(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,476 posts
  • 321 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by swampwiz
  • Topic is favorited by 122 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_1457 (resized).JPG
IMG_1455 (resized).JPG
20240415_124758 (resized).jpg
20240415_125351 (resized).jpg
power board (resized).jpg
power board fuses (resized).jpg
player 4 (resized).jpg
player 3 (resized).jpg
player 2 (resized).jpg
player 1 (resized).jpg
high score (resized).jpg
MPU & driver boards (resized).jpg
credit ball-in-play (resized).jpg
Farfalla2 (resized).jpg
IMG_5399 (resized).jpg
IMG_5400 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider martymart.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#2855 1 year ago

Hopefully someone can help with this one as I am new to working on Zaccaria's and have a Magic Castle that will not boot. I am looking to see if this is due to the power supply board or potentially the CPU.

I have tested the voltage from the transformer and they all looked ok.

Red / Red = 167v
Yellow / Yellow = 10.8v
Green/white / White/Green = 7.1v
Blue / Blue = 43.6v
Brown / Brown = 9.83v

The voltage at the test points on the Power Supply Board had a couple of points that looked out of spec and I was wondering would this cause the Power Failure to stop the machine booting.

TP1 - 198v - Tested this again later and it was showing 220v although display was disconnected so may be to no load
TP2 - 9.16v
TP3 - 5.9v
TP4 - 5.1v
TP5 - 38.1v
TP6 - -5.19v
TP7 - 4.95v

TP7 is also showing a high signal when tested with a logic probe.

As a starting point do I need to rebuild parts of the Power Supply Board. Looking at the results the High Voltage and 12v are off where they should be.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated as looking forward to getting this machine working.

#2858 1 year ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Your HV is damaged, one or both 2N3440 are dead and you are going to kill your displays if you don't fix it.
Better you compare the resistors values in the HV area with the schematics, sometimes the are dead too and this may kill the 2N3440 again.
Without the correct 12v output you may have the power failure active.
You may try to replace P2 rectifier.

Ok thanks for the information. I will order the parts and replace what is needed. Is it also worth replacing C1 while I have the board out.

#2859 1 year ago

What is everyone using as a TR1 2N3584 alternative on the power supply board.
There is a tip49 installed currently on this board although need to test if it is ok.

I am about to order some parts so thought I would grab some spares.

#2863 1 year ago
Quoted from gianfri:

I agree
But in the case of 220v getting out from the HV I have always experienced only the 2N3440 as the root cause.
I agree that the tip50 is cheap therefore can be replaced too

Thanks everyone for all your advice. I have parts arriving hopefully tomorrow so will let you know how I go.

#2864 1 year ago

Thank you for everyones help to date.

I have just rebuilt most of the HV circuit and the HV is now at 188v down from 220v. Is this now an ok level or does it need to be lower. I haven't changed TR1.

I am still low on the 12v circuit. I am now showing 10.9v which is up from the 9.1v I was getting earlier. I have changed the P2 and not sure if I need to change the 2x 10,000uf 16v caps.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

#2866 1 year ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Caps are only needed for the 5V
I'm very surprised because between the rectifier and the 12V output there are only the C6 and C7.
Then you have D3, you can test it.
Can you also check what you have at the positive output of P2?

I have just checked the voltage at positive P2

Under load (all boards plugged excluding driver board) I have got 11.4v but it quickly drops to 10.8v

With no load (all other boards unplugged) it is sitting at 13.04v

I was wondering given the age of the capacitors C6 & C7 could this pull it down when under load.

#2868 1 year ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Without being a big expert I would say that C6 and C7 should not be the problem because you have a good 5v output from the 78H05
Do you still have the CPU in reset mode or does it run now?
Have you tried to run the machine without sound board connected?

The CPU has the LED on with the displays showing zeros. I have disconnected the sound board and I still have the same problem.

Could it be an issue on the CPU. Sorry this is the first Zaccaria I have worked on, I really appreciate the time to assist me.

#2870 1 year ago
Quoted from gianfri:

If the displays show something then the MPU starts, the power board is no longer you main problem.
You need to understand if the MPU works, if the MPU doesn't react then it may have problems.
Have you tried to program it? or to enter credits?
To program you need to put SW4 on the MPU to ON position and then follow the instructions on the user's guide.

I have now tried the Board Installation and Game Setup process and was not able to get anything to start or change from the current state of zeros. I am guessing there is an issue on the MPU. Is there a process to follow for trouble shooting these types of issues. I am used to B/W machines so this is all new to me.

1 month later
#2905 1 year ago

Has anyone had an issue where the cpu locks on solenoids.

I am working on a Magic Castle (power supply fixed and interface board fixed). Using a working CPU I am able to play a game and everyting works as it should.
When I install the original CPU the machine boots although at least 3 solenoids turn on and stay on. Has anyone seen this before as i am not sure where to start looking with this one. I am new to Zaccaia so still finding my way around these boards.

#2912 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Did you install NVRAM on the original board? Certain brands do not play nice with Zacc boards and cause lock ons like that.

I have not installed NVRAM although I have replaced IC 5 due to battery damage. Maybe I will try another 2114 in there jiust incase it is bad.

#2913 1 year ago

I have just tried another 2114 and have the same issue.
Is there another part of the hors I should be looking at. I have checked the 3081’s and they measure ok as I have seen these hold solenoids on a early SS Bally. Can the 4028’s cause any issues.

#2915 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

if you had battery acid damage, I think you have more damaged than just that socket. It gets everywhere. And if it was on the legs of the other chips, it grows into the chip leg, up and into the plastic casing of the IC. Causes all kinds of random shit to happen.

Ok thanks. I will look for a replacement 6514 and will remove/replace the socket.

1 month later
#2947 1 year ago

Are there flipper rebuild kits avaialbe for Zaccaria's. Looking to rebuild some on a Magic Castle although I am not able to find anything at the usual on line parts suppliers.

#2949 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

No need for a kit. Take it apart, clean the plunger. Clean the stop, put a new sleeve in, and put back together. Just like new.

Ok. Thanks I will give that a go.

2 weeks later
#2971 1 year ago

I am looking to replace the flipper EOS switches on a Magic Castle including the stack.

Is there an alternative part / part number that people are using when sourcing the EOS parts. I have looked at the usual places although not sure what is a suitable replacement.

#2973 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think Gottlieb parts are a good enough match.

Thanks, I was thinking this may be the case.

Does anyone have any part numbers of what Gottlieb switches they have used for EOS switches in the past. Just looking to get the correct configuration for the stack.

1 week later
#2995 1 year ago

I need to adjust the EOS stack (right flipper) on a magic castle and was wondering how they are to be configured. Mine are as per the following.
- First switch closest to the flipper is closed and then open at end of stroke.
- The middle switch looks to be always closed (not sure if this is correct)
- The top switch is open although closed at the end of stroke.

I am not sure if this is correct and it seems weird the middle switch is currently closed always so thought I would double check.

Any advice or photos would be of great assistance.

#3002 1 year ago
Quoted from martymart:

I need to adjust the EOS stack (right flipper) on a magic castle and was wondering how they are to be configured. Mine are as per the following.
- First switch closest to the flipper is closed and then open at end of stroke.
- The middle switch looks to be always closed (not sure if this is correct)
- The top switch is open although closed at the end of stroke.
I am not sure if this is correct and it seems weird the middle switch is currently closed always so thought I would double check.
Any advice or photos would be of great assistance.

Sorry for the repost.
Is there anyone who can assist. Even a photo will help.

2 weeks later
#3018 1 year ago

Should the middle switch on the right hand flipper switch stack be open or closed when the flipper is in the resting position.

C2991700-E78D-49D0-AFCC-E64FF3DB5473 (resized).jpegC2991700-E78D-49D0-AFCC-E64FF3DB5473 (resized).jpeg
#3023 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

you can tell by looking at the switch setup. the pawl hits that first bottom switch, which opens it up. that plastic piece. next, would push the next switch closed. at the same time, push the top switch closed. If you study the action of the switches, you can see what they are suppose to do.

Perfect, thanks for the detail.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 55.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Pomona, CA
$ 29.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 50.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 5.75
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Jeffersonville, IN
8,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Elkhorn, WI
$ 19.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
899
Machine - For Sale
San Francisco, CA
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider martymart.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-pinball-owners-club-all-welcome?tu=martymart and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.