This is a COMMON problem with the LE. Not your fault at all. Both of my flipper transistors failed within 8 months in my NIB game. Replace it with the beefier transistor (IRL450N--about $2 each from various sources), and it will be no problem. In fact, I highly recommend ordering a few extras and replacing both transistors (q15 and q16?) at the same time. Save you the hassle later.

Big Daddy has 5 for $9: http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/electronics/e_transistors.htm Pinbits also has them, etc.

Mine fried simply from holding the flipper up for a minute or so. Once during multiball, once when explaining rules to a friend during a game. Stern used sh!tty transistors, is all.

The LOTR flipper coil issue is something else entirely. The flippers would get weaker after long playing periods because the coils would heat up and not cool fast enought. This is NOT an issue with the LEs, and you shouldn't replace the LE flipper coils.

Thanks for the info Steven. I may purchase a few as you recommend just in case...

Yeah, I bought extras and they've already been used by a friend! Note that the diode is usually still good--all you need to do is replace the transistor itself and the fuse that blew.

Another tip: If you're ordering parts, you may want to order a couple of spare VUK switches (for Gimli and the SHire). These tend to flake out after a while; best to have replacements on hand!

Yep, I purchased some soon after I got my LOTR LE. The Shire VUK is the only one I have had problems with though and that has been fine for over a year now.

Yup, adjust it per the tech bulletin and it should be fine. Might be hitting the side too early, so the coil is buzzing while trying to pull it more.

It only blows because Snailman has marathon multi-hour games like no other human being on earth ;-p

Hello! I "believe" I have this exact problem...my left flipper is out and keeps blowing a fuse on power up. I'm still rather new to the hobby, so pardon my ignorance...where is this transitor mentioned above? How do I remove it? Is the transistor part only available online? I found the fuses at Home Depot (they are all fried now from me replacing them). I have very few games on this unit...and bought it NIB. I guess this is my first "real" tech problem (just as I was getting into the game!) Thanks for any advice you can offer.

The manual also has the info above--circuit and board diagrams, transistor locations, etc. Seriously, how many fuses did you blow? Because after the second one, you should realize that there's a problem that needs fixing! A fuse blows when there's an overload of current. Replacing a fried fuse does not repair the underlying problem.

Just fyi to all this problem is alive and well on TAV. Q15 gone after cradling a ball. Do I bother going through warranty? Have a good desoldering gun - i'm thinking no. Why doesn't stern fix this?

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tf-le-fusetransistor-issue#post-133898

At some point, they upgraded the 22NE10L transistors to 40NE10L, but it didn't fix the problem. I had one of the 40NE10L ones fail in my Tron, and I would guess your TAV has the newer ones as well. Has anyone had an IRL540 fail after replacing it?

bump. This failure just happened to my left flipper. To repeat herg's question, "Has anyone had an IRL450N fail after replacing it"? I need to order the parts and want to confirm that this is the way to go. Many thanks in advance for any responses.

I think with all the games he has owned/owns, Markmon would be able to answer this question assuming he uses the IRL540 as a replacement. Mine in LOTR LE has held up fine for about a year.

By the way, Pinbits sells them for $2.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=266

There are some crappy electrical components out there. Not the pinball manufacturers fault. We are seeing higher than normal failure rates than we used to for new products.

LTG : )

Hi,

I had some problem with my right flipper. Fuse was blown, so I replaced it to make sure it isnt just a fuse problem... blew again.

Tested Q15 and Q16, Q15 beeped the continuity test therefore failed.

I ordered these : IRL540NPBF-ND (couldn't find IRL540N only on digikey) I was wondering if they are OK. They seems to be spec-wise...

Anyhow, I replaced both Q15 and Q16 with the newer transistor. The flipper fuse blew on startup and the new Q15 blew as well.

What do you guys think, bad coil?

I had a tech replace the Q15 transistor on my board, I had asked him to replace Q16, but didnt have two transistors and then last night Q16 blows as Im holding the ball .

I want to try to replace it myself. I need to get thinner soldier, he had 22 gauge. He also sprayed the board and brushed it down with a tooth brush after the soldier job. Was this an anti static spray? Any recommendations on a specific spray to get?

He may have been removing excess solder flux residue from the board repair using Flux-off spray.

Thanks guys, q15 seems to be my problem too

so which one do I need, cant find the irl450n anywhere, but some of you are saying the irl540 will work too? Which is it????

540

For the record, BDK, *exact* same issue.

Are the ones from digikey ok? I was thinking of making an order from digikey anyway and I would have to get the same ones.

Yes, the IRL540NPBF-ND is the same part, just Digikey's part number.

I've upgraded to IRL540's and still blowing them. Getting sick of replacing these every week (commercial setting). I've been thinking about socketing the transistor, that's how often I'm having to change them....

I put in BUK9529 on my Metallica and its working fine now.

The diodes are on the circuit board for LOTR LE

I think the diodes are on the power driver board for Metallica.

For the purposes of choosing a flipper transistor, all Whitestar and SAM are essentially the same, but the BUK9529 has been obsoleted. It may still be available if you look around, but if you're wanting to replace with a part with higher specs, I would be tempted to try a IRLB4030PBF.

I was able to easily buy it and it actually works. I can confirm P40N10L does not work. Caused a flipper stuttering issue with the flippers. I called stern on this and they said BUK9529 was fine and they used it on boards. BUK9529 were the originals that were installed by Stern on my MET power driver board.