'll note that the path directly bypasses the 2C, 4C, 4B score motor switches. But since the '4' position also doesn't work, then that narrows it down to just 2C being the culprit; it has to be closed in order for any of 2, 3, or 4 to work. I'd suggest focusing there.

These switches can 'look' closed, but it requires a strong light to really see them, and even if closed, dirty contacts can still prevent a connection.

For Sure Shot, the motor card info will be in the Operator's Manual instead of on a card stapled in the cabinet.

The C level will be even with the top cam. Don't know how many switches are at the 2C stack, but if there aren't so many normally closed ones, process of elimination may narrow it down.

More of a long shot, but if the 2nd chute jones pug receiver is corroded, then it could just be that the plug isn't making good connections there. (Just mentioning for completeness.)

I haven't really encountered many wire color differences from the schematic, unless it's a sample game or something.

If you know which switch it is at 4C, you could jumper from there back to the '5' plug and also bypass 2C, rather than jumper directly at 2C. (So the OR+BLK or BL+BLK.)

Since the “5” works, and the “4” doesn’t I agree the problem is in the OR+BLK wire or the 2C contact.

Get a voltmeter/continuity tester, etc.

Power off, unplug from wall (want everything in the “normal” state).

Unplug 2nd Chute Adj Pin from everything.

Find the “W” relay. Identify the C stack, N/O leaf (the “right” side of W). If there are multiple C contacts on W, then you’ll need to use the continuity tester to identify the correct N/O leaf by checking continuity between 5 and each N/O leaf. Once you’ve identified this circuit, I would expect both the 5, and N/O (right side) of W to both be BR+BLK.

Now do the same test between 5 and EVERY contact on the 2C stack. Since 2C is N/C, once you get continuity to a 2C contact, you might be testing the “left” or “right” side of 2C. Manually open (stick a piece of paper between the contacts) to the identified 2C contact. Once opened, one side of 2C should show continuity to 5 and W-N/O. I would expect that side to be BR+BLK. The *other* side of the 2C contact should be OR+BLK and should show continuity to 4.

One big problem with these machines is there’s usually a double wire somewhere and the circuit doesn’t physically “match” the drawing. The wires could look like any of these:

5-----W,N/O----2C (W,N/O with double wires)
W,N/O----5----2C (5 with double wires)
5-----2C-----W,N/O (2C with double wires)

In all 3 cases, 5, 2C and W,N/O are electrically connected and the electrons don’t care how the machine is physically wired!!! But it makes it extremely difficult to understand when you’re looking at a drawing.

I hope that helps identify things.

If the 2nd chute adj. plug is left unplugged entirely (so in 2, 3, 4, or 5), how many credits does it give?

That alone still suggests there's an open along the 4B - 4C - 2C path then.

If you test continuity from left of 2C to right of 4B, what do you get?

So I'd still suspect 2C, given that your jumping from 5 to other points got some credits.

This was 2 weeks ago, how am I suppose to remember that far back???<g>

I re-read my earlier email and I realized there might be some confusion. When I said "right" or "left" side of 2C, I was discussing the contacts on the PRINT. That won't necessarily match the physical left or right.

I thought the original issue was you weren't sure of the color codes. My suggestion was intended to help you identify which wire went where and then confirm the color codes.

Since 5 works and 4 doesn't (nor does 3 or 2) it seems like the problem is in the OR+BLK -> 2C section.

It sounds like you've located the correct 2C contact. When the 2C contact is off the cog, and it's closed, you should have continuity between 4, 2C (both sides), 5 and W N/O (BR+BLK leaf). ALL 5 POINTS(!) should have continuity.

If you rotate the motor so 2C opens, you should see 2 sets of continuity:

1) W N/O, 5, 2C (left side from print). Probably all BR+BLK wiring
2) 4, 2C (right side of print). Probably both OR+BLK wiring

TEST: Put continuity tester on 4 & 5. Rotate motor. You should get on / off / on / off ... as you rotate the motor.

Also, make sure all the relays are off. This includes tripping all the bank relays. And make sure you have the fuses removed. It's too easy for continuity to go the wrong way down the power buss, through the transformer, back up the return buss and through the coil and give you a false continuity reading. (Since you're working on a small section around the W N/O contact I wouldn't think this would happen, but better safe than confused).

Way cool. Congrats!