(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by pinballinreno
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There are 2451 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 50.
#2301 7 months ago

make sure the wires are connected to the switch on the coin door. Should be a toggle switch that has a spring in it.

Are the displays missing the same digits when it was reversed?

#2302 7 months ago

The toggle switch is connected with three wires. Haven't checked continuity back to the board - not sure where it connects.

Yes, same digits missing when wiring is reversed.

#2303 7 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

The toggle switch is connected with three wires. Haven't checked continuity back to the board - not sure where it connects.
Yes, same digits missing when wiring is reversed.

and the same segments are missing on all 5 displays?

#2304 7 months ago

Yes, same segments missing on all displays.

#2305 7 months ago

then it's on the MPU board. The signal for that segment isn't getting sent out to the ribbon cable.

#2306 7 months ago

Hi everyone. I have had my Pinball Champ 82 for a short while and decided to try headphones out of curiosity. The sound did not transfer to the headphones. I have posted some pics of the pot and socket wiring to see if anyone can let me know if all looks correct. TIA.

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1 week later
#2307 7 months ago

My farfalla cuts off the the last words on a callout.

The guy says "that's not only bad.."

Instead of bad luck.

I fiddled with the speed control but it makes the voices high pitched.

Can i fix this?

Also I'm still looking for a green lady Euro insert for my game.

#2308 7 months ago

there are several adjustment pots. One is for pitch, other is for speed of the voices. Adjust the other one. One of my says, it's not only bad, as well I like it like that so i leave it.

#2309 7 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

there are several adjustment pots. One is for pitch, other is for speed of the voices. Adjust the other one. One of my says, it's not only bad, as well I like it like that so i leave it.

Ill take another look, thanks!

#2310 7 months ago

I got my prototype power supply from gianfri along with a bunch of other goodies I ordered from him on friday. Put the powersupply in Pinball Champ yesterday and my flipper problem seems to be solved. So the relays on the original board are definitely dead I think. I need to fix the coindoor wiring and hopefully that's all that's left.

I really like the new power supply. Lots of diagnostic lights on it. Will save lots of time troubleshooting things

#2311 7 months ago

So working on my Farfalla. I ordered flippers from Seigcraft but need two flipper caps. Anyone have a line on where I might find a couple of flipper caps?

Will other flippers work on Zaccaria as a substitute?

#2312 7 months ago

yes, you can use standard flippers. I have some that I have normal flipper bats on. I think you need the thicker gottlieb style shafts.

#2313 7 months ago

I haven't had much feedback on the flipper bats, I'd love to hear how well they work, good or bad.

I MAY be offering caps in the near future, I'm just so backlogged I haven't had a chance to develop a reliable process for the new printer yet.

-Hans

#2315 6 months ago

Thanks.

I decided to buy a replacement CPU from pinball solutions so may have an original board for sale soon once David returns it. I am trying to trouble shoot the right outlane flipper. The outlane light is activated and the rollover registers but the flipper still does not work. On a bally or williams I would suspect one of the transistors on the driver board but looking at the schematics it appears the same transistor controls the main flipper and the outhole flipper. Since the main flipper works that doesn't appear to be the problem.

#2316 6 months ago

Got the outlane flipper working by readjusting EOS switches and filing them slightly, but the flipper flutters. Is this the coil? Disconnected wire on the coil?

#2317 6 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Got the outlane flipper working by readjusting EOS switches and filing them slightly, but the flipper flutters. Is this the coil? Disconnected wire on the coil?

Could be a bad coil with a broken wire on it or loose diode.

#2318 6 months ago

Got the flipper going. It was the small wire coming from the coil not connected good.

Now I have two pop bumper lights not working ones connect with red white wire - odd. power at the lamp socket. It is pop 1 lamps that are not working. Last thing to fix.

1 week later
#2319 6 months ago

Pop bumper 1 lights still not working. I replaced the bayonet sockets, double checked all solder to make sure there is not a short, have continuity from the board to the sockets, and grounding of SCR73 turns on the lights. Here is something odd, a led light will work - constantly on - in either socket, but if I place a bulb in the second socket it goes out. A 44 bulb in one socket will barley notice a constant orange on the filament, place a second bulb in the other socket it goes out.

#2320 6 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Pop bumper 1 lights still not working. I replaced the bayonet sockets, double checked all solder to make sure there is not a short, have continuity from the board to the sockets, and grounding of SCR73 turns on the lights. Here is something odd, a led light will work - constantly on - in either socket, but if I place a bulb in the second socket it goes out. A 44 bulb in one socket will barley notice a constant orange on the filament, place a second bulb in the other socket it goes out.

That just indicates you have low current to the socket. Double check all solder joints for a strong connection and make sure the connectors are all seated properly.

#2321 6 months ago

I thought the same initially, low current. However, the current coming to these lamps also originates at the same place as the current to one of the other pops which works perfectly. Disconnected and resolder connections with no change.

#2322 6 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Pop bumper 1 lights still not working. I replaced the bayonet sockets, double checked all solder to make sure there is not a short, have continuity from the board to the sockets, and grounding of SCR73 turns on the lights. Here is something odd, a led light will work - constantly on - in either socket, but if I place a bulb in the second socket it goes out. A 44 bulb in one socket will barley notice a constant orange on the filament, place a second bulb in the other socket it goes out.

Thought I would give an update - bad scr controlling those two pop lights. Replaced and now working.

Another quick question for the club. When I set sw4 on the mpu for test/setup the game rings like it is supposed to when turned on. The test advance switch in the coin door does nothing. I would not think it common for those switches to go bad. Anything else I should check?

#2323 6 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Thought I would give an update - bad scr controlling those two pop lights. Replaced and now working.
Another quick question for the club. When I set sw4 on the mpu for test/setup the game rings like it is supposed to when turned on. The test advance switch in the coin door does nothing. I would not think it common for those switches to go bad. Anything else I should check?

is it wired right?

#2324 6 months ago

Center wire on switch connected to nothing - someone had tucked it behind one of the coin mechs so could not see that it.

There are two similar white wires - one connected to the coin mech and the other end is cut and a second cut white wire that travels into the cabinet.

UPDATE - several wires in coin door were cut and tucked away. Reconnected and everything is working. Terrific pin!

Quick question. The pf is really beautiful. I waxed it a couple of times during tear down. What else are folks doing to protect the pf?

#2325 6 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Center wire on switch connected to nothing - someone had tucked it behind one of the coin mechs so could not see that it.
There are two similar white wires - one connected to the coin mech and the other end is cut and a second cut white wire that travels into the cabinet.
UPDATE - several wires in coin door were cut and tucked away. Reconnected and everything is working. Terrific pin!
Quick question. The pf is really beautiful. I waxed it a couple of times during tear down. What else are folks doing to protect the pf?

Zac playfileds are super durable and unless water/humidity damaged, seem to hold up really well as-is with waxing.

My Farfalla was pretty beat and missing the neon etc. But with a little TLC its become a really nice game.

Im still looking for a Green Lady Euro insert that's better than mine to finish up the backbox, before swapping out the playfield.

#2326 6 months ago

Why on earth is it so common for Zac coin door wires to be cut up? I swear all but one or two of the 9 Zacs my brother and I have had the coin door wires hacked up.

#2327 6 months ago

The coin door wires were connected, but their cut ends were tucked to look like they were attached. The test switch wire was tucked in to look connected. Turns out, none were connected - all had been cut.

#2328 6 months ago

Hello Zaccaria owners, I recently purchased a Devil Riders pinball machine. It's missing the metal lock/bracket for the head back glass. Do any of you have a spare you would sell me? Note: picture is of my Farfalla showing what I need.
Let me know,
Thanks Mike

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1 week later
#2329 6 months ago

Gday, Zacc members. I'm looking at replacing the flipper coils on my Clown machine. I don't have a manual for this one and cant see any info on the two flipper coils originally used. My two coils have been replaced in the past at some stage and are preforming week.

I'm a newbie pinside, looking for some help.

2 weeks later
#2330 5 months ago

all gen 2 zacs use the same flipper coil. I think it's a 50-600 14-5000

#2331 5 months ago

Picked up a Shooting the Rapids. PF is a 10, cabinet very nice, BG very good but top left corner around player 1 display is broken and missing. A couple of plastics missing as well.

Any chance of me finding a BG and plastics or should I part the machine out? Would like to save if possible.

#2332 5 months ago

most zac playfields are nice because they were clearcoated from the factory. See if BG resto has shooting the rapids on file. He may. As far as plastics. I do not have any for that game in stock.

#2333 5 months ago

BGrestro can indeed make me a new bg which is awesome. Plastics might be harder to find. I also need a gen 1 sound board and driver board for this one.

#2334 5 months ago

I have untested Gen1 driver boards. I don't think I have sound boards. Might want to make sure you can get the cosmetic parts first to make sure you can make a complete game before jumping in on everything else.

#2335 5 months ago

Hello Zaccaria Owners, I am new to this forum, I have a Devil Riders, it’s in really nice shape, the previous (Italian) owner completely refurbished it but it’s having programming trouble, I posted some of my questions on the early solid state topic.
It still has the Italian sound board btw ! I live in the Netherlands so no clue what it’s saying except for the ‘Ciao, come stai ?’ Hope to get some help here get it running again ! Thanks, Gus
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#2336 5 months ago

what do you mean by programming trouble? like you can't get it to take settings?

#2337 5 months ago

btw, that NVram you have on your board. doesn't work. creates random glitches and lockups. You need to get rid of it. and put normal ram back in, or Brinks NVchip.

#2338 5 months ago

Thanks Captain Neo, the machine is ‘all over the place’ it doesn’t hold credits, gives random points or stops in the middle of a game, in other words it cannot be played.
By programming I mean all the 37 settings, it will only go to #20 and no further. I was informed you always need to go trough all 37 settings after the boards were removed or such.

The boards were checked and repaired/tested by a pinball repair shop but you’re right on the random glitches, maybe they messed up.

#2340 5 months ago

yup, that purple chip needs to come out and be replaced with the normal ram. You will never solve any issues until that is fixed first.

#2341 5 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I have untested Gen1 driver boards. I don't think I have sound boards. Might want to make sure you can get the cosmetic parts first to make sure you can make a complete game before jumping in on everything else.

All plastics there except for one pop bumper cap. Thinking scan one of the the other caps and make a water slide decal for a solid color gottlieb. Now need to find the boards - mpu, driver, sound, and psu.

#2342 5 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:yup, that purple chip needs to come out and be replaced with the normal ram. You will never solve any issues until that is fixed first.

Neo, I'm not sure the problem is related to the use of the NVRAM but could be something else.
I have suggested evel-rider to remove the NVRAM and place it back on the socket, there could be a contact problem
or
the NVRAM is just defect.

The defect he has doesn't correspond to the problems you had with the other NVRAMs

#2343 5 months ago

well, the NVrams that only use one side of the ram, always creates random problems. random switches, lock ups, coil lock ons, and random shit in general. They do not work and are unpredictable. He needs to fix that first, and then troubleshoot from there. Or he's just going to be chasing his tail.

#2344 5 months ago

Neo, Gianfri, I will check the NVRAM this evening, the machine does have problems as I stated in my first post, it’s ‘all over the place’ doesn’t hold credits, locks up during play, gives random points etc etc, it’s just acting crazy. The second thing is; I assumed this was related to the previous owner maybe didn’t set all 37 settings properly and I figured I’ll start doing that. But I only got to #20 (no. of balls) and can not proceed with #21 up to #37.

But I’ll leave that for now and start with checking the NVRAM tonight. I will post my findings later, thanks for the help.

#2345 5 months ago

yes, i read the problems, and i've had all those problems because of THAT specific NVram that you are using.

#2346 5 months ago

I also had all those same problems in one of my games. We removed the NVRAM and it was resolved.

#2347 5 months ago

From my side this is the first time I hear about such behavior with my NVRAMs so I'm very interested to know if it's just a defective part.

I use them in my machines and I have lots of customers using them in their machines and nobody ever reported anything.

I wonder if this may be caused by bad contact, bad socket or broken solder pad.
Wait and see

In any case, if it's a general problem of the NVRAM I will not hesitate removing them from the catalogue.

#2348 5 months ago

the problem is, that Zaccaria uses 2 rams together as a team. if you only use one ram, it causes glitches everywhere. Both the socketed and non socketed rams have to be replaced with one chip. I've never had a brinks cause errors.

#2349 5 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

All plastics there except for one pop bumper cap. Thinking scan one of the the other caps and make a water slide decal for a solid color gottlieb. Now need to find the boards - mpu, driver, sound, and psu.

I think I have everything sourced except for a gen 1 soundboard. Anyone have a lead on one? Picked the pin up Satruday. PF is excellent, plastics all excellent. Apparently it originally came from Germany as coin slots show DM and placards are in German. Really want to save this one if possible.

#2350 5 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I think I have everything sourced except for a gen 1 soundboard. Anyone have a lead on one? Picked the pin up Satruday. PF is excellent, plastics all excellent. Apparently it originally came from Germany as coin slots show DM and placards are in German. Really want to save this one if possible.

You need to specify that the sound card must be the 1B1125 model

There are 2451 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 50.

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