I actually really enjoy the gameplay on this one for some reason. It's a lackluster theme to be sure though, and I'll be very surprised if there's any market for this at 3k+ (a very nice one sat forever stateside recently at that). Unfortunately this is a case of just because you did the work, it doesn't mean anyone is going to pay you for that work. I genuinely like the game and would love a nice copy, but I didn't bite on that 3k one. I'll be amazed if you see 5k, but good luck and nice work.

Thank you for your honest post. You're right in saying that if someone puts in many hours of work to make something beautiful, they shouldn't then sell it at a very high price. Take the Locomotion pinball, for example, it's not easy to find, and for those who want it, a restored one like this is being offered for sale regardless of its price. Now I'll post some photos of how the cabinet looked before and the back cabinet before our restoration.

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I am still looking for a working gen 1 driver board for my shooting the rapids project or someone who can repair the gen 1 driver board that I have. Game boots, all switches work and register, no controlled lights or solenoids.

I could provide one, but the shipping would be from Italy, it would be quite expensive.

Congrats on the new addition.
Awesome machine, that deserves saving! Can't wait to see the "after" pictures.

With a Magic Castle backglass/insert?

I'd gladly fix the one you have but I'm also in Italy, so I imagine shipping back and forth is going to be too expensive.

I was playing Locomotion with the other half last night, the ball drained and when I looked up it looked as if the game had gone from 3 balls to play to 1 ball to play. It had skipped an entire ball, for both of us.

I remember the ball draining fast, like it often does but nothing else untoward.
The next two games played normally.

What would cause it to skip a ball for both players? Is this even possible?

Hello.
First of all, great job you're doing with your Robot. I'm restoring 3 Robots in Italy, and I need to reproduce its backglass and playfield. If I can be of assistance, please let me know.
Please find my Robot attached.

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Here the Backglass and the backpanel

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Any chance of a playfield reproduction being for sale? The playfield on mine is ... bad

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Of course , i sent a PM .

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" You can contact me for anything you may need; you already have my contact information.

Got a couple more up and running,shopped out with new rubbers and Leds.
Only another 4 to go

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New Farfalla playfields would be cool....

Awesome work!

I have a Farfalla project that I will be selling. What are the values on working examples?

Started working on my magic castle today. It used to work, but quit working some time ago and I just pushed it in back in the shop and thought I’d get to it another day.
I replaced all connectors and header pins on the power board. I also, fixed any fuse clips that needed to be replaced.
Upon power up, the machine would not boot. Checking power at all test points on the power board. TP4 tested about half of the voltage that should be there, which was about 2.5 V AC.
Check incoming voltage at the fuses F3, which should be about 6.5 V. AC was hardly anything there. Further checking on this fuse and disconnecting everything. The voltage is actually at F3 with the fuse out but is basically gone when the fuse is reinstalled.
Checking the schematics and it appears that I have a bridge rectifier that probably needs to be replaced. It is a 50 V 25 amp bridge. What I have is a 35 V 200 W that I use in my 90s Bally/Wiliams machines. Am I OK to replace the one that’s 50 V 25 A with my 35V 200 W Bridge?
Any help would be appreciated.

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If my math is correct, 35V/200W is about 6A which is well below the original 25A.
I wouldn't risk it. Rectifiers are cheap and easy to find, so I recommend buying a new one.

Sorry, posted this wrong was very tired last night and did it too quickly.
Original bridge is 25A 50V
Can I replace with 35A 400V?
It’s over rated, but should work?

Overrated is good in this case, so that should work!

I follow Dave Gersics advise when replacing bridge rectifiers. Here are the specs from his site, which do not match what you wrote. (gen2/power supply section). He refers to mouser for replacements but others are fine with the same rating.

http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/index.html

The schematic / parts list calls for these bridge rectifiers:

Bridge Rectifier Part Number Rating
P2 KBPC 8005 50V 8A
P3 KBPC 10005 100V 10A
P5 KBPC 1002 200V 10A

You can substitute a higher rating for any of these. These:
Bridge Rectifier Mouser Part Number Rating
P2 583-BR1005 50V 10A
P3 583-MP254 400V 25A
P5 583-MP254 400V 25A

Thank you both.

That's my next project.

Does anyone have a set of pop bumper caps for a Magic Castle? All three of mine are broken with no tabs? PM me let me know,
Thanks…..Mike

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Interesting, I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the tip.

Still no solenoids or controlled lamps on my shooting the rapids project. This is after receiving a known good working gen 1 driver board. I can start a game, although I get four loud beeps at start, and all switches register points. power to driver board is good with stable 5vdc. All new CPU and power board. Fuses check out fine. New connector cable between CPU and driver board.

I am thinking of doing a full restoration on my Magic Castle. Would like to do the cabinet as one side is faded. Asking here is there anyone that has done this in the states? If so where did you get the stencils from? Does anyone make them?
Any input would be appreciated.

Not sure about gen 1 Zac but my Pinball Champ had a similar issue and it was two fuse holders under the playfield. The fuses were good but the holders themselves needed to be replaced.

did you check the switch for the eject for the lower attack zone area? the goalie eject? Sounds like it thinks it's in the upper. Or a switch is too close on the upper playfield and hits closed, making the game think there is a ball up there.

or a little dab of silicone glue does wonders to hold these in, yet able to pull them up when needed.

This pin has no fuses under the pf. Two relays that control flippers and drop target bank.

I am getting no power/voltage reading on an solenoid. For some reason no power, except for GI lights, making it to the pf.

StratDoc I believe Shooting the rapids should have at least a fuse under the playfield.
However if controlled lamps do not work, that's not the issue.

Is the power cable to the driver board good?
A bad driver board can blow the CA3081 on the CPU board occasionally.

Not sure about the 4 loud beeps, I don't remember any sounds being played when the game starts.

I have checked again and no fuse under pf. The power cable to the driver board is good and tests at 5vdc.

I have also checked continuity from cn3 6 violet/white to pf. This is the common voltage connection for pf solenoids. Have continuity to each solenoid.

I have a locomotion that doesn’t make the chuff noise. I see in the manual that you change the setting to turn it on. My machine doesn’t have the little circuit board with the dip switches to change the settings. Am I missing something? Is the chuff programmed into a chip on some machines?

J

surely it works

Hi , check if in the test 20 = 01 ( Display Credit)

ok but there is the continuity from TP6 Power Supply to the solenoid?

How do I get to test 20? When I hit the button it only scrolls 1-5.

J

Turn on dipswitch 4 on the cpu

Anyone have or know of a refurbished Blackbelt that I could purchase? That is an awesome pin! I Would love to find one.