(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

7 years ago


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  • 260 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by luvthatapex2
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There are 2,485 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 50.
#1251 2 years ago

Hi fellow Zaccaria lovers

Here we got my Nr 5 of this title
Fresh through customs , no hold ups

A8A184D9-7E5A-4308-981D-40F4895DAC1B (resized).jpeg
#1252 2 years ago

Congratulations on the spooky!

#1253 2 years ago

Amazing! How DO you do it, rvdv?!

#1254 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Amazing! How DO you do it, rvdv?!

I love the hunt for these games
Just found a non Zaccaria called Space Rider
Coming in this weekend

It’s a Geiger conversion
Pretty cool looking

#1255 2 years ago

Wow that is amazing. I tried for 6 years to find 1 Spooky. I gave up. Hope the other 4 go to other people that love the game.

Quoted from rvdv:

Hi fellow Zaccaria lovers
Here we got my Nr 5 of this title
Fresh through customs , no hold ups [quoted image]

#1256 2 years ago

Never saw a Spooky yet, even though I am close to Italy. Maybe I'll see one one day.

#1257 2 years ago

Hi there,

I finished upgrading my Farfalla and am giving you some feedback.

I fitted the LED display kits from Lazlo (http://www.zaccaria-pinball.hu/en/):
- they are really cheap (10€ each, 12 on ebay)
- they work just fine (see pics)
- Lazlo provides instructions and is helping
- There is a lot of soldering/desoldering to do, so do not do it if you are not confortable with this

For me it took much longer than I though it would, motivated me to buy a desoldering station, but it does look very nice and the price can not be beaten. My Farfalla is now in the 21st century, no more 100V, no more incandescent bulbs, no more old boards... It should run for decades!

If you want LED displays and like projects like this, go for it! You won't be disappointed.

(I managed to take the pic exactly when the screen was blinking, thus the empty display 1 )
20190417_172808 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1258 2 years ago

My farfalla lock down reciever is really corroded.

Will another one like bally or Williams work?

#1259 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My farfalla lock down reciever is really corroded.
Will another one like bally or Williams work?

The lockbar is the same as a Williams. The Williams receiver might work, but not sure if it has different cabinet mounting holes.

#1260 2 years ago

Anyone have an original Aerobatics flyer they would part with? It’s the only machine I own that I don’t have a flyer for.

Thanks!

#1261 2 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

The lockbar is the same as a Williams. The Williams receiver might work, but not sure if it has different cabinet mounting holes.

So if the lock bar is the same, that would infer that the lock bar receiver is the same?

Can anyone verify this?

Different mounting holes are not a problem etc.

What system version William's lock bar and reciever do I order?

And do the Williams siderails/cabinet buttons also fit?

#1262 2 years ago

I’m about to join the club on Friday...picking up a Robot at Pinfest. ISO spare parts if anyone has any they’d willing to part with.

Also, is there a Bulletproofing guide for the SS machines like I’ve seen on here for early Bally and Williams SS?

Thanks in advance guys

#1263 2 years ago

Welcome to the group! For parts, it depends on what you are looking for. Some parts, like any machine, are easier than others. A lot of Zac machines due to their rarity are sometimes more difficult than others to find parts for. Others cross over to some older machines like Williams. Otherwise, Zaccaria was unique to their own approaches. Look backwards through this thread should give you some good tips.
I'd start with David's amazing site. He's the person who helped me get motivated to keep going.

http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/

#1264 2 years ago

Thanks Joe. Already been emailing Dave back and forth for flipper parts since I’d like to get some original translucent ones for the machine.

#1265 2 years ago

i believe williams system 11 lockdown bars are direct replacement for zacs.

#1266 2 years ago

Speaking of which. Any recommendations on flipper rebuild kits for 2nd generation?

#1267 2 years ago
#1268 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So if the lock bar is the same, that would infer that the lock bar receiver is the same?

infer what you want. The lock bars are 100% identical, the receivers are definitely not, but still might work. The handle is differently shaped and I don't see the carriage bolts attaching it through the wood on the Zac. Not sure if it's the same width or thickness or has the pf hanger notches in the same place. Williams lock bars were the same from at some point in the 1970's EM era (not sure what they they started) all the way through 1999 (except widebody and Pin2K). Spooky and JJP also use the Williams lockbars.

#1269 2 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

infer what you want. The lock bars are 100% identical, the receivers are definitely not, but still might work. The handle is differently shaped and I don't see the carriage bolts attaching it through the wood on the Zac. Not sure if it's the same width or thickness or has the pf hanger notches in the same place. Williams lock bars were the same from at some point in the 1970's EM era (not sure what they they started) all the way through 1999 (except widebody and Pin2K). Spooky and JJP also use the Williams lockbars.

So I should take a serious look at Williams system 11 lock down bar recievers?

I'll see if the one on my Diner matches up.

#1270 2 years ago

Trying to bring a devil riders back to life and looking for some advice. Searched a bunch but can find anything.
Power supply rebuilt and tested with all test points good.
On power up cpu and sound board leds light and then sound board led turns off. Few random pf lights on but that’s it. Garbage on displays. Thoughts of where to look?
Also will it boot proper without a battery? Haven’t installed a new one yet.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1271 2 years ago

Hmm can be a lot of stuff
Resit the roms, cables, resolder all the pins.

Also check your displays the nr2 and the credit (below it) should be the other way around.

#1272 2 years ago

yes, the player 2 display should be in the middle right position. There are jumpers on each display telling you where they should go. Player 1 is 1, player 2 is 2, player 3 is 3, player 4 is 4 and credit is 5.

#1273 2 years ago

Little progress. Rebuilt the cn9 connector and seems like it’s getting further sometimes. Locks on a number of coils however the transistors for them test good. Guess I will do all the connectors.
All board were pulled and reflowed so they should be good.
As for the displays seems like ribbon is original?

image (resized).jpg
#1274 2 years ago

Anyone love working on these boards?
Pretty positive the ps is good but would happily pay for other boards to be looked at.

#1276 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Anyone love working on these boards?
Pretty positive the ps is good but would happily pay for other boards to be looked at.

Well you got David in Chicago
Or The guy in Holland
They will need all boards to test properly

#1277 2 years ago

I got problem too
Credit button was installed it does not give credits

wires were cut from switched
How to go to put credits on ?

I do have Freeplay roms for Spooky
How to go install those properly

I also have Freeplay roms for Robot that I don’t need anymore
Happy to make someone happy with those

#1279 2 years ago

The guy in Holland is Han. He is currently working on a Gen2 MPU & driver board I sent him

The driver boards and MPUs made by Gianfri are also very good.
Fitting them in my Farfalla gave it a new youth, if you want to bullet-proof it.
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/new-zaccaria-cpu-board-1b1165evo-for-g2-pinball-machines/

#1280 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

free play roms, just set 30 to 1.

Not sure what you mean by that
So I swap the rims out then put dip switch to other position ?

#1281 2 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Not sure what you mean by that
So I swap the rims out then put dip switch to other position ?

Nope, go to test mode with the white button in the door, then go to setting 30 and put it to 1

#1282 2 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Nope, go to test mode with the white button in the door, then go to setting 30 and put it to 1

Unfortunately, all buttons are non responsive
Credit button , test button & service button

image (resized).jpg
#1283 2 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Not sure what you mean by that
So I swap the rims out then put dip switch to other position ?

turn dip switch 4 to on. Go to your settings. clear out all audits. Go through each setting, change each one, even if it's on what you want. But change it and go back to the setting you want. Setting 30, you want set to 1. That's free play. continue changing all settings. When you are done and through all 36. game over should stay lit solid. That's how you know it took. Turn off dip switch 4 and your set.

you need to rewire that toggle switch back up.

#1284 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

turn dip switch 4 to on. Go to your settings. clear out all audits. Go through each setting, change each one, even if it's on what you want. But change it and go back to the setting you want. Setting 30, you want set to 1. That's free play. continue changing all settings. When you are done and through all 36. game over should stay lit solid. That's how you know it took. Turn off dip switch 4 and your set.
you need to rewire that toggle switch back up.

Well reconnected few wires according to my other spooky
I get no response from test toggle but my start button does run me through tests ???
All test run smooth but can’t make no changes to 30 without test button working normal

You have pic of how yours is wired

#1285 2 years ago

toggle runs through tests. Start button changes the value. I'll get some pics in a bit.

#1286 2 years ago

Here is how mines hooked up. Gray n white, white and black n white wires

IMG_20190501_140014238 (resized).jpgIMG_20190501_140118502 (resized).jpg
#1287 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Here is how mines hooked up. Gray n white, white and black n white wires
[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s how this is is hooked up also
Do you have a pic of the coin switches how the wires are on it

I’ve got too many loose wires

#1288 2 years ago

if you are on free play, you shouldn't need coin switches.

#1289 2 years ago

I want to replace the flipper buttons on the cabinet for my Farfalla.

Are they standard williams/bally? What generation?

Thanks.

#1290 2 years ago

These are regular buttons. Just the usual ones like nowadays stern, jjp...

If you look above at the pic of my farfalla you will see I swapped mines with clear, illuminated buttons.

#1291 2 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

These are regular buttons. Just the usual ones like nowadays stern, jjp...
If you look above at the pic of my farfalla you will see I swapped mines with clear, illuminated buttons.

Great! I bought a bag of assorted colors at TPF.

#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

if you are on free play, you shouldn't need coin switches.

I think he needs it to make sure the common wire makes it over to the toggle switch. Looks like the one wire daisy chains it's way there and his wires are all hacked up.

#1293 2 years ago

Well it’s my problem to solve soon enough

#1294 2 years ago

Will be playing some of these great pins Sat at VFW. Always a 'special' treat to play these since you don't see them out in the wild very often.

Kudos to the owners here!

1 week later
10
#1295 2 years ago

Joined the club with my first Zaccaria. Had been looking for a Combat for a while, pretty excited to have found this beauty.

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#1296 2 years ago

Nice score. Welcome to the club!

#1297 2 years ago

Looks great, glad to see you're enjoying it!

#1298 2 years ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

Looks great, glad to see you're enjoying it!

Thanks! It's a tough one

#1299 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you asking about the 20 pin pin headers used on the MPU board and driver board?
The pins on those headers are staggered (zig zag) on the solder side. The German manufacturer of these particular pin headers (cant remember their name but they're still around) no longer makes them; they are obsolete. Gianfri is using replacement pin headers that are traditional straight line on the solder side. That's why the headers he uses are not a drop in replacement on your original board. To make matters more difficult, Zaccaria used metric pin headers that are pin spaced 2.50mm apart. Not like your typical Molex imperial 0.1" connectors with pins spaced 2.54mm apart.
.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Added 33 days ago: [Edit] Found the original manufacturers (Lumberg) staggered pin header as used on these MPU / Driver boards: Good luck trying to find any though...
https://www.lumberg.com/en/products/product/2%2C5+MSFQ%252FO

OK, I just wanted to know how gianfri's new Gen 2 MPU interfaces with the OEM connectors without having the same plug-in part. This explains it very well. I will be soldering in some jumpers to bypass the bad male connector sticks (what are they called?) to see if that works; if not, I'll just get a brand new board from gianfri.

#1300 2 years ago

Anyone doing the Gen 1 power board remanufacture? The one for my Space Shuttle looks screwy, with all kinds of mods, including what looks like a small bolted on board at the top. I much prefer to have new boards that don't have any screwy hacks (i.e., that have been designed to remove those hacks).

There are 2,485 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 50.

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