Quoted from Brk_oth:

We picked up our game from Haggis the other day, its now permanently located at the Australian Pinball Museum for all to enjoy.
Ours was the first game off the line after all the series tickets, so those of you with Mermaid Editions can start getting excited knowing that the series tickets are all completed.
As people have already mentioned this, I will only quickly touch on it in one sentence, no need to sound like a broken record - Haggis has put a LOT of attention to detail into the crafting of this pinball machine, nothing else compares.
Only confusing thing I can think of for when you're setting up your game (and if you don't read instructions), if you're trying to find the keyhole for the backbox its under the left side of the headbox!
The Revisited game play is great. Myself and a few of the volunteers here don't even want to play the Classic mode, the Revisited mode is just too good. Photos/videos just don't seem to do it justice.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Brk_oth:

Yes they look absolutely amazing, its a great enhancement to the overall look of the game.
The plastic protectors are an extra available from Haggis Pinball for Mermaid Edition customers, you can get them to install it for you - so no messing around with installing and need to find longer screws like with aftermarket mods!

Quoted from MT45:

Pop bumper LED issue and fix:
Just noticed I had a pop bumper with misbehaving LED lights. Rebooted the machine and still same issue. Underside LEDs all staying red in color during attract mode (and during game play) instead of matching the upper as they should.
Checked under the playfield (supply point) by pressing soldered connections while game was powered on and it had no effect
I switch back to the topside, removed the pop cap and gently pressured the solder points on top - no effect
I then switched to the underside of the LED circuit board and gentle pressure would return the LED color to the correct state - aha!
So I loosened the circuit board (2 screws) and gently angled it up high enough to both see and access the underside soldered connection.
I touched each of the 3 connectors and the 3rd one (the ground on right side in image) was the issue
I grabbed my flashlight for a closer look and it became clear that the copper jumper wire was broken. It took a few tries because those wires are very thin and it’s easy to overheat the pads on these types of boards. After a few careful attempts, I got the broken wire soldered back (see yellow arrow for view of broken wire). I tested for continuity (was good), screwed it back together and it’s back working normally again
Hope this helps someone else should it happen to your game
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Quoted from MT45:

Fantastic long term solution! I’m assuming you soldered “in place”?
I ask because it looks like the only way to remove these is to unsolder the power supply point that is under the playfield - no biggie I guess but it means re-threading those wires back through the pops
Also, what gauge wire did you use on the top of the LED circuit board?
Thx