Super friggin excited about my first Zaccaria... Spooky which just arrived yesterday!

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spooky_lightson_bloodsheddeathbath.jpg

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Congrats. You must have bought the rvdv one.. Glad someone did, so it would stop tempting me.

i'm assuming as well, It's not like there are a lot in the US.

Nice one!

Good Evening (writing from Belgium). I would like to join the Zaccaria Pinball Owners Club, as I am restoring a 'Combat'. Not that it will need repairs, just some TLC and new rubbers. If anyone can help me with the rubber list, that would be nice, as stores for pinball machines are entering bigfoot proportions around here. Will send pictures of all details in the 'Combat' section.

Can anyone give me some help with my Farfalla?

Link to thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-farfalla-blowing-fuse-f2

Just for you then
Since I had 3

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If you let another one loose @rvdv, PM me!

I’m trying to figure out how to set my Farfalla to 50 cents per credit and I just can’t seem to figure it out. I’ve changed the settings by using switch 4 and it’s just stuck at 25 cents per game no matter what I do. Any ideas anyone?

did you go through all the settings? You have to change them all when you change something. When you reach the end and game over stays lit, you did it right. if not, it won't hold.

If I have understood correctly you want to have one credit every two coins of 25 cents, right?
This mean that your pinball normally works with a 25 cents coin.
The programming of values 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 must follow some strict rules in order to get the right result.

Rule one: value indicated on values 11, 13 and 15 must be increasing or at least the same otherwise the setting will not be valid.
Rule two: for multiple coins you must have 00 as value

So let's try like that:
if you use the left coin receiver you must set option 11 (left coin receiver) to value 1 and option 12 to value 00
then options 13 and 15 must have either the same or multiple values to have it correct.
I suggest you to do the following:
put option 13 and 15 to value 2 and option 14 and 16 to value 1 (you are saying to the machine that left coin receiver has half of the credit value than center and right coin receiver which means 2 coins per one credit)

It must work like that.
Let me know.
Gianfri

PS
if you use the right coin receiver then apply the same value "00" to option 11 and 13; value 1 to options 12 and 14

probably 500-700

Hello. I'm a newbie to this thread. I recently imported a Space Shuttle that is not working (it looks like I will just send all the boards to Dave Gersic) and have a Farfalla (that I still haven't gotten around to playing; I've got lots of other pins in the herd that have needed my attention and I'm pretty busy on the road a lot, etc.) that I bought in the USA. Down the road, I plan on getting a Robot.

Anyway, there doesn't seem to be anything in the schematics or manuals that specify what the amps should be for the transformer - which is important since Zac sold a lot outside the 115V mains zone. The 230V released Space Shuttle has fuses of 5A & 1.6A (big & small transformer), and am wondering what I should do now that I have converted it to 115V. Common physics says to simply double the amps, but I recall that it was typical for American manufacturers to use 8A for 115V and 5A for 230V, so maybe my understanding of transformer impedance is not as good as I think - as a mechanical engineer I took "comprehensive electrical engineering" in my studies, but I have long forgotten about how to figure in a transformer in impedance calculations, so maybe I am missing something here. Looking at the fuses for the power board (I presume that the 3 fuses on the backside of the playfield feed from the power board), I tally up 672.5 VA - but I am not sure which transformer feed which fuses on the power board. Perhaps Zac set up the fuse levels for the lowest voltage in the world? The 6.6A would fit the 672.5 VA.

I haven't looked at the transformer fuse for Zaccaria, but it seems to have been released in the USA, so I would imagine that it is proper, but of course the manual only shows 5A, but it's in Italian, so was it meant for 230V? WHO KNOWS?

The manuals also don't seem to indicate whether any particular fuse is fast or slow blow. I've done a little googling of images, and it seems to be a hodge-podge of fast & slow everywhere, so I have no idea. I would appreciate the wisdom of the group for this.

I am firm believer in replacing MPU boards with remanufactured ones. I see that there is a Gen 2 remanufacture, but haven't seen one for Gen 1. Is a Gen 1 available anywhere?

Grazie

Dear Swamp,

I confirm that we have produced the Gen2 replacement MPU board and we are working on the Gen1 version.
We have a working version using the original eproms but we are currently experiencing some troubles with the flash function which will allow this MPU owners to select any Gen1 game without original leproms therefore this replacement will be only available when those will be solved.

Eproms for Gen1 are quite an annoying thing as one needs 5 eproms, most of them 2708, which are difficult to find and to program, therefore the flash option will really be the best feature for this MPU.

Gianfri

_________________________________________
Pinball Solutions
www.pinballsolutions.eu
LED displays for Zaccaria, Bally/Stern, Williams/Data East and much more... visit our website.

That's excellent! Rather than get the OEM board fixed, I will simply wait for this product to come out. Are you also working on the other boards? Does the Gen 2 (and whenever it comes, the Gen 1) board allow for new game if the number of credits is 0? This is the behavior of the Ni-Wumpf Gottlieb System 1 replacement board, but not the Alltek Bally replacement board, which to allow for free play doesn't use credits, and thus there is no way to get special.

Are you also working on any of the non-MPU boards for Zacs?

Are you also working on any of the non-MPU boards for Zacs?

Regarding the "free play" roms, we have discussed with David Gersic and agreed on the possibility to provide the "free play" roms with those boards.

We didn't really work on this option but it will be available at a certain moment as an additional flash rom to install on the current boards.
The current game selection allows 16 different combinations therefore it will be mandatory to replace the flash rom and place another one with the "free play" roms.

Regarding the other question, yes, we have the Gen2 driver board ready and working but we decided to freeze the project as we estimate the market very small for such a product as well as the Gen2 power board with modern components which is ready for prototyping phase.
Once completed the current ongoing projects we will resume all those boards.

Gianfri

It looks like I have found a place that makes the Zaccaria-style post caps, although the material here is titanium:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Din-1587-titanium-hex-domed-cap_1879537593.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normalList.12.104c12241fW3PE

I think the Zacs post thread is 3.5M. Can anyone confirm this?

I think the Zacs post thread is 3.5M. Can anyone confirm this?

I always use the rubber type ones, because the plastic hat style ones are a PIA to slide off.

if you buy them let us know if they are ok

I have a Thunder Man made by Apple Time in Milan, Italy 1987. The boardset is a bastard cousin of Zaccaria boards. My machine has speech ROMS in Italian. The manual says that English ROMS were made. Does anyone, perhaps in the U.K., have English ROMS and could burn me a set?

Thanks,

Alan

Anyone know if Trump's tariffs will include "pinball machines & bell ringers" from the EU? (That's the official listing in the government's Harmonized Tariff Schedule, LOL.) I've got my eye on another Zac (which of course is "made in Italy"), and I sure wouldn't like to pay a 25% tariff on importing it!

Nope, nobody knows and things change daily so I wouldn't worry about it AT ALL. Proceed!

Does anyone know where I can get the free play ROMs for Farfalla? I want to bring my game to Expo, but I'd prefer to have it set to free play all weekend. I can burn the chip myself. I just need the file. Thanks!

You can download it from:
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/games.html

Awesome. Thanks!

I must be an idiot, but I can't remember how to change the values in the options menu on my Farfalla. It's been years since I made any changes. Obviously, you use the little joystick to go back and forth to the different menu options, but what do you press to change them? Neither the start button nor the flipper buttons work.

It's the start button but...

... you have to activate the program mode from the CPU.
Open the headbox and change the pin4 of DIP1 to ON, the pinball will start making some noise in order to indicate that you entered the program mode.
When you finish you can put pin4 of DIP1 to OFF

Gianfri

Thank you so much! I completely forgot about the DIP switch.

don't forget, that you have to change every value, or it's probably not going to stick. Clear all audits. move every option around a bit.

that's only necessary if the memory is blank or dirty, not if it's just for a parameter to be changed

I seem to have problems with settings not taking many times if I don't change everything.

Must be something else, if the memory is clean and you only need to change a parameter it is not necessary to run around all settings again

I only changed a few settings and they appear to have stuck. I set it to free play, and turned off the bonus ball, which I think can be a bit confusing at a show. I'm bringing the game to Expo on Thursday.

Sorry it was F5 solenoid fuse. It turn out to be a bad underplayfield relay associated with the large yellow drop targets.
Replayed relay and is nolonger blowing fuses.

Alright guys I've got a weird one with my Farfalla. Game boots up goes into attract mode. I credit it up hit the start button, it says the starting audio "Lets see what you can do!" then everything just stops. No solenoids fire, flippers dont work, playfield lights just stop. Then game seems to totally freeze after the start button is pushed. Where do I start looking first?

This is probably a stupid question, but where is the ball when you attempt to start a game? The game won't officially start unless there is a ball is sitting in the trough. Even if it's in the shooter lane, you have to drain the ball for the sounds to start, the drop targets to reset, etc ...

check the fuses under the playfield. There are 2 by the flippers.

No stupid questions. There is a ball in the trough.

I dont think I noticed two by the flippers I will give this a look after I get off work in a bit.

Then I guess my second question would be, is the trough switch correctly sensing the ball?

You nailed it. Game fired right up. Now new problems have shown themselves. Pop bumpers aren’t firing when hit but work in test and I’m missing tons of audio.

Is DIP switch 4 on the MPU set to OFF? It should be in gameplay.

Yes it is. After playing a couple games it seems that I have speech but nothing else

all fuses test good? not just by looking? If no coils are firing under the playfield, sounds like you have fuses blown. Test with a meter, while one side is pulled out. I bet your fuse clips are shot and fatigued. You will know when you put the fuse back in and it splits wide open.

Hey guys. Picked up a Robot to repair for someone, and looks like i will get a non working Stars Phoenix for pretty cheap as payment for the repair.

Got some gremlins sorted with the Robot, however it is blowing Fuse F5 when i go into the light test (test 3). Putting a resettable fuse in there, all the coils work fine in the coil test, however it blows after a few seconds in the lamp test consistently.

Wasn't really sure where to look, however i noticed that a blue spark comes from 1 of the relays in the lower right section of the power supply board. I'm a little more confused though, as searching some old threads suggests this is a flipper relay https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/0e0ruYT5g08 so not sure why it bows in lamp test?

Anyway, i unsoldered the wires going to the left flipper, and now it tests fine without blowing the fuse. I can play a game and it works fine, except of course no left flipper. Is it safe to assume the coil or diode is the culprit, rather than the relay?

flipper coils are different than regular coils. they have a different fuse. So if it's blowing in coil test, it might be a bad regular coil. best way is to disconnect all the left side connectors off the power supply board, and leave the bottom right connector. Test all your voltages first and see what you have going on. also see if it blows the fuse with nothing connected.

Thats what is confusing me. The F5 fuse is not blowing in coil test, only in the light test. Neither of which should be influenced by the left flipper coil. If i start a game with the left flipper connected, as soon as you hit the flipper it blows the fuse (which then means no coils work).