Working on refurbishing my Farfalla coin door. Here is a before and the during process of taking everything appart. Should be able to finish it up tomorrow and post finished pictures. She looking good!

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Congratulations on your new Magic Castle. It's the next one on my list I would like to acquire.
Just finishing my Farfalla, good luck on the progress. One thing you might consider is the posts behind the blue and orange drop targets get hammered quite a bit. Some of mine were completely destroyed, I changed mine out to double blue and double orange to help with eliminating further damage.

Here are a few pictures of the double posts.

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Finished my refurbished Farfalla coin door today. Looks good.

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The only thing I am still going to do is that the original decals that came off the door are in good shape yet and will take them to my print shop guy and have them reproduced. He has done this before many times for my Bally/Williams machines.

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Thanks for the suggestions and nice job on the door!

I have finished the playfield cleaning so I will soon start the assembly but unfortunately the playfield itself is quite in bad conditions and I don't have many options so I will leave it like it is.

Before:
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After:
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It looks like you cleaned the playfield up nicely. Overall it looks good.

Those planked areas might cover up with heavy clearcoat over them.
I have some similar issues on mine.

yes they can be buried in clear, but the problem is, you have to scuff the playfield before you can clear. the scuff process will probably sand off the peeks and create touchup areas on the peaks of the graining. Have to be very careful when prepping. If you do not scuff before clearing. You might as well throw the field away because you will get clear randomly separating from the original clear.

I was thinking the same.

I have had good success sticking down planks and peaks with a small amount medium CA glue and clamping down with pure teflon blocks.

vid1900 would know a lot more than me. lol.

Oddly it still sticks a tiny bit but removal by carefully twisting off other than pulling up was effective.

Scary movie!

I will leave it like it is as I'm not an expert in playfield or wood renovation and I don't want to make it worse.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Yep, its pretty scary stuff.

Coming back to the Zaccaria Power board.

Here I have made a new video of the working RevA board, the evolution of the prototype board I used before.

All looks ok.

The main doubts remain on the Heat Sink for the big rectifiers which is still not defined as final solution and the main problem of how to proceed with the headers for G1 and G2 cabling.

I'm ready to provide few boards for deep testing at discounted price but I'm not sure I could provide correct support to boards shipped overseas due to high shipping costs. So if someone is interested please PM me and we will try to find a way to handle it.

Regarding the headers, the main concern is that it is not a good idea to have both generation header installed together without a protection as one could touch them and shorts may be possible.
Both incoming and outgoing HV from CN1 and CN5 are quite nasty.

For the moment the two boards I have received have only been tested on G2 and only have G2 connectors so the problem is not visible, but as soon as you install the G1 right angle headers, those will be on the edge of the board in a scary position.
Any idea on how to solve this problem?

Should we only provide the board for G2 machines and eventually provide the G1 headers as complement to be soldered by the customer in case of need?

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pm sent

you could have a plastic slip on cover. Similar to the plastic covers that slip on USB and HDMI connectors. Have it for the pin side as well as the G1 side. Then the person can just slip off the cover of the one they are going to use. Or create a dummy plug, to plug in that side. Molex with only 2 or 3 pins in, that hold it in place but covers all the exposed pins.

I was thinking the same, a molex housing, good idea with the pins in.

Hello Zaccaria fans, I've been working on a Devil Riders for a friend and I've been running into an issue where the game consistently resets whenever I try to start a game.

For context on the game's repair history: It's recently had board repairs done and (in theory) the boards were in working shape when we got them back, but then a few playfield fuses and driver transistors blew due to coil wiring and diode issues. After fixing that, I was briefly able to play a full game in between instances where it'd randomly enter the coil/display tests mid-game, or occasionally continuously reset after exiting the test mode (one time it also fired several coils at once on each reset).

Right now, all the coils work fine in the coil test with no resets, and I went in and set all the game settings to be safe. I also measured a few test points on the power board (TP2: 12.55V, TP3: 5.78V, TP5: 40.5V, TP7: 4.94V), and the only one that immediately stood out to me was that TP4 rose from 4.8VDC in attract mode to 5.7VDC just before resetting. TP3/7 don't seem to change, I haven't measured TP1/TP6 yet.

Does anyone have any pointers on where to look next/what the culprit might be for this reset issue?

I might be in for a Farfalla power board.
However since mine caught on fire and I disabled the hi power circuit it seems to work fine.

If it works I'm generally not in favour to replace boards with new ones, I don't like selling boards just for selling them, I'm more into the mood:
let's sell them when there is no other option.

As soon as I finish the Farfalla restoration I'll try the power board there

I have got enough offers for testing the power board so for the moment I close the orders for this revision, I'll ship them out in the next weeks and get feedback before proceeding with a much bigger production.

Really thanks to all of you for the continuous support.

Gianfri

It's really difficult to help you on this issue but I give you two tracks to follow:

In some case, the reset circuit on the Power board can be faulty, this is managed by the LM339, 3 transistors and some other components, sometimes the CAP C9 is defective and needs to be replaces. It's the small 1uf next the rectifiers.

The Devil riders has a very dangerous contact lead next the the main flipper mechanisms that can get in contact with the metallic parts.
If the contact lead shorts there, you may damage the switch matrix circuit but from what you describe, the game works properly and only resets from time to time therefore I really don't think this may be the source of the problem.

I would therefore verify the power board and the 5v in order to be sure that it's in good conditions, you can try to replace the big 5v rectifier P2 and test the 10.000uf capacitor in order to verify that it is still in good shape.
Verify also that the Fuse clips are in good conditions.

enjoy!

I keep them on hand, when troubleshooting a new zac that comes in. That's why I like them. Especially the Mpu board because I didn't have to swap roms.

And you can set Free Play!

You are too spoiled!

all my zacs can be set to free play anyway, because they all have davids rom images in them.

Thanks for the fast response! I tried to do some poking around yesterday:

- I think I found the contacts near the flippers you were talking about, it looks like the previous owner put some electrical tape around it so it wouldn't short.

- I tried probing the 5V line with a meter a bit more thoroughly, it stays pretty solid at 5.7V (assumingly still in spec?) and doesn't seem to change much when resets happen. I'd like to mention again that the game consistently resets/acts strange whenever I try and start a game, though yesterday it's decided that "resetting" can also mean just locking up, among other things. Tripping the coin switch now also causes resets for some reason (but said switch works fine in the switch test, I've been using the service switch to start games up until now).

- I also tried probing the power supply's reset circuit's output with a meter and a logic probe. It seems like it sometimes goes low when a reset happens. I'll try replacing C9 to see if that changes anything, then potentially the other parts in the 5V circuit you mentioned failing that. Thanks again!

C9 can cause random resets

If the CPU reacts strangely depending on which contact is activated you may have a Switch Matrix problem, IC38 is most of the times the responsible.

just posted a Soccer Kings for sale. Fully working and ready to play and enjoy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109857

Hello, Zaccaria lovers .I have a problem with Soccer King. I bought a broken one, repaired the power supply and replaced the LED displays from Laszlo from Hungary .The machine takes a long time to run. It blinks 8-12 times to finally boot up .It was working perfectly well for many hours. After turning off the power, the lamps flash again and display how warm 6-8 times.I have already replaced some ICs with a reset circuit without improvement. Does anyone have an idea what the problem is?

acid damage on the MPU board? DId you repin and redo the headers on the bottom right PS board , bottom right corner? that plug has to be completely redone.

There was no acid demage, only the battery to be replaced, the power supply connector CN1 checked.
When I unplug the boot and plug it in, the " Power failure " 6 pin starts immediately .

Replace C9 from the power board if not done already.

Gianfri

All electrolytic capacitors replaced ,LM 339 also . If cut 6 "power failure " , same starting after 8-12 blinking . Same , if disconect all connectors from MPU without CN9 ,LED on MPU blinkig and after 8-12 times light ....

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Tried testing (but haven't gotten a chance to replace yet) C9, my multimeter reads it as .9uF. My meter isn't a super fancy cap tester in fairness, so I could try replacing C9 anyways. I'll keep troubleshooting IC38 in mind, I don't think I've noticed any other switch-specific issues yet aside from the coin switches (which oddly enough only reset the game in attract mode and not the test menus, and only occasionally cause resets after today).

After adding some wire loops to the test point holes on the power board and resetting the audits/settings, the game is back to just acting randomly when starting a game. Sometimes it'll reset, other times it'll enter the coil/display tests, and a few times fired several coils at once and blew a fuse. Another time it actually *did* start a game only to enter a coil test mid-game, while still allowing scoring/some game progression (video below). Audits in the test menu sometimes have garbage data and blank digits - maybe they're getting corrupted?

I'll keep poking around/look into actually replacing some parts. I think there's some low-level electronics demons haunting this game now.

It's not C9

must be the switch matrix which has a problem.
Can't help more unfortunately

Not ready to post a formal wanted ad but still looking for a robot if anyone is thinking of selling. Would trade almost anything (not the JJPs).

I've got a Devil Riders that has a weak motor that turns the motorcycle in the backbox. Any ideas on what motor I could use to replace it? Also any ideas on where or what flipper EOS switches I could use to replace the originals on the game? Much appreciated.

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Regarding the motor, are you sure is the motor itself or maybe the rubber which lost its elasticity?

just to double check

I don't have references unfortunately.

I did replace the rubber with a rubber ring but I do probably need to check to make sure it isn't slipping.

Looking for a source for the RAM at IC4 on the DevilRiders that remembermom and I are working on. Any suggestions?
Thanks

I am reviving a power supply from a Magic Castle for a friend and I need some advice on the two 10,000 uf, 16v filter caps. They each have four legs, which I have not seen before. Can they be replaced with a two-legged snap-in capacitor and if so, how would they be oriented on the board? Is the black stripe on the existing capacitor negative? Positive?

Also, regarding the 100 uf, 350v filter cap in the HV section; can it be replaced with a 150uf 350v cap that I have on hand for Bally power supplies? The HV sections appear to be very similar.

Thanks.

The two 10,000 uf 16v caps replacement I think this was answered previously in this thread on page 21 here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-pinball-owners-club-all-welcome/page/21#post-4488778. Its on a Farfalla, but the power supply I think are the same and/or similar.

Also changing out the 100 uf 350v to a 150 uf 350v should be OK too. I just know you can't go down in value, but up is OK.

Thanks.

Just picked up my first Zaccaria - a terrific looking Farfalla. It is awesome looking. A couple of quick questions for the group as this pin is completely foreign to me.

1) I cannot get it to go into test mode at all.

2) The sole red insert near the ramp is badly chipped. It is odd that these are not a solid red plastic. Can I replace with the an opaque insert of the same size.

3) one of the flipper bats was replaced with a solid black bat. I saw where seigcraft made replacement translucent bats for Zaccaria pins. Anyone used them?

4) The right outhole lane flipper is not working.

5) The third and fourth digits are missing on each display. Moved the display connectors around and no change so it is not display specific. Any thoughts? I am David Gersic said ship him the CPU and a display.

6) And, a general game question. The top yellow drop targets sometime reset and sometimes they do not. Is there a specific rule about when the targets reset, or do I have another issue to address.

Super stoked to be part of this unique pin owners group.

First welcome to the club! I too have not long ago joined this club too with a Farfalla. I have been repairing/refurbishing Bally/Williams machines since about 2004 when I really got into the hobby. Zaccaria machines are a bit of a different breed, but what I did since I was new to working on Zaccaria, I took the time to read through all the posts in this thread. I know there's alot of pages, but was worth my time as it helped me just get familiar with the games, issues that others had and some interesting quirks about them. Also I would watch a Farfalla in play on YouTube as this has also been helpful to me on diagnostic repairs.

1) You can get into the test/programing mode by switching the on/off SW4 on the CPU board. Once switched the machine with start beep, beep, beeping, then activate the momentary switch on the coin door to move through each test/program. Switch SW4 back when finished. Would also check out David Gersic Zaccaria web site found here: http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/ as there is alot of helpful information on the Zaccaria machines.
2) A number of mine inserts too are cracked, but not bad enough to replace. I have seen this on a number of pictures of Farfalla machines. It appears a common issue. I would just replace whichever way works best for you.
3) Never have bought from them, but I have not heard or seen if anyone else does replacement flipper bats, David did at one time, but has since sold out. Anyone else?
4)Would check connections to and from the coil, clean/replace coil sleeve, coil parts and make sure it moves freely. Also check out lane switch is working. Note: for this flipper to work, the lane light needs to be lit and you only get "one flip". Also can check if flipper works in the coil test mod.
5) Displays only work in sequence. That is you can't move the ribbon cable around to really test the displays. If you already talked to David, then I would follow his recommendations.
6) All targets reset at the beginning of each ball and/or if they are all dropped (each color bank) during ball in play with the exception on the last ball if the last ball is the timed ball. The drop targets stay down on whatever one's you hit until you take them all out (color) and/or if the ball ends and are reset on next ball in play.

Hope this helps answer some of your questions. Again welcome to the club and enjoy your new machine!......Mike

I love my farfalla!

I just need a replacement green lady backbox insert and I would be in heaven!

Mike,

Thank you for the welcome and advice. I too have worked on Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb EM and SS pins but this is a different bird. I have done what you suggested on the coil and no luck finding an issue thus far. I definitely have a target reset issue with the yellow targets. They will reset only once with the same ball in play. Once the targets are dropped a second time they don't reset.

Another fun pinball adventure!

Robert

you can replace with opaque if you want. Would give you the same effect.
David gersic makes replacement translucent bats if you need one. Since you are sending him boards anyway, buy one from him. I have used ones on hand as well that I sell.
Right lane outside flipper, might be the switch associated with that lane. Make sure that lane is lit, or the flipper won't work either. Make sure the switch sees the ball. Look at the wires on the coil. make sure those are solid as well. And the diodes on the switches are NOT 1N4004's like other games. so make sure someone didn't put one of those on the switch or your react flippers will be all over the place.
for the displays. Take the ribbon cable off of all the displays. Put the end that is normally on the last display (usually player 3), and put that on the MPU board. Put the side that is normally on the board, on one of the displays, and see if the problem goes away. If it does the ribbon cable is bad. David also sells those.

Since I bought all new led kits and new cables from david.

My display problems are gone permanently.

Plus no more 174v high voltage !

"or the displays. Take the ribbon cable off of all the displays. Put the end that is normally on the last display (usually player 3), and put that on the MPU board. Put the side that is normally on the board, on one of the displays, and see if the problem goes away. If it does the ribbon cable is bad."

This did not resolve the issue. Displays still missing digits. I guess I will send the board to David.

It also will not go into diagnostics. Fourth switch on cpu causes pin to beep but momentary switch on coin door does nothing.