Spooky doesnt bother me, Its the Clowns one that is freaky as sh@t and disturbs me a lot...

My creepy trio
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it is also coincidentally the 1-year anniversary of my Clown acquisition. Such a fun game!

I have a clown in very bad conditions to restore and a Magic castle in good conditions to restore.
I miss and probably never have a Spooky

Glad to see it in the hands of an appreciator with time to work on it. Was gonna be a long time before I ever got around to giving it the care it needed. Looking forward to seeing its transformation in your hands

Will post updates on it and my other ones as the process of refurbishing happens.

Frisbez - you rock! I got the 3081 replacement chips, put one in, held my breath and poof! It worked! Very happy. I obviously had to go through the reprogramming steps but once I did that, the game came to life. It’s not perfect by any means yet but a huge step in the right direction! Thanks so much! When I took the old chip out, I can see evidence of it being cooked.

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Hey @gianfri, any chance of selling the power board again? I could REALLY use one. I posted this a while back, and got no reply.

Please advise,
Thanks,
FJ

Hello, I have the last board in stock which is already reserved and we are working on the Rev B which should be available by end of the year.

Can you wait?

No way! So there will be replacement power supplies available from Pinball Solutions??

I have been considering trading my Alvin G. Punchy The Clown for a Zacc Clown project, or selling Punchy to fund getting a clown. Anyone have a Clown that isn't at it's best? I'm really loving bringing these Zaccarias back from the dead! I'll be even happier if BG Resto actually ever sends me the new glass for Soccer Kings. I haven't heard from Stephen in almost a month.

Congrats on getting Locomotion up and running! I know it's an incredible feeling when the machine roars to life!

gianfri yes, I can wait. You say "end of the year", which is only about ~6 weeks. Let me know if there is any way I can get on a waiting list, or even pre-pay, or what I need to do to get the board in my hands the earliest possible.

Thanks,
FJ

As soon as I have them produced I will publish a message here

No need to pre-pay.

shit happens!!!

Did everybody see this one come up? I like seeing machines go to collectors instead of local flippers, so here's a deal: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/124232

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Does anybody have a flipper coil plunger that would work on Soccer Kings? My game's missing one and I chose to make it a harder difficulty by stealing the one from the right upper flipper nearest the shooter wireform. The one that was missing was for the attack zone flipper.

I also think I have the last issue with the game's functionality pinned down. So after you sink the ball in the attack zone(score or miss) the sound loop continues to play for about 30-40 seconds before the announcer screams "Watch the goalie!" and the machine spits the ball out of the lower elevator kickout. This coupled with the attack zone flipper always flipping during a game makes me think that there is a drain switch in the trough behind the attack zone that's not being met. I had thought they were separate issues before but all my voltages seem to be correct so I don't think a low voltage issue is causing the flipper to stutter. I think the CPU is trying to get the ball out of the attack zone because the attack zone drain switch has not been met, and it has a timer and automatically spits the lower ball out for you to continue your game even if it can never get the upper ball into the attack zone goal drain.

I've been trying to switch to English sound ROMs on my Time Machine for months. Marco's and Action Pinball's ROMS have proven useless. I don't know how many times my German ROMS can take removal and re-installation.

I downoaded sound ROMS from david's site and had astil gaming burn them for me.

Make sure you get the right ones

I am working on a Shooting the Rapids project. I need a system one/gen one driver board and am also looking for a pop bumper cap. I reached out to David but don't think he is doing much anymore with Zaccaria repairs/parts.

Thanks,

Both sets were marked "Time Machine" then "1D", "2E", and "3G". Installed properly. The Marco's units produced terrible racket. The Action Pinball units have a few working phrases but they run very slowly. "aaaaaaannnnnnnnnd nnnnnnnoooooooooowwwwwwww wwwweeeeeeeeeee sssssstaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrt" The original units work perfectly every time I put them back in. I have had someone who knows German come and listen and they said it is mostly nonsense. Between that and not being able to understand German, I've decided to go ahead and swap to English ROMs.

I'm not really happy about being out $120 for some scrap electronics.

I switched my Farfalla for Italian ROMs that I had Astil burn for me.

It was perfect, now Pinballgoddess repeats the italian call outs....!

The only think Im working on is that some call outs are covered up or shortened by system sounds that happen at the same time.

Evidently the data channel only has room for one thing at a time.

Assuming you have the 1B11136/0 sound board. There should be a potentiometer at P4 that can adjust the speed/pitch of the speech. P4 is in the top right corner. Sounds like the Action Pinball ROMs might work and just need that adjusted.

I'm finishing the restoring works on my Farfalla and one of the problems is related to the sound board.
First time it happens to me but I have replaced the sound eproms and I'm having very strange behaviors.

I need to better investigate to understand where the problem is. It looks like that sound eproms are tricky.

I would like to ask the ones with a Farfalla if they experience problems sending the ball on the upper playfield.
I have the impression that the right lower flipper doesn't have enough force to push the ball up the ramp but I would like to get some other experiences.

thanks

Its a tough shot but works pretty good on a clean hit.

Rejects from the ramp are somewhat normal

I replaced the flipper switches, rebuilt the flipper mechs, replaced the incorrect coils and cleaned up everything and its a bit better.

My friend keeps saying that my Time Machine flipper is weak. I keep saying that Zaccaria ramps are just a challenge. How difficult is the Time Bridge for any of you guys?

Why is it perfectly set for the original German ROMs, but so far off that it sounds like something from Space Invaders with the new ones? Is P4 for voice only? I have major issues with the music and sounds as well.

yes, it's regulates the speeches speed only. It operates on the TMS5220

The fact that I'm having troubles with my Farfalla sound eproms is confusing me, I need to understand if it's the board then I can give you my opinion.

Regarding the Time Machine, if I target correctly the ramp, it generally goes all around the ramp otherwise it happens that the ball comes back.

I have seen that the flipper mechanism was missing the lock between the plastic harm and the metallic piston, I have put it and it looks a bit better but still, I have a ratio of 2/3 failures in sending the ball up.

I have already cleaned and replaced the flipper button contact.

I will replace the coil just for fun, I will see.

So I happened to notice when I had Time Machine in test mode that the speech sounds start first in the sound test when running the new ROMs. With the original ROMs installed, the sound effects start first. Could Action Pinball have mismarked the two larger chips?

I bet it's in better shape than my locomotion was when I got it. If you never seen mine, I have a restoration thread on here, called Locomotion, a zaccaria love story.

Any luck in finding a repair for your insert? I have the same problem...

Eprom1 and 3 are the same model while eprom2 is a 2532 so you can try to swap 1 with 3, doesn't harm anything.

I need some advice on how to diagnose & fix a problem with Space Shuttle. The top hole either doesn't work or the ejection is too weak for the ball to get out. I did a resistance & inductance test on the coil, and it seemed to be OK. I have a Williams brand coil I could replace it with - and I suppose that I should just replace it just to take one possible failure mode out of the equation. But if I still have this problem, how should I try to diagnose a problem on the board? If it's a bad transistor or resistor, I could replace it, but I don't know what I am doing when trying to diagnose ICs, so I would just order up a new board (probably get a new MPU while I am at it).

If the coil works but it’s weak perhaps it’s binding. I’d check the physical mechanism. Perhaps the sleeve is worn and the plunger is dragging. Coils heat up and bind too around the sleeve. Might have to replace the sleeve or coil.

It was me! Farfalla finally showed up today, very happy to have her here.

Tried booting up quick, and has a few issues. Can add credits but not start a game. So I ran tests quick...displays: good. Switches: good. Lamp test: nada. Solenoid test: nada.

Checked the incoming voltage to the power board, and the green and white wires at CN1 are showing 0V. So I guess I'll start there. I'll take a look at the connector and the board, but seems like maybe an issue at the transformer?

In any case, super excited to be here. My first Zac.

I don't agree on replacing the CPU nor the driver board.

If you just have a coil problem I would concentrate on that.

As said before, you should be sure you don't have a mechanism problem, I had something similar on the ball launcher at out hole, a bit of WD40 on the mechanism and the problem was solved.

You may also have a bad transistor, replacing it is something easy, testing the resistor as well.
Nothing can be defective behind the darlington if you have just that coil problem so I would not waste your time checking the driver board ICs.

Check the coil and the mechanism first

You clearly have a problem on the outputs.

Verify also if you have the 5v on the driver board

Yeah. I will give those a peek tomorrow.

I saw some of the replacement boards that you make on the pinballsolutions website, they look interesting.

Also, this is fun!:

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I mean, if it works...

Here's a dumb question...I was checking fuses in my game, and when I pulled the front fuse out of the transformer, I didn't make note of how the plug was situated in the socket. I assumed it gets plugged in with the pin going into the 115V hole, but wasn't sure since I failed to notice. Is it not the 115v option for some reason? (I am in USA).

I replaced my CPU board with the gianfri pinballsolutions.eu one.

I can not be happier!

Rock solid build, free play option built in, coin battery, exceptional support...

Solved all of my concerns immediately!

I even went a step further and bought the matching driver board and the replacement display boards.

The display boards were really fun to build and look FANTASTIC!

Getting the displays off the 170v circuit is a super improvement.

115v is correct.

Cool, glad to hear. I am considering upgrading to the new board(s) as well. Seems like an easy way to keep things rolling smooth for a long time. Once I can get my game fully trouble-shot, we'll see how dire the situation is...and maybe I'll have to buy one sooner rather than later

that's really impressive, if it works

Andrew also has a nice solution for this obsolete CA3081.
https://nvram.weebly.com/transistors.html

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ca3081-replacements-with-discreet-transistors#post-3266832

I can confirm these worked to resurrect one of my Spooky’s

Oh sweet, I am going to order one of those up. Thanks for the links!

** And an update on my power driver issue:

I confirmed everything tied back to the transformer properly, so took the board out and did some closer examination. The fuses checked good, but some of the clips seemed suspect, so I replaced them across the board. I also reflowed solder on the CN1 header. Several of the resistors were also testing strangely. So far I've only replaced the R1 resistor. Now she boots up and plays/tests normally! Next one to go might be that piggy-backed resistor at R5

There are a few bulbs out, and a couple finicky drop targets but we'll get that sorted. I'll give it some more plays and search out other bugs before we dive deep into a shop job

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Once you build and install the awesome replacement LED displays, you can pull the fuse and never use the high voltage section again.

My high volatege section caught fire lol, but since its not used any more, I just clipped off all the components after installing the new displays.