Family Guy
Stern, 2007How do I re-wire this FGY Service Outlet so it turns on and off with the game?
Adding a 120V topper, and would like to run it down to the Service Outlet and wire it per above...or is there an easier way to wire it so it turns on and off with the game by tapping in elsewhere?
In the 2nd picture showing the underside, the Service Outlet is in the upper right of the pic; the on/off switch is on the bottom (with the two blue insulators).
Thank you.
You have to move the Black wire that runs between the filter and the service outlet and attach to line that comes out of the switch. You need to test with your AC voltmeter to find which lead turns on and off with the switch and connect into that wire that turns off with the switch.
You have to move the Black wire that runs between the filter and the service outlet and attach to line that comes out of the switch. You need to test with your AC voltmeter to find which lead turns on and off with the switch and connect into that wire that turns off with the switch.
Awesome!
OK so I found the wire that turns off the 120 Volts with the switch underneath the cabinet. It's shown as #2 in the attached pic.
So if I hear you right, all I have to do then is desolder the wire I've labeled as #1 in the pic, and then attach it to wire #2 (presumably by cutting wire #2 in half--and then connecting all three pieces together with a twist connector)?
Just curious if you know off hand where wire #2 ultimately runs to? (I'd have to cut a bunch of shrink wrap/wire ties to follow it back.)
Thanks Nitrojcrawf!
You are correct on you modifications. With out looking at the print or digging into one of mine I don't know. Look at the print and just connect the dots.
A big shout out to Pinside Tech responder John (Nitrojcrawf) for all his help on this one.
John studied the print and wisely recommended the best solution was to tap into the existing 115VAC 9-pin Molex that was hanging on the coin door (for a Dollar Bill Validator).
Key benefit: the 115 Volt mod will turn on & off with the game without having to tap into the Service Outlet!
A couple 0.062" crimp contact sockets placed in a 9-pin no-ear Molex connector, mated with AC-rated wire nuts to the wall plug, and I'll be good to go.
Many thanks John!
Can you show me a pic of what you did? I need to do the same for my POTC. I have so much mods attached to the 12V that now I don't think I can connect my 2 Noflix Pinball Cards on there. They each draw 400mA (about 1/2amp) so I just ordered a 120V-12V power supply. I was going to used the service outlet also but I was also thinking if attaching another switch to it and drill a new hole on the bottom of the pin for the switch. But now i wonder if I can just tap into the 115V for the validator also. I just hope it can handle a but over 1 amp.
Quoted from daniel0265:Can you show me a pic of what you did? I need to do the same for my POTC. I have so much mods attached to the 12V that now I don't think I can connect my 2 Noflix Pinball Cards on there. They each draw 400mA (about 1/2amp) so I just ordered a 120V-12V power supply. I was going to used the service outlet also but I was also thinking if attaching another switch to it and drill a new hole on the bottom of the pin for the switch. But now i wonder if I can just tap into the 115V for the validator also. I just hope it can handle a but over 1 amp.
Here's all I ended up doing to wire up this mod:
1. On the Dollar Bill Validator, located the hot lead.
2. Crimped two .062" contact sockets onto two strands of 18 gauge wire (I still need to go back and place both terminals in a Molex connector as the pic shows: I didn't have one at the time--so I shrink-wrapped as a temporary measure).
3. Cut off the end of a standard two-prong 120 V extension cord (my mod had no neutral).
4. Joined the four wires with two wire nuts and sealed with electrical tape--note: on your cord you're hooking up, generally the flat or bigger plug is the Neutral (white). The cord will have a smooth and a ribbed side. The ribbed side is always neutral and smooth side is hot, live or black. Since the 120 V mod I was hooking up was a light and only had a two terminal plug, there was no ground needed.
Good luck in your mod.
Thanks so much... if you don't mind me picking your mind a bit. I always thought 120AC it really didn't matter what wire you plug into neutral and hot. It can go either way. Unfortunately my mod will be using a hot/neutral/ground. It's a 120VAC to 12VDC power converter. I have used too much 12VDC on my spare line. So based off what you pointed out to me. Just put fat plug (white) neutral to ground in molex and smaller plug (black) hot to 120VAC molex and pole ground (green) to any ground on the cab? your set up much better then what I was about to do... I was going to cut open the power wire and hard wire it to a molex plug.
Quoted from daniel0265:Thanks so much... if you don't mind me picking your mind a bit. I always thought 120AC it really didn't matter what wire you plug into neutral and hot.
It does matter. It prevents shocks even when off.Unfortunately my mod will be using a hot/neutral/ground. It's a 120VAC to 12VDC power converter. I have used too much 12VDC on my spare line. So based off what you pointed out to me. Just put fat plug (white) neutral to ground in molex and smaller plug (black) hot to 120VAC molex
The plug for the validator is hot and neutral. Yes, fat side of polarized plug is always neutral.and pole ground (green) to any ground on the cab? your set up much better then what I was about to do... I was going to cut open the power wire and hard wire it to a molex plug.
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