Does anyone happen to have a spare Zaccaria coil: 50 V.D.C. D. 45 - S. 1000

It looks like a Williams 25-1000 may work but I would prefer to get the correct Zaccaria coil.

I am missing one of these coils and the two L shaped brackets that hold it in place.

I did! A friend had a spare Williams 25-1000 coil. That was the one listed as a cross and it had similar resistance. The main bracket was there but the coil mounting brackets (L shaped) were missing. I was able to use a pair of those and a short upkick plunger out of a trashed Stargate. That part if fixed!

Still have lots of work to do on the games. Working on sound boards now and then need to do some power board and switching supply work.

Some of the trickier pieces I am looking for are for the Mr Game machines that came right after Zaccaria and used many of those parts:

- Plastic stationary upright target. (one if broken)
- Plastic cabinet shells for the flipper buttons (may be able to 3D print replacements)
- Extra Power supply board (as-is would be fine) as I have one to rebuild
- Switching Power supply that is used for the monitor power and video board (going to try recapping the PS)
- Credit/Start button

Ant other random parts. Asked about the coils first since those are Zaccaria parts.

Have you tried any of the Comet Optix LED's? I've had good results with those on some games where normal LED lamps would flicker. May be worth trying.

Actually just LED for GI is extremely helpful in many games to reduce heat and current that can burn up GI connectors. Quite a few people swap GI LEDs just for that reason. I have many machines with bulbs but went to LED behind the backglass to reduce the heat.

A good LED job can add value. Unfortunately some LED swaps are so bad they take away value. Had one with cheap LEDs in the GI with an irritating strobe effect and went back to bulbs on that.

Using quality LEDs tastefully done is an upgrade.

The Mr Game machines used quite a few Zaccaria parts. Are those covered in this thread too? Not too much information out there on them. I fixed two of those machines but still have a couple issues on one getting into the setup to adjust settings.

Instead of wood you may have good results cutting out a blank piece of PCB material. You may be able to get the blank FR4 type material which should be thinner than the plywood and very strong.

Glue I would try would the JB weld Clearweld. See if you can try on scrap material first. May help.

Trying to revive a Devil Riders. Ended up picking up a physically nice example along with a not so nice one that sat way too long in a shipping containter. Harnesses were all undone and I think I have most of those sorted out. Some reference photos on how all the connectors go and the way the cables are routed would help.

Getting the wires up into the backbox from in the cabinet is a pain. There is a block of wood in the middle of the opening so you can't reach inside. Was able to pull them all back trough. Just not sure of they go in front of that block of word or behind it.

Also noticed a couple wires hanging under the playfiled and discovered the coil that lifts the left ramp is missing. Need to find the correct coil for that.

Looks like I need a D63-S1100 coil for the ramp. Anyone have a spare or source in the USA?

If you own a Devil Riders with original coin door wiring could you take some reference photos and post them in this thread? I am reviving a Devil Riders and finally have it booting. Displays are working and attract lights going. That’s as far as I got. The coin door wiring is messed up and one of the test switches is missing (the one closest to the door) a coin switch is disconnected, and wires are hanging. Close ups of the test switches and coin switches showing the wires would really help!

This is the first one for me. Hope someone with a nice coin door can post pictures. There has got to be at least one unhacked one out there.

Thanks for the pictures! Maybe mine isn't as bad as I thought. Will take a closer look tomorrow. I thought there may have been a switch missing but it looks like you only have one on the coin door too.

Any good sources for a replacement belt for the motorcycle in the backbox of Devil Riders? Also is Devil riders meant to have one ball or two?

Thank You. I stopped by the hardware store at lunch and found an O-ring that looks like the right size for the belt. Going to give that a try.

Finally have my game running and playable. A few lamps out and also one of the coils is missing for the left ramp. Found a replacement at Marco. Also, the two small flippers didn't seem to work so some more things to track down. Should be up and running soon. At least I was able to rebuild the boards and get all of those running.

Good to know. Neither seemed to do anything when the outlane was hit. I’ll have to check those switches and also to see if there is a fuse under the playfield for those. Or maybe need to clean relay contacts. Going to try and make more progress this week.

So any tips on getting the rider assembly out to replace the belt? Just wondering how much has to be disassembled to put the new belt on. Looks like the whole assembly comes out without too much trouble but getting the rider and disc out may be a bit more challenging.

So replacing the belt for the backbox animation was I lot easier than I expected. Just had to take off two screws holding the rod for the motorcycle then under a sticker was a single Philips screw holding on the background disk. With the screw out I tilted that forward and was able to slip on a new belt (o-ring) and the reassemble it. That part is working well now. Have a couple lamps out and switches to check but the game is playable. The small flippers on the sides don’t seem to work so need to dig into those next.

I understand how they are supposed to work and the lights are on. Neither one works after the ball rolls over the switch. So more troubleshooting is needed. It isn’t clear from the schematics how those are controlled. Does a relay engage to power them? I still need to refresh the driver board so there could be a couple open transistors on that yet.

A bit more info on how those small flippers are activated and controlled once the switch is hit will help. Will probably dig in a bit more tomorrow.

I've run into a weird problem on Devil Riders. Can no longer start a game. When I power up the game I notice it actives the coil to knock down target 1 of the right drop target bank. Then if I try to start a game it seems to trigger the coil to knock down target #2 on the right bank instead of kicking out the ba;; into the shooter lane. It seems that it is activating the wrong coils.

Has anyone run into this before?

In the meantime I am going to look at the docs and schematics to see if I can isolate it.

That was it. The three pin connector that should have been all the way to the left on pins 22, 23, and 24 was not. It was next to the 2 pin connector and the two larger ones were shifted over. Have them marked now so it won’t be an issue again.

If you unplug the displays (with the power off) and try running each display alone to see if all the digits appear or not. If they work try adding additional displays to see if it is the load on the HV doing it and if so then it should be rebuilt as mentioned in the previous post.

Otherwise if it points to the MPU then you have work to do. Does it look like the MPU ever had corrosion? If so was it all addressed? If not could be an issue with some of the display circuits including the 2101 RAM that holds he numbers for each of the displays.

Then you may be looking at a bad ribbon cable or something on the MPU. One way to determine for sure is to rejumper one of the bad displays to a location that worked. If it does work then it points the the cable or MPU. Otherwise troubleshoot each of the displays. You may just have a wire that drives the digit that needs to be desoldered to the PCB or one of the components driving the digit of the display is bad.

I am looking for a couple red flipper covers for the generation 2 games. For a nice Devil Riders that I am slowly putting back together. Even one would help. Am trying to keep this as original as possible and I think that is one of the last pieces I need.

Anyone out there have one or two stashed away you could spare? Even one would help. Please let me know if you have one.

I may end up using the translucent Bally/Williams bats for the lower pair of flippers and just keep the originals for the upper ones the need the long shaft. I can probably do that now but figured it was worth asking if there were still any covers around.

Should probably talk to one my my friends that does machining and welding to get some extra Bally/Williams flippers and see if he can make an extended shaft do they would work on the upper playfield. Suppose at some point that will be needed anyway.

I recently went through and rebuilt a couple MPU 2 boards for Devil Riders. Both working now except that one (the one that had battery damage) still has an issue interacting with the sound card. Just need to make time to track that down.

Definitely verify the ROM images to make sure that they are ok and haven't degraded. If those are bad the board won't boot. As far as I remember the 2101 is written to by the CPU (but can't read from it) and the contents are just used for the displays. Unless it is bad in a way that is pulling up or down one of the address or data lines preventing the code from running. That chip should be socketed. If so pull and test.

I also ran into bad RAM on the board used for the main part of the game. That kept it from coming up. On my one clean board I installed a 4F memory capacitor so no need to get NVRAM or off board battery. So far it is working well.

If you get stuck I may be able to repair it for you. Just need to wrap up some existing repairs first.

I read there was but that it was flakey. Probably due to the odd combination of RAM chips used on these boards. While I am a fan of NVRAM and use those on a lot of boards I don't think they work well on these boards and I wouldn't recommend it. Off board battery pack with blocking diode or a large memory cap are options I would go with. Some have used a coin cell with blocking diode.

Can you post pictures of your displays? I may have some of the earlier ones that would fit that.

I will dig out what I have. Can look tomorrow.

I have six of the 6-digit Zaccaria displays (each is made up of three 2-digit glass) and I have one 8-digit Zaccaria display using the single 8-digit glass. The only Zaccaria game I own is a Devil Riders that uses the 7-digit displays. Unfortunately I don't have any way to test these 6 and 8 digit displays.

I do have an extra nice Bally 6-digit display that is tested and confirmed working in case you still need one of those.