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(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome


By SpOoKyRiDeS

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,157 posts
  • 238 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by CaptainNeo
  • Topic is favorited by 87 Pinsiders

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There are 2157 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 44.
#2101 30 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

both. I mixed between import and finding in the US.

I still need to open mine and start the restoring, no idea when

I have the following machines waiting for repair/restore:
Soccer Kings
Farfalla
Clown
Black Belt

Which one should I start first?

Here my freshly renovated Locomotion with LED bulbs in the playfield inserts:

Locomotion_LED (resized).jpg
#2102 29 days ago

do they flicker? every zac i've tried to LED the inserts do random flickers.

#2103 29 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

do they flicker? every zac i've tried to LED the inserts do random flickers.

I put all regular 2smd frosted sunlight on my farfalla. No flickers or ghosting.

Maybe use non-ghosting if they flicker, but i didnt on my game.

It seems just fine.

#2104 28 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

do they flicker? every zac i've tried to LED the inserts do random flickers.

Those ones no, I had a lot of problems before with pseudo pinball machines bulbs (a Chinese wholesale seller sent me some samples which were expensive and bad), but I finally found the right ones, they are 1 or 5 SMD LED bulbs.
Sold as pinball machines bulbs and they do not flicker.
They come from China and they are very cheap, 22$ for 100pcs (1 SMD bulbs)

I'm really satisfied because they are plug&play!

Of course, they need to be tested on a long run to see how reliable they are.

#2105 26 days ago

Newish Farfalla owner here. Does anyone know why the orange drop targets are stars and the rest are butterflies? I thought mine had just been dropped in as replacements from another game but I’ve seen pics of other games and they are the same. Seems odd...

#2106 26 days ago
Quoted from dluth:

Newish Farfalla owner here. Does anyone know why the orange drop targets are stars and the rest are butterflies? I thought mine had just been dropped in as replacements from another game but I’ve seen pics of other games and they are the same. Seems odd...

Yes I confirm, orange targets are stars.

#2107 25 days ago

Just completed a full set of Technoplay games today. For those that don't know. Technoplay was formed from Zaccaria. It's still in business today, and still ran by 2 of the zaccaria brothers. Scramble uses the Gen 2 zaccaria boardset with minor modification, and Xforce and Space Team use a completely new style of boards. Technoplay only made 4 games before ending the pinball division. Space team was made in 2 versions. Normal pinball cabinet style, like I have, and hi-ball, which is space team, but with a huge arcade style cabinet.

technoplay complete collection (resized).jpg
#2108 25 days ago

My new Farfalla apron cards are available for purchase ($15 for the set of 3): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mr-tantrum-s-pinball-apron-cards/page/2#post-5875280

#2109 24 days ago

Would someone be nice enough to take pictures of the coil and EOS wiring of the two main flippers of a Farfalla? Many thanks in advance.

#2110 23 days ago

Picked up a Spooky today super excited to add it to the collection.

20200929_220933 (resized).jpg
#2111 23 days ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Picked up a Spooky today super excited to add it to the collection.
[quoted image]

Congratulations, I would like to have one just for the music

#2112 23 days ago

Added another today! It’s traded hands a couple times this year before landing with me. I can’t imagine why people wouldn’t want it in their home...

29866909-4902-45EB-A4CB-0285FABBFEF6.jpeg
#2113 23 days ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Picked up a Spooky today super excited to add it to the collection.

Great find. How’d you come across that beastie?

#2114 23 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Great find. How’d you come across that beastie?

Local friend of mine had it in his collection bought it from him.

#2115 22 days ago

i see they are using my pinball cards I'll be making some for blackbelt soon.

#2116 22 days ago

This was briefly brenna98's Clown. I assume he added them. They look nice!

#2118 22 days ago

Was playing Spooky yesterday and the Gi went out on me. Came back on and went back out as i messed with it. Checked all the fuses and made sure none of the connectors looked burnt. Any tips from someone who knows more on what to look for thanks.

#2119 21 days ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Was playing Spooky yesterday and the Gi went out on me. Came back on and went back out as i messed with it. Checked all the fuses and made sure none of the connectors looked burnt. Any tips from someone who knows more on what to look for thanks.

check the 3 plugs in back of the transformer. Sounds like one of those 2 prong plugs are coming out of the transformer box.

#2120 20 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

check the 3 plugs in back of the transformer. Sounds like one of those 2 prong plugs are coming out of the transformer box.

Thanks for the suggestion Neo. Checked down there saw some fuses which I forgot about. One of them had gone bad. Put a new one in and it fixed the problem.

#2121 19 days ago

i made a warning thread about Pinitech.com's NVram for zacs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-not-use-pinitechcom-5114nvram-s-in-zaccaria-machines#post-5886069

These do not work and you will fry coils with these. No matter what games I put them in, they do random weird shit. Stay away.

and I recently found out Pinballsolutions also has one, though I never tried it, but i'm assuming it's good, because all his stuff is good.
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-6514/

brinks (resized).jpgpinitech chip (resized).jpg
#2122 18 days ago

To be honest I don't understand why Pinitech NVRAMs should generate those outputs problems and I hope mine do not generate them too but until now, I never had feedback about that and I have few ZAC machines with NVRAM installed and never experienced it.

I also admit that NVRAMs are not my favorite items to sell, too much work to assemble them and no time to follow everything.

I have also produced the dual NVRAM here and I shipped some samples last year to US for testing and never got complains about them:

https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-dual-module-6514-2114/

6514_2114 (resized).jpg
#2123 18 days ago

I found on my Devil Riders that it was far far far worse if only one of the two RAM locations had an NVRAM in it. When I had NVRAM's in both locations it was rare to have a lockup on startup, but it did happen.

-Hans

#2124 18 days ago

This combination has worked great in my Farfalla, many games played and have not had any issues.

Farfalla NVRAM (resized).jpg
#2125 18 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i made a warning thread about Pinitech.com's NVram for zacs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-not-use-pinitechcom-5114nvram-s-in-zaccaria-machines#post-5886069
These do not work and you will fry coils with these. No matter what games I put them in, they do random weird shit. Stay away.
and I recently found out Pinballsolutions also has one, though I never tried it, but i'm assuming it's good, because all his stuff is good.
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-6514/

Not frequenting Pinside too much these days, but just saw this & wanted to respond.

It seems other manufacturer 5114 NVRAM works fine from reports in this thread. No problem for me to accept that it's something specific to my module. As of 11 months ago I have not advertised Pinitech 5114 NVRAM to work with Zaccaria machines. I would encourage anyone wanting NVRAM for their Zaccaria to look into the other vendor modules mentioned in this thread for your games.

The dual 2114/5114 modules being sold for Zaccaria Gen2 may be best option IMO to avoid any possible timing issues. After reviewing the Zaccaria MPU schematic again, I would personally avoid utilizing just a single module since both RAMs work together like the two 5101 chips on Stern MPU-200 games where mismatched RAM speeds WILL cause timing issues and make weird things happen.

Gianfri has a dual NVRAM here:
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-dual-module-6514-2114/

So with that said, there's a few single 5114 NVRAMs mentioned on this thread as reportedly working without issues. Ignoring why I think you should use a dual 5114 NVRAM on these games & assuming other single 5114 NVRAMs are working 100%, what would possibly make the Pinitech NVRAM any different?

It uses the same FRAM part -- so that's not it.

The 5114 SRAM pinout is literally address A0-A9, D1-D4, chip enable, write enable -- all 1-to-1 connections with the FRAM. Unused address lines on the FRAM as well as output enable tied to GND. I've also confirmed with other info online for 5114 RAM to NVRAM adapters that the pinouts/connections aren't different in my design. Not to mention this has been used in arcade games successfully for the last 3+ years, tests fine through the Neoloch tester, etc.

The only remaining thought of what might be causing an issue is data left on by the Neoloch tester since the modules are tested there prior to being sent out. Unlike most of the other NVRAM I sell, I don't have an adapter built for my GQ-4X programmer to be able to clear the RAM by filling with 0's or F's after it's been tested in the Neoloch. So whatever the Neoloch is writing to it for its tests remains on the chip. I'm not familiar with how Zaccaria's clear memory or deal with existing data, so not sure what the chances are that it could be pulling in "junk data" that the Neoloch wrote to it for the RAM tests. Junk data could certainly cause a problem if the game doesn't automatically clear it out or offer a way for the user to clear the RAM. Arcade games typically have an option to clear this and restore to factory defaults, so generally not an issue there.


For anyone that's experienced issues in their Zaccaria -- send me a PM. We can work out a return of the Pinitech 5114 module(s) you have & either do a store credit and/or refund of some sort once modules are received. This is regardless of WHEN you purchased them. I will need to match up the original order with an order number or Paypal email though, so please include that info in the PM.

Again, apologies for anyone that experienced an issue with this module and their Zaccaria pinball!

---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

#2126 18 days ago
Quoted from Elwood_BE:

Would someone be nice enough to take pictures of the coil and EOS wiring of the two main flippers of a Farfalla? Many thanks in advance.

Hope this helps
Left:
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Right:
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#2127 17 days ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Not frequenting Pinside too much these days, but just saw this & wanted to respond.
It seems other manufacturer 5114 NVRAM works fine from reports in this thread. No problem for me to accept that it's something specific to my module. As of 11 months ago I have not advertised Pinitech 5114 NVRAM to work with Zaccaria machines. I would encourage anyone wanting NVRAM for their Zaccaria to look into the other vendor modules mentioned in this thread for your games.
The dual 2114/5114 modules being sold for Zaccaria Gen2 may be best option IMO to avoid any possible timing issues. After reviewing the Zaccaria MPU schematic again, I would personally avoid utilizing just a single module since both RAMs work together like the two 5101 chips on Stern MPU-200 games where mismatched RAM speeds WILL cause timing issues and make weird things happen.
Gianfri has a dual NVRAM here:
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-dual-module-6514-2114/
So with that said, there's a few single 5114 NVRAMs mentioned on this thread as reportedly working without issues. Ignoring why I think you should use a dual 5114 NVRAM on these games & assuming other single 5114 NVRAMs are working 100%, what would possibly make the Pinitech NVRAM any different?
It uses the same FRAM part -- so that's not it.
The 5114 SRAM pinout is literally address A0-A9, D1-D4, chip enable, write enable -- all 1-to-1 connections with the FRAM. Unused address lines on the FRAM as well as output enable tied to GND. I've also confirmed with other info online for 5114 RAM to NVRAM adapters that the pinouts/connections aren't different in my design. Not to mention this has been used in arcade games successfully for the last 3+ years, tests fine through the Neoloch tester, etc.
The only remaining thought of what might be causing an issue is data left on by the Neoloch tester since the modules are tested there prior to being sent out. Unlike most of the other NVRAM I sell, I don't have an adapter built for my GQ-4X programmer to be able to clear the RAM by filling with 0's or F's after it's been tested in the Neoloch. So whatever the Neoloch is writing to it for its tests remains on the chip. I'm not familiar with how Zaccaria's clear memory or deal with existing data, so not sure what the chances are that it could be pulling in "junk data" that the Neoloch wrote to it for the RAM tests. Junk data could certainly cause a problem if the game doesn't automatically clear it out or offer a way for the user to clear the RAM. Arcade games typically have an option to clear this and restore to factory defaults, so generally not an issue there.

For anyone that's experienced issues in their Zaccaria -- send me a PM. We can work out a return of the Pinitech 5114 module(s) you have & either do a store credit and/or refund of some sort once modules are received. This is regardless of WHEN you purchased them. I will need to match up the original order with an order number or Paypal email though, so please include that info in the PM.
Again, apologies for anyone that experienced an issue with this module and their Zaccaria pinball!
---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

In answer to Wayne's post, I also test the NVRAMs with the inquisitor so this shouldn't be the problem.

I have never seen a pinitech nvram in real so the only idea I may have is related to the capacitor, do you have a capacitor installed in your modules? I don't see any in the pictures therefore this may be the only difference.

Gianfri

#2128 17 days ago
Quoted from gianfri:

In answer to Wayne's post, I also test the NVRAMs with the inquisitor so this shouldn't be the problem.
I have never seen a pinitech nvram in real so the only idea I may have is related to the capacitor, do you have a capacitor installed in your modules? I don't see any in the pictures therefore this may be the only difference.
Gianfri

I was going to mention that since it's a noticeably difference in pictures, but figured it's irrelevant. The MPU has the bypass caps for the RAM and every other IC since that's a proper circuit. Having an extra bypass cap on the NVRAM adapter PCB doesn't hurt anything, but you now just have two bypass caps in the circuit (one at the MPU and one at the NVRAM). It's redundant. If the bypass cap somehow shorts or fails at the MPU you've still got a problem. IMO you see more adapters with the bypass caps because those people saw that's what was out there and didn't want their modules looking like they were missing something. I chose not to add an unnecessary part to the modules

At the end of the day, the entire nvram board + header pins + smd nvram *IS* an IC. Those parts create a unit that's equivalent to a DIP part. That's the purpose of the adapter. Take the SMD part and allow it to work in a different sized footprint/socket. When you start adding additional components beyond the PCB, headers & SMD chip, it's IMO no longer an IC. It's a specialized board. Only time it's necessary to have additional bypass caps on the NVRAM adapter pcb itself is if there's additional logic ICs needed for the circuit (ie. 5101 dual CE needs additional components & bypass cap).

-Wayne

#2129 17 days ago

But still... Zaccaria has a very complex architecture and the cap is one difference so, never say never

good night

#2130 17 days ago
Quoted from gianfri:

But still... Zaccaria has a very complex architecture and the cap is one difference so, never say never
good night

Agreed, it's a difference and Zaccaria machines are complex! But, unless Zaccaria MPUs didn't have a bypass cap on the MPU for the RAM chips it shouldn't be the problem.

I think what would need to happen as a smoking gun test is for someone that has experienced these issues to try various brands of single 5114 NVRAM in their game to see what works and what doesn't. Outside of that, we're just dependent on time & a larger sample size as more people upgrade their games to see if any additional reports come in for other brands for a configuration with replacing IC4 only.

#2131 17 days ago

well i've tried 2 different versions of NVram so far, and I use memory caps, when i'm too lazy to install the second socket for the second ram. But I have never had problems with Brinks setup, except the fact that the pin legs like to break off if you take out the chip after it's installed. I did have 1 bad Brinks that would not hold settings no matter what i did.

#2132 16 days ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

well i've tried 2 different versions of NVram so far, and I use memory caps, when i'm too lazy to install the second socket for the second ram. But I have never had problems with Brinks setup, except the fact that the pin legs like to break off if you take out the chip after it's installed. I did have 1 bad Brinks that would not hold settings no matter what i did.

Try wedging a mechanical pencil underneath and between the two RAM IC's, while gently prying up and working both sides. I've done that with some other boards and it allows you to exercise more control over things via leverage. Plus the mechanical pencil shouldn't hurt the board

#2133 14 days ago

Anyone know of a source for a Magic Castle Left Flipper Coil D.50 S.600 / D.14 S.5000 or Williams Brand Coil Substitution Custom 24-600/35-5000 Thanx in Advance

Coil Zaccaria Flipper (resized).jpg
#2135 13 days ago

Hello, does anyone have any spare Zacc post caps?

IMG_3222 (resized).jpeg
#2136 13 days ago

Plastics for Stars Phoenix to trade for a set of Zacc post caps anyone?

IMG_3205 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-6 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-7 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-4 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-5 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-1 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-2 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-3 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-8 (resized).jpegFullSizeRender-9 (resized).jpegIMG_3217 (resized).jpegIMG_3218 (resized).jpeg
#2137 13 days ago

New Aerobatics owner here! I was doing some research and I have not been able to find any guides or projects involving flipper part substitutes for Zaccaria EM machines. Anyone out there rebuilt some and know what parts to use?

#2138 13 days ago
Quoted from Future_Primitive:

Plastics for Stars Phoenix to trade for a set of Zacc post caps anyone?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Metric cap/acorn nut with a nylon washer would work perfectly.

#2139 10 days ago

I need you to confirm something. I have on my Farfalla a working flipper coil but it's not a original one and the size is not perfectly identical. So, I ordered two times an original one on pinball center site and I have the same problem with both, the main winding works fine but the hold doesn't work.
If I try to measure the resistance of the main in both direction I can read a value but if I make the same on the hold, I read a value only in one direction meaning for me that the wire is cut and that I read a value because the current flows through the diode (and obviously it's not possible in the other way).

Does that sound right to you?

IMG_20201013_135357 (resized).jpgIMG_20201013_135417 (resized).jpgIMG_20201013_135439 (resized).jpgIMG_20201013_135500 (resized).jpg
#2140 10 days ago

I think the batteries in your meter may be weak. None of those readings look right to me.

#2141 10 days ago
Quoted from orykzinyo:

I think the batteries in your meter may be weak. None of those readings look right to me.

With another one, I have 3,6 Ohm with both sides of the 'main' and as the first one a result in mega Ohm and nothing on the 'Hold' one.

#2142 9 days ago

Hey All! Joining the club, I picked up a Devil Riders in nice shape. I could use a little (hopefully easy) help. A couple of quick questions:

1) The band / belt on the bike rider's motor is worn out and snapped. The motor functions fine, but I need a replacement belt. Does anyone know what the original was, or where a replacement can be found?

2) There's a clear yellowish plastic sheet across the middle section of the backglass, stapled to the door panel at the top. It doesn't seem to serve a purpose. I'm wondering if it's supposed to be removed, and never was. Looking at pics of other games, I don't see it on there, but I do sometimes catch a glimpse of pieces of it stapled near the top like mine was. Guessing it was maybe just a protector for original shipping or something? Can I just remove it?

Thanks in advance!

#2143 9 days ago
Quoted from Elwood_BE:

With another one, I have 3,6 Ohm with both sides of the 'main' and as the first one a result in mega Ohm and nothing on the 'Hold' one.

I wasn’t paying attention before...

Zaccaria flipper coils are built differently from most. They interrupt the coil partway through instead of having two different windings. You should take measurements from the unbanded side of the diode to the center and then from the unbanded side to the far side.

The way you have them arranged in your pictures, from the left to the middle and then from the left to the right.

#2144 9 days ago

Regarding the drive belt/rubber on the backglass bike of Devil Riders, I found this post buried in the thread:

Quoted from HHaase:

For the drive belt on Devil Riders, head to the hardware store and ask for a #38 o-ring. Looks to fit perfectly without too much tension, drives my bike fine. If that's not tight enough, can also use a #25 but wasn't sure if it was too much tension. Should be able to grab both for under $2.00 total.

Can anyone that had to replace theirs confirm?

#2145 9 days ago

The #38 worked fine for me, was still going strong when I sold the game.

#2146 8 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

The #38 worked fine for me, was still going strong when I sold the game.

Could you send me a link to the o-ring by any chance? When I search for #38 o-ring I get varied results. Thanks!

#2147 8 days ago

For a replacement for a hole kicker (i.e., the top hole for Space Shuttle), the pinballmedic.net site says that it is cross-listed with "Williams 26-1200". I am looking to buy the AN-26-1200 / AO-1200 from Amazon (the item listing has both models listed). Would either of these work? Also, what is the difference between the AN & AO models?

#2148 8 days ago

selling few more games

any one interested send me a pm

Locomotion & Spooky
also Jolly park ( spinball)

#2149 7 days ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Hey All! Joining the club, I picked up a Devil Riders in nice shape. I could use a little (hopefully easy) help. A couple of quick questions:
1) The band / belt on the bike rider's motor is worn out and snapped. The motor functions fine, but I need a replacement belt. Does anyone know what the original was, or where a replacement can be found?
2) There's a clear yellowish plastic sheet across the middle section of the backglass, stapled to the door panel at the top. It doesn't seem to serve a purpose. I'm wondering if it's supposed to be removed, and never was. Looking at pics of other games, I don't see it on there, but I do sometimes catch a glimpse of pieces of it stapled near the top like mine was. Guessing it was maybe just a protector for original shipping or something? Can I just remove it?
Thanks in advance!

I used a black springy hair tie for mine. Been working fine for the past 7 years. The o ring is probably a much better and cleaner solution.

#2150 5 days ago

hi guys,
My Farfalla has started to show a weird issue recently.
It's located on the right mini-flipper that activates when it's lit and when drain on the right and hit the flipper button => it's most of the time not working or after the 5/6th try (and thus way too late to save the ball)
Same coil is reacting instantly and perfectly when in test mode

Yes I relit the save flipper by having a DT bank down between each try
The right drain roll over is working fine as well when testing.

Any idea? Looks like a delay due to a cold solder or dying component somewhere...

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