I would suspect you had a coil locked on in one of the score reels. You probably smoked the coil that's why your popping fuses. You'l need to inspect the score reels to see which one has the bad coil. It should be fairly obvious. It will be dark and stinky.

Once you replace the coil you'll need to figure out why it was locking on. Could be a stuck play field switch, misadjusted or missing score reel EOS switch or other...

Can you point/tell us which coil was making the noise and the wire colours of the fuse that blows. Be careful, one fuse is connected to mains power. The mains fuse, normally the right hand one has blue wire and orange wires connected to it.
Do you have a schematic for your machine? If not when you order parts add it to the list.

and welcome to the wonderful world of EM's. you will find lots of help here.

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Ooh, the cabinet knocker is upper-right as well, likely culprit.

Hi-Deal is an awesome game, congrats and good luck on the repair.

BTW - you can measure resistance across the coils with a multimeter, the one that fried should be a dead short (no resistance).

And read this fine piece from Pinball Master Clay Harrell
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/

that's the replay knocker.

If it was left locked on for a long time, it's more than likely fried. Once it is fried, it's an open or a dead short. So when you put a new fuse in and try to start the game up, the game tries to lock it on again for some reason, and since it's a dead short, it blows the fuse.

You can try and start the game up by replacing the fuse and clipping a lead to the knocker. It will no longer lock on and blow the fuse. You do need to figure out what is causing it to lock on. I don't have a schematic so I'm flying blind here, but on some games the switch to activate the knocker is on the credit unit. Other games have it on a relay.

Fuses are rated by amperage, not voltage. It's the rating of the amount of amps the fuse can take before it will blow.

the game should still light up, because the GI lights are independent of coil voltage. When you turn it on, press the left flipper button and you should get GI lights.

Unsolder one of the wires from the coil. Or just clip it off right at the solder tab.

Don't clip wires, desolder them. You probably have a switch on the playfield that's probably closed causing the associated 10, 100 or 1000 point relay to lock on. Find the switch and open the gap. Then replace the coil if it's shorted. When you turned the game on, did you hear a ding from the chime right away? If so it's a closed switch somewhere. The fuse you are describing is the fuse for the coils.

The fuses left to right are 15A for 6V insert lighting, 15A for 6V GI lighting, 10A for 50V coils and 8A for 120V mains. The voltage ratings for the left two fuses can be 32V or 250V. The right two fuses are to be 250V rated.

Since he said the score reels were acting normally during game play, it doesn't seem likely that a stuck scoring switch is his issue here. The game was scoring properly but the buzzing was constant throught the game. And he said it appeared to be coming from the upper right, which is the knocker.

I'd look at the schematic. Find the knocker coil in the chart and it will tell you where in the schematic it is located. I think on these Bally's there is the credit unit end-of stroke switch that energizes the knocker. The schematic will tell you the switch to look at.

If it is the end-of-stroke switch for the credit unit I think it's the one I circled in red. It should be open, but if it got bent when putting the back cover on, it could cause the knocker to lock on.

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The fuse is a 10a 250v fuse. It is for the coils-see the 50v on the label? That is your clue. The game runs the coils on 50v and the lamps on 6v.

The knocker looks like total toast. Has to be your issue. Desolder a lead, put the new fuse in, game should run fine. I can't see the switches really well but I believe the knocker switch is on the bottom of the credit unit there by itself. It looks to be open but could be solder tabs or something else touching. In any case, you need to figure that one out.

That knocker coil on the top left of the box looks fried.

You'll notice all the other coils still have their wrapper and that one appears burnt off.

That's what I would disconnect.

If the fuse doesn't blow you've found the second part of your problem.

The first part is finding what is energizing the coil continuously.

You need a schematic for that.

Just broken in.

http://www.pbresource.com/index.html

The knocker is a pretty simple circuit. As I said in a previous post, I'm pretty sure it's the one on the bottom of the credit unit in the backbox. When the step up coil is activated to add a game to the credit wheel, the normally open switch is closed and that activates the knocker coil.

If you don't have much experience reading schematics, find the index for for the coils. It will show you the location on the schematic of that particular coil. Then, trace back from the coil on the schematic and you will see the switch or switches involved in the circuit that all have to be closed in order for the knocker coil to activate. Find whatever is closed when it shouldn't be and that should be the cure.

I looked at the schematic for a Bally Hang Glider, which is from the same period as your game. According to that schematic, the only switch in the path for the knocker coil is the credit unit EOS (end of stroke) switch. So do this. By hand activate the coil on the credit unit that adds a game to the credit wheel. You'll see when you do this the lever attached to the plunger that goes into that coil will close a switch when the plunger is fully into the coil. That's the switch you're looking for. Make sure it is open. Also make sure that the solder tabs for that switch aren't bent so they're touching together, or the switch isn't somehow else being shorted across.

Also, the coil for the knocker for Hang Glider is AK-27-1300. That means the frame size of the coil is AK, the 27 is the gauge of the wire, and the 1300 is the number of turns of wire. That coil would normally test out somewhere in the range of 13 ohms. Not a coil designed for very high power like a power side of a flipper coil, but also not a coil designed for long term "on" duty which is why after the game was played for awhile with it locked on, it burned up.

I'm sure that would be the same coil for the knocker for your game. But obviously before you install the new coil, you want to find the cause of it locking on, or you'll burn the new one up too.

as EMsInKC points out.

To help you out with schematics, read the above post looking at this bit of schematic, this is for a wizard, even the wire colours should be the same.

Bally_1975_Knocer_COLOUR.png

LOL, he won't be able to read that very well, the switches that are in the circuit are not named.

Something looks wrong there. Why would the credit EOS be on the 1000 point chime circuit?

Its not 1000 point Re it is the knocker, bad cut and paste. the Blue/orange wire is knocker. the 1000 point Re is to the left of the text.

Well, it's above already. All there is to the circuit is the credit unit EOS switch. This should be pretty easy to figure out.

That's cool, so you have two SWs to check. Sounds like for each ball the knocker fires.

Hi guys. This post from 7 years ago was actually very helpful. Same problem with the 10 score real firing. Narrowed it down to right slingshot, upper leaf switch.

Two questions please, is this the right leaf switch? SW-1A-120. I have the manual and schematic both, but it doesn’t identify which switch is used in the game.

Also will any 30 amp, 200 V bridge rectifier work? That’s what was originally installed.

Here is what I am thinking will work - would love some verification. Thanks. Larry

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