I hope you sdon't have problems with the two CEM ICs because those are just impossible to find on the market.

We are working on it but we are also struggling with global shortage of components.
If things get worse than now, and it looks like it will be in 2023, we may be forced to shutdown some items production because of unavailability of parts.

Check out this thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-sound-issues
I replaced my MF10CN on my Farfalla and got my back ground sounds back.

Spooky's (and Clown's) sound board is a later design that does not use the MF10CN chip, unfortunately. Spooky actually has an additional daughterboard. I'm not sure what additional sounds that daughterboard supports, if it's the music or otherwise.

I'll keep my fingers crossed gianfri

I thought they maybe the same, sorry but luck on your repair quest.

Is the watchdog stuck on? (Forget if it pulls it low or is +5)

Your HV is damaged, one or both 2N3440 are dead and you are going to kill your displays if you don't fix it.
Better you compare the resistors values in the HV area with the schematics, sometimes the are dead too and this may kill the 2N3440 again.

Without the correct 12v output you may have the power failure active.
You may try to replace P2 rectifier.

TIP49 or TIP50 are perfect for TR1

From my experience it's the last one to die, you should concentrate on the two 2N3440 and on the resistors around those components to avoid dead resistors.

martymart gianfri
I’ve seen a few bad TR1s too. When they are bad, usually both 2n3440 are also bad.
Pretty easy to check TR1. If it’s bad, it’s usually a dead short.
For what they cost, it’s worth replacing them as a set.

I agree
But in the case of 220v getting out from the HV I have always experienced only the 2N3440 as the root cause.

I agree that the tip50 is cheap therefore can be replaced too

Caps are only needed for the 5V

I'm very surprised because between the rectifier and the 12V output there are only the C6 and C7.
Then you have D3, you can test it.

Can you also check what you have at the positive output of P2?

Without being a big expert I would say that C6 and C7 should not be the problem because you have a good 5v output from the 78H05

Do you still have the CPU in reset mode or does it run now?
Have you tried to run the machine without sound board connected?

If the displays show something then the MPU starts, the power board is no longer you main problem.

You need to understand if the MPU works, if the MPU doesn't react then it may have problems.
Have you tried to program it? or to enter credits?
To program you need to put SW4 on the MPU to ON position and then follow the instructions on the user's guide.

you need to send the board for repair unless you want to play with one single shot try:

if the machine has the contact switch matrix stuck you may have IC38 dead, you can try this easy fix otherwise better to pass the board to someone who can repair it.

Can't help more...

The dip switches dont do anything?

The coindoor high score reset button on my Gen1 Space Shuttle isn't working.
I checked the connector behind the door and did a continuity test to the connector that goes to cn8, no beep.
Is it just one long wire?
Is it likely to be damaged?

It feels odd that that is the only switch that doesn't work, which isn't that important.

they suffer of oxidation, so it may just be that, it's a standard switch easy to find, if you are sure it's the switch I suggest you to replace it, in any case, shorting the two poles of the switch would confirm if it's the switch or anything else.

Can you get Zac gen1 flippers anywhere? The shafts on mine are worn so much you can't realign the flippers without the grub going into the worn area and putting the alignment back to where it was.

It was the crimp on the cabinet side of the wire. I tested it and assumed it was ok because you could see the wire in the crimp. In testing I made little cuts on the wire to narrow down where the continuity ends and it is just on the end of the crimp *facepalm* .

I've hacked it for now but need to find a suitable replacement for the connector as there's a broken crimp in one of the holes.
I think it needs to be at least 8pins

After a month of tinkering I've finally managed to get my CIRCUS up and running 100%. The ball count wasn't working, but now that it is I'm pretty proud of myself. Felt like giving up at times but happy I didn't.

Hi, I have had a problem start with my displays that flashes the first digit 2 (only on player #2) even during a game. Player 4 is missing the same segment to all. Any advice where to look for issues would be appreciated.
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D5849577-129A-4D5D-B09E-710229668707 (resized).jpeg

I have a line segment missing on my display too, like your player 4. I moved it to a different player station and the problem followed. It's pretty safe to assume its the single display causing the problem. Additionally, I tested all the diodes and looked at all the resistors within the display and everything tested okay. So far, I haven't solved the problem. I'll let you know if I figure it out.

I would say that for player 4 it's either the 4511 or the ULN2023, probably the second one.

regarding the player 2 it looks like the G1 feature, when you go over 100 millions score it shows a 1 on first digit while 200 millions would be 2.
Have you tried to program the memory again or to swap the display from player 2 to something else? In order to swap you need to change the jumper on the displays.

Thanks, I’ll let you know if I solve it.

Thanks, I’ll have a look at those components and look at swapping the displays (and jumpers). I might check out the program settings as well.
Cheers

I tried to purchase 25 minutes after the e-mail was sent out to customers. Probably just going to trade my pins for tools and equipment for surviving without power, though at this point.

I state that I am not a technician but I was able to give new life to a non-working pinball machine.
Now the right flap of my Magic Castle gives problems when I am in the game.
Once in contact with the ball, the flap is activated and deactivated rapidly (the coil excites and relaxes several times) for a few seconds or until the ball closes some other contact (for example in the hole).
I took test no. 2 for the switch and test no. 4 for the coils but I have no problems.
I thank in advance who will be able to tell me the reason for this behavior and how to be able to solve it.

If the flipper is shotgunning (moving up and down rapidly) check for a broken wire on the coil under the playfield.

Forgot to update with completed Queen’s Castle! Will have better pics later but overall turned out beautifully. Except for the sounds. Really hate the electronic sounds.

Thinking of bypassing it and using Gottlieb chimes instead. Easy to do & can be reversed.

456221EB-29B6-4258-9E7B-52A15347797D (resized).jpeg

Thanks you for your reply.
I don't think there is an electrical problem because the coil is new and its test is ok.
Anyway the problem concerns the flap (solenoid n. 2), not the flipper.

How's the gameplay on it? It looks pretty fun. Dunno about those upper flippers though.

I’ll do a video soon. It’s a good one. B+/A- tier.

Generally the flap problem you are describing is generated by shacking contact, have you tried to shake the machine during test N.2 to see if it gets randomly activated?

The second round of sale in August lasted more than that, I think around 2 days.

Next run should be available around end of September.

I have tried to shake the machine during test N.2 and no random activation was present.

Here is a link to the short video about the problem.

widen your slingshot switches out farther. The back one, not the front one that touches the rubber. You have to do both.

If Test 2 doesn't indicate the closed contact then I don't see what you would solve with this. :/

On the other hand, I don't know where this problem comes from.
If the contact is not involved I can only see the driver board as source of the problem or something wrong on the cabling of the coil.

I don't think slings are part of the switch test. I think they are just responsive and points. bang on the playfield in switch test and see if it goes off.

Zaccaria machines don’t have any direct drive coils. Everything is CPU controlled. That includes slings, so their contacts do show up in the switch test.

good to know. I wasn't sure. It has to be a switch issue, or the coil has a break in it. But I really think there is something in the switches. Pull them out and look at them. make sure some little piece of metal didn't fall down between the blades and arching your switch rapidly from vibration.

You were right.
I widened the rear blade and the problem disappeared.
Thanks very much for your help.

How rare is a House of Diamonds pinball?
There is a very nice one for sale here in Belgium...

Have a few questions on a Zaccaria Time Machine: Game seems to play correctly and adds bonus time during the third ball. However when you lose the third ball the the game switches to "Down" but never starts counting down, so the game never ends. Great for getting a high score, but like to know how to fix this problem. Other question is on the "Platform" where is it suppose to be when you start a game? The platform on this game changes position with each ball played. No stuck switches in the self-test. Is this a programming problem or am I missing something?

Wow.. really excited to see gameplay on that. Kind of reminds me of a Mata-hari - jumping jack baby.

I have a lot to learn about euro pins still. The sound I found grew on my very quickly. I went from really disliking it, to a degree of appreciation. Particularly the biri-biri, I mean, no matter what you do with wav trigger boards or chimes, that feature MUST be maintained

Also, assuming these are all 4-tone sound boards, is it just Bally and Stern that had 4-chime mechs? or would you lose a tone or double up. I read about some Zacs with a jones plug for a WMS chime unit?

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Noticed they kind of went with a more GTB like flipper on this? Wondering if there is a story there?

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I noticed this has the same spinner mech as my Combat. Funny, I was looking underneath the PF to adjust it.. until, surprise.. it's up top. Kind of an interesting design I had not seen before. Not sure what to think.. I like the simplicity of the traditional American design, but I feel this one would be better for capturing specific rotations, particularly avoiding a switch on drains through the spinner... Wondered about your thoughts on it.