I can’t change audits correctly. I can’t see anything in the displays. They just stay on 2s. I will have to recheck the voltages on the PS. At one point when I first started working on the game they were all good

TP 1 and 5 were low. Everything else was good

that was with everything on the left unplugged off the PS board?

Nope. I suck

Tp1 159
Tp2 15
Tp3 5.8
Tp4 5.7
Tp5 42
Tp6 -6

those seem good. The displays one seems low tho. usually I get 170-179 with no load. But should be booting. with the connector that goes from the upper left of the PS board, to the 4 prong of the MPU board, what are your readings there?

I don’t know. Something blew up last night. For some reason there is continuity throughout the whole board now. I’m done. I need to send the boards out to someone to repair.

Hi, I own 3 Zac's, Nautilus, Devil Riders, and Aerobatics. I imported Devil Riders and Aerobatics from Italy, Aerobatics is the rarer Add-a-Ball version and is now shopped and fully working except for the flasher board, which Marcos will be selling soon. I haven't unwrapped DR yet, but is not suppose to be non-booting, so it will be a fun project when i get to it. Nautilus will cycle indef when the ball enters the mid right kickout pocket (most of the time) and sometime when it drains. I cleaned all the switches in the reset motor and Jones plugs and everything in btween, so I need to do more research to find the issue.

Aerobatics (resized).jpg

Aerobatics BBC (resized).jpg

Anyone has a spare CPU board to sell:

1B1110/0

Thank you

I finished my Zaccaria pop bumper restoration: remade the body ring art and printed waterslide decals. Once applied and dry, I sprayed lite coats of clear to lock it in.
The caps are a 2 part stencil. I scuffed the top of the cap and applied the stencil. Then sprayed very lite coats of paint in multiple coats (5or6). Then I peeled off the stencil when it was still a bit tacky.
Once dry I did the same with the Z stencil. Then cleared to lock it in.
These where applied to standard gottlieb bodies and caps.
The results look great! Good solution to an unobtainium part.
If you want to restore your own, PM me for the tools to do this.

B3548CE0-6CCF-4CD7-AF5F-9A2AEBEF04BD (resized).jpeg

191FF439-15F8-4658-A7D9-5731FC0B0561 (resized).jpeg

E9629A06-E570-49F5-A9A2-1CFB3A47431D (resized).jpeg

1AE760DA-C1C4-4C96-81F6-DFEF62554625 (resized).jpeg

EEE9B5E7-DAE6-4F48-AF56-E8D6141A9265 (resized).jpeg

The flasher board is being made now! I have tested the prototype and it works great. I will be testing the sound board/speaker here shortly. I would rather ship all to Marco at once.

Hey Guys,
Are there any Farfalla owners here that need some parts?

I have a rare upper playfield (lucite) in very nice shape and I think I have at least 3 or 4 pop bumper assemblies. Most of them with the flower caps and bodies intact.
There is also the plastic that wraps around the yellow targets on the upper playfield. It's almost always broken. This one is intact and in very nice shape as well. Might have some other bits and pieces.

Shoot me a PM if interested and make me an offer. I've owned two Farfalla and sold them. I'd like the parts to go to good use.

Also, I will be in Allentown for Pinfest and can bring to the show.

I need a Farfalla backbox insert and maybe a good backglass.

I want to change my Farfalla to LED's is this strait forward and just change out the bulbs to LED?

Also what LED's are a good kind/type for this.

....

Anyone looking for a Robot

Putting it on sale soon for $2500

This is probably at the top of my list but I live in Texas. What sort of condition is it in?

PM sent

Hi all

Robot is sold already
Someone jumped on it

I hope the game wasnt too damaged from the jumping...

Hi, First try I made with normal LED bulbs wasn't that good

I'm now waiting for new bulbs which should be specific for pinball machines, I'll see how it goes.

Hi All:
I have a question about my Spooky.
Several years ago, I rebuilt my Spooky with a lot of generous assistance from David and Frank @luvthatapex2. It was missing the back glass, so Frank helped me with getting a translite printed. When I cut out the holes for the displays, the translate matched up with the top 3 displays, and the owl eyes, but not the bottom 2 displays. They were too low.
Lesson learned. Back then, in my impatience to get this guy running, I think I should have measured first and modified the location of the displays in backboard to fit the location in the translite. I’d like to get this corrected and either put in a proper back glass or get another translite printed. I’ve long given up getting an original back glass. Has anyone had experience with “one-off” reproduction back glasses? I seems these days BGresto does this sort of thing. They don’t have Spooky listed, but David’s site has the scans. Sorry if this seems like a basic question. I’ve been out of the hobby for several years and now just getting back in. Catching up with everything I’ve forgotten.

Spooky Translite (resized).jpg

I would drop the bottom displays a bit

With that said Bgresto does a great job
Just have patience’s for about a year

Thanks for the advice. I've had this translate for many years now, so what's another year . Need to get one for Pool Champion as well, so we'll see how they do with Spooky first.

So that being said what would be the correct bulbs for a farfalla?

I would not talk about good bulbs for Farfalla but more about LED bulbs for Zaccaria G2 games.

I have never used them, except the ones I have tested which were not designed for pinball machines, I have even thought I could have developed some boards to convert the ZZZ driver boards to LED bulbs compatible boards but I decided not to go into this kind of project right now.

So to answer your question, I think that pinball machines designed LED bulbs you can find on specialized pinball machines websites should fit your needs but if you want to have my confirmation you have to wait a bit because my bulbs are being delivered next week.

Gianfri

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting bulbs are your best bet. I would get all warm white clear lens #44 for inserts and GI.

Frosted lens is what I usually use for backglass. Mostly white, with some accents of color where needed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Very nice, thanks!

Comets, 2 SMB daylight white frosted bulbs work great for all zac Gi's. I use them in most of my zacs. No need for non ghosting for GI's. use 1 smb for inserts, thou you do get a random flicker here or there, but nothing horrible.

Thanks!

Finally some direct experience feedbacks.

additional questions:

Why frosted for the Backglass? Any specific reason? too strong otherwise?
For the warm white I imagine is just to keep the classic old style aspect.
I was thinking that cool white would be good for inserts to make them brighter.

Any opinion?

Frosted disperses the light and blends together. If you use a clear lens, you'll get a halo of light showing where every bulb is located.

White choice is personal preference. I try to avoid Cool, as this has a blue hue to it. It looks fine in space theme games, but in others, not so much.
Comet natural white is about as pure white as you can get and what I use for almost everything. Sunlight has a slight yellow hue. Then warm has a bit more yellow; closer to incandescent.

Which brings me to colors, because you'll likely ask. Get 2 SMD frosted, blue, red, green and passion purple.
Don't bother with yellow and orange as warm white will accomplish this. regular purple 2SMD is more pinkish. Ice blue is a duller version of regular blue and I've never bought Cyan.
I'm referencing Comet bulbs with this, so your results my differ depending on what supplier you use.

yes, I like it for light dispersion. Distributes light better and more naturally.

Thanks guys for your feedback!

I'm looking forward to get mine, I'm currently getting them from a factory which would like to start some business with me therefore I'm getting some samples of 5 different models with 2 different whites.
Currently not looking for colored bulbs as I don't have the time to play with it but I'll see later.
Let's see if these bulbs are doing their jobs as described.

Gianfri

Anyone here do Zac board repairs?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/toasty-zac-time-machine

David used to. Not sure if he still does. http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/

Doesn’t look like he’s updated his site since last October but not unusual for him

Got a reply from him. He is still doing Zac board repair. Good to know!

Hi All, Proud owner of a Gen 1 Locomotion with an amzing playfield. It was not working when i got it, so cleaned up some old battery corrosion and got it functioning fine, then a month or so later it just stopped working. Since then i have double checked my clean up work around the ROM chips, and all tracks seem to buzz out OK for continuity.

I found that the machine powers up, displays 0's on all the displays, however i cannot get into any diagnostics or coin up. So i assumed the switch matrix was stuffed, replaced both IC 40 and IC41, and now the machine will go into diagnostics....however is showing some strange behaviour. In the switch test, the switches work - partiularly i tested the coin switch and start button which are good. However, when i try to add a credit and start a game outside of the test, nothing seems to work.

The other strange thing, is that when i get to diagnostic test 4, all coils seem to fire together, and then the displays go blank.

Any suggestions on where to look or what to try?

david still does

http://zaccaria-pinball.com/

I'm back with some testing of the new bulbs I received recently and I must say that I don't like the result when not installed on GI sockets.

Here you have the video I made, not easy to see the difference but it's clear that all LEDs bulbs on non-controlled GI sockets are perfectly working but the ones which are controlled by the driver board are slightly flickering and therefore are not that nice to me.
Must say that the power board I'm using here has not been totally refurbished therefore it could be also due to this but not really sure about that either.

So I confirm and agree with Neo, no need for expensive ones if installed on GI but for the rest...

Did you add any resistors to the controlled lamp circuits like what's commonly done with the classic Bally/Stern games when using LEDs being driven by SCRs?

Hi,

of course not
my intention was to test them as they are and without any mod.
I know that a resistor can be added and I event thought to produce some specific modules for Zaccaria but I don't think it's a good idea.

The only thing I haven't tried is the non-gosthing one to see if the do the job.

thanks anyway for your suggestion because this helps me understanding better which way to follow.

Gianfri

I get the random flicker in my zacs control lamps as well. I dont' mind it and after while I don't even notice it.

I know that this machine and manufacturer are kind of the stepchild of Zaccaria machines, but I have a Thunder Man by Apple Time from Milan, Italy, 1987.

I am trying to get this thing to the Allentown show next weekend.

There are three coils that fire about every other second or so in either attract mode or gameplay. They do this constantly. Switches are open. It's almost as though the game were in a partial coil test mode. No schematics or manual available. If this were a Zaccaria, Bally, GTB or Williams machine, where would you suggest I look?

Thanks for your help,

Alan (Alain)

make sure you are using the right MPU board. Thunderman's MPU board looks like a standard gen 2 board, but it is not.

Hi all,

some time ago I promised to post some pictures of my Zaccaria Universe but to be honest I totally forgot

here they are:

20180506_152331 (resized).jpg

20180506_152354 (resized).jpg

20180506_152416 (resized).jpg

Need a couple 7 digit Zac score displays (complete.) Any for sale? direct email please [email protected]

Original or led?