Hello, I received a Farfalla with a non working CPU. It's my first non-DMD machine and I try to repair it. I burned a eprom with Leon's test program. When I read it, I see that only the 312 first bytes are used, the rest of the eprom is full of FF. Is it normal ?

Looking for a 3000pt Drop Target..would settle for. 30,000 one.

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Thinking of letting go of my Time Mach. Let me know if there is any local interest. Lyons CO.

OK, so if I understand this correctly, I could source remanufactured boards as follows:

Generation 1:

- MPU: Blackadder (now) & gianfri (soon)

- driver: Blackadder (now)

- power: gianfri (possibly in future)

Generation 2:

- MPU: gianfri (now)

- driver: gianfri (now)

- power: gianfri (possibly in future)

Is this accurate?

As for myself, I think my Farfalla (Gen 2) is fine except that one of the pin connectors has a few busted pins. I presume that gianfri could sell that as a separate piece since he is making new boards with that, and I could just repin it myself. The MPU on my Space Shuttle (Gen 1) is not working and the power board seems to have an ugly hack, so I would want to replace that.

As for keeping old boards going, I've got a bad track record with Gottlieb System 1 and the early Bally boards, so my attitude is to just replace everything and not worry about it. That said, the Gen 2 boards seem to be solidly built, so maybe I will try to keep those going. In any case, if I'm ever considering shipping out my boards to get fixed, I will always prefer to buy remanufactured boards instead.

Yes, that looks ok for what concerns my products, cannot tell you about the others.

Regarding MPUs reproductions, I had some direct experiences with them and I can affirm that sometimes they can be very instable, could be due to modern components which are not exactly equivalent to the old ones.

One last detail, our boards are not clones but compatible evolutions like the Alltek.
Both MPUs work with flash roms and dip switches and not with original eproms. (G2 can still support old eproms but G1 won't)

I think you can still contact David Gersic in US for Zaccaria board's repair.

Gianfri

So you are saying that Gersic's EPROM/ROM ?? that allows for free play won't work with your G1 but will work with your G2? Does your board come with free play? What I mean by "free play" is that the new credits are awarded as usual, and the only extra thing that the MPU does is allow the player to start a new game even if the number of credits is 0. This is what the Ni-Wumpf Gottlieb System 1 MPU does, but the AllTek Bally Universal MPU board does not. According to him, Gersic's EPROM/ROM allows for this.

As for the repair, all I am interested in is one of the male pin sets, specifically CN11. Obviously you have been able to source these to build you product; I just want to get that part number and a vendor that sells it. Or I could just get it from you when I get the G1 MPU from you in the future. And it may turn out that that G2 MPU I have has some other issues, and in that case, I would just buy the G2 from you as well - but I would rather get that pin part on my own and fix it and after that determine if I need to replace the whole board.

Sorry, I forgot to answer your CN11 question.
No I don't have them and they appear to be impossible to find.

We just use standard strips which do not fit on the original boards.

And regarding the Free Play, the G1 board will come with both normal and free play roms while the G2 needs an additional flash rom to exchange on the board in order to have free play roms.
So both can have free play, G1 directly embedded and G2 with an optional/additional ROM sold as optional rom and probably as alternative to the original rom with no price difference. (these details are being finalised now)

So you are saying that Gersic's EPROM/ROM ?? that allows for free play won't work with your G1 but will work with your G2? Does your board come with free play? What I mean by "free play" is that the new credits are awarded as usual, and the only extra thing that the MPU does is allow the player to start a new game even if the number of credits is 0. This is what the Ni-Wumpf Gottlieb System 1 MPU does, but the AllTek Bally Universal MPU board does not. According to him, Gersic's EPROM/ROM allows for this.

As for the repair, all I am interested in is one of the male pin sets, specifically CN11. Obviously you have been able to source these to build you product; I just want to get that part number and a vendor that sells it. Or I could just get it from you when I get the G1 MPU from you in the future. And it may turn out that that G2 MPU I have has some other issues, and in that case, I would just buy the G2 from you as well - but I would rather get that pin part on my own and fix it and after that determine if I need to replace the whole board.

I don't understand. If you don't have the CN11 pin header, then how does your board interface with the harness of the machine, which is designed to interface to a CN11 pin header?

I wonder if that CN11 pin header can be made to order via 3-D printing.

For anyone interested, I will be listing a very rare, but non-working Gen 1 House of diamonds soon in the marketplace. Shopped, but not working $1000. i am firm on the price. PM me for details. Also have a fully working Earth Wind Fire, shopped, and a Star god that I haven't gotten to yet.

Are these boards for sale now?

Owner from today of a Farfalla!
My first Zaccaria.

When I tested it with the seller it suffered from reboots.
Will get to it when I have some space to work on it.
May have some questions

Hello,

yes, the boards are for sale.

Gersic's free eproms will be directly embedded on the G1 board together with the original ones, no need to burn them on eproms so no need to have eprom's support on the board.

And for the headers, we use different headers which are compatible with the connectors present in the pinball machine but not usable on the original boards for repair works.

Gianfri

How would I go about purchasing it?

I don't understand how the headers you use can be compatible with the connectors, but yet cannot not be used on a stock board.

Are you asking about the 20 pin pin headers used on the MPU board and driver board?
The pins on those headers are staggered (zig zag) on the solder side. The German manufacturer of these particular pin headers (cant remember their name but they're still around) no longer makes them; they are obsolete. gianfri is using replacement pin headers that are traditional straight line on the solder side. That's why the headers he uses are not a drop in replacement on your original board. To make matters more difficult, Zaccaria used metric pin headers that are pin spaced 2.50mm apart. Not like your typical Molex imperial 0.1" connectors with pins spaced 2.54mm apart.

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[Edit] Found the original manufacturers (Lumberg) staggered pin header as used on these MPU / Driver boards: Good luck trying to find any though...

https://www.lumberg.com/en/products/product/2%2C5+MSFQ%252FO

Thanks for helping with the explanation.
For me it was clear enough but apparently wasn't for others

My farlalla is now plugged.
There is a clear reboot issue; it works for like 1mn and then rebootsvery often.
Any hint?
I'd like to save it

Edit:
Found this, gonna follow it!
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html
I'm gonna solve it and turn this machine into a skittle box!

After controls, on the power supply board, at TP2 I have 8V where I should have 12.

Bridge rectifiers to change?

yes, go for P2

Changed all 3 as I was at it and no reboot so far!
And a shiny 14V (with nothing plugged) when I was getting 8 before

Was finally able to play a full game!
Incredible for 1983; huge digitalisations!

Hello boys,

here a spoiler video of the Zaccaria G1 MPU prototype with flash rom.

Cheers
Gianfri

Farfalla 1 - Nihonmasa 0
Was working under the playfield when it fell right on my head.
5 stitches in the hospital...

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that's not good!

"That's not only bad luck"

ok, the damn thing hates me..
After trying to kill me it acts up on me..

Tried to power it on today: no boot.

Symptoms: Sound LED always ON; CPU LED On for like 1/2 sec along with the display, then both CPU LED and display are OFF.

What I checked:
All voltage in the power supply is ok
All voltage going to the CPU is OK
ROMS desocketed and resocketed
Reflowed all connections on the CPU board
Changed both Capacitors on the CPU board
All connections are tight
All fuses are ok
Try to put the Switch4 to ON => strictly nothing else happened.

Still acting up the same way. It is clearly not booting. It was booting prior to the accident, but it was only the playfield not enough secured in its raised position dropping on me. I don't see any link...

Any idea? I'm getting lost and tired
Help ...

It's very strange, nothing depending on the playfield could impact the CPU unless it happened with the machine switched ON.

in this case the only thing I can see is a short on the contacts which caused a damage on the matrix circuit of the CPU but generally this doesn't block the boot but only the normal functioning.
To give you an example:
if you create a short on the contacts of the flipper bats with the mechanical parts of the bats (it often happens on the Devil riders) you burn the IC38 which is responsible for the matrix.

your situations looks more like a ram or power fail problem.
the power fail signal arrives with the white wire to the power connector of the CPU
you could use a voltmeter and see if you have 5V while measuring the pin 3 and pin 4 of the CPU power cable.
If yes then you have a power failure signal activated.

Avoid mistakes otherwise you burn the HV circuit.

Gianfri

Hi Gianfri,

Many thanks for your feedback!

It was OFF; so I am also amazed. Much be a coincidence?
Leftover from it's previous condition (bad) which activated and blew something after I solved the reboot problem?

Pins 3 & 4 are at 5V indeed. Tested a boot with the reset wire attached: still stuck in the same point.

for me, if you have 5V on pin3 and pin4, means that the power failure is on.

Could mean that you have something wrong on the power.
Check if F2 and F3 are not oxydated or burned, check if you have contact from the two poles.

Check that you don't have any short on the playfield lamps, that's maybe the source of the problem after the shock.
P3 provides 6V to the lamps and if something is wrong there, then the failure circuit goes ON and blocks the CPU

Gianfri

Hi Gianfri.

Once again thanks for your help
F2 & F3 are ok.
I have double checked for shorts: nothing.
The GI circuit does lit up as usual when i am poweting the machine.

For me it is stuck at the beginning of the sequence and can’t boot.

Before, when I had the 12V issue, it was reseting due to the power failure, but it booted.

While waiting on solving my main issue, I decided to tackle a more trivial one; the neon!

I did not manage to find someone still doing neons, and further ones were way too expensive.

So I decided to do a diy with a hozzle and a strip of 12V leds

I am happy with the results so far. We’ll see for real when the Vampire (her new nickname) will finally boot again!

Cons: losing the 360 of the neon, it created shade curves in the angles. Can live with it.

Original stuff has been stored, for fiture use I hope.

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Hi all!

New owner of a Zaccaria Locomotion.
Nice machine, that was standing in a friends place for many years.
Because he's moving out, he gave me his pinball
It need a little attention, like new bands, bulbs and a decent clean...
What I thought was goiing to be a simple swipe with some towels ended up in a whole lot of work
But after cleaning and polishing the result is quite decent (For me).

Still need some work before I can play again

However, I'm in need of some new items (or fixes)
1St the tunnel in the middle of te playfield has a part missing (see pic) want to find a new one...
Or maybe someone can scan it so I can let it 3d print?
2nd the ballguide under that tunnel has a broken "bone", glue or welding doesn't stick...Any tips welcome!

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I have some of the locomotion parts you need. They are not new, but better than what you have. But i'm in the US.

I'm looking at possibly joining the Zaccaria club.. I have an opportunity to pick up a Ten Stars machine that isn't resetting. I'm pretty new to EM, but am more concerned about getting parts in the US.. Are parts available?

What is a Ten Stars worth in really nice shape?

Whatever someones willing to pay? Import EMs usually go for around $600 if fully working.

Anyone know what this problem can be?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7QLtHmPx7bboazpd8

Got the Locomotion cleaned up and replaced all lamp bulbs and fuses, but when testing the lights I get this...and no more.
Lights on playfield burn (except the ones from the tunnel), and on the headboard only the one from "game over" a little.
The speaker makes a lot of noise and is deconected for the video.
Allready tested disconnecting the CN19 and 20 and 22, but no difference.

Combat for sale. Would consider OBO as well.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/77457

I want to post this on here, so others can read about it regarding locomotion.

Locomotion uses an Altered Gen 1 mpu board. I has special jumpers added just for locomotion. If these jumpers are not added, the game will not work. You can see the jumpers on the board. I believe Dave says something about it on his site

Looking for thoughts on this new issue for the Devil Riders. Game plays 100% but no insert lamps work except for the Shoot Again insert which is always on. Lamps used to work. New MPU and driver board. I have swapped power supply boards with a Magic Castle and it has no effect. I should mention that the backglass lights work correctly as well.

I have disconnected the sound to make sure that isn't the culprit.

Fuses are good.

Any thoughts on where to look?

Thanks

John

Selling a Farfalla with both backglass inserts - great condition. Would love to include a Star Trek 1979 and Lucky 7 too, as a package deal.

if you have a magic castle to work with. I'd swap ribbon cables with it first to see what happens. Study the connector in the bottom right corner of the PS board. Make sure everything looks good there. Usually that connector is trashed and needs to be redone.

What Neo said, swap the ribbon cable first.
I just had a recent problem on a Devil Riders where a handful of lamps were locked on and even more never turned on. After much testing and replacing of other components it turned out to be a bad 2101 RAM on the processor. Game code doesn't appear to do a very good Ram test on boot-up.

I swapped the cable with the mpu to audio board cable. No difference. Might change the chip or the mpu board next.

Thanks for the suggestions!

In other ZZZ news, looks like ASK Homework released their Zaccaria tables for Xbox One.

Does anyone have a stash of, or know of a supplier of, the white "top hat" design post caps for hex posts? I know they're a PIA to remove but I only need six to complete my Apple Time "Thunder Man", kind of a bastard cousin of Zac machines that uses them.

Thanks,

Alan

I need these too for my Combat if anyone has extras.

Those white acorn caps seem to be the holy grail of hard to find zac parts. Been a few years since I tried to find these. Time to expand the search with industrial parts suppliers.

Are these something someone can mold at home possibly? My games are currently not setup so I can't look for myself and I can't really recall them from memory.

Hi Zac Clubbers,

I’m working on (Gen 2) Mexico 86, Pinball Champ and Soccer Kings.

Clearly flipper kits for these games are not available but I’m wondering if there are components from other games in the same era that are cross comparable. In particular I’d like to get a few plungers and linkages as some of mine are rusted and badly worn.

Advise much appreciated.