I can second this, his boards are works of art!

[The flippers on my Locomotion are way out of alignment. I had bent the coil stop to compensate but it didn't last long.

I can't find anything that fits these grub screws, it always feels like I'm stripping them out.

Has anyone rebuilt or replaced parts on Zac gen1 flippers?
Can these be replaced?

What about plungers and coil stops?
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Im working on a customer's Devil Riders. The motorcycle does not spin. Motor works fine, but it looks like there was maybe a rubber band which connected the motor to the motor cycle cylinder (Im thinking it would have sat in the two grooves of the metal), which is missing. Does anyone know of a replacement I could use?

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Time Machine update; setting #31 to 0 does allow us to play a game that does end. Yeah, but would still like to get the bonus time feature to work. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. A different issue; one of the pop bumper does not work during game play. The switch test shows the switch is working properly and the coil does fire during the coil test. Is this going back to a software problem or what am I missing?

There is a drive belt that spins the motorcycle. I recall seeing this before and searched for a solution, hope it helps you:

"For the drive belt on Devil Riders, head to the hardware store and ask for a #38 o-ring. Looks to fit perfectly without too much tension, drives my bike fine. If that's not tight enough, can also use a #25 but wasn't sure if it was too much tension. Should be able to grab both for under $2.00 total."

Thank you, I will try it out and report back

I used a black band hair tie for the motor cycle once. Lasted for 7 years.

Lol i tried one of my hair ties, didnt work. Worth a shot

I used the black ones that have fabric over the elastic. Worked for years.

There are different sized and style hair ties, I use medium round, so who knows....

Looks almost like a stretched pinball rubber would work? Or is the pulley too skinny?

Thank you man, I just saw this message.

We are pushing hard to offer the best service experience, we have subscribed agreements with Fedex, DHL and UPS to be able to offer fast shipping all over the globe and we are amazed by the increasing volume of sales to USA and Australia.

At the same time we are constantly improving our products and expanding our catalogue with new ones.

Next challenge is the global components shortage and the constant increase of prices for components and shipping.

Your comments motivate us pushing even harder.
Thanks!

I used a very easy solution without even removing the mechanism which is still working but I don't know the English name

It's the plastic belt which sometimes is used in the movies to tie prisoners hands and feet, "cable tie"???

Devil Riders question: Just starting working on my DR and came accross two posts by the lower two pop bumpers. These do appear factory installed. Were they installed so that a ball wouldn't get stuck in this location?

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I think yes because it happens very often that the ball remains stuck exactly there and then you need to shake the machine to get it away from there.

Hello Zaccaria pinball collectors. I am working on a Zaccaria Devil Riders. Wanted to know if anyone here that might have a used G2 driver (interface) board they would sell me. PC #1B1166 Doesn't need to be working as I would either fix that one or mine with the two. Please PM me.
Thanks....Mike

Guys I really need your help.

The grub screws on my Locomotions flipper mechs are stuck, the flippers are misaligned and I can't adjust them at all.
We've tried everything to get them out even had pinball friends over with different tools. They're not going to budge.

So I intend to drill them out. But I need to have replacements first.

Could someone with a Gen1 Zac (unless gen 2 is the same?)measure their grub screws so i can find an equivalent? A friend brought some spare grub screws from Bally mechs but they are slightly fatter with a different thread.

I don't want to have to destroy and remove the whole irreplaceable mech and replace it with a Gottlieb one, I believe that's my last resort?

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It will come out.

Micro welds thru crystalization have locked it on. Physical shock and lubrication will break the micro-welds.

Penetrating oil and either a screw exractor or left hand drill bits will get it out without detroying it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61686.html

the idea is to cover everything, spray or brush on the oil (it doesnt take much), tap on the screw moderatley with a punch, down to the inside bottom of the set-screw about 50 times, then apply the extractor or cascade thru the left hand bits until it backs out.

Tap on the screw once in awhile to help loosen it.

If the threads in the pawl get ruined, just drill and tap it to the next larger size.

I'm in the UK but found a left hand drill set on Amazon..what is a punch down? I tried googling and got varying tool, could you reccomend a particular type?

Thanks

Anything that goes in the hole of the set-screw and touches the bottom of it, that you can hit with a hammer..

a nail, a pin-punch, a nail set, a ground down bolt, a piece of a broken Allen wrench... e.g. something you can hammer moderately on.

The idea is to "flex" the threads of the set-screw to shake off crystals and corrosion internally, then back it out with a little lubrication.

Hitting/smacking it once in awhile during the operation yields good results.

I am looking to replace the flipper EOS switches on a Magic Castle including the stack.

Is there an alternative part / part number that people are using when sourcing the EOS parts. I have looked at the usual places although not sure what is a suitable replacement.

I think Gottlieb parts are a good enough match.

Thanks, I was thinking this may be the case.

Does anyone have any part numbers of what Gottlieb switches they have used for EOS switches in the past. Just looking to get the correct configuration for the stack.

pinball resource might have them on the website.

gottlieb flipper shafts are too fat for zac.

Eventually I got them out using a screw extractor kit. It felt impossible at times and like I was going to damage the pawl.
The flipper shaft got damaged a bit by the drill bit but it's still useable thankfully.

Replaced grub screws with M6 grub screws.

It's a shame Gottlieb flippers shafts are too fat as I've not seen any other flippers that look like the Zac gen1 flippers.
Standard flippers do fit in the bushing and pawl but don't look correct.

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Decided to rerubber and try LEDs in Locomotions GI.

Mostly Comet Sunlight but a few Warm whites (I ran out, they'd probably suit better if I had more).

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That's my Locomotion full led, they look very nice

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Beautiful! And great to see another locomotion!

Did you LED everything? I am considering doing the inserts but I would be inclined to leave the row of lights under the Special tent(?) As you'd lose the fading of the lights which is a great effect.

I usually only LED the GI's on zacs. I seem to get random flicker for inserts in most of them.

Have you tried any of the Comet Optix LED's? I've had good results with those on some games where normal LED lamps would flicker. May be worth trying.

I think we discussed already several times about this subject and I repeat that with the right model of LED bulbs you don't have any flicker.

I have fully moved to LED my Locomotion and my Farfalla and both look great!

PS
Having only GI's in LED doesn't really bring any added value to my opinion.

I agree with you but I currently don't remember if I left them or not and I have no access to it right now

well they don't flicker constantly. You will just notice a quick blip in some random insert once in awhile. LIke 5 min, and then a fraction of a second, an insert will do a quick flick out of the blue. Sometimes it does, most of the time it doesn't.

Actually just LED for GI is extremely helpful in many games to reduce heat and current that can burn up GI connectors. Quite a few people swap GI LEDs just for that reason. I have many machines with bulbs but went to LED behind the backglass to reduce the heat.

A good LED job can add value. Unfortunately some LED swaps are so bad they take away value. Had one with cheap LEDs in the GI with an irritating strobe effect and went back to bulbs on that.

Using quality LEDs tastefully done is an upgrade.

I have frosted sunlight 2smd comets throughout my farfalla and there is no flicker or ghosting.

I even have them in the backbox.

If I had to pick it I'd always put LEDs in the GI first.
For Loco it was out of curiosity I did the slings then I just did it all.

For months I thought these games suit incandescents but I've found once you've upgraded you realise how much incandescents suck the life out of the artwork . Especially those blues and whites on the slingshots and lane guides. A warm or sunlight comet brings it to life.

Led in GI brightens up a game and makes things easier to see. I don't find the change with inserts as big, they'll pop more but you lose the fading effect when inserts flash which I like.

All my Bally Williams games have LEDs throughout but with ledocd or afterglow boards so you retain the fading effects.

That said, I am tempted to put a few LEDs in select inserts just to make them more consistent with others. A few just seem dim, I think because the inserts are damaged underneath from years of incandescents.

One minus for LED GI is that flashing at the end of game time bonus, In a dark room it's blinding!

GI's never flicker. It's only inserts. I use 2SMD's in every game I own. Frosted sunlights. All GI's. I don't use them for inserts because they are too bright.

Certain LED models will mitigate it somewhat.. but there are some cases where it just happens. Presume it might be a case of picking up stray voltage, or EM interference through the wiring harness etc. In general, it is fine, most machines are fine.. but once in a while, I've come across this case, so I get it for sure.

I totally get only going for GIs. It is often nice to up the lighting a bit on the Playfield. For any controlled lamps, you really lose a LOT of the incandescent pulse effect unless you can apply a PWM Led mod to retain that properly. This really drives me crazy, so it has been simmering in my project file for a while to apply this to early SS so we can control the LEDs properly.

At the end of the story... it's just a matter of personal taste, I clearly see that there are different opinions and this is how life is.

Well, finally working on my Devil Riders. I have owned this title for about 2 years now and got it in non-working condition. Mostly 100% working now and have started on refurbishing it. Will post updates on the progress.

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Area around the pop bumpers still looks great almost like new.

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I am working on a Shooting the Rapids, Gen 1 Zaccaria. I have a new MPU and power board from pinballsolutions and a rebuilt driver board and sound board.

When powered on, the power board lights indicate I have correct voltages. When I connect to the MPU - via CN6 and CN7 and get nothing on the MPU. I have repinned the connector. I am a complete novice on these Zac pins. Any help or thoughts appreciated.

are you getting 5v out of the regulator? 5v at the connector going out to the MPU board?

I need to adjust the EOS stack (right flipper) on a magic castle and was wondering how they are to be configured. Mine are as per the following.
- First switch closest to the flipper is closed and then open at end of stroke.
- The middle switch looks to be always closed (not sure if this is correct)
- The top switch is open although closed at the end of stroke.

I am not sure if this is correct and it seems weird the middle switch is currently closed always so thought I would double check.

Any advice or photos would be of great assistance.

Tonight (Monday 12/5) 7:30pm on Twitch!

Wormhole Pinball presents Zankor! Join us for a strikes tournament where we’ll compete for spider stomping dominance! … and probably be ridiculous.

https://twitch.tv/wormholepinball

Thanks luvthatapex2 for tuning in and chatting!

Super cool to know there’s a Zankor in Texas! Thanks for the stream.

(Just gotta say, it’s pronounced “Zac-uh-rhee-uh” )

Just acquired a Zac Nautilus, but it has a broken Ball Count Unit. Is there any chance of acquiring one?

can you salvage parts off the credit unit?