I looked at it. The Bakelite disc is broken into 2 pieces. The rest is there and looks good.

those can be fixed sometimes. Might have to be glued or reinforced from the back, depending how the unit is.

Thanks to both. Yes, I think I'll have to go the epoxy and reinforced from the back route. The back of the unit doesn't have anything on it that has to move.

that should work then. I'd go with mending the breaks first. Then use a thick plastic disc on the back of it to stablize it and and keep it flat. glue the whole thing together.

Will do. Thanks. I'll post the results.

Well, got back to working on my Devil Riders. Put most of the playfield parts back on. Before I finish installing plastics etc, I like to add extra LEDs to the playfield GI's to help brighten the playfield up. Got most of it done, just need to look at the lower section as its a bit dark yet. Overall I think it's turned out great. Your thoughts?

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i'd lose all the color ones. Go with Comets 2 SMB daylight frosted for all GI's. All the time. Too dark to do anything except white.

I like a bit of color in my life. I like to mix my machine's up a bit with color coordinating GI bulbs with the plastics above them along with cool white. Have done this on all my machine's. Most people really like what I do. I can appreciate all white if you want, but that's why we are all different, it's your choice, but appreciate your insight.

the problem is, GI's are general illumination. Means, it has a purpose. To light the playfield so you can see the ball. Humans, can't see well in colored light. The farther to the edges of the spectrum, the harder it is for humans to see. So blue/UV is one end. Red/IR is the other end. The wave band of light is much shorter and harder for humans to pickup. White light, is all colors of the spectrum. hence why it lights up all artwork colors. And most visible light to see a silver reflective ball in. It's not about looks. it's about function. You can't see well in dark gamerooms, if you use colored LED's in GIs.

This exchange is quite interesting

Need some help. Working on my Devil Riders and trying to get it 100% working. Have an issue with the left ramp center drop target, left rear bottom stationary target and right inside roll-over lane not working. Comon color wire going to all these points is a purple/brown. Have chased this wire to the CPU board connector CN10. Checked wire continuity and checked out good. Chasing further in to a chip 40097bpc cmos ic 3 state non inverter buffer. This chip appears to be my problem. Can't find this chip. Anyone have an idea for a cross reference and/or any idea if this is my issue? Any help would be appreciated.

ebay.com link: itm
https://vetco.net/products/nte40097b-ic-cmos-tristate-hex-noninverting-buffer

Looking at the 4000 series wiki and datasheets, the 4503 looks like a suitable drop-in replacement for a 40097.

I confirm, the CD4503 perfectly replaces the 40097

Thanks guys! Appreciate your help will order needed chip.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for assistance to make sure that I fix the cause of the transformer smoking prior to installing a replacement in my Locomotion machine.
The machine was on for about 30 mins and I noticed an electrical smell and before I was able to turned it off the smoke started coming up through the playfield. When lifting the playfield I noticed it had been coming from the transformer.
Can someone help with what I should be double checking/testing prior to installing a replacement transformer? With the amount of smoke/insulation burnt, I expect the transformer is done.
Thanks.

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best bet is to disconnect the plug going to the boards. and take a volt meter and see what voltage you no longer have.

you can tell by looking at the switch setup. the pawl hits that first bottom switch, which opens it up. that plastic piece. next, would push the next switch closed. at the same time, push the top switch closed. If you study the action of the switches, you can see what they are suppose to do.

Thanks, I tried disconnecting from the boards and as soon as it was turned back on the transformer started making cracking/arcing sound so I turned it off.
Could a failed component on the power board have caused the transformer failure?
Thanks

Mostly age and abuse (like dropping it on the ground) causes the shellac on the wires to wear out and short the now bare wire.

They can be rebuilt. Often cheaper than the replacement.

Just picked up a pinball champ that has williams flipper bats on the main flippers. Want to find the original. Hopefully someone has a set of 2 with shaft and shoe and cover.

Thanks

Neo,

Yes, I am getting 5v at the connector going out to the MPU board. Also of note, when power supply is connected to the MPU I show correct voltage on the MPU board connectors. TP1 on the MPU tests 5v, but is only reading 2v. Somewhere between the MPU connector and the rest of the MPU the voltage is dropping??

I sent the MPU back to Gianfri at pinball solutions a while back and he said everything checked out okay on the MPU.

maybe the voltage is dropping under load? or dropping after heating up. does TP1 stay 5v right off the bat? or after it's been on a bit and heated up?

5v test point on the power supply stays constant. 5v pin on the MPU connector stays constant. I pulled the mpu and reattached - now 5v test point on the MPU reads 6.6v, but MPU still not booting.

maybe the watchdog or clock circuit is not working? but you said the MPU board tests good? try unplugging the sound board.

Sent to board back to pinball solutions and was told board checked out fine. Nothing else is plugged in - only connections attached are power supply to MPU and power supply to GI pf lights.

It booted - not sure what I did other than kept messing with the connectors.

The original ribbon connectors for the display have one plugged for a missing pin on the displays. The new pinballsolutions board at CN11 has no missing pin so the ribbon connector will not plug in. Hesitant to remove the plug for fear of connecting something backwards.

UPDATE - drilled the plug on the connector. Appears to work fine. Two working original displays show 000000 when game is turned on. Now need to figure out audits/settings.

Thanks, I tried comparing the resistance with one of my other machines. The locomotion is overload for all.
I have double checked all the fuses and note that the power board F2 silk screen and schematics state 5a but there is a sticker on the power board that says 10a. I’ve read that the factory added stickers.
Is F2 correct at 10a (this was what was installed) or should it be 5a?
Thanks

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The Mr Game machines used quite a few Zaccaria parts. Are those covered in this thread too? Not too much information out there on them. I fixed two of those machines but still have a couple issues on one getting into the setup to adjust settings.

Need help/advice. Just about finished with my Devil Riders and another issue popped up. Just been testing with player one only and the game has been working well until a friend stopped by and said lets try two players. Well once the start button was pushed for player one the game started as it has been, but when pushed for player two it froze up reset the drop targets again and locked up. You then can shoot the ball into play and once it hits the ball drain hole the machine comes back to life to player one. This repeats if you push for more players.
Haven't read in this thread yet of this issue happening. Any suggestions as to what, where to begin fixing this problem. Your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

No idea :/

You are the one I hoped that would have some kind of answer for me. I am at my wits end on this issue.

I have tried two more different interface boards that do work and have got the same results once a two player game is started. So I feel the issue is not with the interface board, which I didn't think it was anyhow.

Tried back tracing the 1,2, 3 and 4 player wires off the back board which do go to the interface board first, but traced one wire trace to the CPU board which in turn goes to a number of chips on the CPU board. It this point I would be just replacing chips just in hope that I found the correct one.

Is there anyone that would have suggestions (other than a new replacement CPU) that would help me fix this issue would be appreciated.
Thanks....Mike

After thinking more about my issue it's like after you start player one and then try to add player two the machine acts like you are starting over again for player one and not adding another player if this helps anyone. Hope this makes sence.

I had a similar issue with Scramble when I got it. When I tried to start a second player, the game would reset as if you just turned it on.

turned out the roms were made so you had to bypass the watchdog circuit TP7 on the MPU board. TP7 has a bigger pad that is actually cut into 2 sections. For scramble. I had to arch the 2 sections. But zacs use them as 2 pieces. Maybe someone arched the 2 sections and it's messing with the zac roms? if it is open. Try arching the 2 sections as see if the 2 player game starts then.

The white wire going to the MPU board runs the watchdog circuit. I have seen people remove this wire. Never knew why, but might be a way to bypass problems like you are having.

In audits I can get the displays to rotate through numbers - 111111, etc. No other audit functions seem to work and although MPU now checks out fine cannot get a game to boot. Not sure where to look next. Driver board is rebuilt.

no acid damage on the board?

Is there a battery on the board that works?

Have you reseated the roms?

Neo it is pinballsolutions gen1 replacement MPU and a rebuilt driver board. Yes, pushed on the roms to make sure were seated properly. Now when turned on displays show all 9s and get no diagnostics or audits to work. MPU lights indicate everything is fine.

hummm, I wonder if you should reburn a new set of roms. Burn a set from Daves Free play roms.

Hello i am new here i have buy today a Pool Champion waaaaw what a special pinball i have also a 100% perfect Spooky ant a farfallla project

I think this replacement board is universal for all gen1 pins. May Gianfri can sell me a replacement for this board?

#Locomotion help wanted! Last year with a lot of help from this forum I got my Locomotion up and running. Unfortunately, it went haywire last weekend and doesn’t work anymore! When I turn the machine on I get a single zero in each of the displays. Pressing the self test button once yields a single nine in the top left display. Pressing it again causes all displays to cycle count zero through nine except for the lower right one. Single digits only. Another press lights up a couple of playfield lights. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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that's right, i forgot he has the roms already put in. Has to be the power supply board then.

reseat all your ribbon cables in the game. Push on the rom chips. reseat the MPU power. the Ribbon for the displays, going to the board, and each individual display.

Mike, I was thinking of your problem and reading back all you wrote I was wondering if the behavior is not just correct.

It is normal that if you modify the number of players you are not playing.
If you add players after having started the game you just reset the current game and all stops.
Once you finish to select the number of players you can launch the ball and start the multiplayer game.
If points are scored before you select more players then the machine stops and needs you to send the ball in the out hole to start it again.

If this is the behavior then you have no problems, it's just normal.

Actually nothing to do with the power...

This machine has suffered of tons of different problems.

The last one in order of time is related to the memory which needs to be programmed but without working displays it's impossible to set the game parameters to allow the machine to start.
It's a long and painful path to bring this machine back to life :/

Well I found the problem and I think you will be surprised as I was and its not something that you would normally find.
First off I want to thank everyone that helped with suggestions and believe me I tried them all.
Had a pinball friend/tech come over last night. We reviewed all that I had tried/done to find the problem. He brought his eprom/rom burner, so he burned new rom's and we then gave those a try with no success.
Talked further what to do next. He suggested that since I own a Farfalla that's in working condition and the CPU has the same jumpers as the Devil Riders we decided to switch CPU boards and give that a try.
Once roms were switched the Devil Riders CPU board worked correctly in Farfalla machine and the CPU board from Farfalla had the same results/issue I have been having in the Devil Riders! WTF! We were both puzzled.
We then started checking other items on the machine and found that the Farfalla had only one set of contacts for the start button and the Devil Riders had two! Upon further investigation someone took out the service button on the Devil Riders and changed it to a leaf switch and added to the back side of the start button! Now it makes sense on how and why the game was acting the way it was.
We both felt like we had success hi fived and quit working on my machine as I will fix it tomorrow and moved to playing some pinball in my game room!

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Here are some pictures of my finished 100% working Devil Riders.

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Gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.