Mine doesn't have the two locks for backglass, I can see where they'd go though. It does seem like the glass is tight against the baffle boxes (is that what you call them?). For example the player 3 number is worn away and you can see the paint or colour stuck to the baffle board box. I'll have to get a photo. Other than that the backglass is in good condition.

I managed to get the spinner part with my pinball solutions display order but haven't installed it yet.

The displays are great! I got two and they were straightforward to assemble.
However if set to the credits/ball display you get an extra digit illuminated at all times on the 4th digit.
It's hidden by the backglass so no big issue but a strange quirk.

That's strange, verify the solder pads, maybe you have something wrong there, swap the two displays to see if you still have the problem.

Both the new displays do it. They show two zeros in digits 3 and 4 until you start game then you get a zero in 4 but the 3rd one goes out.
They also show 01000 on start until you press start and then show 00 000 after that first game after boot

Set both to be credit display in following video. They work as normal as high score or player displays.

I have the impression that there is something weird, I'll do a test on my side but in the meantime, send me some picture, via email, of the electronic boards, thanks.

My apologies, it's actually normal to have those digits activated.

The display is not supposed to have them installed and since they are behind the backglass this is ok.

Hi everyone. I recently picked up a CIRCUS in wonderful condition. The playfield looks new and everything works *EXCEPT* both the kickout hole and drain hole have the same issue in that when the balls lands on the switch the game sounds stuck won't do anything unless I manually remove the ball from the hole or the kickout. I'm not sure where to start but I have to imagine the problems are related. Any ideas where to look? Wondering if this is a common issue. One of the wheels in this photo keeps spinning and the switches keep connecting in an endless loop whenever a balls lands in either of those two places. Outside of that the game is fine and I can play it without glass

Screen Shot 2022-06-16 at 5.24.15 PM (resized).png

sounds like the outhole and saucer are not registering properly.

I managed to fix my machine. The ball is no longer getting stuck in the kickout or drain hole. It was either a dirty switch on the 1player scoring reel or on the relay that controls it if you can believe that. Really thrilled to have this running now.

What I'm about to ask might be stupid, but I've got one last hurdle. I notice when I run out of balls (say drain my 5th ball) the game doesn't 'end'. It seems to reset in that the 'CIRCUS' lights on the playfield go back to being unlit where as during the game when you drain a ball they remain lit for the targets that have been hit. It's a minor issue but it annoys me, I want the machine to keep the ball when I drain my last ball. Any ideas what it might be?

*EDIT*. When I manually activate the coin switch on the coin door it resets the game as opposed to adding credits. This can't be right can it?

Thanks in advance

maybe something on the game over relay isn't opening all the way when activating, or isn't touching when activating

I finally tried installing the missing spinner cam today.
Am I missing something here? It spins worse with it installed. The metal loop is snug on the little nub and struggles to move, adding so much friction that you barely get any spins out of it.

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I went back to how I had it before, with the spinner arm bent slightly so it pulls the loop up and down. It spins so much nicer and makes for satisfying shots. The only drawback to my hack is the loop can fall off the end , but I solved that by lodging a mini post rubber on the end which is held in by the spinner tower.

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With my hacked version I can get 2500-3000 pts on a good shot with each spin being worth 100pts. Even better if spinner is lit and worth 1000pts a spin!

The replacement cam wouldn't give even a quarter of that.

that loop should be loose on the nub. Not tight at all. bend the loop open slightly so it's not snug.

DaveTheTrain You can also carefully sand the plastic piece a little bit until the the metal loop can freely spin around.

Yep, either the colonnina is not the same as the one used on Pinball Champ or the loop has been has been wrongly modified to be tighter...

If it's loose how does it not fall off? Is it tight against the tower?

DaveTheTrain you shouldn’t sand it so that it becomes shorter. You should sand the sides of the cylinder so that its radius decreases a little bit and and the metal loop spins more freely.
I agree that it’s a weird design by Zaccaria.

gianfri I’ve also bought the same part a few months back and had the same issue on my Fire Mountain. I’ve adapted it like I’ve explained and it’s working very well.

That's a nice back box lock you have there

Any chance you could pull it out for a few pics and basic measurements?

You mean the one at top that holds the backglass in yeah? I could give it a look!

That would be awesome! Thanks!

I haven't been able to find a photo of one or any measurements and mine (and it seems several others) is missing. If it's not too complex, I may be able to model it in cad and see if it's possible to 3d print something strong enough to hold a cam lock in place.

Have a sound board triggering a game reset and sometimes blown fuse if anyone has any insights: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-magic-castle-sound-board-triggering-game-reset-and-blown-fuse#post-6997355

Is this what you are looking for? This is in my Farfalla and my Devil's Rider is missing one. Have been looking for one over a year now. Talked with CaptainNeo who has a number of Zaccaria machines and he stated that he also is missing a number of locks on his machines. So if you make a replacement count me in for one.

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Yep! Could you pull it out and take measurements along each dimension/length?

gianfri, just received email notification of the evo power board is in stock. Order placed.
Thanks
Dave

Dave, did you buy them all??? It says it's out of stock again. Gianfri, help! Is it an error?

They have lasted 2h :/

But they'll be back in August since I'm going off soon

I only bought one.

I guess you need better pics of inside as well?
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I'll try get better soon

Here you go, let me know if you need more.

I already PM him and took the lock out of my Farfalla and sent many pictures with measurements. Sorry, should have posted on this thread that we were in contact. Also he has already made a preliminary diagram.

Mike sent me a ton of great pics. Have a design that fits/works, and currently working on strength improvements and durability testing, including trying different material types.
PXL_20220628_034634013 (resized).jpgPXL_20220628_035147310 (resized).jpgPXL_20220628_035155732 (resized).jpg

If anyone is interested in beta testing the lock from above PM me. Thinking of building a handful to send out for test fit & function beyond Magic Castle for those that are missing locks.

Note that I'm still working through the finished look on it. Will be making the exposed piece have a radius to better fit the cut out on the lock side and have an idea to try for giving it a metallic finish on the exposed portion.

Count me in. I have a Devil Riders and a Farfalla can test it in.
Mike

I'll PM you -- want to confirm dimensions (or perhaps you can "dry fit" your lock you grabbed measurements from). Not sure how broadly they used this style of lock or how many versions of it there are.

Can anyone tell me what type of capacitor should be in C32 and C57 on a Clown (or equivalent) sound board? 1uf, but polarized or not? The capacitors on my Clown look to be polarized but they're the only caps on the board that do not have a + marking on the board.

Comparatively, the main board on Spooky appears to essentially be the same board. It has unpolarized 1uf capacitors in these spaces.

My Devil Riders is missing the entire lock/bracket. Would like to get one if possible.
Thanks

Will PM you

Note that my goal is to make something strong that can hold the backglass in place during transport, etc., and look nice. Not planning on designing/testing against vandalism, theft, etc. Hoping that's where most other folks are with it for their needs as well.

Current iteration of the piece is surprisingly strong with some creative printing/reinforcement/tweaks. I was pulling up on the glass about as hard as I could and it wouldn't budge. I also tried ramming it repeatedly with the backglass and the bracket held strong.

First couple of iterations I made eventually fell apart when I applied these kinds of forces so it feels like I've made good progress and can focus more on cosmetics now.

The schematic shows them as polarised, but I would personally use non-polarised because they're a series path in the audio signal.

I confirm that all the second generation pinball machines have this mechanism plus the later production of the locomotion.

It's a nice idea to produce such a lock.

Thanks for confirming!

The lock on at least Spooky, which has a smaller overall cabinet design, is located on top of the head.

Quench would one of these work? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kyocera-AVX/TAP105M050BRW?qs=NORa6xUSEah%2F24tT0kwuxQ%3D%3D

This seems to be more in line for the style on Spooky.

90FF315D-75AD-42A0-BD5C-BE70F01C386C.jpegEF656148-168C-4BAD-9FA9-909A3FED12BE.jpeg

The Spooky caps are polarised tantalums. I see the + symbol on the body near the positive leg.

Yes, however there's zero in stock with a long back order.
Any other 1uF 35V or higher Tantalum cap will do.

Interesting. Do you have a photo of the lock? Any idea how many gen 2s used this smaller cabinet design?

Thanks -- my brother happened to have one of those tantalum caps I linked. Only one though! I'll find some alternates.

Be happy to test the lock out. I have nine 2nd gen Zac pins.

Thanks! PM sent

Can't get access to my pins ATM, does anyone know what fuse is used in the bottom of the cabinet for the GI? It's for locomotion gen 1

I think it's a 10A and the other one is a 1.6A all FAST BLOW

Thank you so much

Few different candidate finishes. Thoughts?

1:
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2:
PXL_20220705_150831436.MP.jpgPXL_20220705_151023094.MP.jpg

3:
PXL_20220704_014050891.jpgPXL_20220704_014034279.MP.jpgPXL_20220702_023153170.MP.jpgPXL_20220702_023208203.MP.jpg

All 3 side-by-side:
PXL_20220705_225105974.MP.jpg
PXL_20220705_225057342.MP.jpg

Both look good to me. I'd take either style.