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(Topic ID: 168148)

data east cpu board parts list.


By marcocapetown

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 39 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 65 days ago by arolden
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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DE cpu3 5V.jpg
IMG_5404 (resized).JPG

#1 4 years ago

after looking around on the interwebs i could not for the life of me find a parts list for these boards... the cpu board is probably the worst, cause having to find a part on 4 pages of schematics kinda gets abit much at times.
why did data east not add this? i mean gottlieb and williams did with their games?

anyhow
so i figured do it once and its done. took awhile lol and was not the most fun job but it needed to be done.
i have received so much free info from others its kinda time to repay abit, maybe someone finds this usefull. i know its surely making my life abit easier now.

here is the cpu boards part list, now this is not 100% complete yet or pefect maybe someone can assist somewhat in some of the areas i had questions to. everything with a question mark next to it i did not know what to make of what they saying in the schematic. also i might have missed something or made a error or two lets call this a work in progress
-----------------------------------
this is for all DataEast/Sega Version 3 cpu boards.

* all resistors are 1/4 watt unless otherwise indicated
* check cpu board assembly diagram in game manual for parts locations

048-055 - 2N3904
c1 - 470P
C40-C45,C82,C83 - .01 ?? maybe .01Uf?
c74-c81 - .01M
C87 - 1M 35v
C88 - .21 ? no idea .21uf perhaps? Ceramic Capacitor (Axial)
C89 - 47uf 16v
C46-C57,C102,C103 - .1U Ceramic Capacitor (Axial)
C130 - .047M
C2-C39,C131-c156 - 47Qp
C157 - 470Uf 25V
C158 - .1M
c58-c65 - 47P
C84,C85,C86,C94,C95,C98,C99,C100,C101 - CANT SEEM TO FIND VALUES OF THOSE IN THE SCHEMATICS?? .1Uf perphaps?
D1-D6 - 1N5234
D7-D22,D24,D26-D33 - 1N4002
D23 - 1N5817
D25 - 1N4001
R1 - 6.8K OHM Resistor
R2 - 3.3K OHM Resistor
R3 - 33.2K OHM Resistor
R4,R9,R11,R12,R47-R54,R109,R110 - 1K OHM Resistor
R5,R8,R82,R83,R106,R107,R124-R129 - 4.7K OHM Resistor
R6,R7,R111,R112,R113 - 470 OHM Resistor
R10 - 10K OHM Resistor
R13-R18,R66-R81 - 68 OHM Resistor (1/2 Watt)
R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29 - 560 OHM Resistor
R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30 - 2.7K OHM Resistor
R31-R38 - 27 OHM Resistor (3 Watt) ??? white ceramic cement resistor
R39-R46 - 1.2k OHM Resistor (1/2 Watt)
R55-R62 - 4 OHM Resistor (3 Watt) ??? white ceramic cement resistor 0.4 ohm on it but 4 ohm in schematic?
R64 - 10K OHM Resistor
R65 - 47 OHM Resistor
R98-R105 - 1.5K OHM Resistor
R108 - 12K OHM Resistor
RA1-RA3,RA6,RA11,RA19-RA24 - 4.7K x 8 SIP
RA7,RA10, RA16 - 560 x 8 SIP
RA8 - 2.2K x 8 SIP ????
RA26 - 2.7K X 8 SIP
RB1, RB2 - 6.8k x ??? SIP
RB5-RB6 - 1K X 4 SIP
RY-1 - RELAY DC6V (FRL-264)
Q2-Q7,Q15-Q22,Q31-Q38,Q80 - 2N4401
Q8-Q13,Q23-Q30,Q39-Q46,Q72-Q79 - TIP122
Q14 - 2N4403
Q47 - 2N3904
Q56-Q63 - 2N6427
Q64-q71 - TIP42
Q81-q88 - 2N5060

IC1 - PST518B (reset generator)
1C - NE555
1F - LSQ2
1J-4J,11E,12E,12F- 7406
2F - LS1Q7
3D - 6808 or 6802
4H - 74154
5B - EEPROM 2764 - 27128
5C - EEPROM 27128 - 27512
5D - RAM 6264
5E - LS245
5F,7B,8H,11B,11D - 6821
5H - LS273
5J,6J - 4011
6c,6D,8J - LS244
6F - 7404
7c - LS20
7D - LS00
7E,9F,10F - LS08
7F - LS10
8c,8D - LS138
8E - LS139
8F - 4020
9C- LS126
9E - LS32
11C - 7407
12A,12B - 7402
X1 - 8MHZ Crystal Oscillator

no idea about these below---

ALL RA5 - 4.7Kx3
RA5-7 - 4.7K
RA27-8 - 4.7K

R82 - NO VALUE ON SCHEMATIC.

#2 4 years ago

What cpu is this?

#3 4 years ago

its for the cpu board on data east games.
in other words the following games.

Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends
Back to the Future
Batman
Checkpoint
Guns N' Roses
Hook
Jurassic Park
Last Action Hero
Lethal Weapon 3
Star Trek
Star Wars
Tales from the Crypt
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
The Simpsons
The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard
WWF Royal Rumble

also i know frankenstein uses the same cpu board... maybe some others also? i know its a sega, but its the same cpu board.

#4 4 years ago

In other words, Data East - cpu version 3

#5 4 years ago

Marco-Thank you for taking the time to do this. This is a big help!!!

#6 4 years ago

okay well like i said. i might have made a mistakes and i did...
R2 should be 3.3k not 33k, the manual i had in pdf i could not make out the dot.

im working on a board now i made the mistake to put in a 33k lol, so after some searching and seeing voltage problems in that section i checked another schematic and low and behold problem.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Marco-Thank you for taking the time to do this. This is a big help!!!

no stress i was abit tired of the where is waldo thing trying to find parts so it was just something that needed to be done, ill probably update it some more as i figure out more stuff.

5 months later
#8 3 years ago

Awesome post! just what I needed! Thankyou

#9 3 years ago

Can anyone help me identify the bead capacitors at C88, C86, C85, C84, C83, C82, C101, C100, C99, C98, C95, C96? There's a few more I need but I can't seem to find them. In the schematic it says C88 is .21 but I can't find any cap with that tag.

IMG_5404 (resized).JPG

#11 3 years ago

Thanks that helps. Are all those little bead capacitors the same? They have different numbers on them, they're hard to read and I don't find anything when I search by their number.

4 months later
#12 3 years ago

Looking for the value of those tiny capacitors example c94?

#13 3 years ago

I didn't find C94, but if it serves the same function as C92 (located at I3), which is a "bypass" capacitor that filters high frequency noise from the 5V power to each IC, then it is a .1uf ceramic cap. It should be marked "104".

A .01uf cap is marked "103".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#14 3 years ago

Yup that's the cap. So just a .1uf ceramic cap? Is a disk ok? These are marked 104 50v

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Yup that's the cap. So just a .1uf ceramic cap? Is a disk ok? These are marked 104 50v

Ceramic disk, ceramic axial, makes no difference as long as it's .1uf.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from marcocapetown:

R5,R8,R82 ,R83,R106,R107,R124-R129 - 4.7K OHM Resistor

Quoted from marcocapetown:

R82 - NO VALUE ON SCHEMATIC.

on 520-5003-03 board, R82 is 470 Ω

-----------------------------------------------------

Quoted from marcocapetown:

C88 - .21 ? no idea .21uf perhaps? Ceramic Capacitor (Axial)

Checked with magnifier and it reveals a '103' = 0.01 μF

#17 3 years ago

thanks chris hoping that this mom and pop shop near me has them.

#18 3 years ago

So the mom and pop shop doesn't have ceramic but they have tantalum. Will that work? It's .1uf 50v

#19 3 years ago

It would, but fire off an order to GreatPlainsElectronics.com for a few and for other parts you'll need, like sockets, common caps, and common resistors.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So the mom and pop shop doesn't have ceramic but they have tantalum. Will that work? It's .1uf 50v

Tantalums are polarised. They are also unreliable - I wouldn't use them.

#21 3 years ago

Tantalum caps are awesome caps - VERY reliable and long life when sized properly and used in the correct application. Far more expensive of a cap and extreme overkill for what was originally there.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Far more expensive of a cap and extreme overkill for what was originally there.

Yep...Chrome went crazy before I could edit the post to remind the OP they were polarized. I think I'd just leave it off rather than put a tantalum there.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Tantalum caps are awesome caps - VERY reliable and long life when sized properly and used in the correct application. Far more expensive of a cap and extreme overkill for what was originally there.

Different people have different experiences. You must have had a good run with them.

My experience has taught me to suspect a tantalum cap every time when you have a fault in a circuit.

I wouldn't use them intentionally.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Homepin:

My experience has taught me to suspect a tantalum cap every time when you have a fault in a circuit.

Sometimes, they "self identify" by bursting into flames in their old age.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#25 3 years ago

Sounds like I need to put an order together to get the ceramic. Thank you for the info guys

#26 3 years ago

tantalums are fine if the circuit is designed right. otherwise you are asking for a violent explosion. (ie bally's cheap squeak)

for a DE MPU. tantalum bypass cap on the 5v rail would be fine. I would still stick to a 25v tantalum instead of 16v tho... just cuz i am scared of having another one blow in my face hah

3 weeks later
#27 3 years ago

So not to start a new thread but the cap at c157, does it control the 5v going to the roms? The board I'm trying to work on has 5v at test points but not getting it at the rom. Have 1.7v

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So not to start a new thread but the cap at c157, does it control the 5v going to the roms? The board I'm trying to work on has 5v at test points but not getting it at the rom. Have 1.7v

Caps don't "control" anything. That cap is likely just a filter that takes out, or smooths spikes. It can't prevent voltage from reaching a point unless it is shorted and then it would possibly take out a fuse or even burn up a PCB track. That is all very unlikely however.

What voltage do you get if you remove the ROMs and power up to measure at that point again? Might have a dud ROM?

#29 3 years ago

Check continuity between the red marked dots ( = 5 volt ). Maybe a broken coil L2.

DE cpu3 5V.jpg

#30 3 years ago

Awesome thank you guys.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from Homepin:

What voltage do you get if you remove the ROMs and power up to measure at that point again? Might have a dud ROM?

I am getting 1.7 at the socket

#32 3 years ago

Both pin 1 and 27 do not have continuity. Going to go further and look at traces and replace socket

1 month later
#33 2 years ago

Marco et anyone else,

Can you tell me what the capacitor value is for C106? It's not in your list nor the Data East Star Wars schematics. I can't read what's on there. The capacitor was broken in half somehow. It's beside one of the 4400 chips.

#34 2 years ago

C106 = 0.1 μF

#35 2 years ago

Thank you!

3 weeks later
#36 2 years ago

My coil at L2 (radial PCB inductor?) is super corroded and needs replacing. Any idea what the exact part is?

1 week later
#37 2 years ago

Thanks for this, it's helping me greatly in a repair I'm doing.

Couple of things I've noticed:
D25 is a 1N4148 on the schematic
C89 on my board was a 25V 47uf, not 16V
C87 is a 1uf 35V tantalum capacitor, not 1M
L2 is a Radial Fixed Power Inductor 48uH 3A

7 months later
#38 2 years ago

Thank you for your work.
but what Board revision was it? i have here 2 520-5003-03 and there are a lot of differences
i am just completing an excel-sheet with the help of the 2 boards and the schematics ( which are full of "faults" ) .

1N4002 for ecxample are nowhere to find on the boards ( but 1n4001 and 1n4004 ) R108 is in fact a 10K and not a 12K ( as stated in the schematics)

So, maybe that was changed in this revision?

2 years later
#39 65 days ago

Fantastic thread. Data East should have listed these parts separately from the schematic.

I am having trouble finding the value of C93. However it is connected to the other bypass caps (104). So does that mean it must also be a bypass cap?

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