What is the best place to get free play roms for Farfalla?
And how difficult is it to install?
(Topic ID: 79389)
Linked Games
Aerobatics
Zaccaria, 1977-
Blackbelt
Zaccaria, 1986
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Circus
Zaccaria, 1977
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Clown
Zaccaria, 1985
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Combat
Zaccaria, 1977
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Devil Riders
Zaccaria, 1984
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Earth Wind & Fire
Zaccaria, 1981
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Farfalla
Zaccaria, 1983
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Quoted from CaptainNeo:Anyone with a burner. Dave has them on his site for download. If you have a burner you can do it yourself, or order them from dave directly. Easy. pop out 2 or 3 chips, and install the new ones. takes about 5 -10 min. Make sure all the legs are in the holes before pushing it down and make sure they are in the right way and in the correct order. That's it.
Thx I have a burner but I think Ill be lazy and order them.
7 months later
I'm still looking for a new backbox insert for my green girl farfalla.
Or some way to fix her worn away nose and some other small wear areas.
Does anyone even do this type of meticulous repair?
A new backglass for it is also on my wish list...
Bgresto will do do my glass but hasnt commited to mirror paint yet and I like the mirror part of it, dont want a paint-over...
3 weeks later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:send me a pics of it, let me see how bad it is
I absolutely will maybe next week.
1 month later
Quoted from Archieball:Hi fellow Zac owners! I have a weird problem with my Farfalla, and in case it is something small and stupid I thought I'd ask here first before I make a dedicated thread. The right ball save flipper ("right kicker flipper" in the schems) does not work. It does, however, work fine in the coil test. The associated switch in the right outer exit canal (24) checks out fine as well in the switch test.
Am I looking at a CPU problem, or is there something else I should be looking at here? There are no other problems with the game.
Thanks!
Archieball
Does it work as a single flip after the drops are hit and its enabled?
It only does a single flip when it is enabled so you have to get good at it.
2 months later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:Clown and Pool champion showed up for the collection. Both are shopped out and playing. Pool champion still has the sound out, but clown is fully up and running.
My gen 2 Collection is almost complete. Only 2 more to go, and I have a full set. (mexico 86 and Blackbelt). One is fairly common in Europe, the other is fairly common here. Except the people in europe don't like to ship overseas. Or at all it seems. Found 6 mexico 86's and nobody will ship, even within the continent. :/
That clown is the scariest, freakiest clown ever! lol
9 months later
Quoted from Drano:Hey Guys,
Are there any Farfalla owners here that need some parts?
I have a rare upper playfield (lucite) in very nice shape and I think I have at least 3 or 4 pop bumper assemblies. Most of them with the flower caps and bodies intact.
There is also the plastic that wraps around the yellow targets on the upper playfield. It's almost always broken. This one is intact and in very nice shape as well. Might have some other bits and pieces.
Shoot me a PM if interested and make me an offer. I've owned two Farfalla and sold them. I'd like the parts to go to good use.
Also, I will be in Allentown for Pinfest and can bring to the show.
I need a Farfalla backbox insert and maybe a good backglass.
I want to change my Farfalla to LED's is this strait forward and just change out the bulbs to LED?
Also what LED's are a good kind/type for this.
Quoted from rvdv:Hi all
Robot is sold already
Someone jumped on it
I hope the game wasnt too damaged from the jumping... 
Quoted from gianfri:Hi, First try I made with normal LED bulbs wasn't that good
I'm now waiting for new bulbs which should be specific for pinball machines, I'll see how it goes.
So that being said what would be the correct bulbs for a farfalla?
Quoted from brenna98:http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting bulbs are your best bet. I would get all warm white clear lens #44 for inserts and GI.
Frosted lens is what I usually use for backglass. Mostly white, with some accents of color where needed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
Very nice, thanks!
Quoted from CaptainNeo:Comets, 2 SMB daylight white frosted bulbs work great for all zac Gi's. I use them in most of my zacs. No need for non ghosting for GI's. use 1 smb for inserts, thou you do get a random flicker here or there, but nothing horrible.
Thanks!
1 year later
Quoted from kbliznick:The lockbar is the same as a Williams. The Williams receiver might work, but not sure if it has different cabinet mounting holes.
So if the lock bar is the same, that would infer that the lock bar receiver is the same?
Can anyone verify this?
Different mounting holes are not a problem etc.
What system version William's lock bar and reciever do I order?
And do the Williams siderails/cabinet buttons also fit?
Quoted from kbliznick:infer what you want. The lock bars are 100% identical, the receivers are definitely not, but still might work. The handle is differently shaped and I don't see the carriage bolts attaching it through the wood on the Zac. Not sure if it's the same width or thickness or has the pf hanger notches in the same place. Williams lock bars were the same from at some point in the 1970's EM era (not sure what they they started) all the way through 1999 (except widebody and Pin2K). Spooky and JJP also use the Williams lockbars.
So I should take a serious look at Williams system 11 lock down bar recievers?
I'll see if the one on my Diner matches up.
I want to replace the flipper buttons on the cabinet for my Farfalla.
Are they standard williams/bally? What generation?
Thanks.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:These are regular buttons. Just the usual ones like nowadays stern, jjp...
If you look above at the pic of my farfalla you will see I swapped mines with clear, illuminated buttons.
Great! I bought a bag of assorted colors at TPF.
2 weeks later
Quoted from play_pinball:More Spooky questions:
Everyone has said we needed a step up/down transformer for this game but looking at the transformer in here, is there a reason it couldn’t be rewired down and a new plug attached? Not sure I’m understanding why other owners have stated that this cannot be rewired since it has the extra lugs to do it.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Its not magical, if the voltage/amperage coming off the tap is correct for the circuit, you are good to go.
Quoted from ViperJelly:I put leds in mine and it looks good. Maybe some occasional ghosting but nothing too crazy. GI in warm white then color match inserts to the shot. Don't have any great pics as I usually only do that wen i am getting ready to sell You can kind of see it in the pic below linked below.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1XjTGrgTwARYR7an9
Edit: I will also mention I did the rainbow in multicolor and I think it looks sharp.
Non-ghosting led's?
Is there a fix one could do for the ghosting?
What about NoFlix led's?
Quoted from jeffk:I used the Ablaze 1-LED Flat Tops and Ablaze 3-LED from Pinball Life, I don't notice any ghosting.
I matched inserts except in front of targets, I made the orange targets orange, the blue targets blue, etc.
I made the rainbow trail multicolored, started out with 3 LED in the rainbow but that was too bright for me, so I switched to the 1 LED Flat Tops. I have a 4-SMD red for the Multi-Special and put a 1-SMD flex under the raised playfield to add a little more light back there.
I have a parts list if anyone is interested.
Sounds beautiful!
PM me your parts list please.
And I'll order all the bulbs.
Or email me the doc
3 months later
Quoted from swampwiz:Farfalla owners, do you prefer the modest or sexy backbox overlay art? I have the modest one, like this one being offered at eBay.
ebay.com link
I tend to think that the modest one goes better with the theme of "innocent love" that is depicted as a young, fully-clothed couple on the bridge.
Im looking for the Green Lady one. Mine is a bit cracked up and she needs a nose job....
So if anyone has a spare one in good shape, please contact me via PM.
Quoted from HHaase:Looks like a 'clothed farfalla' inner backglass just popped up on ebay this morning.
Didn't give it a close look, since I'm not in the market, but it's there.
-Hans
Pinballgoddess thinks the blue girl looks like a cheerleader and is not impressed, or I'd get it.
She likes the green butterfly goddess woman a lot better.
1 month later
Farfalla apron cards just hit:
Coindropper is amazing!
Time to restore my farfalla.
It's pretty rough.
I started it today after it sat for a few years.
It boots! But no neon.
Loud hum in speakers.
Everything is a bit corroded.
Playfield starting to plank. Will need clearcoaring I think.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:See if you can get it running before worrying about the playfield.
Will do.
I'll work on it a bit on Friday and saturday.
Start doing a cleaning and checklist/checkup.
Game was playing fine before is sat a bit. Lol
Poking around my farfalla today.
It's really in desperate need of cleaning throughout.
Years of cigarettes and neglect!
So that's where I will start lol
20191025_094226 (resized).jpg20191025_094230 (resized).jpg20191025_095529 (resized).jpg
Lockdown reciever and coindoor are really corroded.
Electronics are crispy and filthy.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:david gersic can make you ribbon cables you need. Zaccaria-pinball.com
I was just going to ask that!
Cleaned and inspected the power supply board.
I found 2 blown fuses.
F1 and f5
Replaced fuses and installed 4 screws with star washers, now the game boots.
Also the neon is now working!
Evidently all of the screws are missing and all of the boards are held on the old cracking nylon posts.
Someone in the past was afraid of the ground plane it seems.
So I have good audio and a booting, functioning game with neon!
Not bad for a couple hours today.
Quoted from Alan_L:Pinballinreno, take some close up pics of all the connectors, many have extra uncovered header pins and sometimes there are no keying plugs in the plastic connector housings. Plugging in one pin off can cause some issues you don't want.
You also might want to think about losing that battery, NVRAM is plug and play on this board I believe, no soldering.
Have fun, a great machine.
I did see bent over clear plastic pins that once worked lol
Are replacement pins available?
It would be good to replace these if I can.
I'm being careful about plug locations, pics etc.
About the battery:
I absolutely want to replace/remove it.
Is there a kit or thread on this?
Can you point me in a direction?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I was just going to ask that!
Put my long ribbon in the sonic cleaner for 20 mins.
Its clean now, tar stained, but not sticky any more.
Its ok for now.
Quoted from pinball_ric:Yikes.. Yeah it looks like someone epoxied your pop bumpers closed. No there are no replacements. You're going to have to try to find someone who's parted one out.
I'm hoping I can exacto them off and restore them maybe?
Lol
I'm really excited about this game!
I think I'm going to clearcoat the playfield for longevity.
It'll play like a rocket when done lol.
Anyone have some farfalla bumper caps, please let me know!
Also my coindoor and lockdown reciever is super corroded.
If you have anything to contribute font hesitate to contact me!
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Not necessary. The clear coat on the Zaccaria games is super durable. Clean it up and you’ll see
I have 2 playfields.
The clear is gone on the one currently in the game. Its super dull after cleaning.
I'll try a little light buffing and some wax.
There is wood graining appearing all over.
A couple cracks are also apperaing.
A lot of inserts are cracked.
The second one is in pretty good shape.
The clear is very thin and wearing out.
Wood graining is appearing in some areas with some splitting of the surface.
It will need clearcoar to preserve what's there.
Can i get replacement inserts?
I can probably harvest inserts from one playfield to the other
They look very fragile, I can see ruining them if pulled out.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:clear cannot be gone. Just scuffed up from balls with dings on them. it's there and can be buffed back to mirror shine. it it was in high humidity environments, and had graining throughout, then you will probably want to swap.
Yep.
All of the massive corrosion throughout indicates a high humidity environment.
The worse of the 2 playfields has a lot more graining evident.
I'm shopping it out to get it 100% running before the rebuild.
I want to see it play and run some led tests ss well as go through and check all the mechs in PF 1.
The better of the 2 playfields has very slight grain showing and very little wear. The mechs look really in good shape!
I'll put a coat of clear on it and replace inserts, to preserve it, before the swap.
Quoted from gianfri:Congratualtions!
In case of need for the future, here the ribbon cables:
https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/zaccaria-ribbon-cable-for-cpu-mpu/
For the sound card you cleaned, did you use the ultrasonic cleaner or something else?
I used a degreaser called Krud Cutter, and a toothbrush.
(I dont have any circuit board cleaner for my sonic cleaner and worried about residue and corrosion on the pots and dip switches.
It's currently loaded up with purple power. )
This worked surprisingly well.
Rinsed with CRC electronic spray.
Dried with warm air electronic Duster blower.
I put the ribbons in the sonic cleaner.
They still fits tight, so it's ok for now.
Quoted from Inkochnito:I think there is a NVRAM available for the 6514 ram chip.
Check out the Pinitech website.
https://www.pinitech.com/products/5114_nvram.php
Sadly not available for Farfalla
I totally scrubbed clean PF 1 and the plasticd in the game and put all new rubbers!
Also I installed 2smd frosted sunlight LEDs in the GI and pop bumpers. All bulbs in the pops were burnt out.
With the caps glued on there was no way to replace them lol.
Looks way better! No ghosting or flickering.
The #51 bulb in the center drop target probably needs a led.
What would be a good replacement?
I haven't cleaned up any of the mechs yet.
But the flippers seem weak?
I know they are only 39v.
But could use a little more power, in my opinion, to make it up the ramp better.
I'll rebuild them first and report back on this.
My stand up targets are all pretty toasted.
Its hard to read the text on the ones with lights behind them.
Has anyone replaced these?
What are they supposed to look like? I dont really have a reference.
I can get replacement translucent William's standups and put stickers maybe?
My "E" roll over barely works and a few of the inlane micro switches are very weak.
The have a hard time staying up, the springs seem weak.
Are there replacements for these?
So, I'm looking at the 35 year old nicad on the MPU board.
There are 4 ways to address this.
1) replace the battery with a fresh one.
2) install a memory capacitor.
3) install a remote battery holder and block the charging circuit with a diode?
4) get nvram (currently backordered?)
What about a coin battery holder?
And maybe cut the trace for the charging voltage or add a diode?
Has anyone done this?
Quoted from gianfri:Yes, it is.
The 5114 pinitech module is compatible with all Zaccaria G2 machines.
Some users experienced few flaws but it is still not clear where those flaws come from. (meaning that it appears as a strange behaviour)
I have few machines with the my own 6514 NVRAM module and I never experienced any problem but I'm not playing that much either.
Until now, I never got a negative feedback on those.
Regarding your question on what to use, if you want to replace the current 35y old battery with another battery you can use a simple ni-cd 3,6v battery pack and remotely connect it with a wire to avoid any possible acid leakage.
I was just quoting a probably outdated compatibility list from pintech's website. It says not available.
Thank you for this!
Will you have the nvram available again soon?
I can just put a remote ni cad in for now.
Quoted from gianfri:I'm currently producing them on demand so I can provide them when needed but to ship them overseas it's quite expensive.
I see.
Does anyone have them in the USA?
Quoted from gianfri:No, I do not have resellers.
Check with Wayne from Pinitech, it's probably the easiest option.
Ok will do.
Quoted from acebathound:Zaccaria G2 compatibility was pulled from the compatibility list on the single Pinitech 5114 nvram earlier this year, after some reports of random behavior on this thread (as people have mentioned). So the list is current & Zaccaria G2 is not listed as compatible. There was a thought that replacing BOTH 5114 rams on the board with single 5114 nvram modules might clear up the issues -- Hans tried that and it did clear up a lot of problems, but not all.
The dual module design seems to be the way to go on Zaccaria G2 at this time. These are single boards with one FRAM chip (instead of using two separate FRAM chips) that replace both 5114 nvram at once. So far, no reports of odd behavior using the dual modules. Links for info on the dual modules below, by both Pinball Solutions and BRINK.https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/nvram-dual-module-6514-2114/
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/products/brink/index.html
Thanks!
Definitely looks like the best solution if it becomes available.
Is there a led replacement for the #51 bulb on farfalla?
Or do I just put in a 2smd frosted?
It looks like 7.5v ?
The 6.3v led should handle it.
Going thru the game.
All contacts are sticky with tar.
They look pretty good after cleaning and polishing with flitz.
Got all switches working good.
The weak flipper problem went away after cleaning the burnt contacts on the cab buttons and flipper EOS.
I seem to have the wrong flipper coils:
20191028_115747 (resized).jpg20191028_115810 (resized).jpg
Should I just replace them with bally coils?
Or maybe replace the entire mechs with bally ones...and build new switches.
I want to rebuild my flippers.
Are the early bally rebuilds the way to go?
I have copper sleeves in my flipper coils that need changing, as well as plungers, links and coil stops.
Any help is appreciated!
Fixed the backbox lights and cleaned the insert and glass:
My game is missing the neon!
What I thought was neon was just the backbox lights failing lol.
Can someone guide me as to how to replace my missing parts?
I dont have a zaccaria game near me to copy from.
Before, fully lit lol:
20191029_112752 (resized).jpg
Cleaning off tar
20191029_145047 (resized).jpg
After cleaning.
20191029_151107 (resized).jpg
Some pics would really help me here if anyone has any.
I figure someone else has replaced what's needed on their game.
I would like to add it also.
Quoted from gianfri:Funny, your displays are wrong!
Farfalla uses 7 Digits displays with the same size/ratio of the Bally/Starn digits.
The ones you have are 8 digit from previous games (Soccer Kings and Pinball Champ) and that's why you have one digit which is not ON.
That's amazing! Lol
My game is #412
Will this affect gameplay?
If so I would change them out.
Well my game has had a hard life.
It's pretty rough but, im getting it running better every day.
Today I got the drop targets unfrozen on the upper playfield.
And added flipper buttons that dont stay down when pressed.
I put a few games on it and it's starting to play really good.
Still lots more cleaning. Haha!
20191029_173638 (resized).jpg
I just spoke to a guy who used to do celluloid slide restoration.
20191030_132309 (resized).jpg
He says I might have a good touch up result with laser printed
White waterslide decal paper.
You can sand the paper to get it the right color transparency evidently.
Not the clear, you would have to paint the plastic with a transluscent white paint that would never match up.
Make a tiny decal and slide it on.
If I can get some kind of a color match...
I'm inclined to try both white and clear!
Looks like a good safe way to experiment.
Has anyone else done this?
Can someone send a high res image of this area to draw from?
A close up from a cell phone would probably work fine.
This might really help a lot of people if it works out.
Quoted from gianfri:It doesn't affect the game, but it's maybe a bit unaesthetical.
This game has scores with 7 digits, so the 8th is unused.
You may find someone interested in switching your 8 digits displays with some 7 digits
That's a great idea!
Does anyone need my perfectly working 8 digit displays?
I will trade them 1 for 1 for the proper 7 digit ones!
Must be fully working properly tbough.
I'm ordering the neon tube for farfalla.
I can order any color...
Is it pale yellow?
Is it pinkish white?
Is it white?
What is the original color?
There seems to be some inconsistancies.
The TNT video shows a pinkish white?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:farfalla never existed with 8 digit. Someone threw those in there because someone used the original for another game, and someone else tried to piece this one together.
I suspect that this is true.
My game looks like its had a hard life.
But the displays are clean and bright, no reason to replace them at this point since they appear to work correctly.
Thanks you so much brenna98 for the twitch link:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/489891776
The yellow neon looks great!
I'm trying to locate the spring mounts for the neon tube.
Does anyone have a few to spare?
Or, what springs should I get to bend my own?
Quoted from michiganpinball:Parting a Locomotion . Below is a link to items on Epay. Also have PF parts not yet listed - let me know what you might need. Backglass is good but unfortunately broken on top right corner.
ebay.com link[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Will those displays work in my farfalla?
Quoted from HHaase:Any neon shops nearby? They may have something thatll work
I would think so!
I need to know what size tube diameter to order.
I'm going to go with either pale pink or pale yellow as seen on that twitch video. (I really like the yellow)
Does anyone know the diameter?
It looks like 10mm or 12mm from the vids I've been looking at.
Looks like 1/2" or a little smaller.
Can I get my Farfalla to speak Italian?
Pinballgoddess (its her game) asked me but I couldnt see anything in the manual.
There looks to be country settings?
Dip switches set to all off for italy.
Mine are set off on off off (england?)
Do they change the language if you change the country?
It would be way cool for an Italian game to speak Italian!
Do you have any spare spring keepers for the neon tube?
Or one I could copy and send back?
There's a spring guy in Utah near me that can make up a batch.
Any interest?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:that black connector block is nothing. It was a diagnostics block plug. Doesn't do anything. button inside the coin door sometimes adds credits. I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out. the wires down by the tilt in electrical tape, I believe is also standard for a coil or switch that wasn't used.
Thanks! All of this is good to hear.
And if you can find neon springs, that would be amazing!
Quoted from pinball_ric:Pretty sure this is likely something on the board and not a display glass issue. So should be repairable.
How do I test for that segment?
What are the likely failure points for that segment?
All the other ones work ok.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:it's probably the wires from the glass to the board.
Great. I'll check it out.
Quoted from pinball_ric:When I got my farfalla all of the displays had the exact same segments out. Turns out something in its life before i got it something shorted out and took out ic3 I believe.
If somehow yours is the same I would suggest you get someone skilled at soldering to fix it. Pretty sure when I did mine I lifted quite a few pads.
The missing segment is only on the display that has the ball in play count, and only on the last 2 digits on the right.
So when it days ball 2 or 3 the middle line segment doesnt light.
All of the other digits in the display are unaffected. Only the last 2 numbers on the right.
I'm inclined to believe it's a loose pin or wire or bad contact?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:you can swap it without moving the jumper just to see if it's the cable or not. But if it was the cable, the segment would be out on each of the digits.
Yes the actual display is socketed onto the board.
I can swap it to the player 4 one.
This is a great idea.
This board has been worked on before. IC 2 is socketed.
Thanks for all the great ideas guys!
20191102_101037 (resized).jpgQuoted from gianfri:I'm more convinced that you have a problem on the 2 digits element itself and not on the wiring neither on the electronics.
Those displays are multiplexed therefore, if electronics, you'll have the same defect all over the digits.
If wiring you would have the same.
It can only be the plasma 2 digits element, either a solder pad of this element or, and most problably, it's dieing after 38 years.
If you're confident enough, you can swap the 8 digits element with another working display, you'll see immediately if it's the electronics or not.
I agree.
The fault is only in the last 2 display elements.
Only 38 years old...lol!
I'm rapidly warming up to the idea of getting a complete led set of kits.
Durability down the road and no pinball killing 170v.
It's a win, win.
It looks very scary to pull the glass off of a good display and swap it.
38 year old crispy fried display boards...
What could go wrong? Lol!
gianfri and
CaptainNeo for the win!
I swapped the display glass with the one on player 4.
Very crusty pins. Cleaned and deoxy5 on them.
Perfect result!
The bad 2 digit element problem moved to player 4.
Oddly it took 30 seconds for the bad element to show zeros.
It's like it had to warn up just to work at all.
Bad, outgained light element? Bad trace or contact?
Either way it's on the glass not the PC board.
Moving it to player 4 means one might never see the fault! Ummm, for now at least.
20191102_113534 (resized).jpgCan someone email me a close up of the face on the butterfly woman?
I want to try my hand at making a decal to fix her nose on my game.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:I agree swapping out the bad display with a working one would be a good test but remember the displays are numbered by jumpers on the display. You have to set the working display to the correct number and then install it. Never do any work on the game with power on,you will destroy the displays. I'd be inclined to take the player 4 display and change the jumper to the BIP display to try it. If it works I'd probably just move the BIP to player 4 after changing the jumper and leave it for now Until you find another working 8 digit (very hard to find) or swap them out to 7 digit (again hard to find unless you buy new led types someone was making)
Thanks for the swapping idea!
It got me on the right path for now.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out
It would be awesome if I could get even one of the retention springs. I can make some up if i have a sample, even to borrow.
Quoted from rvdv:[quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like the neon tube is 3/8" from the photo?
Can anyone verify the diameter for my replacement neon?
I need to know before I order it.
I'm getting 2 different sizes from pinside:
3/8" or 1/2"
And they are in millimeters.
So 10mm or 12mm?
I'm thinking 10mm after looking at the photo!
What pinball springs could I use to make the spring retainers?
They look like big extention springs.
Not shooter rod, coil return or pop bumper ones. Those are the opposite, or compression springs.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Maybe you could use something different than the spring retainers. THese are also used as supports for neon tubes and these are univeral.
https://www.theneonsignguystore.com/product/neon-tube-supports/universal-tube-support/
I can get low profile supports.
That's not a problem lol.
Spring retainers are best for this application.
I think the springs were implemented to keep the glass from shattering when the game is moved with the head down.
I also think that the springs attributed to the wear on the backglass in most cases if the game was moved around a bit.
If I can get a sample, I can make some up.
Also i need the actual neon tube size. Color seems to be pink or yellow lol.
I replaced the battery as suggested with 3.6v remote pack.
Plus to plus etc...
Game was playing perfectly with no errors before changing the battery.
I removed the board from the game to do the work. Disconnected all the cables. Reinstalled the cables. They are not offset.
Now I get no CPU led and the game wont boot.
Fuses are good and ohm out.
What do I start checking?
Bad connector?
Bad ribbon?
I was afraid of this. 38 years old runs into a lot if marginal stuff if you disturb it.
20191105_151135 (resized).jpg
20191105_151847 (resized).jpg
Quoted from HHaase:Might need to give the battery some time to charge too. What voltage is it giving off?
Battery is showing 3.6v
Is there a reset to do if you change a battery?
I imagine all stored settings are gone. But I never set any.
The CPU led is not lit.
Well looky here!
I pulled the board to test cpu.
GND on C9-2, 5v from my workstation to C9-4.
CPU booted after 1 sec, led stable.
So I started looking all over the board for problems.
Evidently when putting jumpers in, it's not necessary to trim off the excess.
20191105_162325 (resized).jpg
I think that the jumper wires got bent up on my worksration carpet.
I didn't even look at anything on the backside of the board, after putting in the battery.
It was all from the front. A very simple procedure.
When I plugged in the board, the untrimmed wires shorted to the backplane, and of course no boot.
This was absolutely insane to find.
Quoted from HHaase:The system doesn't have any kind of pre-set, you basically end up with a default setting that is "whatever random state the data lines were at, at that moment". So yes, you need to go through and set each one individually.
Also, with each option, sometimes that random setting on an initial boot may not actually be the digit showing on the display. So you'll want to go through each setting, and loop it all the way around until it comes to the setting you want, to make sure that it really is what you think it is.
-Hans
The displays are not showing correctly and missing digits.
I wonder if something is blown now after the shorted jumpers.
20191105_164519 (resized).jpg
20191105_173735 (resized).jpg20191105_173732 (resized).jpgQuoted from CaptainNeo:you sure those jumpers are right for those roms? did you reseat the ribbon cable? Try disconnecting all of the other displays and flip the cable around and try it on just one display. meaning. Use one of the connectors that normally goes to a display, and plug it into the board, and use the next one in line to go to the display. That will tell you if it's a cable issue.
Is there a table for the jumper settings in the manual?
I will check it.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:also, those jumpers are not soldered on the back at all. If the platted through on that hole is broken, it won't be following those traces on the back. I'd solder those pads on the back too, to make sure you have connection.
If I can verify the jumpers are correct. I'll solder them.
I did notice that they were poorly soldered on the back.
It was odd that they would poke thru all the way to the backboard.
Is this normal?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:you sure those jumpers are right for those roms? did you reseat the ribbon cable? Try disconnecting all of the other displays and flip the cable around and try it on just one display. meaning. Use one of the connectors that normally goes to a display, and plug it into the board, and use the next one in line to go to the display. That will tell you if it's a cable issue.
Game was running very well before this event.
I did reseat all the display connections.
There are other issues.
A hum coming from the playfield now. Very mild buzzing.
The game starts with bad displays and a hum.
The game takes credits but wont launch a ball. Another solenoid fires weakly but not the ball kicker.
All of this after grounding out the jumpers i think.
Its possible that the jumpers are not connected properly.
but I dont know what the behavior would be if that is the case.
Something might be wrong with the logic?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:jumpers should be.
J1- A
J2- b
j3 - c
J4 - f
J5- H
j6- Y
J7- K
J8 - L
I'll check it in a little while.
I'll solder them in properly and report back.
I think its jumper problems?
That seems to be the only thing that was disturbed/shorted.
The game is acting really weird now.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:jumpers should be.
J1- A
J2- b
j3 - c
J4 - f
J5- H
j6- Y
J7- K
J8 - L
All good.
20191106_140408 (resized).jpgThanks for all the help.
Other than work out the repairs on this CPU board, I just ordered a Black edition board from pinball solutions.
I also ordered a set of 7 digit led displays.
I hope they are in stock ! LOL.
My feeling is that WTF am I doing...! Its a 38 year old board, and a brand new one is available that includes free play roms etc.
I'm getting a new one.
Also might get the driver board too. Mine is very crusty, but works for now.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:well with those wires like that. i'm sure they were shorting against the grounding panel in the backbox. May have shorted something out. Hope you clipped them off first.
The game surprised me! I didnt even know that the wires were there. I didnt check for this. Who would? its an insane way to work on something.
I have never seen anything like it in 45 years of work.
Oh well, its pinball LOL.
I hope my new board comes soon!
Quoted from luvthatapex2:check the fuses on the power board and under playfield (if I recall there are some fuses under the playfield).
its very good the game starts, thats over half the battle.
there are some troubleshooting tips here if you want to get it running.
Its a bunch of reading but if you are going to own zacs you have to understand them.
You are lucky there are replacement boards and displays available but not everything is available so learning to troubleshoot will help if you have an issue.
http://www.pinrepair.com/zac/
My game was running perfectly before shorting the jumpers to the back panel.
I ordered a new CPU board.
It's been hacked way too many times.
I think that this will solve my current problem.
Driver board next maybe!
I'm trying to get the game stable.
After 38 years, it's just not going to be rock solid.
But it can be, with some new parts!
Quoted from pinball_ric:Picked up a new set of calipers today so took a measurement of the neon tube on my Farfalla since the backglass was already out. The calipers read 12.11mm but I didn't try to get it real tight since they were metal.
12mm it is!
Thank you so much!
Ill have to agree with this! Age is not necessarily a meter of durability, But usage definitely is!
"Its not the years, honey. It's the miles...!"
However, my game is built on cast off, hacked and worn out boards. Not gently used at all LOL.
Im excited to be getting new electronics! Now my game will be mostly trouble free for years to come I hope.
Ill post the repair when it comes next week.
I received my new cpu board today.
Thank you gianfri
What a beautiful board!
Easy install, super high quality.
And FREE PLAY roms!
I love it.
However the damage is just too severe on my game.
This board alone did not solve any of my problems.
Remember, i had a perfectly running game.
Now I have no yellow drop targets reset or power.
Melted coil on the orange drop target bank.
Buzzing, locked coil on the ball launch kicker.
Moving ramp is down and wont activate.
Relay r2 on the power board is loudly buzzing and pulsing when driver board is connected.
And low power anemic performance all around.
There may be more damage but I'll tend to it bit by bit.
So I ordered the driver board next.
20191112_171612 (resized).jpg
I manually checked all the coils.
They seem ok and not melted yet.
All of my displays are ruined now after the short.
These are plugged into the new CPU board alone with the other boards disconnected.
They are behaving the same as the old original board.
My assessment is that they are really badly damaged.
It's ok. They aren't the right ones for my game anyway.
I bought the led kits and hope to have the new displays mostly done this weekend.
With hope, my new driver board will come next week and my game will be up and running again!
20191112_171649 (resized).jpggianfri is a GOD! LOL.
These led displays are amazing and beautiful!
All my display trouble is gone!
The kits are incredibly easy to build and the parts are top notch!
I had them all built in about 4 hours.
Zero errors. Super easy.
For the first time since owning my game, I finally have the correct displays! And they run on 5v so they wont catch on fire down the road lol.
20191113_193659 (resized).jpg
I'm very happy with them.
Now, time to shotgun the driver board...
Quoted from CaptainNeo:i've had to build about 60 of those displays already. They are fantastic .
I'm ecstatic about them!
Now, does anyone want my old displays?
Complete with boards?
I would gladly trade them for neon springs!
Quoted from Alan_L:Looks like you fixed her nose, not a bad job. A pinball rhinoplasty?
Not yet. But working on it.
Quoted from gianfri:Thanks for your nice words, it's always a satisfaction when pinball lovers apreciate the amount of hours we spend in developing and producing new products.
Didn't you forget to install the foam light shields around the LED digits?
They will remove the light glare around the digits.
I'll install the foam pads when I add the metal brackets off the old displays to make them more permanent.
I was so impressed with the new led displays, I had to take a picture as soon as they were done.
The last display #5 was still hot from the workbench when I powered it up lol!
I'm making up a list of parts to modify or cross reference, for flipper kits.
I might have to make the flipper links, or have them made.
Does anyone have a cross reference parts list already started?
Does anyone know the voltage of the neon transformer?
I'm thinking is should be around 3000v.
Does that sound correct?
Changed out fuse clips today.
They were pretty corroded and a little burnt.
My game is still a little over amped in the fuses. New fuses are coming.
20191116_111806 (resized).jpg
I'm thinking of changing out all the caps in the power supply.
They work, but I imagine they are out of spec after 38 years.
They dont last forever....
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Change stuff thats broken, leave anything thats working alone! You don't want to go over these games and attempt to bulletproof them.
Yeah, my game is a bit fragile.
In hoping to stabilise it.
Fuse clips were a regular maintenance job.
I have 1 oddball bridge rectifier that was replaced at some point, in the group. But it works!
The caps look filthy and smoky.
Decided to fire up the old power supply board after replacing the fuse clips.
No other adjustments, just clips and new fuses.
R6 caught fire and D1 cracked a bit so it's toast.
Its amazing what having proper connections after decades of misuse can do!
No fuses blew.
Note the missing SCR1 on this power board...hmmmm.
I guess someone needed it elsewhere. It' was actually carefully unsoldered and removed from the board.
Probably removed because F1 kept blowing.
20191116_135216 (resized).jpg
The whole 170v system is trashed probably lol.
I cut the lead in R6 to keep that circuit out of mischief.
And pulled out fuse F1.
I'm wondering what caused the resistor to light up?
Missing SCR-1?
No power draw from the displays?
Age?
Way more current available with new fuse clips?
All of the above? Lol
I dunno, I half expected this though.
I did a 1978 bally playboy in similar condition.
It caught fire many times until I bulletproof the power supply and fixed all the 200v displays.
I know that since I put in all LED didplays, I dont need the 170v section any more...
In fact, I can probably remove all of the components in that section.
Pretty much like the last game zaccaria made with led displays
(New stars Phoenix).
(Same power board, missing all of the 170v section).
ns-power-large (resized).jpg
So, I plugged in the boards one by one.
All is good, nothing smoking.
Square sounds button makes speech.
CPU board boots up.
My game has been buzzing, farting and puking since the grounded jumper fiasco.
I plugged in the driver board....
No buzzing, no squeeling, no farting and no puking. Most importantly no melting of coils!
Started a game and HOLY CRAP!
WTF??!?!
All targets reset, everything works.
So, I played a game. Everything is perfect!
Lol.
So. WTF!!??
Admittedly my power board has had a lot of repairs in its life.
So, a bad 170v section can trash the whole game?
Massive short causing serious voltage drops in the 39v?
Upset the driver board, etc?
Really weird. Really interesting.
I'm not even sure where to look on this. It's strange.
Thinking about this.
Someone can probably make a fresh power supply board pretty cheap without the 170v section (or maybe even with it).
There's not much to it.
I'd be in for a kit.
About my game, CaptainNeo is right.
Evidently there was a big pile of hacked, blown and set aside used zaccaria parts somewhere.
So, seeing a farfalla cabinet nearby in a vacant lot, someone decided to build a marginal barely playing game.
That's how I think my game was born!
It sure runs good now.
Better every day!
Cant wait to see the new driver board from gianfri !
Maybe next week...
Just posted 2, million point games!
I just love Farfalla!
Quoted from gianfri:I'll be honest with you, I fully agree with luvthatapex2
When it works, just don't touch it
This thread is stressing me because it's like a thriller movie, there is always something going on behind the corner
Anyway, here something for you:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
So there is a U type hook which is placed around the neon and the spring which is screwed into the hook.
That is fascinating and amazing!
Those pictures are perfect!
I was completely unaware that the retainers were 2 pieces.
Thank you so much.
I definitely need a sample to copy.
It looks easy enough.
.7mm spring and maybe 1.5mm flatwire?
I'm excited to try to make some of these.
Thinking about the led displays...
It might be good to tell people to remove fuse F1 from the power supply board after the LEDs are up and running.
This should shut down the 170v system that's not being used and prevent any high voltage failures that might lead to a fire lol.
This might protect from any problems in the future?
Quoted from gianfri:I agree, actually I was sure it was already indicated but apparently I did it on the Bally/Stern displays and not on the Zaccaria user's guide lol
But to be clear and avoid misunderstanding with other users reading this chat, the accident with your 170v was not related to the LED displays, the fuse option is just an option, good option, but not necessary in order to use the LED displays.
Ansolutely!
The led displays had no part in the power supply failure.
That was destined to fully fail at some point.
Due to age, abuse and missing parts etc.
I'm glad it failed in my workshop under test where I have all the tools and repair equipment lol.
(And a fire extinguisher...)
Quoted from CaptainNeo:nvm. Didn't know that was R6, can't see a label.
Its labeled under the component.
I think it's a 47ohm 3watt ceramic.
David's pic (though good) is not quite good enough to see the labels.
When I get the spring retainers made, I'll be ready for the neon tube.
Unfortunately my power box service outlet fitting is all cracked up from age.
I bought some adapters for it but, the plastic wont hold it. Just too damaged.
Also its euro lol.
So I installed a mini outlet box for the neon as well as for soldering iron, worklights, boombox etc.
It's all to code, fully grounded etc.
It's off the input side of the line cord and doesnt run thru the game.
20191119_121259 (resized).jpg
I'll tear into the power box later when I do the clearcoated playfield swap.
I added new cabinet flipper switches yesterday.
The old ones were pitted pretty bad and filing them down worked somewhat. But one pair was worn at a 45 degree angle.
20191122_130239 (resized).jpg
Can I add capacitors to the flipper switches to limit the arcing/sparking? Similar to other games?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/28690
Has anyone done this?
elsw-0119 (resized).jpgOne of my flipper covers wont stay on.
For the moment I moved it to the upper flipper, they are way weaker.
It doesn't snap on very tightly.
What are people doing to get these to be more secure?
Or are they just putting on different flippers?
What is a good suitable replacement?
My game is getting a lot of play now that it's mostly fixed.
I ended up putting a layer or 2 of 3M tape adhesive all around the inside edge of the cap.
If that fails to hold, I'm thinking of trying some of the 3M VHB tape adhesive, it's really sticky and doesn't dry out.
The problem is that the plastic is a bit oily. Nothing sticks to it.
Seems to work for now.
20191123_162521 (resized).jpg20191123_162529 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:I ended up putting a layer or 2 of 3M tape adhesive all around the inside edge of the cap.
Seems to work for now.If that fails maybe a bit of the 3M VHB? Its really stcky.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Just posted a pretty good game on farfalla 3.5 mil.
The tape adhesive held well up in the upper flipper cap that was falling off.
No smoking, puking or buzzing!
One pop bumper coil was a little warm.
I put in the correct right flipper coil (D50 S 600)that was wrong (D45 S 500).
Now you can make the ramp much easier.
Marco has these in stock as well as pinball heaven (cheaper).
The new displays are amazing, the nee CPU board is amazing, the game is coming along nicely!
Quoted from Future_Primitive:No, Zaccaria pinball isn't a new thing for me at all, I've been dedicated to collecting these machines for many years. However, I recently decided to start participating here on Pinside. Thanks for your warm welcome CaptainNeo
Welcome!
Maybe you have some left over farfalla parts!
Let me know.
1 week later
I finally installed my new driver board!
It amazing. I love the led read out for the coils, very cool.
Coil one shows locked on.
Its not, it's working perfectly, but its also not killing the transistor.
Transistor 14 smoked and died.
Interesting, as there isnt anything on that circuit.
I have already fixed and replaced it.
Game plays fine.
I'll have to check for a short.
The original driver board isnt smoking or heating up the same transistor at all.
Quoted from gianfri:Coil one is the coin coil, it's always active when the machine is switched ON, it's there for locking the coin mechanism, so it's normal.
For the rest, write to me in private in order to investigate your other point.
Wow! Thanks for the coin door tip. Makes total sense.
I haven't torn the coin door down yet.
It looks like it was recovered from deep in the ocean lol.
Quoted from gianfri:I'm running a stock clean up on conversion kits for 8 digits Zaccaria displays (only the second version), if interested:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-zaccaria-led-displays#post-5354814
_________________________________________
Pinball Solutions
www.pinballsolutions.eu
LED displays for Zaccaria, Bally/Stern, Williams/Data East and much more... visit our website.
My new pinballsolutions displays are GLORIOUS!
Its the best thing you can do.
1 week later
Quoted from fat-johnny:I have seen one source say that in some machines, previous repair people have cut the white wire responsible for this power fail signal, and that allows the game to boot. Do you think it is worthwhile or advisable to cut the white wire, and see what happens?? Can you give me someplace to start looking, such as "diode D9 always fails" or something?? Any thoughts on what this could be? Does anybody even sell a replacement power supply board??
Thanks for any help,
FJ
Maybe test or rebuild the power supply board.
3 weeks later
Quoted from MagicCastle:This is what the same two flippers on the Robot look like. These have the spring over the plunger. As i said above these match the manual . All four flippers on the Magic Castle have the same side spring setup . Have i got a rebuild ?? or is the manual drawing wrong ?[quoted image][quoted image]
Those side springs look like an added modification.
Maybe an attempt to upgrade them to later williams type return springs.
This mod should make them a bit snappier. They might return faster.
Plunger type springs are weak.
I would leave them alone unless you just want to make them the same as the manual.
Clean all the contacts on all the switches and clean the plungers, they might work better.
There are no parts available, but some parts from Gottleib and Bally cross over.
Quoted from MagicCastle:The strange thing is that the current side spring flippers on the Magic Castle are terrible . Very very week , especially the right one right one ( green coil) . The Robot flippers are far superior.
Also I can’t see any additional screw holes where they would have changed the flippers over to ‘Williams style flippers ‘. They look like identical in base plate ect , almost like a factory installed set. And they have changed all four of the Magic Castle flippers to this side spring type not just the main flippers. If you look at the photos of the two right hand (green coiled ) flippers ,the Robot only has two contact arms and the Magic Castle has six contact arms.
Can anybody with a Magic Castle with the correct flippers installed send me a couple of photos so i can see what changes have been made to my machine. I’m a bit confused . They really appear to be factory installed on my Magic Castle but as said earlier they don’t make the drawings in my downloaded manual.
This site is great. Have been reading back through all the early pages to see if this issue has ever come up before .
No, Williams flippers have not been installed at all.
Looks like merely a mod.
2 weeks later
Quoted from swampwiz:I need a flipper coil for Space Shuttle; I'm getting the proper voltage, but the coil is dead.
The marking says D45 S-500 / 14-6000. Where in the world can I get this?
This website has it listed (but out of stock) and says that it is cross-listed with Bally AQ-24-500/34-4500. I think I have one of these on a cannibalized Bally early SS.
https://www.flipperwinkel.nl/winkel/contents/nl/d185.html
Marco has some zaccaria coils.
Pinball heaven has some coils too.
Quoted from swampwiz:VERY, VERY confused about the replacement coil Bally AQ-25-500/34-5050 I got from Marco's!
First off, even though these websites say they are a match with the D45 S-500/14-6000:
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html
the EOS-open resistance for the Zacc is 530Ω whereas the one for the Bally is 362Ω (it's marked as this and measures this on the ohmmeter). OK, maybe this is OK ...
The coils have 3 leads with a pair of diodes going across the leads. Let's call A the side at the bottom of the arrow, C the side at the top of the arrow, and B being the point of the arrow from A and the bottom of the arrow to C.
A -> B -> C
Looking at the coils such that the leads are forward and on the bottom, there is:
Zacc: A -> B -> C
Bally: C <- B <- A
OK, no big deal, just the mirror image to keep in mind.
Now, when I do the resistance check, I get:
Zacc: AB = 530 | BC = 3.3 | AC = 530
Bally: AB = 3.3 | BC = 360 | AC = 363
Looking at the schematic for Zacc Space Shuttle, the EOS switch is in parallel between B & C, which is what is shown on the label of the Bally coil.
It would appear that 1 of 2 possibilities must be true:
[1] The Bally coil I have is correct, but it not a true substitution for the Zacc
[2] The actually Bally coils I have were manufactured incorrectly, and the proper Bally design is the same as Zacc. I've gotten an incorrectly assembled Game Plan board from Marco's made by Gulf Pinball for Marco's, so this could be a possibility.
Either way, it seems that the problem could be rectified by turning the diodes around (i.e., cutting the ones in putting in new diodes in parallel, or soldered in place).
What do you think?
I have recieved coils with the diodes reversed ftom Marco before.
I'd flip the diodes and retest.
Quoted from swampwiz:Yes, that's what I have done, and it works fine. I had to really sand down the EOS switch - which is another issue as the one for one side is longer than the other side (any idea of what part it takes?) - and now that I think about it, the original stock coil prob probably had been working fine, as I'm getting the same good readings on both the stock coils (I replaced the pair since there were getting a different pat than stock).
I replaced my stock coils.
The metal bobbins were dragging horribly.
I also replaced the ribbon cables in the backbox.
The flippers are now twice as strong as the worn out beat down ones.
My farfalla is starting to play amazing!
Quoted from rjsoeps:Fresly clearcoated playfield, wanted to share this with you... and.. brand new mirrored backglass[quoted image][quoted image]
I need a backglass !
Are they being produced?
Quoted from rjsoeps:Does anyone have repaced the neon tube with some sort of led tube replacement?
On my farfalla the neon is gone, but i rather putt leds in than the traditional neon tube..
Anyone any ideas on this? Or have anyone
Allready done this?
Would love to hear
I dont have a neon tube either.
Led would be perfect!
Who has 12mm neon tube?
Quoted from rjsoeps:Yes they are.. in Holland.
http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/kopruiten.html
This guy is the best!
Awesome!
Quoted from rjsoeps:Yes they are.. in Holland.
http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/kopruiten.html
This guy is the best!
Email sent.
Hoping they ship to the usa.
Quoted from rjsoeps:On the led/ neon thing
This might be what we want in pink or color changing?
https://m.alibaba.com/amp/product/62303050207.html
Is the dip switch on the mainboard in test/diagnostic mode?
It took me forever, reading the manual to figure this out.
Quoted from Chosen_S:No, the dip is off
Is the outhole switch supposed to be normally closed? Like this?....[quoted image]
No, it looks bent. The ball has to actuate it.
Im working on my farfalla also.
It was pretty rough but after extensive cleaning and board repairs it plays great!
I just posted 5.9 million points on it.
The new pinball solutions led displays are incredible!
Quoted from Chosen_S:Sweet man, the ball actuates the switch just fine, the wiring is my issue
The way the switch is wired makes the switch “normally on”. Then the ball actuates it and switches the switch off
Need to see if the wiring is correct
I’m finding several broken wires and switch contact issues on mine that I’ve been repairing today.
Keep at it.
I found operator hacks on every single coils and switch.
After deep cleaning and careful attention to the schematic, the game started settling down (no more smoke and fires lol) and playing well.
I want to change out my backglass lift channel, its a bit dented and rusty.
Which one do i buy?
Early bally in stainless?
Quoted from edward472:I've got a chance to buy a Magic Castle. Looks in pretty good condition, but the lower flipper bats aren't correct. What's the going rate for one of these?
Difficult to impossible to get flipper bats but I think siegecraft is reproducing them without the tops and wings.
https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=84&controller=product&id_lang=1
ebay sometimes.
Quoted from edward472:Thanks. Do you have a ballpark figure on the price of the game?
Pinside says $1260 is the median price.
I imagine much less if the game is not complete or in poor condition.
As some of you might remember my farfalle game came with no neon in the backbox.
After a lot of time and research I found out that I could reproduce the Neon in 12 mm tube effectively.
I even had gianfri send me an attachment spring so that I could reproduce them close to the original.
Quoted from pinballinreno:As some of you might remember my farfalle game came with no neon in the backbox.
After a lot of time and research I found out that I could reproduce the Neon in 12 mm tube effectively.
I even had Gianfri send me an attachment spring so that I could reproduce them close to the original.
The cost for a custom one-off job with a handful of Springs and a local neon tube Maker to rebuild the system was about $400.
This isn't too bad as far as pinball Parts go people spend $500 on a single mod LOL.
Neon is very fragile and breaks super easy and it's hard to transport.
This is why a lot of games no longer have a neon tube in them it's just too expensive and in the end it might break again.
I didn't give up on the idea I just felt that right now there must be something better then 80s technology.
Quoted from pinballinreno:This is what I came up with for $42 free shipping.[quoted image][quoted image]
360 degree neon rope light from Amazon:
KERTME 360° Neon Led Type AC 110-120V 360 Degree NEON LED Light Strip, Flexible/Waterproof/Dimmable/Multi-Modes LED Rope Light + Remote for Home/Gard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLW45HW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SthYJDrbKxLhL
The kit comes with everything you need however you will have to extend the power cord to tie it into the game.
I just soldered an 8' extension cord wire directly to the front 2 lugs nearest the coin door under the switch cover.
The kit comes with 6 channel mounts. Its plenty.
I just use the existing screw hole that mounts the insert but I did put three little #8 washers under the mounting clip to fill the small depression so the clip would sit flush.
I only used one 5/8" #8 flat head screw. This allows for a little adjustment to straighten the light tube.
20200229_101011 (resized).jpg
I stuck the LED controller in the back box where the Transformer used to go with a couple strips of 3M VHB tape that I use for side rails
I cut the led wire and added a 2 wire molex for easier installation.
The kit comes pre assembled.
With the led controller attached.
It drasticslly simplified installation by cutting the wire and adding a molex.
20200229_113612 (resized).jpg20200229_122548 (resized).jpg
The led wire doesn't have to go thru the hole that the neon wires used.
You can just poke it along the side, theres tons of room.
20200229_122740 (resized).jpg
I used a mountable nylon cable tie that has the molded end to mount the center section.
I also installed it live to make sure the internal led strip was oriented correctly.
20200229_114344 (resized).jpg
I mounted the controller close enough to the front so that the IR receiver (for the remote) pushes thru the existing wire hole.
It actually works pretty good!
Quoted from pinballinreno:360 degree neon rope light from Amazon:
KERTME 360° Neon Led Type AC 110-120V 360 Degree NEON LED Light Strip, Flexible/Waterproof/Dimmable/Multi-Modes LED Rope Light + Remote for Home/Gard amazon.com link »
The kit comes with everything you need however you will have to extend the power cord to tie it into the game.
I just soldered an 8' extension cord wire directly to the front to lugs nearest the coin door under the switch cover.
The kit comes with 6 channel mounts. Its plenty.
I just use the existing screw hole that mounts the insert but I did put three little #8 washers under the mounting clip to fill the small depression so the clip would sit flush.
[quoted image]
I stuck the LED controller in the back box where the Transformer used to go with a couple strips of 3M VHB tape that I use for side rails
I cut the led wire and added a 2 wire molex for easier installation.
The kit comes pre assembled.
With the led controller attached.
It drasticslly simplified installation by cutting the wire and adding a molex.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The led wire doesn't have to go thru the hole that the neon wires used.
You can just poke it along the side, theres tons of room.
[quoted image]
I used a mountable nylon cable tie that has the molded end to mount the center section.
[quoted image]
The kit comes with enough material to possibly do 3 games.
Its not magical.
Its basically specially molded silicone tubing with a regular led strip in it.
The material can only be cut at 1 meter lengths.
Fortunately 2 meters is the perfect length.
There is a little dark line you can see thru the silicone every meter.
I just cut it with scissors.
It would have been nice to have instructions or connectors or end caps. Oh well, i got it mounted and used the existing end cap off the roll.
20200229_133332 (resized).jpg
Quoted from HHaase:Fantastic solution. Looks original but nowhere near as fragile or expensive. Is it RGB?
This one is not, but i only wanted pink.
Thr RGB will be available very soon everywhere i think.
Making a 360 degree neon tube out of a led strip is awesome!
And evidently incredibly simple lol.
And most importantly cheap.
Quoted from Chosen_S:For Farfalla
I could really use a photo of the wiring of the outhole switch, or if anyone has a set of restore photos of the underside of the playfield...
please
i forgot about this, sorry.
Ill get some pics monday.
your gameroom add-on is amazing.
Still on the hunt for a Farfalla green lady insert.
Its been 5 years looking.
Please offer me one if you have one to sell.
Please!
Quoted from Chosen_S:Thank you!
And
Thank you!
Took some outhole wiring pics:
20200302_094419 (resized).jpg20200302_094444 (resized).jpg20200302_094456 (resized).jpg20200302_094520 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:This is what I came up with for $42 free shipping.
[quoted image][quoted image]
There are also fade, strobe and different affects. And a remote.
I kinda like the fade one.
I added some rope light clips from home depot and removed tne center wire tie
20200303_141812 (resized).jpg
The light holds its shape pretty well.
I can add back in a tie if needed.
I now have the whole light system away from the artwork.
It doesn't rub at all.
20200303_141444 (resized).jpg
These are the clips
They look too small but flex out good and fit perfectly
20200303_140628 (resized).jpg
The way i had it earlier rubbed the glass at the top bend.
I needed a sharper bend and wanted a little more support to make it s little straighter down the sides.
You can add as many clips as you want.
Im very happy with the result.
In fact the led tube is 16mm and casts a bit more light.
Its plenty bright without being harsh and washing out the insert colors.
I like this so much that i ordered a new backglass from Coos.
I have no fear of damaging the new glass from heat or springs scraping on it.
1 week later
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hey all,
I have 2 issues I need some help with on Farfalla please.
1. I’m having sound issues. The speech at the end of sound test works, there’s only one sound effect that works (the rollover lane at the top of the playfield). No other sound effects work, if at all they are very momentary. I replaced the capacitors on the sound board, no change other than it took the buzz out of the speakers. I also reflowed the connector pins and the pot pins on the board.
2. I’ve also got the lower pop bumper frying it’s transistor... I’m going to replace the coil which seems burnt and crusty with the Bally/Williams equivalent. I’ll replace the transistor, resistor, and coil and diode and try again, unless anyone has a suggestion of anything else I need to do.
Thank you guys
Marco snd pinball heaven have some zaccaria coils.
I bought a few recently and they work very good.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:you want the channel for the thicker glass. They have 2 types, thin and thick. Zacs use thick.
Does anyone sell the metal clip at the top?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:you don't really need it. It's just there for the lock so it doesn't hit the glass directly. you could use plastic trim along the top if you want, or small piece of tape in the middle if you wish.
Great thanks!
Interesting problem on farfalla.
Once in awhile the left outlane switch triggers the react flipper before you can flip it.
It only happens once in awile.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:this is confusing. You mean it flips on it's own? Or does it mean that the ball goes through the outlane and passes the flipper before it works? or does it mean you are flipping before the ball reaches the ideal point on the flipper?
Ah, yes it is confusing.
this only happens on the left side of the playfield.
The react flipper flips on its own after the ball rolls over the outlane switch.
Then of course since its a one shot deal, you cant flip the flipper to save the ball.
So, the outlane switch causes the react flipper to flip on its own, before you can flip it, once in awhile.
It does this for a game or 2 when you first power up the game.
After a few plays, or after it warms up a bit, it doesnt happen any more.
I was thinking that it may have something to do with the relay? Arcing perhaps as it energizes the flipper?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:i'd first look at the wiring for the switch, for the flipper and everything connected in between. If there is a relay board for that, check it for cold solder joints. check for wires touching. Loose wires, and diodes that might be loose.
Hmmm, yes!
A bad diode might be it.
Ill look, thanks.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:wiggle them around. I've had them just crumble in my hands just from trying to move them. One Williams game I had once. 4 of them crumbled on me when checking the entire playfield.
Will do.
I imagine there at least a few blown diodes...
Quoted from fat-johnny:I’m in the process of trying to clean up my Devil Riders, and replace the rubbers. A lot of the rubbers at the top of the playfield are underneath the “Devil Rider” elevated playfield.
Any tips, tricks, or walk-throughs of removing the elevated playfield so I can get to the rubbers below?
Work slow, take tons of pictures.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:wiggle them around. I've had them just crumble in my hands just from trying to move them. One Williams game I had once. 4 of them crumbled on me when checking the entire playfield.
Its got to be something in the relay circuit.
I caught the right outlane switch firing the right react flipper just now.
Are there replacement relays available?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:try reflowing the solder on the relay first. and make sure your switch diodes are all on correctly, and on the right points of the switch. Look for banded side orientation. I really don't think it's the relay itself, but could be.
Will do.
Thanks!
Ill take a look friday.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Got a Farfalla, which was in pieces.
I am putting back everything together, but on the power driver board I have red and black wires coming cout; they were cut. Where are they going to?Any pic appreciated!
Can you post a pic of what you are working on?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Sure can![quoted image]
Can you post a pic of the backbox and all the boards?
I need some prespective on what you have.
Looks like someone soldered the wires directly to the power supply board and cut them off to part out the game.
My game had similar bad treatment lol.
Does your harness have a connector on it, or cut wires.
New pins and connectors are definitely in order i think.
Do you have the schematic?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:first boot done: it reboots non stop after like 1 sec.
Any hint where to look at?
edit: values are ok except TP4 which is at 2.9 instead of 5VDC
Edit 2: removed the dreaded white watch dog wire => pinball booted just fine!
Now I have everything working except the inserts; none of them is working. Investigating.
My original board doesnt have the white wire.
But I did buy a new CPU and driver board from @gianfri, mine are pretty torn up.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Both boards are fine it seems here.
Only having an issue with the 5VDC from the power driver board, which creates the issue with the inserts (at least I guess).
If I read the schematics correctly I should replace P3 bridge?
The power board is very simple.
I would shotgun it and just replace all the 30 year old parts.
One thing though, I would definitely get the LED displays from gianfri and disable the 170v circuit.
The 170v system is ancient and totally unnecessary at this point. Its good to avoid fires lol.
They are inexpensive and very easy to build. I built them all in 4 hrs.
They are just perfect.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hey guys I need a little help with Farfalla, I have everything working except sound, I get voice and a couple of sound effects and that’s it. Where do I start looking?
I have installed brand new roms.
background sounds set to on (1) in the menu?
Clear all audits in the menu and set background sounds to on.
Go thru all settings untill the end as sometimes it wont save anything.
Try turning the volume adjustment pots back and forth, they might just be dirty.
My game had no sound when I got it and came alive after fiddling with the sound pots.
I let it set another 10 years and of course no sound lol. But turning the volume control up and down fixed it again.
Do the sounds work in test?
If they do then its a CPU issue, not necessarily a sound board issue.
Or its a bad chip on the sound board if it doesnt work right.
see here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-sound-issues#post-4979075
Quoted from Chosen_S:Capacitors replaced and connectors and pots solder reflowed on the back of the sound board. ( reflowing one of the pots stopped a hum in the sound from a cold solder joint )
Pots adjusted over and over with no change
Pots adjusted per the manual as well
95% of the Sounds do not work in sound test
Same sounds that do work in sound test also work in game, maybe 2 sound effects work and the voice sound effects all work to my knowledge.
All of the settings gone through and adjusted one by one, and double checked afterward. Successful adjustment save .
Id go thru this list in the sound section, sounds like a chip or 2, maybe location 20 IC:
2 weeks later
Just got my new farfalla backglass.
Its amazing! Perfect! Wonderful!
So much better than the original.
Way better color and seperation of the elements.
It just GLOWS lol
Coos is a Master!
20200407_135418 (resized).jpg20200407_135429 (resized).jpg20200407_135433 (resized).jpg20200407_135455 (resized).jpgI got a new bally classic 3/16" stainless lift trim from pinball life.
The edges are a bit sharp.
I taped it to protect the finish with masking tape and just ran a smooth file followed by emory cloth to take the slight edge off
I had to trim off a little to make it 27 3/8".
I just used a dremel cutoff wheel.
I added 12" of friction tape.
It fit perfecty, just tapped it on with a harbor freight yellow plastic/soft face mallet.
It was super easy to install.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just got my new farfalla backglass.
Its amazing! Perfect! Wonderful!
So much better than the original.
Way better color and seperation of the elements.
It just GLOWS lol
Coos is a Master![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Its impossible to show how beautiful Coos work is.
Just stunning.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its impossible to show how beautiful Coos work is.
Just stunning.
Now, how can i pry loose a euro green lady insert from one you collectors....!
Quoted from CaptainNeo:as far as looking for an american insert. I just sold a nice euro insert to someone in here. So they must have the american version ready to sell.
Drats!
I needed a euro one...
Quoted from BaymenCoach:Any of you guys have Zaccaria flipper coils you would part with? Looking for D50 S600 / D14 S5000 for my Magic Castle and figured you'd be the best source of info. Thanks you for any help you can provide.
Does marocospecialties.com or pinballheaven.com still have these?
Quoted from BaymenCoach:Found a pair on Marco somehow today....so strange that they just popped up! Thanks!
I bought mine from marco too.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:nvm, looks like marco has them. I do carry a ton of zac parts which I will have up on my website once my website gets a overhaul. Which is in process.
Flipper pawls?
Quoted from Ed150:Hey guys,
I just recently picked up a Soccer Kings pin. My backglass is shot. Was wanting to know if anyone on here was familiar with this company:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/soccer-kings/
They sell Translites for Soccer Kings. Thought it would be a decent replacement until I can get the backglass repaired.
Has anybody bought anything from this company? Just thought I'd do some homework before I bought one from them.
Thanks guys!
Also heres some pics of my Soccer Kings. A long way from being finished, but I got the ball rolling. Cheers![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Isnt pinball center the company that wont deliver to the US?
They make you go thru a convoluted shipping maze.
It works but is difficult....
1 week later
Quoted from gianfri:Dear Zaccaria lovers,
discover here the latest news on the Zaccaria LED displays:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-pinballsolutionseu-official-thread-#post-5607097
Gianfri
I do love my new displays!
They were fast and fun to build and look amazing.
Quoted from rpk2012:I have joined the club, and the forum. Just picked up today and have started to go through it. Needs a lot of TLC, but I feel it will definitely be worth it! First pinball machine I have owned. Hello from Texas![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The game looks to be in pretty good shape!
1 week later
Quoted from shazam78:Just joined the club and thought I would show my two Zaccaria pins that I just got in the last 2 days.
[quoted image]
Those look great!
1 week later
Quoted from Nihonmasa:made a couple test more:
- all transistors are ok
- swapped with a known good driver board => exact same behaviour
- swapped with the center kick out coil which is the same one => exact same behaviour
I am very puzzled here
Check the wires for breaks, corrosion inside of the wire, cold solder or hanging by a thread etc.
Buzzing and anemic behavior on a single coil when everything else is ok, sounds like reduced current flow.
Voltage might be correct but amperage might be suffering.
Check all the connections in that circuit with an ohmmeter and maybe see if there is an area of high resistance.
But sounds like a cracked/barely touching wire.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:checked every connection, the cable, the switches... everything is fine.
I am now changing the diod/transistor/capacitor/Resistance associated to hit, just i ncase, and will also change the whole connector.
If this still not works I am lost...
When I put the Q5 tab directly to ground I clearly hear it have a little "hum" but nothing more. There is clearly a power issue, but where....
Try replacing the wires to the coil?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Probably the last thing to try XD So yep, will clearly try it.
Changed connector, transistor, etc => absolutely no change.
You can just clip a jumper to "double" the hot wire as a test.
Did you check the coil resistence?
Quoted from Alby:Williams Non Ribbed ?
Williams legs are the same exact length.
Early bally legs are not ribbed and look similar to zaccaria legs.
2 weeks later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:none of the other EM games match up? there has to be something that matches. Most zac stuff comes close to something else. Did one of the fiber boards break?
Im thinking of cutting some new flipper links for my farfalla.
What is the hard plastic they are made out of?
Essentially similar matetial as williams plastic links?
Quoted from Quench:Can's say for sure but the plastic used might be "Polyoxymethylene" aka POM.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene
Homepin used it for their flipper links.
Thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:hows that lower right connection on the PS board? That always needs to be redone on nearly every zac. Repin the header and the plug. Will give you nice steady voltages then into the ps board.
And replace the 170v displays for the nice new low voltage ones!
My Farfalla is speaking Italian right now with the Italian sound roms LOL.
Its just so weird and fun!
Quoted from Zigzagzag:Did you do GI, backbox and inserts in LED, or just some ?
I replaced all of my lamps with 2smd frosted sunlight comet LEDs.
It looks perfect.
I am very pleased with the result.
1 week later
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Problem with the translite is you need the masking layer that masks out the numbers/sections that are not lit. I worked on a few of these and had one of them printed on translucent film (2 prints). It wasn't great but better than nothing since I could not find a ROBOT backglass anywhere.
I was able to find a Pinball Champ backglass for second game without a backglass years ago but those days are gone now, plus it took me 6 months. Maybe you can find one in AU to lessen the cost/shipping? No substitute for a beautiful backglass for these games though. Worth the $700 IMO if that was my only option and a brand new glass would be something to really admire.
I really like my new Farfalla backglass. Its gorgeous.
Well worth the money spent.
1 week later
My farfalla is clipping off the last word on sentances when people speak.
is this controlled by the pot up on the upper right of the sound card?
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:which one is F4 ? location on the PS board
Isnt f4 the high voltage 170v fuse?
Quoted from Thehipster:Hi everyone. I acquired a Zac Pinball Champ 82 yesterday and I need some advice. I am fairly new to the pinball world (I have one other pin). On startup I ran a lamp and solenoid test. All solenoids worked and popped. A few lamps need replacing. All displays worked fine. I then rebooted the machine and the display did not light. Fuse F4 had blown. I replaced it and when powered up it glows and the displays are still NOT lit. Any ideas?
The high voltage section of the power supply board most likely needs to be rebuilt.
Fortunately you can shotgun this easily as it only has about 10 parts.
Along with this you can upgrade the fuse holders, they are quite weak.
I opted to just get all new display kits from @gianfri.
This way you can remove F4 as you dont need the 170v any more.
The 170v for the displays is old school and a little dangerous!
Its better and safer to just replace the displays.
I built all 5 kits in 3.5 hours and couldnt be happier.
Also check the ribbon cables.
Replace them for insurance.
A single pin holds the 170v for the displays lol.
My 170v circuit only caught fire twice before i decided to decommission it...
Quoted from Thehipster:To much for me I'm afraid. This is only my second pin. All was well yesterday and I'm struggling to see how a rebuild and display change is necessary after one blown fuse. I can see the reasoning behind it and the logic but if there was another way around it I would be grateful to know what it is. Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.
You can buy a new power supply board and ribbon cables. It will stabilise the power.
The zacarria-pinball.com website is a wealth of information.
Quoted from Thehipster:display.
Would the transformer voltage setting affect the I have it at 220 and in the UK we have 240vac
it should not.
Quoted from Thehipster:I found the F1 fuse and changed it. That got the display running. Unfortunately I thought I had put in a 1amp fuse but I had put a 8amp fuse in and it fried the RG1 resistor. Could you tell me which resistor size etc I need to replace it and why the fuse would pop?
Added yesterday: It is the R6 resistor not RG1
The manual schematic has the part numbers.
You can put a new one in but really the whole high voltage section should be rebuilt now.
As they age the little plasma segments are drawing a bit more power. This stresses the circuit.
This is why the fuse is blowing.
The best solution is to put in the LED replacement kits.
They are super easy to build with simple tools, and kinda fun!
But you can order them pre-built for you.
For the money, you cant beat the quality and durability.
Plus you wont need the high voltage section any more, just pull the fuse out.
1 week later
Quoted from ViperJelly:I am going to have 5 Zacs and reasonably have room for 3. Which 3 would you pick from this list (no specific order):
1. Clown
2. Magic Castle
3. Farfalla
4. Pool Champion
5. Time Machine
1,3 and 5
Quoted from luvthatapex2:I've had them all (except spooky and clown).
Magic Castle, Farfalla and Pool CHampion I'd pick from these 5. Pool Champion is a bit easier than the others, but the pop up ball targets are great fun to hit and sneaking the ball past the open top flipper to get the 8 ball is neat. I didn't care for Time Machine and only saw Clown once but it looked like a snoozer.
I like clown because it scares me!
Quoted from Elwood_BE:Someone knows which equivalent part can I use to replace the EOS of normal flipper of a Farfalla ?
I would like to replace mine also.
1 week later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:do they flicker? every zac i've tried to LED the inserts do random flickers.
I put all regular 2smd frosted sunlight on my farfalla. No flickers or ghosting.
Maybe use non-ghosting if they flicker, but i didnt on my game.
It seems just fine.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Future_Primitive:Plastics for Stars Phoenix to trade for a set of Zacc post caps anyone?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Metric cap/acorn nut with a nylon washer would work perfectly.
1 week later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:i've encountered a Farfalla with an issue like this before. Found out, the wrong diode was on the coil. you cannot use 1N4004's on these. They use a 1N4148. If you use a 1N4004, the coil will be randomly delayed, sometimes will work on time, sometimes several seconds after, sometimes before you even hit the button.
I have similar issue.
Sometimes the react flipper fires before you can hit the button.
Or as soon as the lane switch is hit.
But its inconsistent. Might go days before it happens again.
I thought it might be the relay arcing.
Ill take a look at the diodes.
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinball_ric:So what are people using for keying connectors on the power supply if they have to rebuild a connector? I don't think they make the long key pins that zaccaria used on the ends. My current idea is to have 2 empty pins on each side of the connector and put keypins in them. Not sure what else I could do.
I think that would work well enough.
1 month later
Quoted from Shenanigander:I have several zac boards for sale
ebay.com link
Untested is just another term for used and broken on Ebay.
1 week later
Quoted from Mikespinball:Looking for a Zaccaria Farfalla Owners manual. Just need the manual as I did get the electrical diagrams manual with the machine.
Let me know if you have one and its price.
Thanks,
Mike
maybe this one:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/824/Zaccaria_1983_Farfalla_Manual.pdf
3 weeks later
Quoted from Mikespinball:Also I upgraded the blue and orange target posts to double rubber posts due to the damage to the original posts (some were completely broken) and the amount of hits that happens once the targets are down.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I wish my playfield was a nice as that!
Beautiful game.
Quoted from Mikespinball:Also while I was at the neon bender company he gave me two new boots. Finished with the head LED upgrade, cleaning and neon removal/install.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you see the post I made about LED NEON Tube?
I absolutely love it on my game. More light with less glare, and you can change colors, brightness, make it flash 10 different ways etc, if you want lol.
The biggest plus is, no more worrying about breaking the tube, ever!
Quoted from Mikespinball:Need some tech help, have been working on my Farfalla. Machine does boot up and play, but was having sound problems with some sounds and then no sounds with buzzing/humming noises coming out of the speakers. Emailed David @ Zaccaria pinball, he suggested to replace the caps on the sound board. I replaced all small blue round caps, there are 7 of them. Re-installed sound board with no sound once turned power on, but F2 5amp fuse blows right away and machine will not boot up. Did I mess something up? Or is there a different issue? I did re-unplug the sound board completely replace the F2 5amp fuse and machine will boot up and play again. Any suggestions?
Thanks Mike
Sounds like you will have to re-visit the work you did and check for something wrong.
Quoted from Mikespinball:Update: Sometimes you do the stupid things and that is what I did on this. In my rush to try the sound board out after repairs, I pulled it out again today and saw that I had forgot to clip the long leads off the last cap I installed. No wonder the fuse shorted out right away. Anyhow once I clipped them off and re-installed the sound board it works fine. Lesson learned, take your time and double check your work before installing and testing. Just glad that no damage happened to the board.
My Farfalla had all of the country/game jumpers with 1" leads still on it, touching the back panel, looked like a porcupine underneath!
I have no idea what the prior op or repair guy was thinking...
I have to say, it didnt go well untill I cut them off...
1 week later
Quoted from gianfri:Thanks for the suggestions and nice job on the door!
I have finished the playfield cleaning so I will soon start the assembly but unfortunately the playfield itself is quite in bad conditions and I don't have many options so I will leave it like it is.
Before:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Those planked areas might cover up with heavy clearcoat over them.
I have some similar issues on mine.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:yes they can be buried in clear, but the problem is, you have to scuff the playfield before you can clear. the scuff process will probably sand off the peeks and create touchup areas on the peaks of the graining. Have to be very careful when prepping. If you do not scuff before clearing. You might as well throw the field away because you will get clear randomly separating from the original clear.
I was thinking the same.
I have had good success sticking down planks and peaks with a small amount medium CA glue and clamping down with pure teflon blocks.
vid1900 would know a lot more than me. lol.
Oddly it still sticks a tiny bit but removal by carefully twisting off other than pulling up was effective.
Quoted from gianfri:Scary movie!
I will leave it like it is as I'm not an expert in playfield or wood renovation and I don't want to make it worse.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Yep, its pretty scary stuff.
Quoted from gianfri:Coming back to the Zaccaria Power board.
Here I have made a new video of the working RevA board, the evolution of the prototype board I used before.All looks ok.
The main doubts remain on the Heat Sink for the big rectifiers which is still not defined as final solution and the main problem of how to proceed with the headers for G1 and G2 cabling.
I'm ready to provide few boards for deep testing at discounted price but I'm not sure I could provide correct support to boards shipped overseas due to high shipping costs. So if someone is interested please PM me and we will try to find a way to handle it.
Regarding the headers, the main concern is that it is not a good idea to have both generation header installed together without a protection as one could touch them and shorts may be possible.
Both incoming and outgoing HV from CN1 and CN5 are quite nasty.
For the moment the two boards I have received have only been tested on G2 and only have G2 connectors so the problem is not visible, but as soon as you install the G1 right angle headers, those will be on the edge of the board in a scary position.
Any idea on how to solve this problem?
Should we only provide the board for G2 machines and eventually provide the G1 headers as complement to be soldered by the customer in case of need?[quoted image]
I might be in for a Farfalla power board.
However since mine caught on fire and I disabled the hi power circuit it seems to work fine.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I keep them on hand, when troubleshooting a new zac that comes in. That's why I like them. Especially the Mpu board because I didn't have to swap roms.
And you can set Free Play!
4 weeks later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:you can replace with opaque if you want. Would give you the same effect.
David gersic makes replacement translucent bats if you need one. Since you are sending him boards anyway, buy one from him. I have used ones on hand as well that I sell.
Right lane outside flipper, might be the switch associated with that lane. Make sure that lane is lit, or the flipper won't work either. Make sure the switch sees the ball. Look at the wires on the coil. make sure those are solid as well. And the diodes on the switches are NOT 1N4004's like other games. so make sure someone didn't put one of those on the switch or your react flippers will be all over the place.
for the displays. Take the ribbon cable off of all the displays. Put the end that is normally on the last display (usually player 3), and put that on the MPU board. Put the side that is normally on the board, on one of the displays, and see if the problem goes away. If it does the ribbon cable is bad. David also sells those.
Since I bought all new led kits and new cables from david.
My display problems are gone permanently.
Plus no more 174v high voltage !
1 week later
My farfalla cuts off the the last words on a callout.
The guy says "that's not only bad.."
Instead of bad luck.
I fiddled with the speed control but it makes the voices high pitched.
Can i fix this?
Also I'm still looking for a green lady Euro insert for my game.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:there are several adjustment pots. One is for pitch, other is for speed of the voices. Adjust the other one. One of my says, it's not only bad, as well I like it like that so i leave it.
Ill take another look, thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from StratDoc:Got the outlane flipper working by readjusting EOS switches and filing them slightly, but the flipper flutters. Is this the coil? Disconnected wire on the coil?
Could be a bad coil with a broken wire on it or loose diode.
2 weeks later
Quoted from StratDoc:Thought I would give an update - bad scr controlling those two pop lights. Replaced and now working.
Another quick question for the club. When I set sw4 on the mpu for test/setup the game rings like it is supposed to when turned on. The test advance switch in the coin door does nothing. I would not think it common for those switches to go bad. Anything else I should check?
is it wired right?
Quoted from StratDoc:Center wire on switch connected to nothing - someone had tucked it behind one of the coin mechs so could not see that it.
There are two similar white wires - one connected to the coin mech and the other end is cut and a second cut white wire that travels into the cabinet.
UPDATE - several wires in coin door were cut and tucked away. Reconnected and everything is working. Terrific pin!
Quick question. The pf is really beautiful. I waxed it a couple of times during tear down. What else are folks doing to protect the pf?
Zac playfileds are super durable and unless water/humidity damaged, seem to hold up really well as-is with waxing.
My Farfalla was pretty beat and missing the neon etc. But with a little TLC its become a really nice game.
Im still looking for a Green Lady Euro insert that's better than mine to finish up the backbox, before swapping out the playfield.
1 month later
Quoted from Evel-Rider:next is to replace the missing neon tube, I tried a piece of led-neon but first it’s way to short and second I think it’s way to bright also
I made s post about this when I added it to my Farfalla. For the $42 you cant beat it.
https://www.amazon.com/KERTME-110-120V-Flexible-Waterproof-Multi-Modes/dp/B07BLW45HW
these days they have color changing RGB led etc.
post #1787 thru #1799
I have total control of brightness and pulsation etc.
I really like it a lot!
it was a breeze to install looks fabulous, factory and wont break.
Quoted from Evel-Rider:luvthatapex2 Yes I meant the pop bumpers (it’s been a long week already). I’ll try to adjust the spoons, I remember doing that before on the Hot Fire Birds.
Ah, then I’m missing those ramp bars, there’s nothing behind my droptargets, see if can track down how they look like, because this is a real pain and it happens all the time.
I asked a local neon company for pricing, they quoted me $150,- to bend up a replacement neon tube, then again I have the original transformer but don’t know if it works.
I ordered 2 meters of led neon this time for $5,00 to see hoe that looks, thanks for the help guys
the kit I got off amazon was awesome and looks fantastic.
Much cheaper than having a new tube made.
I was really looking for long term durability and some control over the brightness.
1 week later
Does anyone have a lead on Farfalla pop bumper caps? Or bodies?
My caps keep falling off due to warped and worn locking tabs.
Mine were originally epoxied on when i got the game.
Changing out the dead bulbs and putting in the Leds was a challenge...
Quoted from Evel-Rider:Friday evening project; I replaced the too bright and too short led-neon for a warm white and longer one, I’m happy the way it looks now; way better than the first attempt.[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!
2 months later
Quoted from Mikespinball:Okay guys, I am asking again is there a reliable repair source for Zaccaria pinball board(s) repairs here in the US? I can't believe there's not one due to the many machines collector's own. Your replys would be appreciated.
Johns Jukes is a legitimate repair place.
I would definitely contact them.
1 month later
Quoted from play_pinball:Definitely already tried reseating the cables and pushed on the chips to see if there was any connection issue. I was thinking that one or more of the axial capacitors have lived its life out. For the pots, is it these guys here?
[quoted image]
David has pit up great info on sound cards on his site:
3 weeks later
Quoted from INSATANSSEAT:I wanted to post about how nice the display kit is that I got from Gianfri at Pinball Solutions. The kits are absolutely great! Easy to put together if you have some patience and the displays look fantastic when done! Gianfri ships parts VERY quickly! It was only 7 days from the time I ordered to the finished result. Thank you so much!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those diaplays saved my a@@ ! on my Farfalla, plus the driver and free play CPU board!
Pinballsolutions.com and gianfri is AMAZING!
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Ontario, CA
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