(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

10 years ago


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  • 3,449 posts
  • 320 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by CaptainNeo
  • Topic is favorited by 123 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Nihonmasa.
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#1211 5 years ago

Owner from today of a Farfalla!
My first Zaccaria.

When I tested it with the seller it suffered from reboots.
Will get to it when I have some space to work on it.
May have some questions

#1218 5 years ago

My farlalla is now plugged.
There is a clear reboot issue; it works for like 1mn and then rebootsvery often.
Any hint?
I'd like to save it

Edit:
Found this, gonna follow it!
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html
I'm gonna solve it and turn this machine into a skittle box!

#1219 5 years ago

After controls, on the power supply board, at TP2 I have 8V where I should have 12.

Bridge rectifiers to change?

#1221 5 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

yes, go for P2

Changed all 3 as I was at it and no reboot so far!
And a shiny 14V (with nothing plugged) when I was getting 8 before

Was finally able to play a full game!
Incredible for 1983; huge digitalisations!

#1223 5 years ago

Farfalla 1 - Nihonmasa 0
Was working under the playfield when it fell right on my head.
5 stitches in the hospital...

6FCC5AC9-EA0D-432D-9AC2-CE2C2CDB7379 (resized).jpeg6FCC5AC9-EA0D-432D-9AC2-CE2C2CDB7379 (resized).jpeg

#1226 5 years ago

ok, the damn thing hates me..
After trying to kill me it acts up on me..

Tried to power it on today: no boot.

Symptoms: Sound LED always ON; CPU LED On for like 1/2 sec along with the display, then both CPU LED and display are OFF.

What I checked:
All voltage in the power supply is ok
All voltage going to the CPU is OK
ROMS desocketed and resocketed
Reflowed all connections on the CPU board
Changed both Capacitors on the CPU board
All connections are tight
All fuses are ok
Try to put the Switch4 to ON => strictly nothing else happened.

Still acting up the same way. It is clearly not booting. It was booting prior to the accident, but it was only the playfield not enough secured in its raised position dropping on me. I don't see any link...

Any idea? I'm getting lost and tired
Help ...

#1228 5 years ago

Hi Gianfri,

Many thanks for your feedback!

It was OFF; so I am also amazed. Much be a coincidence?
Leftover from it's previous condition (bad) which activated and blew something after I solved the reboot problem?

Pins 3 & 4 are at 5V indeed. Tested a boot with the reset wire attached: still stuck in the same point.

#1230 5 years ago

Hi Gianfri.

Once again thanks for your help
F2 & F3 are ok.
I have double checked for shorts: nothing.
The GI circuit does lit up as usual when i am poweting the machine.

For me it is stuck at the beginning of the sequence and can’t boot.

Before, when I had the 12V issue, it was reseting due to the power failure, but it booted.

#1231 5 years ago

While waiting on solving my main issue, I decided to tackle a more trivial one; the neon!

I did not manage to find someone still doing neons, and further ones were way too expensive.

So I decided to do a diy with a hozzle and a strip of 12V leds

I am happy with the results so far. We’ll see for real when the Vampire (her new nickname) will finally boot again!

Cons: losing the 360 of the neon, it created shade curves in the angles. Can live with it.

Original stuff has been stored, for fiture use I hope.

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3 weeks later
#1256 5 years ago

Never saw a Spooky yet, even though I am close to Italy. Maybe I'll see one one day.

#1257 5 years ago

Hi there,

I finished upgrading my Farfalla and am giving you some feedback.

I fitted the LED display kits from Lazlo (http://www.zaccaria-pinball.hu/en/):
- they are really cheap (10€ each, 12 on ebay)
- they work just fine (see pics)
- Lazlo provides instructions and is helping
- There is a lot of soldering/desoldering to do, so do not do it if you are not confortable with this

For me it took much longer than I though it would, motivated me to buy a desoldering station, but it does look very nice and the price can not be beaten. My Farfalla is now in the 21st century, no more 100V, no more incandescent bulbs, no more old boards... It should run for decades!

If you want LED displays and like projects like this, go for it! You won't be disappointed.

(I managed to take the pic exactly when the screen was blinking, thus the empty display 1 )
20190417_172808 (resized).jpg20190417_172808 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1271 4 years ago

Hmm can be a lot of stuff
Resit the roms, cables, resolder all the pins.

Also check your displays the nr2 and the credit (below it) should be the other way around.

#1279 4 years ago

The guy in Holland is Han. He is currently working on a Gen2 MPU & driver board I sent him

The driver boards and MPUs made by Gianfri are also very good.
Fitting them in my Farfalla gave it a new youth, if you want to bullet-proof it.
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/new-zaccaria-cpu-board-1b1165evo-for-g2-pinball-machines/

#1281 4 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Not sure what you mean by that
So I swap the rims out then put dip switch to other position ?

Nope, go to test mode with the white button in the door, then go to setting 30 and put it to 1

#1290 4 years ago

These are regular buttons. Just the usual ones like nowadays stern, jjp...

If you look above at the pic of my farfalla you will see I swapped mines with clear, illuminated buttons.

2 weeks later
#1315 4 years ago

Here is a link to mine, did not see any ghosting or anything though I used leds from various different provider to acheive my rainbow.

#1320 4 years ago

Well, I had issues with mine, ended up buying a new board and sent the old one for repair to the nederland specialist. He does not speak english though.

#1346 4 years ago

There's a guy from hungary that does LED displays for a cheap price for Zacs.
Installed it on my Farfalla, was all good.

9 months later
#1819 4 years ago

Got a Farfalla, which was in pieces.
I am putting back everything together, but on the power driver board I have red and black wires coming cout; they were cut. Where are they going to?

Any pic appreciated!

#1821 4 years ago

Sure can!

20200321_200228 (resized).jpg20200321_200228 (resized).jpg
#1824 4 years ago

Have everything.
I know the roms are wrong
Haven't assembled the head to the body yet, preparing before.

20200321_230229 (resized).jpg20200321_230229 (resized).jpg
#1826 4 years ago

yep, it had the connector so I just resoldered one. No schematics on hand unfortunately, but it was simple; I just did not see it as I was focused on the head which was apart from the cables
should have looked there for a connector first

#1827 4 years ago

first boot done: it reboots non stop after like 1 sec.
Any hint where to look at?

edit: values are ok except TP4 which is at 2.9 instead of 5VDC

Edit 2: removed the dreaded white watch dog wire => pinball booted just fine!

Now I have everything working except the inserts; none of them is working. Investigating.

#1830 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My original board doesnt have the white wire.
But I did buy a new CPU and driver board from gianfri, mine are pretty torn up.

Both boards are fine it seems here.
Only having an issue with the 5VDC from the power driver board, which creates the issue with the inserts (at least I guess).
If I read the schematics correctly I should replace P3 bridge?

#1832 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The power board is very simple.
I would shotgun it and just replace all the 30 year old parts.
One thing though, I would definitely get the LED displays from gianfri and disable the 170v circuit.
The 170v system is ancient and totally unnecessary at this point. Its good to avoid fires lol.
They are inexpensive and very easy to build. I built them all in 4 hrs.
They are just perfect.

that's already ordered with him

#1835 4 years ago

well I have no clue on how to find what's causing it.
I replaced P3 with a KBPC1032 => still no insert light but F3 is blowing up everytime. How can I test to figure what's reducing it? Cause according to the schematics, it's the 6,3VAC in (which is working fine) and 5VDC out
http://www.pinrepair.com/zac/manuals/zac2_farfalla_sch.pdf page 8

Edit: F3 blow up was caused by me, not soldering the new P3 correctly.
Everything is now working as intended

#1843 4 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Do like pinball_ric said.
Remove all output connectors and verify, you may have a short in one of the lamp holders which kills the 6v

As stated above everything has worked just fine after I replaced P3

1 month later
#1923 3 years ago

Hi guys,
Just got a soccer kings

So far I only saw one issue: when it should be kicking balls on the upper playfield, it strugles to do so.
I hear a buzzing sound each times it tries to eject one, but nothing happens.

Any idea?

#1925 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

check out the VUK that's back there. Make sure something isn't jammed up in the ball popper. Move it freely with your hands. If that is all good. Make sure there isn't a wall missing back there, letting the ball shift and jam up on something. Something is binding somewhere. also make sure you have 3 balls back there.

Thanks for the feedback

it moves freely and does not look like anything is missing.
there are 4 balls there, checked in the manual and 4 is the right amount.
I'm now checking the transistor driving it, hoping it's gonna be the culprit.

#1926 3 years ago

made a couple test more:
- all transistors are ok
- swapped with a known good driver board => exact same behaviour
- swapped with the center kick out coil which is the same one => exact same behaviour

I am very puzzled here

#1930 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Check the bridge rectifier for the coils power supply.

Even if the center kick out uses the same coil and works fine?

Will also check all cables and switches again

#1933 3 years ago

checked every connection, the cable, the switches... everything is fine.
I am now changing the diod/transistor/capacitor/Resistance associated to hit, just i ncase, and will also change the whole connector.
If this still not works I am lost...

When I put the Q5 tab directly to ground I clearly hear it have a little "hum" but nothing more. There is clearly a power issue, but where....

#1935 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Try replacing the wires to the coil?

Probably the last thing to try XD So yep, will clearly try it.

Changed connector, transistor, etc => absolutely no change.

#1937 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can just clip a jumper to "double" the hot wire as a test.
Did you check the coil resistence?

The coil was swapped with the identical one (working) on the center kick out => working there, and the one which was working there is not on the other position.
Coil has been ruled out of the equation

#1939 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Laurent, I still need to restore my soccer kings so I don't know much about it but something I remember is that the balls must be 3 and not 4, have you tried to insert only 3 balls?

Hi Gianfri,

I will try but the manual specifically says 4 balls, and with only 3 balls the switch won't be down

#1951 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi Gianfri,
I will try but the manual specifically says 4 balls, and with only 3 balls the switch won't be down

Solved.
Was purely mechanical...
The rod in this popper get screwed into the plastic assy.
Mine had became substantially loose, making it sit lower than expected (for the rod part) => coil was not able to pop it up.
Screwed it back all the way up => works like a charm

In case someone has the same issue in the future, to avoid spending hours looking elsewhere

4 months later
#2150 3 years ago

hi guys,
My Farfalla has started to show a weird issue recently.
It's located on the right mini-flipper that activates when it's lit and when drain on the right and hit the flipper button => it's most of the time not working or after the 5/6th try (and thus way too late to save the ball)
Same coil is reacting instantly and perfectly when in test mode

Yes I relit the save flipper by having a DT bank down between each try
The right drain roll over is working fine as well when testing.

Any idea? Looks like a delay due to a cold solder or dying component somewhere...

#2153 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i've encountered a Farfalla with an issue like this before. Found out, the wrong diode was on the coil. you cannot use 1N4004's on these. They use a 1N4148. If you use a 1N4004, the coil will be randomly delayed, sometimes will work on time, sometimes several seconds after, sometimes before you even hit the button.

Ok will check but it worked fine for months.
Did not change the coil since.

Flipper contact would also be an option, will also check

Thanks both

2 weeks later
#2167 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

1N4148 I think are much faster.
Btw we didn't hear anything back from nihonmasa

hey Gianfri

Did not have time to test. I did not pu a 1n4004 on it, it is still the stock 1n4148.

I was actually also starting to think it could be the switch diod, cause the coil works just perfectly in test mode, but ingame it fails miserably. So I am thinking the issue is not with the coil but with the switch in the outlane

I just got some 4148, so I'll be back in a few days (machine is in my club, not at home) to let you know if this solves the issue!

#2168 3 years ago
Quoted from waynej4:

Hi,
Another question: One of the EOS Flipper switches is broken on my Locomotion. Is there a recommended/suitable replacement part? I can't find one specifically for a Zaccaria, but parts for other machines do look similar, e.g :
https://pinparts.co.uk/products/180-5018-early-data-east-eos-switch-subs-for-wms-10a-8
Would something like this work?
Thanks,
Wayne.

yes it will. just make sure to wire it identically as the one you have right now. take pictures before removing it.

#2169 3 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

hey Gianfri
Did not have time to test. I did not pu a 1n4004 on it, it is still the stock 1n4148.
I was actually also starting to think it could be the switch diod, cause the coil works just perfectly in test mode, but ingame it fails miserably. So I am thinking the issue is not with the coil but with the switch in the outlane
I just got some 4148, so I'll be back in a few days (machine is in my club, not at home) to let you know if this solves the issue!

Issue solved, culprit was indeed the Diod, but not in the outlane, the EOS one

#2171 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

On the coil?
Just today I checked mine and I have 1N4004 on the coils.

Nope, on the EOS switch
My coils also have 1n4004.

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