Thanks for this, something odd going on with mine then!
Although maybe the station noise is correct.
I'd appreciate if someone could do a small video of the station noise, I know it's hard to get.

Here's what happens when I get stations

mine does the train stop, but it depends on the DIP settings on your sound board if you want different sounds. That hiss sound it did when the ball drained, is what mine does at each station.

It was fine for most of yesterday then started doing it in attract again.

While checking the roms and memory were in snuggly one broke a leg.

Any idea how to replace this?

20220418_150124 (resized).jpg
20220418_150129 (resized).jpg

If you didn't leave the pin inside the socket you can try to solder a piece of hard wire or a pin/lead from another component on the broken leg.

Oof, getting that broken leg out of the socket is going to be the tricky part, because this one specific scenario might be the only time "machine pin" sockets really suck compared to traditional "wiper" sockets. Because on wiper sockets you can sometimes squeeze/deflect/finagle the wipers to extract the broken leg and go from there - I've done so myself without having to replace the socket. Whereas here I think your only recourse is to replace the socket. Now you might be able to just clip out and replace that pin: cut the plastic away on both sides, remove the plugged pinsock, and replace with a single new pinsock.

As for the IC, it's possible to reuse it as gianfri stated, by carefully attaching an intact leg to the remnant on the chip. You'll need to do so if you want to test that IC elsewhere.

If you are really desperate, you could perhaps solder a wire to that broken leg/socket pin, and then attach that same wire to the IC stub. That strays the line of "hack" but if done well / for testing purposes there's no reason that couldn't work indefinitely.

The receptors in the machine socket you buy these days can actually be pressed out (upwards) and replaced using a receptor from another socket. Might work here too without replacing the whole socket by just unsoldering that single receptor.

Just for future reference, Tayda actually sells spare receptors.
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/dip-sockets/pin-terminal-4-clip-contact-for-round-hole-socket.html

you are going to have to dig that pin out of the socket. Maybe tweezers?

I got it out easier than expected and managed to solder the leg back on. All good

Just my unwanted noise issue has been worse the past day and no clue why. Still at a loss with this. Tried so many things.

I'm going to send the sound board to someone who has diagnostic equipment that should make it easier to find the issue. That's if it is the soundboard. I'm worried it's something else and he'll find no faults

So far I've tried
Unplugging sound board ribbon (noise stops but that's obvious?)
Replaced all caps and a few transistors on soundboard
Adjusted the volume pot on soundboard
Clipped various resistors on soundboard to see if they stop the noise, but it doesn't seem to be attached to any particular effect so it did nothing
Tried different sound banks using dip switch
Unplugged ribbon cables from displays incase they are causing interference
Reseated the ribbon cables to sound and displays
Turned volume pot down low ( noise still comes through)
Disconnected all connectors from the interface board incase its something on the playfield

There must be a faulty component on the board but, you didn't replace the Sound Board eprom, it's an easy one, 2716, why don't you try that?

Could this be a bad MF10 IC?

Gen 1s use the mf10s as well?

I dont know, it was listed as a problem on zaccaria sound boards for noisey sounds.

no

I wouldn't have known to, my first Zac and I've only owned pins for nearly two years now so I'm still learning.
All the advice I've got has been the things I've checked so far.

Is that on the soundboard or is it with the other ROMs?
Could a faulty ROM cause it to be so intermittent and ok once in gameplay?

I'm about to send the soundboard off to someone who's experienced with Zacs over here. He's tried helping me for a few weeks but at a loss. If it's definitely the soundboard hopefully he'll find an issue but i worry it's on another board .

The Sound rom is on the sound board.
it could be but I would be more keen in thinking that there could be a faulty IC which decodes the different signals.

Are you sure? I've posted the board now so can't check but I don't recall a ROM.

Is it 2716 in middle of this diagram?
Screenshot_20220420-155701_Drive (resized).jpg

The Round ROM is on the sound board.

Yes
the 2716 eprom

Dave, noticed you have already tried removing the ribbon cable. Did this make any difference at all to the noise? Or if you move the ribbon cable as far away as possible from the board, did it help.

I had a set of Locomotion boards in for repair last year and noticed that I couldn't have my test display too close while testing otherwise it would induce some noise but nothing like what you are getting.

Any luck sourcing one of these locks? Picked up a Magic Castle -- haven't unwrapped it yet, but was told the bg lock is missing.

Never did yet. Have been working with a Pinsider that had stripped a Devil Riders and gave him a list of parts I wanted that included the lock. He is very slow with communication and still waiting for a reply.

Bummer

I'll have to see what I'm working with when I get it unwrapped. Maybe I have the housing, but it's just missing the lock itself. Worst case, perhaps I could design and 3d print something.

Have talked/texted with CaptionNeo who has many Zaccaria machines. He told me about 1/2 of his are missing the head bracket and lock. I guess many had got lost over the years. It's a very unique lock and bracket.

20210316_142915 (resized).jpg

Definitely. Looks like they were trying to maximize security by putting the screws behind the glass. Anyone ever pull the bracket out to take measurements/photos?

yeah, I don't have extra lock brackets. It's basically a U shaped plate, with a slot cut into it, so the lock can swing over to hold the glass in.

Hi all, if anyone is looking to mix up or trade out their Zac collection, I have my Devil Riders on offer. Preferably in trade for another Zac; projects considered/OK.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-trade-zaccaria-devil-riders#post-6931997

My locomotion sound issue has been solved, finally.
A dodgy IC on the soundboard apparently!

In other news the Zaccaria bug has bitten as I'm now getting a Space Shuttle to sit next to locomotion

Never played one but it looks to have a more interesting layout than Loco

20220521_123554 (resized).jpg

The two left digits don't work at all. I've swapped it into different display boards so it's definitely this display at fault.

Anything I can do or do I have to replace it?

You can swap the two digit modules if you have another partially faulty display and get one working out of two.
If you don’t have one, you pretty much have to buy a new LED replacement.

I swapped one in from the credit display (thinking I wouldn't need that as it's freeplay, that was a mistake).

It worked for a bit but was pink... Then it died.
So I have two dead modules now.
Siiiigh

The displays from Gianfri are the best : https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/6-digits-zaccaria-led-displays/
Shipping is also the fastest I've come across in the pinball business and support is awesome.
Highly recommended.

I bought the display kits from pinball solutions. I couldnt be happier, they were fun to build and work perfectly.

I ordered two

I assume theres instructions showing where the components go?

The instructions are very good.

I would replace all 5 them with the new ones to get off the 170v high voltage line.

Im not sure if you can mix and match them in the same circuit, probably not advised.

plus they will match.

You can mix and match. Nothing wrong with that.

Thats really good to know!

So you got the Locomtion I picked up the Robot on pininfo, my first Zac as well

20220513_174450 (resized).jpg

My next Zac! It's stunning!

I can't take the backglass out for some reason. Any tips?

Also is there an English manual anywhere? Ive checked ipd

20220523_125611 (resized).jpg

Having a really hard time getting the spinner to activate without activating on vibration! any tips?

just swap it from another one that is bad. I had some bad display boards like this, and marked the bad ones with an X, so the glass can be swapped out and in. I sell them for $10 for glass with 1 glass section outgassed. but shipping to you would cost a fortune.

maybe because your backglass is taped in. once you take all 3 pieces of tape off. wiggle it from the lift channel, because the top is catching on something.

That was an earlier photo, I have tried wiggling, it's crazy how tight it feels in there

Seems my spinner is missing this plastic part ‍♂️.

Any ideas if I can still get one?

Is it this one ? https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/colonnetta-a-7196-zaccaria/

Did you check the file?
The Zaccaria manuals often come in four languages.
English is in the second part of the "Italian" manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3263

Typical! I ordered led displays from them a couple days ago. I will try get it added to my order.
But for now I managed to bend the spinner arm and it works well.

Yeah later realised this. The file name said Italian and I thought that meant it was the Italian manual.

Confirmed my backbox assembly is missing. Perhaps I could draw something up in cad for 3d printing. Does anyone have photos and/or dimensions of an original?

Hello everyone, looks like I was absent too long these days, I missed some nice messages
I just can't manage all the things I have to do, I apologize to the ones who were waiting for a reply from me.

Always nice of you.

Regarding the old plasma displays, be careful when you remove them from a support to replace a dead one because they do not like this operation and if you apply too much heat while de-soldering them you reduce their life.

Be careful because contrarily to the G2 machines, the G1 backglasses are blocked by to sliding locks which are forced to closed position when the door is closed.
In order to unlock the back glass you need to open the headbox door and pull the two locks out (from the inside) and then you'll be able to remove the glass.

Did you fix the problem with the spinner?