(Topic ID: 221445)

Zaccaria Farfalla blowing fuse F2


By mantz88

1 year ago



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  • 33 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by mantz88
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#1 1 year ago

I have this Farfalla I am still trying to get up and running. Story was it played for years until a bad storm with lots of lightning and stopped working after that.

What I have done so far is replaced the 3 rectifier's, 4 Capacitors, CN1 header and pins, and fuse clips on the power board. I have tested the CN1 plug while disconnected from the power board and all seemed to be close to spec.

Test results on CN1 were
Pins 1,2 Red- 176.7VAC:
3,4 Brown- 9.9VAC:
5,6 Yellow- 10.8VAC:
7,8 Blue- 46.1VAC:
9/10, 11/12 Green/White- 7.1VAC:

I originally plugged everything back in at once and turned it on. CPU LED came on went off Sound LED came on went off, as CPU LED started to come back on I seen the F2 fuse glow and eventually pop. I then disconnected all boards but the power and CPU board, LED came on went off then fuse blew again. So then I disconnected everything from the power board while just leaving CN1 connected to the power board. More of the same F2 glows then pops.

I need some advice on where to look next. I havent used the TP's on the power board yet because I cant get power to the board long enough to test anything. The only thing I can think of is pins 1,2 on CN1 are higher than spec but I dont know where to look to solve that.

#2 1 year ago

Bump for help

#3 1 year ago

Post a picture of the boards with what is currently connected. Does the fuse blow if you disconnect the MPU?

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Post a picture of the boards with what is currently connected. Does the fuse blow if you disconnect the MPU?

Yes currently I have only the main power connector (CN1) connected to the power board and it still blows F2.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from mantz88:

Yes currently I have only the main power connector (CN1) connected to the power board and it still blows F2.

You have a 5amp slo blo and set for 120VAC on the transformer ?

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

You have a 5amp slo blo and set for 120VAC on the transformer ?

Correct

#7 1 year ago

Sure would like to see a picture of the power supply with the CN1 connected

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Sure would like to see a picture of the power supply with the CN1 connected

Im at work right now. I'll get a couple for you later. Thanks for your help

#9 1 year ago

Assuming CN1 is wired right and looking at the power supply schematic, likely P2 bridge rectifier is shorted. You can remove the board and on the bottom side, measure all the adjacent pins. I believe you will find a AC~ is shorted to either the output + or -.

P2 is KBPL 8005 50v 8 amp bridge rectifier farfalla power supply (resized).png

#10 12 months ago

Here are the pictures. I had read http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/index.html and that’s where I got the part numbers to order them from. Everything seems to be in order. Please excuse the previous owners sloppy work I tried to clean it up as best as possible. I did notice the p2 rectifier doesn’t seem to be touching the heat sink. Could it be overheating that fast?

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#11 11 months ago
Quoted from mantz88:

Could it be overheating that fast?

No. Test your P2 again. I don't see the results I think I am seeing to call P2 a failure. Can you set your meter to ohms and let me know the results?

one of the ~ to + and then ~ to the -

then the other ~ to + then ~ to the -

2018-07-27 18_25_21-Zaccaria Farfalla blowing fuse F2 Tech_ Early solid state Pinside.com - Inte (resized).png

#12 11 months ago

Ok so here is what I got. All these results are 2000k ohms because that’s the only range that would register on the meter.

~ to + 1816
~ to - 1394

~ to + 1562
~ to - 1610

#13 11 months ago

Well, that is weird. That is how bridge rectifiers normally short out. In any case, can you test the + and - together and then both ~ together?

If both AC ~ ~ terminals are shorted, then you may have a short (solder bridge) between pins on your CN1.

#14 11 months ago

+ to - tested ok
~ to ~ showed nothing.

I don’t see any shorts on CN1 but the solder for those pins are the closest ones to touching. I’ll clean up the solder and try again.

#15 11 months ago

Can you set your meter to diode test and test out D3 and D4? Should be around .4v to .6v.

Actually would be quick to test out all the diodes on the power supply.

#16 11 months ago

Tested all diodes. They are measured around .525-.550. I still need to try and clean up the solder on CN1

#17 11 months ago

Is P2 a new part? I'm surprised you don't see that testing as a short. Did the game ever work for you? Just trying to see if the problem occurred after a board repair or not.

#18 11 months ago

P2 is a new part. Game has never worked in my possession. Was told it ran for years until a bad storm one night. I'm half tempted at this point to buy another rectifier or just send the board off for a pro to take a look.

#19 11 months ago

The pictures of the board being upside down and then turned the wrong direction, have been giving me problems. I am actually thinking the P2 is installed backwards, as - should be where + is and vice versa. P2 (-) should be going to the (-) sides of the both of the big 10000uf capacitors.

When you remove or look under P2, I hope there are some markings on the board showing where + and - are on P2 when installed.

#20 11 months ago

Look closely at the last picture. The close up of the rectifiers. There is a + mark on the board. It matches the + on the rectifier

#21 11 months ago

At the same time looking at that picture it does look like the negative side of the cap is going to the positive side of the rectifier.

#22 11 months ago

I think I have the fu***** capacitors backwards

#23 11 months ago

Alrighty, glad something is making more sense now. I should had looked at the drawing for part orientation.

#24 11 months ago
Quoted from mantz88:

I think I have the fu***** capacitor backwards

Check both of those C6 capacitors and make sure the (-) stripe are away from each other. May want to replace the caps if they were installed wrong.

#25 11 months ago

I definitely would change the capacitors since the game was fired up with them backwards

#26 11 months ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Check both of those C6 capacitors and make sure the (-) stripe are away from each other. May want to replace the caps if they were installed wrong.

The negative are stripes are facing each other. Guess its time to order more caps.

#27 11 months ago

New caps came in and installed. Now F4 blows. I followed the trace straight up from f4 to p4 and it looks like it’s installed backwards as well as p1. I definitely didn’t touch those so I just want to verify those are indeed backward.

Also since fixinging the two caps f2 no longer blows and the game now boots to where the playfield now all lights up. No sound and displays yet but I’m sure that’s because of what’s going on with f4

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#28 11 months ago
Quoted from mantz88:

New caps came in and installed. Now F4 blows. I followed the trace straight up from f4 to p4 and it looks like it’s installed backwards as well as p1. I definitely didn’t touch those so I just want to verify those are indeed backward.
Also since fixinging the two caps f2 no longer blows and the game now boots to where the playfield now all lights up. No sound and displays yet but I’m sure that’s because of what’s going on with f4
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just looked at my devil riders and Farfalla and both have p1 and p4 wired the same way as yours opposite of the screen printed "+"

#29 11 months ago

Glad to hear it is booting up now.

F4 fuse is for the 39v coils. I would test out P4 as you did with P2. If P2 tests ok, then inspect and measure all the coils on the underside of the playfield and the one under the apron to see if you have a shorted coil. If you find a shorted coil, you definitely have a shorted transistor causing the F4 to blow.

#30 11 months ago

When is F4 blowing? Any delay after turning the game on?

#31 11 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

When is F4 blowing? Any delay after turning the game on?

Its about one second maybe two.

5 months later
#32 5 months ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Just looked at my devil riders and Farfalla and both have p1 and p4 wired the same way as yours opposite of the screen printed "+"

C12 in your pic is wired backwards

see bottom of this page
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html
Some errors in the schematics and on the circuit board print.

Refound this thread replacing the C6 caps on the power supply. The schematic is correct, but the old caps with 4 lugs appeared to have the negative towards the middle, opposite of the schematic and opposite of how you would normally put caps on a positive power supply .

#33 5 months ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

C12 in your pic is wired backwards
see bottom of this page
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html
Some errors in the schematics and on the circuit board print.
Refound this thread replacing the C6 caps on the power supply. The schematic is correct, but the old caps with 4 lugs appeared to have the negative towards the middle, opposite of the schematic and opposite of how you would normally put caps on a positive power supply .

Thats exactly what fixed mine. I bought new caps installed them the correct way and everything works great now.

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