i'm assuming as well, It's not like there are a lot in the US.

did you go through all the settings? You have to change them all when you change something. When you reach the end and game over stays lit, you did it right. if not, it won't hold.

probably 500-700

I always use the rubber type ones, because the plastic hat style ones are a PIA to slide off.

don't forget, that you have to change every value, or it's probably not going to stick. Clear all audits. move every option around a bit.

I seem to have problems with settings not taking many times if I don't change everything.

all fuses test good? not just by looking? If no coils are firing under the playfield, sounds like you have fuses blown. Test with a meter, while one side is pulled out. I bet your fuse clips are shot and fatigued. You will know when you put the fuse back in and it splits wide open.

flipper coils are different than regular coils. they have a different fuse. So if it's blowing in coil test, it might be a bad regular coil. best way is to disconnect all the left side connectors off the power supply board, and leave the bottom right connector. Test all your voltages first and see what you have going on. also see if it blows the fuse with nothing connected.

are all coil diodes on correctly? Also look at all the lights and see if any are close to touching something else. Maybe the flipper provides vibration enough to short something out with a lamp socket very close to something else.

damn that look nice. Good work on the conversion.

soccer kings usually has only 3 balls in the back to start.

4? I don't think it matters really. If you look at the back holding area, there is only 1 switch back there acknowledging the first ball anyway. The rest are just for speed of the kickout.

might be 2, but I know there isn't enough to acknowledge all the balls in there.

the program does kick the flipper if there are balls missing in the upper, because it thinks there isn't balls up top and trying to put them back. Kind of like a balls search. But the 2 VUK's should not be firing during this. Sounds like you have a bad diode somewhere on a coil. Or one of the main coil control chips is wonky.

did you rebuild those flippers? might be sticking. Rebuild them like you would a regular flipper.

coil sleeves are universal. Cleaning the plungers doesn't need parts. Grinding down any mushrooms that maybe on the plungers or stops, doesn't need parts. If you need a new link. standard b/w links work just fine. Make sure switch contacts are nice and clean by using the dremel wire brush attachment. Do not file them.

make sure all 3 leaf switches are clean and adjusted correctly for the goal area. Also make sure you have 3 or 4 balls in there. Upper flipper does randomly fire if it thinks there are balls stuck in the upper field. Kind of like a ball search.

zaccaria-pinball.com will make you a ribbon cable that you need. He has a Magic castle as well, so he could make you even the display cable since he has one to copy.

some of the GI's are good. All the stuff that is colored on the top side of the playfield has to go. Inserts in color look good. Backglass is horrifying. You are losing so much art by doing this.

looks to me like you have the SS version and someone blacked out the credit section and added a thicker boarder to the top one.

dave at zaccaria-pinball.com casts red and blue flipper bats and offers the shaft.

he has the Gen 2 available now. Gen 1 is in the works but not ready yet.

I have some of the locomotion parts you need. They are not new, but better than what you have. But i'm in the US.

I want to post this on here, so others can read about it regarding locomotion.

Locomotion uses an Altered Gen 1 mpu board. I has special jumpers added just for locomotion. If these jumpers are not added, the game will not work. You can see the jumpers on the board. I believe Dave says something about it on his site

if you have a magic castle to work with. I'd swap ribbon cables with it first to see what happens. Study the connector in the bottom right corner of the PS board. Make sure everything looks good there. Usually that connector is trashed and needs to be redone.

i believe williams system 11 lockdown bars are direct replacement for zacs.

yes, the player 2 display should be in the middle right position. There are jumpers on each display telling you where they should go. Player 1 is 1, player 2 is 2, player 3 is 3, player 4 is 4 and credit is 5.

zaccaria-pinball.com does excellent work.

free play roms, just set 30 to 1.

turn dip switch 4 to on. Go to your settings. clear out all audits. Go through each setting, change each one, even if it's on what you want. But change it and go back to the setting you want. Setting 30, you want set to 1. That's free play. continue changing all settings. When you are done and through all 36. game over should stay lit solid. That's how you know it took. Turn off dip switch 4 and your set.

you need to rewire that toggle switch back up.

toggle runs through tests. Start button changes the value. I'll get some pics in a bit.

Here is how mines hooked up. Gray n white, white and black n white wires

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if you are on free play, you shouldn't need coin switches.

well my transformer doesn't have those 115 lugs like yours does. Just 200-220.

I use daylight 2SMB in all my GI's for zacs. only ones I use for GI sockets. I'd suggest 1smb for backboxes as 2smbs are bright but they have great light distribution. Frosted. I will use color for inserts from time to time.

BG resto has farfalla on file and can make them.

there are 2 adjustment pots on the sound board. Maybe 3. They one adjusts the speed of the sound. It's slower than it should be. that needs to be adjusted.

acrobatics head.

yes, I saw that one. I couldn't believe how much wear it had. i've never seen a zac wear like that.

rubber ring was slipping on mine as well. I replaced it with an elastic hair tie and has worked great ever since.

the ring is similar to a belt drive ring for a cassette player. I don't know a source for them, but you could use rubber belt to fit that electronic repair places sell. I think DVD/cd players that use belt drive would have them as well.

you have to take off the upper playfield to get to those lights.

Some LED's will not work, some will randomly quick flicker and some will be just fine. It's best to use comet 2smb frosted daylight/sunlight for GI's and use bulbs for any controlled lamps.

I think locomotion is really fun. Love the rules and layout. It's going to take a bit to get it going though. Mine was just as rough as this one when I got it, and I did a full restoration on mine. glad I did, because it's a really fun game. Was worth the time and effort to do it. I do have a nice used playfield available for this game if you decide you want to make it look better.

I agree. It's like gen 1.5 since they modified the board to handle a lot more to get ready for gen2. It's a fantastic game. And they did make a ton of them, but a ton also have been parted out. I run into parts from locomotion all the time.

ahhh, that's why there are 8 digit and 7 digit pinball champs. I was wondering why. I have had both version. I did not know 8 digit version was super rare or I would have kept it.

anyone have problems like that with brinks chips? I bought a bunch of brinks. So far I only have had one that wouldn't hold settings and had to swap it for another.

brinks chip uses

Ramtron
fm16w08-sg
A11400u908g2

that's one aspect I liked about your chip is that I didn't have to install a socket in the other side. But by the time yours was released, I already bought 14 brinks chips. I do have your chip in some boards, i'm going to have to watch for lockups.

here's what the brinks looks like.

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ribbon cable is responsible for speech. Did you try flipping it around, or swapping it with the one between the CPU and driver board? Just to see if it changes anything.

even works with locomotion which needed special mods to the board in order to work?

i thought he has a jumper to use all the free play roms.

my farfalla and time machine have attract off. I think so does soccer kings. is the manual say 29 is still the same setting?

it must work because mine are not in attract mode except for soccer kings, which I never set yet.

non working though. If the wrong boards are in there, it would be a major problem to fix.

anyone else have a problem with magic castle not being steep enough? I have my back legs jacked up as high as they go, and rubber spacer on the back and the fronts down as low as they go and still can't good pitch. DId they do the gottlieb thing like haunted house, where the backs are longer than the fronts?

i lined them all up, they are all the exact same size. measured at the holes. I cannot figure it out. I think my playfield pitch is made wrong in the cabinet, or my back holes are drilled to far down. I may go with high low legs on that game to fix it. My RFM has a similar problem like this.

has to be something on the board.

you have to turn on DIP 4 before attempting to change the settings, and you have to change every single setting and clear every audit or it won't take. If it's on the setting you want, just rotate through back to the same setting, but make sure you change something on it before going to the next one.

the LED displays that are out there are fantastic. Well worth it. If you want to buy originals, I have 7 and 8 digit ones in stock. tested and working.

so you printed bats and using original covers? The covers are staying on well?

I have a bunch of those as well. Those cannot be easy to make. Very cool looking coins.

it's jus a standard microswitch. Just the big version. Just buy one with a straight wire and bend it to look like that.

Mexico 86 has joined my quest to have a complete set of Gen 2 zaccarias. Only 1 more left to go. And it's not super rare either, which makes the quest a lot easier. I've ran across ops that had 3 of them sitting in the warehouse at a time before I became a full on zac collector. (Blackbelt is the only 1 left). Mexico 86 is rare here in the states. I've found lots of them in Southern europe but nobody was willing to ship. In the US, mexico 86 is ultra rare, in europe it's just rare. About the rarity of Robot.

Zacs have 5 levels of rarity. Similar to magic cards.

Common
Uncommon
Rare
Ultra rare
Legendary Rare

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yes, a rare game collector out in CA had it and sold it as a package deal with a bunch of other stuff. Troy Smith found it for me when trying to get the stuff he wanted.

PM me, and email me a pic of the part. Can't think of what you are describing right now. I probably have one I can sell you.

It's not often I sell a zac, but now that mexico 86 showed up, I need room for Blackbelt, so i'm forced to let one of them go. Put my Universe up for sale. Realized i'll never have the room to get a full set of zacs (38 different games total). I need to just keep focus on Gen 2's and my 1 gen 1.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-rare-zaccaria-universe#post-5261506

Very very clean example of universe. mint backglass, near mint playfield.

should add those to the Zaccaria apron cards thread as well. Would get a lot of action on there as well.

david gersic can make you ribbon cables you need. Zaccaria-pinball.com

clear cannot be gone. Just scuffed up from balls with dings on them. it's there and can be buffed back to mirror shine. it it was in high humidity environments, and had graining throughout, then you will probably want to swap.

if you already have it apart, it's a good idea. I do it to mine when I have them completely stripped down.

i use the brinks chips.

i'd probably be willing to be a reseller for you. I'm updating my site with a zaccaria parts section available.

none of them are white. I've never seen white neon in any zac. Since we are doing a poll.

Mines a fleshy pale pink color.

farfalla never existed with 8 digit. Someone threw those in there because someone used the original for another game, and someone else tried to piece this one together.

Just lowered the Price on this Minty Zaccaria Universe. Only $900. Works great. very clean inside and out. Every switch has been cleaned. Minty backglass, playfield and plastics. Located in SE WI.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-rare-zaccaria-universe#post-5284112

that black connector block is nothing. It was a diagnostics block plug. Doesn't do anything. button inside the coin door sometimes adds credits. I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out. the wires down by the tilt in electrical tape, I believe is also standard for a coil or switch that wasn't used.

it's probably the wires from the glass to the board.

you can swap it without moving the jumper just to see if it's the cable or not. But if it was the cable, the segment would be out on each of the digits.

you sure those jumpers are right for those roms? did you reseat the ribbon cable? Try disconnecting all of the other displays and flip the cable around and try it on just one display. meaning. Use one of the connectors that normally goes to a display, and plug it into the board, and use the next one in line to go to the display. That will tell you if it's a cable issue.

also, those jumpers are not soldered on the back at all. If the platted through on that hole is broken, it won't be following those traces on the back. I'd solder those pads on the back too, to make sure you have connection.

jumpers should be.

J1- A
J2- b
j3 - c
J4 - f
J5- H
j6- Y
J7- K
J8 - L

well with those wires like that. i'm sure they were shorting against the grounding panel in the backbox. May have shorted something out. Hope you clipped them off first.

don't let the age fool you. I most of my games are 40 years old and they are all rock solid. Some are 50 years old and more reliable than some peoples 90's and 2000's stuff.

i've had to build about 60 of those displays already. They are fantastic .

nvm. Didn't know that was R6, can't see a label.

oooo. a new zac collector in the group. welcome.

figured you were not new based upon the number of games you already had. Just new to pinside.

Reduced to $700!!! I moved the Universe from one side of the gameroom to the other, and now it developed a slight problem, where it will randomly not reset the right drops on the first try. they try and drop down. This causes the game to sometimes skip a ball or a player when this happens. Played fine for years, and now that I moved it, some switch must be gapped a little too far apart.

I don't have time to dig into it, so i'm lowering the price on the universe to $700. It still plays fine besides the random skipping of a player/ball from time to time. If i get time to look into it and fix it, then the price will go back up to $900.

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you talking about the metal standoff screw that has a hex on the end used for plastics? With the screw in wood style bottom?

you talking about the white top hat looking slider that goes on? how many you need. I have both on hand I think. Used but have them.

you want the channel for the thicker glass. They have 2 types, thin and thick. Zacs use thick.

you don't really need it. It's just there for the lock so it doesn't hit the glass directly. you could use plastic trim along the top if you want, or small piece of tape in the middle if you wish.

this is confusing. You mean it flips on it's own? Or does it mean that the ball goes through the outlane and passes the flipper before it works? or does it mean you are flipping before the ball reaches the ideal point on the flipper?

i'd first look at the wiring for the switch, for the flipper and everything connected in between. If there is a relay board for that, check it for cold solder joints. check for wires touching. Loose wires, and diodes that might be loose.

wiggle them around. I've had them just crumble in my hands just from trying to move them. One Williams game I had once. 4 of them crumbled on me when checking the entire playfield.

the playfield actually comes off really easy. There are a couple of screws in the lexan. If you take those out, and take off the switch springs on the entrance gates. take the flippers off. It should lift right up and you can get under it.

try reflowing the solder on the relay first. and make sure your switch diodes are all on correctly, and on the right points of the switch. Look for banded side orientation. I really don't think it's the relay itself, but could be.

looks like that's not the only board you are going to be redoing some connectors on.