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(Topic ID: 335908)

EM Pop Bumper Switch Gaps?

By mdo1998

1 year ago


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  • 34 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by mdo1998
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#11 12 months ago
 
GHL

Garrett

Pinside+ Frequent

US Pinckney, MI

11y 92,300 3,275 3 45

Did anyone mention to make sure the EOS switch is gapped to allow a full stroke of the armature?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic/page/3

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#18 12 months ago
 
GHL

Garrett

Pinside+ Frequent

US Pinckney, MI

11y 92,300 3,275 3 45

Quoted from Mikala:

Part of the obvious issue here you are expecting your Gottlieb’s to play like your Williams games, that’s never going to happen here. Especially when comparing an Aztec & Big Deal play to a Sure Shot. I restore and clean all my games the same, which is very through. Gottlieb games are just going to appear slow compared to your Williams. Everyone who plays my machines notices this when bouncing from a Williams to a Gottlieb.

This has been my experince as well.

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#27 12 months ago
 
GHL

Garrett

Pinside+ Frequent

US Pinckney, MI

11y 92,300 3,275 3 45

What does the coil paper look like on the problem pop? Burnt or not?

The contact pads should be there for best long term operation. You can get new leaf switches or just the contatcs and solder them in. Some people will just blob solder in the hole where the pad once was.

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#33 11 months ago
 
GHL

Garrett

Pinside+ Frequent

US Pinckney, MI

11y 92,300 3,275 3 45

I would assume you have moved the pop assemblies by hand to feel for any noticelable difference in slop or friction? Is the pop body still in good condition or is it starting to wear through?

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