What cpu is this?

In other words, Data East - cpu version 3

Marco-Thank you for taking the time to do this. This is a big help!!!

Awesome post! just what I needed! Thankyou

Can anyone help me identify the bead capacitors at C88, C86, C85, C84, C83, C82, C101, C100, C99, C98, C95, C96? There's a few more I need but I can't seem to find them. In the schematic it says C88 is .21 but I can't find any cap with that tag.

IMG_5404 (resized).JPG

Click on the picture here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Data_East_CPU_Board_Alkaline_Damage_Area

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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Thanks that helps. Are all those little bead capacitors the same? They have different numbers on them, they're hard to read and I don't find anything when I search by their number.

Looking for the value of those tiny capacitors example c94?

I didn't find C94, but if it serves the same function as C92 (located at I3), which is a "bypass" capacitor that filters high frequency noise from the 5V power to each IC, then it is a .1uf ceramic cap. It should be marked "104".

A .01uf cap is marked "103".
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Yup that's the cap. So just a .1uf ceramic cap? Is a disk ok? These are marked 104 50v

Ceramic disk, ceramic axial, makes no difference as long as it's .1uf.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

on 520-5003-03 board, R82 is 470 Ω

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Checked with magnifier and it reveals a '103' = 0.01 μF

thanks chris hoping that this mom and pop shop near me has them.

So the mom and pop shop doesn't have ceramic but they have tantalum. Will that work? It's .1uf 50v

It would, but fire off an order to GreatPlainsElectronics.com for a few and for other parts you'll need, like sockets, common caps, and common resistors.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Tantalums are polarised. They are also unreliable - I wouldn't use them.

Tantalum caps are awesome caps - VERY reliable and long life when sized properly and used in the correct application. Far more expensive of a cap and extreme overkill for what was originally there.

Yep...Chrome went crazy before I could edit the post to remind the OP they were polarized. I think I'd just leave it off rather than put a tantalum there.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Different people have different experiences. You must have had a good run with them.

My experience has taught me to suspect a tantalum cap every time when you have a fault in a circuit.

I wouldn't use them intentionally.

Sometimes, they "self identify" by bursting into flames in their old age.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Sounds like I need to put an order together to get the ceramic. Thank you for the info guys

tantalums are fine if the circuit is designed right. otherwise you are asking for a violent explosion. (ie bally's cheap squeak)

for a DE MPU. tantalum bypass cap on the 5v rail would be fine. I would still stick to a 25v tantalum instead of 16v tho... just cuz i am scared of having another one blow in my face hah

So not to start a new thread but the cap at c157, does it control the 5v going to the roms? The board I'm trying to work on has 5v at test points but not getting it at the rom. Have 1.7v

Caps don't "control" anything. That cap is likely just a filter that takes out, or smooths spikes. It can't prevent voltage from reaching a point unless it is shorted and then it would possibly take out a fuse or even burn up a PCB track. That is all very unlikely however.

What voltage do you get if you remove the ROMs and power up to measure at that point again? Might have a dud ROM?

Check continuity between the red marked dots ( = 5 volt ). Maybe a broken coil L2.

DE cpu3 5V.jpg

Awesome thank you guys.

I am getting 1.7 at the socket

Both pin 1 and 27 do not have continuity. Going to go further and look at traces and replace socket

Marco et anyone else,

Can you tell me what the capacitor value is for C106? It's not in your list nor the Data East Star Wars schematics. I can't read what's on there. The capacitor was broken in half somehow. It's beside one of the 4400 chips.

C106 = 0.1 μF

Thank you!

My coil at L2 (radial PCB inductor?) is super corroded and needs replacing. Any idea what the exact part is?

Thanks for this, it's helping me greatly in a repair I'm doing.

Couple of things I've noticed:
D25 is a 1N4148 on the schematic
C89 on my board was a 25V 47uf, not 16V
C87 is a 1uf 35V tantalum capacitor, not 1M
L2 is a Radial Fixed Power Inductor 48uH 3A

Thank you for your work.
but what Board revision was it? i have here 2 520-5003-03 and there are a lot of differences
i am just completing an excel-sheet with the help of the 2 boards and the schematics ( which are full of "faults" ) .

1N4002 for ecxample are nowhere to find on the boards ( but 1n4001 and 1n4004 ) R108 is in fact a 10K and not a 12K ( as stated in the schematics)

So, maybe that was changed in this revision?

Fantastic thread. Data East should have listed these parts separately from the schematic.

I am having trouble finding the value of C93. However it is connected to the other bypass caps (104). So does that mean it must also be a bypass cap?