Has anyone put an LED OCD in their Maverick?
I put on in my JP and it is awesome, so I'm considering getting one for my Maverick too. According to the LED OCD site, it has not been tested to work in a Maverick, but it should.
(Topic ID: 79446)
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Maverick
Data East, 1994
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2 weeks later
Does anyone know the limit on folding in this game? I once got to a point where the option to fold was no longer available. Also am wondering if the limit is per ball or per game? And how many times you can fold before you reach the limit.
I like using the fold option so I don't have to shoot either of the side bank targets.
Stow, OH
Quoted from DiegoWally:Same with my Maverick, it's got a tight field against the rails. I like the look of those Mustang blades on a Mav, but no can do here., they'd get ripped. Slapping em up would just waste time and money. Besides modifying the edges of the playfield and maybe have to plane the wood sides, too...a project for another day maybe. Are most Maverick's that snug?
I have side art on all 14 of my games. Two have mirror blades and 12 have vinyl side art. Maverick & White Water are the tightest. The mirror blade people suggested removing the blades (3 screws each side) any time extensive work is planned with lots of ups and downs of the playfield. For the vinyl art it is suggested to use poster board between the art and the playfield sides when raising or lowering the playfield.
Quoted from OTRChief:I have side art on all 14 of my games. Two have mirror blades and 12 have vinyl side art. Maverick & White Water are the tightest. The mirror blade people suggested removing the blades (3 screws each side) any time extensive work is planned with lots of ups and downs of the playfield. For the vinyl art it is suggested to use poster board between the art and the playfield sides when raising or lowering the playfield.
My Mav is so tight on the sides it scrapes the paint. Vinyl side art ripped so I removed that. I can't see putting a poster board, blade, or anything of thickness in it without major modification.
Quoted from mbott1701:Has anyone put an LED OCD in their Maverick?
I put on in my JP and it is awesome, so I'm considering getting one for my Maverick too. According to the LED OCD site, it has not been tested to work in a Maverick, but it should.
Just an update on this...I went ahead and installed the board and it looks great and works just fine with Maverick.
Quoted from wayout440:My Mav is so tight on the sides it scrapes the paint. Vinyl side art ripped so I removed that. I can't see putting a poster board, blade, or anything of thickness in it without major modification.
Yours must be tighter than mine. My sides were all scrapped up but some of that was due to the PF not being exactly straight when raising and lowering it. The poster board I used was 2 sheets for $1.50 and I had to slide it back and forth to work it into position.
1 week later
Ottawa, ON
Looks like it should restore well! At least your unobtainium boat plastic appears to be in once piece! Is it missing the apron, trough and flipper mechs, and the right lane guides, or did you start taking it apart already?
I have Dirty Harry and Secret Service in addition to Maverick. . Like the smooth play on the DH but by far the game play and deep rule set on Maverick is my favorite.
Looking for another game I might like as much.
Suggestions on another game around $3k or less that I might love as much as Maverick?
Quoted from wayout440:Welcome! I am wondering what's going on up here on your pic?
The previous owner decided to Velcro a paper picture from world series of poker there. he also glued a bunch of other things all over.
Quoted from mavantix:Looks like it should restore well! At least your unobtainium boat plastic appears to be in once piece! Is it missing the apron, trough and flipper mechs, and the right lane guides, or did you start taking it apart already?
I have the apron and flippers they just aren't installed. I have to redo the entire trough. have to replace a drop target bank. there is nothing there. Have to install a bunch of coils and figure out how to install this.
I might get annoying to you guys for pictures and such so my apologies in advance.
Quoted from Murphelman:The previous owner decided to Velcro a paper picture from world series of poker there. he also glued a bunch of other things all over.
I have the apron and flippers they just aren't installed. I have to redo the entire trough. have to replace a drop target bank. there is nothing there. Have to install a bunch of coils and figure out how to install this.
I might get annoying to you guys for pictures and such so my apologies in advance.
Diagram for that. Can get you pics later if need be.
Quoted from wayout440:Diagram for that. Can get you pics later if need be.
Thanks! pictures would be great. I can see anywhere inside the cabinet to connect the wires to. there are a few things I have questions about but I will tackle them on at a time. thanks again.
Quoted from Murphelman:Thanks! pictures would be great. I can see anywhere inside the cabinet to connect the wires to. there are a few things I have questions about but I will tackle them on at a time. thanks again.
These will travel in a harness all the way back to the main board.
Quoted from Murphelman:I might get annoying to you guys for pictures and such so my apologies in advance.
Please post here as much as you can about your project.
It'll be nothing short of interesting and quite the opposite of annoying. There are some members here that really know their shit. Don't expect much from me, I'm amateur hour, but some here hold a friggin PhD in Maverick. Always fun learning here, and I think your project will have plenty of that for everyone. Welcome to the Club and Post Away!
Quoted from wayout440:These will travel in a harness all the way back to the main board.
Thanks that helps. I thinkni may need the whole wiring harness for that because I see nothing in the cabinet that will connect to it.
Quoted from DiegoWally:Please post here as much as you can about your project.
It'll be nothing short of interesting and quite the opposite of annoying. There are some members here that really know their shit. Don't expect much from me, I'm amateur hour, but some here hold a friggin PhD in Maverick. Always fun learning here, and I think your project will have plenty of that for everyone. Welcome to the Club and Post Away!
I'm also a rookie at this stuff so appreciate the opportunity to lean on a lot of you guys as I attempt to bring it back to life. more to come
Quoted from Murphelman:Thanks that helps. I think i may need the whole wiring harness for that because I see nothing in the cabinet that will connect to it.
is there a jack even plugged in at CN14 on the mainboard? if there is, then you can probably trace it back through the harness. If nothing is there, you don't need the whole harness. Make a 4 wire harness for CN14 and run it from the board to the coin door in parallel with the existing harness.
Quoted from wayout440:is there a jack even plugged in at CN14 on the mainboard? if there is, then you can probably trace it back through the harness. If nothing is there, you don't need the whole harness. Make a 4 wire harness for CN14 and run it from the board to the coin door in parallel with the existing harness.
looks like they were switched with CN13.
15072174344261894020325 (resized).jpg
Can't find where they all went into the cabinet but the black/red, and white wires are connected to this but cant find green or blue....
Quoted from Murphelman:looks like they were switched with CN13.
Can't find where they all went into the cabinet but the black/red, and white wires are connected to this but cant find green or blue....
That is correct, they should be reversed. The connector with the 4 black wires are the coil grounds. Put that one on CN13. For the other, you have two options. You can follow it into the harness and cut all the tie wraps as you go to find the wiring, which is really the correct way and a pain in the butt. Or you can just cut back the wires, make a new connector with a sufficient length of new wires and run that all the way to the coin door.
Your bottom photo left switch with the black/yellow and white/red stripes is the solenoid interlock switch to cut solenoid power when the coin door is open, switch on the right with the black/red and white wires is the memory lock switch.
Quoted from wayout440:That is correct, they should be reversed. The connector with the 4 black wires are the coil grounds. Put that one on CN13. For the other, you have two options. You can follow it into the harness and cut all the tie wraps as you go to find the wiring, which is really the correct way and a pain in the butt. Or you can just cut back the wires, make a new connector with a sufficient length of new wires and run that all the way to the coin door.
Your bottom photo left switch with the black/yellow and white/red stripes is the solenoid interlock switch to cut solenoid power when the coin door is open, switch on the right with the black/red and white wires is the memory lock switch.
Awesome thanks. very helpful. I'll have to track them down that way then which sucks. I do have a Rocky and Bullwinkle and a Goldeneye that helps with the referencing.
just trying to figure out what I need for parts. once o get those the real works starts! just in the investigative phase now.
Pretty decent shape for my first try at this. Only have to put half of it back together. Paid under $1,000 for it but im sure parts and labour will add up.
of that ^Looking for some help. Moved the game a few months ago, and now the two optos under the boat will not work. The right side of the optos are red, the left side has no light. Is that how these optos should look?
Kind of odd that both go out at the same time.
Quoted from Methos:Looking for some help. Moved the game a few months ago, and now the two optos under the boat will not work. The right side of the optos are red, the left side has no light. Is that how these optos should look?
Kind of odd that both go out at the same time.
Yes, that is how they should look. The optos use visible red light on the transmitter side, the receiver side does not illuminate. If the red transmitter light pair under the opto is "going out" then you have a break in a wire feeding both of the transmitters. If I am missing some details please fill me in, that's how I am reading your post.
Quoted from wayout440:Yes, that is how they should look. The optos use visible red light on the transmitter side, the receiver side does not illuminate. If the red transmitter light pair under the opto is "going out" then you have a break in a wire feeding both of the transmitters. If I am missing some details please fill me in, that's how I am reading your post.
So I should see a red light on one side and nothing on the other end. I"ll try and see if it could be an alignment issue.
Take the boat plastic off, and go into diagnostics in the menu and get to the switch test. Then use you finger to block the light between the board with the red light and the one receiving it (not lit). It should register the switch and display it on the DMD.
After replacing all four opto boards on mine last night I had an issue where they would both trigger as switch hits when obstructing just one, and as a result the boat wouldn't hold the ball locks. I ended up reinstalling one of the old opto receivers, and the problem went away, so not even sure what the deal was but it's working now for me so I'm leaving it alone.
So I took a step forward, then two backyard. I tested the receiver switches and they work. I realign it, and it works, but not well. So I try adjusting them again, then they both stopped working. The right transmitter has a very low light and none of them work. They were working, then they all stopped except one receiver.
So I have to start over and I ordered two opto kits from the ebay guy. Will have to install them all and see what happens.
1 week later
Quoted from Methos:So I took a step forward, then two backyard. I tested the receiver switches and they work. I realign it, and it works, but not well. So I try adjusting them again, then they both stopped working. The right transmitter has a very low light and none of them work. They were working, then they all stopped except one receiver.
So I have to start over and I ordered two opto kits from the ebay guy. Will have to install them all and see what happens.
Those opto's are a real bear, Methos. I've had issues with mine as well. I've found all the parts at Mouser and Digikey for very cheap. As I was rebuilding mine I noticed that the PCBs were damaged from a previous repair, so I had to make wire jumpers. I was planning on having new PCBs made up and make completely new optos ... just haven't gotten there yet. I can tell you in my experience that those things failing or intermittently failing wreak havoc with the game. Mine are working well now and it's worth the time and effort! Good work and good luck.
Well, Damagio....they are usually not that bad. If yours didn't have those previous repairs which contributed to your difficulties. My Maverick gets played almost daily. Rock solid with the optos....it's worth putting in proper repairs.
Quoted from wayout440:Well, Damagio....they are usually not that bad. If yours didn't have those previous repairs which contributed to your difficulties. My Maverick gets played almost daily. Rock solid with the optos....it's worth putting in proper repairs.
Couldn't agree more...it's like night and day.
Now if I can just figure out how to get that Lauren Belle wheel to spin a little faster we'll be cooking with gas.
I really enjoy this machine.
1 month later
Quoted from wayout440:Yes, it's a piece of sheet metal, bent and drilled to use the existing screw on the playfied wall. A playing card glued with epoxy over the top. Works great and looks great, IMO
It does look awesome. I got a new machine so now I can take Maverick out of service. I am going to add this to mine while I have it apart for shopping. Plus I want to maybe put an LED strip around the inside of the Lauren Belle if I can find something that works.
I like these blades too...
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/maverick-gameblades
All in all, my Maverick is working great now with the exception of the slow wheel. Really bizarre how this is an issue for some people. Mechanically, it's very smooth, but the RPM is clearly too slow and it will go into search mode. All of my opticals are rebuilt and working well, and I get 29 VAC at the motor. I think I will try the pulley fix if I can find one.
It really is a great machine. Lots of fun.
Damagio
Wondering...
1) Appears I have original ROMs in Maverick. I believe it says 2.0 when I turn it on. I believe it's up to 4.xx. Probably cost me about $50 to upgrade CPU, display and sound ROMs. I can't find any documentation on what these updates do...possibly speed up the paddle wheel???? How cool would that be? Folks who have had slow wheel issues...would love to hear from you regarding CPU ROM version.
2) Methos....how is your project coming along?
3) On the fence about an LED light kit. I actually like the incandescent "lantern" look, but I know they make warm colored LEDs that may work. Thoughts? I've seem some color LED mods, and it just looks like it may be a little too much for my taste.
Accomplished/In Process...
1) Installed an NVRAM from LockWhenLit (works perfectly) and removed the battery tray completely.
2) Did the nylon washer trick on the sound board and I'll be darned, it really helped.
3) In process of cleaning playfield and replacing all rubber.
4) In process of installing Wayout's playing card spotlight mod. I found some pretty cool cards that look sort of "antique-like"....okay editing because it’s done!
Hope you're all doing well!
Damagio
2 weeks later
1 month later
Finally came around and installed LED's on my Maverick and love it. Came out great. Started with Sunlight 2SMD's from Comet but it did quite match so went with Warm White on the GI left the Sunlight under the playfield, tossed in a 3 SMD Blue strip under the boat and it looks Great. I Love Maverick my boys and I play it all the time.
1 week later
Does anyone know what the color code might be for the brown on the cab?
.... or can anyone think of a good method to match it without much effort?
I found a matching color. Sherwin Williams SW 6069. I used their "ColorSnap" app. What a world we live in...
Another question. Half of my backbox GI is out. Looking back there, there's two GI strings. One whole string is the culprit. All the connectors are good and no fuses are out.
Is this GI string part of the gameplay or should it be illuminated at all times?
I'm curious how well that paint matched? Did you get enamel paint in that shade? What sheen? I need to do some touch up on my cab insides.
The backbox GI should be on in that picture, it flashes with a relay, but I believe the DE/Sega games only have a relay that flashes all the GI, so there's no individual on/off per string. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'd check the bulbs first (swap with working one), then check connector and the board header, and get the multimeter out and start checking for voltage. My guess would be the IDC connector is making poor connection on that string.
Quoted from mavantix:I'm curious how well that paint matched? Did you get enamel paint in that shade? What sheen? I need to do some touch up on my cab insides.
The backbox GI should be on in that picture, it flashes with a relay, but I believe the DE/Sega games only have a relay that flashes all the GI, so there's no individual on/off per string. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'd check the bulbs first (swap with working one), then check connector and the board header, and get the multimeter out and start checking for voltage. My guess would be the IDC connector is making poor connection on that string.
It's not a perfect match, but close enough for small touch up. I went with eggshell, but it looks like the next level of gloss would've been better?
They look alright. I wish maybe they were a little more theme integrated, a couple stage coaches, maybe some water behind the boat, a poker parlor/bar scene... but beggars can't be choosers, not many options for Maverick.
There is water on the bottom half of the gameblades, you have sky, rocks/grass and water.
My two things I might change are take the eagle off and make the rock terrain more closely match the backboard rock plastics on the game.
Quoted from mavantix:They look alright. I wish maybe they were a little more theme integrated, a couple stage coaches, maybe some water behind the boat, a poker parlor/bar scene... but beggars can't be choosers, not many options for Maverick.
So, I bought a HUO Maverick on a good deal. The original owner won in on The Price Is Right in the 90's. Kind of funny. Finishing up the shop-job now.
The system still has v1.00 on it. Is it worth upgrading to the latest ROMs? 4.00? Is the a change log for the differences?
Quoted from Allibaster:So, I bought a HUO Maverick on a good deal. The original owner won in on The Price Is Right in the 90's. Kind of funny. Finishing up the shop-job now.
The system still has v1.00 on it. Is it worth upgrading to the latest ROMs? 4.00? Is the a change log for the differences?
I think we need reference photos of this HUO Maverick!!
I'd upgrade the code to 4.0, but not sure a change log is around anywhere.
Quoted from mavantix:I think we need reference photos of this HUO Maverick!!
It was an only pin in a "man cave". It had opto problems and a bunch of broken drop targets. I think I could've talked him down, but I just paid his asking price of $500. When I got it home, the coin door switch was seized solid, and he was still inserting quarters to play. After I got into the system, I found it had 1123 games on it.
I vacuumed out the moths in the cabinet and did new rubbers, new balls, new drops with decals, wax, fixed the optos, and replaced some bulbs. It's super clean.
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