(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

7 years ago


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There are 2,519 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 51.
#951 3 years ago

I can’t change audits correctly. I can’t see anything in the displays. They just stay on 2s. I will have to recheck the voltages on the PS. At one point when I first started working on the game they were all good

#952 3 years ago

TP 1 and 5 were low. Everything else was good

#953 3 years ago

that was with everything on the left unplugged off the PS board?

#955 3 years ago

Tp1 159
Tp2 15
Tp3 5.8
Tp4 5.7
Tp5 42
Tp6 -6

#956 3 years ago

those seem good. The displays one seems low tho. usually I get 170-179 with no load. But should be booting. with the connector that goes from the upper left of the PS board, to the 4 prong of the MPU board, what are your readings there?

#957 3 years ago

I don’t know. Something blew up last night. For some reason there is continuity throughout the whole board now. I’m done. I need to send the boards out to someone to repair.

#958 3 years ago

Hi, I own 3 Zac's, Nautilus, Devil Riders, and Aerobatics. I imported Devil Riders and Aerobatics from Italy, Aerobatics is the rarer Add-a-Ball version and is now shopped and fully working except for the flasher board, which Marcos will be selling soon. I haven't unwrapped DR yet, but is not suppose to be non-booting, so it will be a fun project when i get to it. Nautilus will cycle indef when the ball enters the mid right kickout pocket (most of the time) and sometime when it drains. I cleaned all the switches in the reset motor and Jones plugs and everything in btween, so I need to do more research to find the issue.

Aerobatics (resized).jpg

Aerobatics BBC (resized).jpg

1 month later
#959 3 years ago

Anyone has a spare CPU board to sell:

1B1110/0

Thank you

#960 3 years ago

I finished my Zaccaria pop bumper restoration: remade the body ring art and printed waterslide decals. Once applied and dry, I sprayed lite coats of clear to lock it in.
The caps are a 2 part stencil. I scuffed the top of the cap and applied the stencil. Then sprayed very lite coats of paint in multiple coats (5or6). Then I peeled off the stencil when it was still a bit tacky.
Once dry I did the same with the Z stencil. Then cleared to lock it in.
These where applied to standard gottlieb bodies and caps.
The results look great! Good solution to an unobtainium part.
If you want to restore your own, PM me for the tools to do this.

B3548CE0-6CCF-4CD7-AF5F-9A2AEBEF04BD (resized).jpeg

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#961 3 years ago
Quoted from blkmach:

except for the flasher board, which Marcos will be selling soon.

The flasher board is being made now! I have tested the prototype and it works great. I will be testing the sound board/speaker here shortly. I would rather ship all to Marco at once.

#962 3 years ago

Hey Guys,
Are there any Farfalla owners here that need some parts?

I have a rare upper playfield (lucite) in very nice shape and I think I have at least 3 or 4 pop bumper assemblies. Most of them with the flower caps and bodies intact.
There is also the plastic that wraps around the yellow targets on the upper playfield. It's almost always broken. This one is intact and in very nice shape as well. Might have some other bits and pieces.

Shoot me a PM if interested and make me an offer. I've owned two Farfalla and sold them. I'd like the parts to go to good use.

Also, I will be in Allentown for Pinfest and can bring to the show.

#963 3 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

Hey Guys,
Are there any Farfalla owners here that need some parts?
I have a rare upper playfield (lucite) in very nice shape and I think I have at least 3 or 4 pop bumper assemblies. Most of them with the flower caps and bodies intact.
There is also the plastic that wraps around the yellow targets on the upper playfield. It's almost always broken. This one is intact and in very nice shape as well. Might have some other bits and pieces.
Shoot me a PM if interested and make me an offer. I've owned two Farfalla and sold them. I'd like the parts to go to good use.
Also, I will be in Allentown for Pinfest and can bring to the show.

I need a Farfalla backbox insert and maybe a good backglass.

#964 3 years ago

I want to change my Farfalla to LED's is this strait forward and just change out the bulbs to LED?

Also what LED's are a good kind/type for this.

#965 3 years ago

....

#966 3 years ago

Anyone looking for a Robot

Putting it on sale soon for $2500

#967 3 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Anyone looking for a Robot
Putting it on sale soon for $2500

This is probably at the top of my list but I live in Texas. What sort of condition is it in?

#968 3 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Anyone looking for a Robot
Putting it on sale soon for $2500

PM sent

#969 3 years ago

Hi all

Robot is sold already
Someone jumped on it

#970 3 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Hi all
Robot is sold already
Someone jumped on it

I hope the game wasnt too damaged from the jumping...

#971 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I want to change my Farfalla to LED's is this strait forward and just change out the bulbs to LED?
Also what LED's are a good kind/type for this.

Hi, First try I made with normal LED bulbs wasn't that good

I'm now waiting for new bulbs which should be specific for pinball machines, I'll see how it goes.

#972 3 years ago

Hi All:
I have a question about my Spooky.
Several years ago, I rebuilt my Spooky with a lot of generous assistance from David and Frank luvthatapex2. It was missing the back glass, so Frank helped me with getting a translite printed. When I cut out the holes for the displays, the translate matched up with the top 3 displays, and the owl eyes, but not the bottom 2 displays. They were too low.
Lesson learned. Back then, in my impatience to get this guy running, I think I should have measured first and modified the location of the displays in backboard to fit the location in the translite. I’d like to get this corrected and either put in a proper back glass or get another translite printed. I’ve long given up getting an original back glass. Has anyone had experience with “one-off” reproduction back glasses? I seems these days BGresto does this sort of thing. They don’t have Spooky listed, but David’s site has the scans. Sorry if this seems like a basic question. I’ve been out of the hobby for several years and now just getting back in. Catching up with everything I’ve forgotten.

Spooky Translite (resized).jpg

#973 3 years ago

I would drop the bottom displays a bit

#974 3 years ago

With that said Bgresto does a great job
Just have patience’s for about a year

#975 3 years ago

Thanks for the advice. I've had this translate for many years now, so what's another year . Need to get one for Pool Champion as well, so we'll see how they do with Spooky first.

#976 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Hi, First try I made with normal LED bulbs wasn't that good
I'm now waiting for new bulbs which should be specific for pinball machines, I'll see how it goes.

So that being said what would be the correct bulbs for a farfalla?

#977 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So that being said what would be the correct bulbs for a farfalla?

I would not talk about good bulbs for Farfalla but more about LED bulbs for Zaccaria G2 games.

I have never used them, except the ones I have tested which were not designed for pinball machines, I have even thought I could have developed some boards to convert the ZZZ driver boards to LED bulbs compatible boards but I decided not to go into this kind of project right now.

So to answer your question, I think that pinball machines designed LED bulbs you can find on specialized pinball machines websites should fit your needs but if you want to have my confirmation you have to wait a bit because my bulbs are being delivered next week.

Gianfri

#978 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I want to change my Farfalla to LED's is this strait forward and just change out the bulbs to LED?
Also what LED's are a good kind/type for this.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting bulbs are your best bet. I would get all warm white clear lens #44 for inserts and GI.

Frosted lens is what I usually use for backglass. Mostly white, with some accents of color where needed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

#979 3 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting bulbs are your best bet. I would get all warm white clear lens #44 for inserts and GI.
Frosted lens is what I usually use for backglass. Mostly white, with some accents of color where needed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Very nice, thanks!

#980 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So that being said what would be the correct bulbs for a farfalla?

Comets, 2 SMB daylight white frosted bulbs work great for all zac Gi's. I use them in most of my zacs. No need for non ghosting for GI's. use 1 smb for inserts, thou you do get a random flicker here or there, but nothing horrible.

#981 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Comets, 2 SMB daylight white frosted bulbs work great for all zac Gi's. I use them in most of my zacs. No need for non ghosting for GI's. use 1 smb for inserts, thou you do get a random flicker here or there, but nothing horrible.

Thanks!

#982 3 years ago

Finally some direct experience feedbacks.

additional questions:

Why frosted for the Backglass? Any specific reason? too strong otherwise?
For the warm white I imagine is just to keep the classic old style aspect.
I was thinking that cool white would be good for inserts to make them brighter.

Any opinion?

#983 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

Why frosted for the Backglass?

Frosted disperses the light and blends together. If you use a clear lens, you'll get a halo of light showing where every bulb is located.

Quoted from gianfri:

warm white I imagine is just to keep the classic old style aspect.

White choice is personal preference. I try to avoid Cool, as this has a blue hue to it. It looks fine in space theme games, but in others, not so much.
Comet natural white is about as pure white as you can get and what I use for almost everything. Sunlight has a slight yellow hue. Then warm has a bit more yellow; closer to incandescent.

Which brings me to colors, because you'll likely ask. Get 2 SMD frosted, blue, red, green and passion purple.
Don't bother with yellow and orange as warm white will accomplish this. regular purple 2SMD is more pinkish. Ice blue is a duller version of regular blue and I've never bought Cyan.
I'm referencing Comet bulbs with this, so your results my differ depending on what supplier you use.

#984 3 years ago

yes, I like it for light dispersion. Distributes light better and more naturally.

#985 3 years ago

Thanks guys for your feedback!

I'm looking forward to get mine, I'm currently getting them from a factory which would like to start some business with me therefore I'm getting some samples of 5 different models with 2 different whites.
Currently not looking for colored bulbs as I don't have the time to play with it but I'll see later.
Let's see if these bulbs are doing their jobs as described.

Gianfri

1 week later
#987 3 years ago

David used to. Not sure if he still does. http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/

Doesn’t look like he’s updated his site since last October but not unusual for him

#988 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeplainfield:

David used to. Not sure if he still does. http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/

Doesn’t look like he’s updated his site since last October but not unusual for him

Got a reply from him. He is still doing Zac board repair. Good to know!

#989 3 years ago

Hi All, Proud owner of a Gen 1 Locomotion with an amzing playfield. It was not working when i got it, so cleaned up some old battery corrosion and got it functioning fine, then a month or so later it just stopped working. Since then i have double checked my clean up work around the ROM chips, and all tracks seem to buzz out OK for continuity.

I found that the machine powers up, displays 0's on all the displays, however i cannot get into any diagnostics or coin up. So i assumed the switch matrix was stuffed, replaced both IC 40 and IC41, and now the machine will go into diagnostics....however is showing some strange behaviour. In the switch test, the switches work - partiularly i tested the coin switch and start button which are good. However, when i try to add a credit and start a game outside of the test, nothing seems to work.

The other strange thing, is that when i get to diagnostic test 4, all coils seem to fire together, and then the displays go blank.

Any suggestions on where to look or what to try?

2 weeks later
#991 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Comets, 2 SMB daylight white frosted bulbs work great for all zac Gi's. I use them in most of my zacs. No need for non ghosting for GI's. use 1 smb for inserts, thou you do get a random flicker here or there, but nothing horrible.

I'm back with some testing of the new bulbs I received recently and I must say that I don't like the result when not installed on GI sockets.

Here you have the video I made, not easy to see the difference but it's clear that all LEDs bulbs on non-controlled GI sockets are perfectly working but the ones which are controlled by the driver board are slightly flickering and therefore are not that nice to me.
Must say that the power board I'm using here has not been totally refurbished therefore it could be also due to this but not really sure about that either.

So I confirm and agree with Neo, no need for expensive ones if installed on GI but for the rest...

#992 3 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

but the ones which are controlled by the driver board are slightly flickering

Did you add any resistors to the controlled lamp circuits like what's commonly done with the classic Bally/Stern games when using LEDs being driven by SCRs?

#993 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Did you add any resistors to the controlled lamp circuits like what's commonly done with the classic Bally/Stern games when using LEDs being driven by SCRs?

Hi,

of course not
my intention was to test them as they are and without any mod.
I know that a resistor can be added and I event thought to produce some specific modules for Zaccaria but I don't think it's a good idea.

The only thing I haven't tried is the non-gosthing one to see if the do the job.

thanks anyway for your suggestion because this helps me understanding better which way to follow.

Gianfri

#994 3 years ago

I get the random flicker in my zacs control lamps as well. I dont' mind it and after while I don't even notice it.

#995 3 years ago

I know that this machine and manufacturer are kind of the stepchild of Zaccaria machines, but I have a Thunder Man by Apple Time from Milan, Italy, 1987.

I am trying to get this thing to the Allentown show next weekend.

There are three coils that fire about every other second or so in either attract mode or gameplay. They do this constantly. Switches are open. It's almost as though the game were in a partial coil test mode. No schematics or manual available. If this were a Zaccaria, Bally, GTB or Williams machine, where would you suggest I look?

Thanks for your help,

Alan (Alain)

#996 3 years ago

make sure you are using the right MPU board. Thunderman's MPU board looks like a standard gen 2 board, but it is not.

1 week later
#997 3 years ago

Hi all,

some time ago I promised to post some pictures of my Zaccaria Universe but to be honest I totally forgot

here they are:

20180506_152331 (resized).jpg

20180506_152354 (resized).jpg

20180506_152416 (resized).jpg

#999 3 years ago

Need a couple 7 digit Zac score displays (complete.) Any for sale? direct email please [email protected]

#1000 3 years ago
Quoted from cfh:

Need a couple 7 digit Zac score displays (complete.) Any for sale? direct email please [email protected]

Original or led?

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