(Topic ID: 274046)

Zero Ohm System 11 Aux board

By Seamlesswall

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by thedefog
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 3 years ago

    I have a bunch of problems with Cyclone since it was hackadoodled. Anyway, my first question is: on the Aux driver board, there are 2 Zero Ohm resistors W1 and W3. They are open unlike the other zero ohm resistors on the same board. What do they do, and if I were jump them what would happen? Reluctant as the schematic is less than clear but indicates use for different voltage coils. However, they should read zero ohms even if not in play I would assume as they are essentially jumpers.

    #2 3 years ago

    Yes, they are jumpers. They use them instead of jumpers when assembling the board because automated equipment can insert a 0 ohm resistor but not a jumper.

    #3 3 years ago

    I understand that. But these two are not reading zero. they are reading open. Why? My question is if I jump them what will happen?

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from Seamlesswall:

    I understand that. But these two are not reading zero. they are reading open. Why? My question is if I jump them what will happen?

    Internally failed open. Could be any number of things.

    It looks like it's used to absorb voltage spikes from the solenoids and redirect them back to the HV rails through the diodes.

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    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from Seamlesswall:

    I understand that. But these two are not reading zero. they are reading open. Why? My question is if I jump them what will happen?

    W1, W3 & W5 should be jumpered for +25v & +50v coil operation. They should not read open. If W1 & W3 are open, replace with a wire jumper.

    I am guessing your 0 ohm resistors may have just cracked, and your problem behavior is due to not having a spikeback dump available to it. These would not likely blow open like a fuse unless they were really cooked, in which case you'd have a lot of other board issues, blown diodes & transistors on aux board, etc. But please take this info with a grain of salt and make sure you probe and test components on those +25v & +50v lines. I don't want to be the guy that gave you the go ahead to blow up your game.

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