(Topic ID: 257855)

UV-Mode Time Fantasy gameplay video posted...


By goingincirclez

58 days ago



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There are 84 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 18 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

How does this look as a suitable relay?

Yes.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-02

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-12235-02

Add two of these connectors to the relay and connect it to the old wires with a Z connector, your done.

#52 18 days ago

Following

#53 18 days ago

Man looks great! Not sure if you already have them but Titan have glow in the dark rubbers/flippers. Also have you tried Comets uv/blacklight bulbs? They're not the brightest but if you have that overhead uv bulb maybe try them under the slings?

#54 18 days ago

I was thinking that maybe you could put the light up here like this...

TF7 (resized).jpg
#55 18 days ago

Thanks for those links Grumpy. I was searching around the web last night for a few minutes and hadn't yet found those. My code guru pointed out the GI relay also cuts off steady-state during tilt (duh I totally forgot about this, I've only tilted the machine once or twice ha ha), so I should be able to build the circuit and prove it out sooner than I thought, even without custom code. Yeah!

So to that end I started fabricating the cantilever yesterday. I used 1.5" x 1.5" angle steel channel. 1x1 would work, but 1.5" is also made from thicker, 16 gauge steel (instead of 18), adding extra stability. I cut the flange on one side to bend down behind the backbox for extra security, they are absolutely not going to pivot or sag downward which is concern 1 through 10. Obviously this is not the final location: I still have to rough in the height / length positioning, likely with a shim of height TBD on top of the backbox, as you can see. But that's the general idea and I think if I paint it purple it will coordinate nicely. I could probably even use just one cantilever bar, but I like the symmetry of two framing the lamp and if I have time to refine the design, I might even be able to hide the lamp housing a little more elegantly (within the cantilever instead of hanging below).

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Quoted from Pincho_Paxton:

I was thinking that maybe you could put the light up here like this...[quoted image]

Holy carp the "LE UV Topper"! I like how you even extended the art A purple fresnel lens might even coordinate with the flourish I added to the speaker panel (an idea I borrowed from a legendary collector in Cincinnati). Something like that would take more time than I have now with the show in a few weeks... but it definitely has merit for version 2.0. My main concern is the directional throw of the light against the playfield; UV reactions are fairly directional. But that can all be tested in time.

I did look at the Titan glow rubber, but not all sizes are available... the post rings especially, which would have been great for the inlanes, were not available. But it's an idea I'm considering. Not sure if it's necessary yet or not... here's a teaser of what it looks like with GI off and inserts on:

TFUVIG (resized).jpg

It's pretty amazing in person. And while I was originally concerned about the overhead light causing glare, look what it does to the ball! You'll see a sprite of purple starlight flying around the playfield! (yes, the ball may still be harder to track than normal but since Snail Time is a "bonus mode" of unlimited balls, it almost doesn't matter. And if you have to adjust your concentration to be better, well... Steve Richie would yell at you anyway LOL. Plus it ups the challenge in classic risk/reward fashion).

#56 15 days ago

Got the relay today... did some quick-and-dirty test wiring and... IT WORKS! HOLY SHIT IT WORKS! GI goes off, UV comes on! Tested with the end-of-Snail-Time-flicker, AND with a Tilt! I almost can't believe it!

So now I just need to clean the install and confirm the code theory as a go!

Video of the test later, maybe, if I get a chance.... busy non-pinball weekend ahead....

#57 14 days ago

I refined the light rig a little more and mounted it. It's self-contained and removable. I can grab it and move the machine without causing it to deflect or bend so I don't think I need to worry about its stability. Not sure if I will keep the purple color it is now, or go darker. I know it doesn't match "purple" (dark blue) on the cabinet, BUT it matches the focal point of the backglass, and the illuminated light itself. Not sure if this is the "final" form... it's still more a prototype of sorts but at least it's somewhat presentable.

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I mounted the UV relay in the lower cabinet, and spliced its output line into a power cord that plugs into the service outlet. The other end of that cord is a receptacle, and hangs out the back of the cabinet with the game's original power cord. The UV boom plugs into that, so it is removable as one unit, but the 120V feed line is only in the lower cab and not the backbox. The relay's trigger signal line is a separate run that goes up into the head, with a removable connector that taps into the stock relay signal line. So the wiring is clean and allows the head and boom to all be removed as if OEM equipment.

And now, on to the coding challenge...

#58 14 days ago

I’m impressed by the UV reactive paint job you did. Also impressed you have prototype integration working with the relay. I keep thinking there has to be a better solution with the UV light.

Like routing out channels in the side of the cabinet to insert UV led strips, or even mounts like the “pinstadiums”

#59 13 days ago

I don't disagree. The more I consider the playfield in the cabinet though, the more challenging I think this will be. Unless there are higher-intensity high-throw strip LEDs, it may not be truly optimal to use a "stadium" style solution because there is only about 3/8" above the playfield so it's tough to cram stuff in. Plus that would obstruct some art on the plastics. Any hidden solution will likely have to be a combination of elements and bulbs which rapidly becomes complex in terms of wiring and consistency.

I do have a set of pinstadiums I was given for helping demo them at a show, and am not using, but I don't think they have the UV option. I will check fitment though.

After sleeping on it, I think I need to make the light boom darker, though. Or maybe match the cabinet blue. Or maybe it would look better without the prototyping holes. Hmm...

#60 13 days ago

It's going to be really difficult to find a solution to put lighting in the playfield area on these older games for stuff like this. There's just not the clearance from the playfield rails to the glass that we're used to with modern DMD games. The UV GI options are all pretty much terrible (really poor light spread). Even routing a channel in the side of the cabinet and putting LED strip lights in there is far from optimal, unless you just happen to like staring directly at high intensity UV for long periods of time. Doesn't sound good for anyone's eyes, IMO. The overhead mount is the best option, IMO.

#61 13 days ago

Just an off the wall idea but could you install a one way uv reflective film on the underside of the playfield glass and high intensity uv LEDs on the front of the apron? Would the film give you enough bounce to light the playfield? I have no idea if that would work.

https://tinyurl.com/vox29sg
https://tinyurl.com/wcubyf9
https://tinyurl.com/u94xtrb

#62 13 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Just an off the wall idea but could you install a one way uv reflective film on the underside of the playfield glass and high intensity uv LEDs on the front of the apron? Would the film give you enough bounce to light the playfield? I have no idea if that would work.

Now that's some clever thinking... no doubt, the solution might require something that creative, and I don't think I would have thought of that one. I even have some spare old pf glass, and if that film can be found in full-width it might be cheap / crazy enough to try just to see. My first thought is the normal play through the backside of the film would be hazy in appearance and ultimately unacceptable. But I'll file that under "don't know til you try".

Speaking of things you don't know til you try, the light boom color: don't think anyone would argue my first thought of "hmm, purple could work...." but after sleeping on it, it was clear to me that it didn't.

Was out shopping for supplies for my basement-disaster-jackhammering ordeal and saw some spray paint being clearanced out - almost all gone, but one lone can of dark blue remained. For $2 I knew I'd use it "someday". Got home and had a light bulb moment. I think this definitely looks better.
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#63 13 days ago

If you want the uv to come as a surprise just mount an old web cam on the boom and most people will just think you have it set up for streaming.

#64 13 days ago

What type of clearcoat did you use for this project?
The reason I ask, is the automotive clear i've used has UV inhibitors in it to resist fading from sunlight. I tried some glow-in-the-dark paint on a space themed playfield once to accent a few stars. But, once the clear was on, they would not glow.

#65 13 days ago

Great question and I had the same concerns. I made a test board of UV color swatches and tested a few sprays.

To get the point, for the final build coats I used KBS Diamond Finish Clear aerosol, which had no ill effect. I would have considered SprayMax for this, but that only has a 2day shelf life once mixed and if it proved to be UV blocking I had no other timely use for it, and did not want to waste an expensive can.

I am limited to a basement workshop; even though I ran an effective ventilation system, super toxic fumes are not something I welcome. However, long before the final build coats, because I needed to seal and protect my work between the individual color applications, I opted to use standard off-the-shelf spray clears (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) which are slightly less toxic than KBS DFC. I found that one of them did indeed block the UV effect, but the other did not. I can't recall which brand off hand because at some point they all look and sound the same so I will have to confirm at home.

In the end, I kinda wish I had used the mix-it-yourself KBS DFC liquid (non-aerosol), like I did for my Bad Cats. I can confirm - based on some leftover from that project which since solidified in a sealed sample jar - that the KBS DFC liquid is not UV-blocking... to a point. It might start to block if it gets too thick. The liquid formula is thicker, harder, and better at self-leveling. But YEESH that stuff was a bear to mix and spray and clean and I did not enjoy the process or the cleanup or the smell, and it also takes a long time to cure. Now, if this project only needed a few final build/finish coats of clear like a typical restore using typical paints, I would have gone that way. But there was SO MUCH intermediary work (doing almost EVERY COLOR on nearly the entire playfield, in thick UV pigments to feather and blend on a super-fragile surrounding strata) that I opted for the shortcut of "household" clears and aerosol cans, otherwise this would have taken many months of ongoing frustration and distraction and delay. And maybe the KBS liquid would have been too thick.

Ultimately, I'm not sure that was the right decision as I've seen some tells of concern. I probably need to consider adding a few more layers of clear, and maybe will after expo. But this was certainly a challenge in many ways and a valuable learning experience.

TLDR; your question is a key point with regards to UV effects. My advice is to consider your options and test a sample of clear against your paint first if possible.

#66 12 days ago

Thank you for the detailed response! I recall KBS being mentioned in another restoration thread. Perhaps i'll get a can to test on a wallhanger playfield. Any suggestion on a retail location? I see that's its on Amazon..

I can sympathize with the complexity of using UV paint. I airbrushed my fathom cabinet with UV paint (pics in profile) and it had to be painted in the dark with a black light in order to get the opacity or concentration correct. Meaning, the color would look nice and even in normal light, but in black light it would be patchy.

#67 12 days ago

I'll see if I can ask my guy what he used on my Crescendo. It's holding up great, and I don't know what prep work he did after I gave him the playfield, but it looks amazing. I didn't seal between color coats, and I just lightly sanded the playfield as it was, and painted right over the old paint with Createx.

#69 11 days ago

Absolutely rad.. congrats on getting this far!

#70 11 days ago

Really nice looking Game, great job. . I've been following this and almost hate to see it come to an end.. Best of luck at the show with it.

#71 11 days ago

Are you going to be bringing a tent or something so the show lights don’t interfere with the effect? Don’t want to have the stranger things projector situation going on..

#72 11 days ago

I could always step up to the 50w spotlight...

#73 11 days ago

What are you doing with the pop bumper area? they look purple; but are they Evos?
I'm wondering if the bottom side of a Evo could be setup with UV LEDs in a similar vain to what I did for my STNG PopCaps. I couldn't tell in the video; but the popcap leds looked dimly lit during snail time.

#74 11 days ago

coming along very nicely! if you would still get adequate uv light coverage with the light mount rotated 90 degrees so it matches the width of the backbox would be a little more stealthy.

if you have solid iron angle stock I would try that or just make a wooden rectangular picture type frame for the mount , painting a scallop type pattern on the sides of the frame mimicking the bottom part of the cabinet might fit well .

#75 10 days ago

Amazing work! I didn't realize you where making the UV part of a gameplay feature.

#76 10 days ago

I made a new video talking about some of the other things I changed and customized, including the pop bumpers. I hope it's informative:

I didn't mention the blackened side rails... I did that specifically to focus on the color contrasts... I found the woodgrain to be a more distracting clash than usual, whereas blackened rails continue as a seamless extension of the playfield and almost make the art seem to "float".

Quoted from pinballjj:

coming along very nicely! if you would still get adequate uv light coverage with the light mount rotated 90 degrees so it matches the width of the backbox would be a little more stealthy.
if you have solid iron angle stock I would try that or just make a wooden rectangular picture type frame for the mount , painting a scallop type pattern on the sides of the frame mimicking the bottom part of the cabinet might fit well .

I do like the idea of using solid metal stock, and that will probably come in the future if I don't find an acceptable "under glass" solution. I also like the idea of using the "scallops" from the cabinet art... I could maybe even try something like that now. But I can't say I like the idea of wood, which in this application would be far too fragile for my taste. But the other ideas are solid!

#77 9 days ago

Heh... I guess I was neither informative nor entertaining. Oh well, I tried!

ANYWAY I hooked up the flippers for a few debugging plays and OH MY GOD is the UV-mode *awesome* in game play! The ball almost like... completely disappears! All you see is that sprite-like UV reflection and while it's not as hard to track or follow as you'd think, it's trippy as hell watching a "black hole" fly over the glowing art! I did NOT forsee that effect playing out!

Hopefully I'll get some gameplay video soon.

#78 9 days ago

they make glow in the dark balls. it looks like a twilight zone ceramic ball. but it's heavier. maybe try that.

#79 9 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Heh... I guess I was neither informative nor entertaining. Oh well, I tried!
ANYWAY I hooked up the flippers for a few debugging plays and OH MY GOD is the UV-mode *awesome* in game play! The ball almost like... completely disappears! All you see is that sprite-like UV reflection and while it's not as hard to track or follow as you'd think, it's trippy as hell watching a "black hole" fly over the glowing art! I did NOT forsee that effect playing out!
Hopefully I'll get some gameplay video soon.

Huh. That's interesting. I've always had a Globall in my Crescendo, both so it could be seen more easily, and also because globall+clearcoat+fully rebuilt playfield on an EM is just some ludicrous BS.

*Edit* Globalls are BARELY heavier than a powerball... they're substantially lighter than a regular ball.

#80 8 days ago

"Ludicrous BS" would be a great title theme. Either as a completely original one, or possibly a Tesla license...

The more I / we've played it though, the more the stock "disappearing" ball is awesome. It's really not difficult to track at all but it really messes with your head that you can't really "see" it the way you're used to. No doubt, the bulk of the pf being black enhances this effect. It's a truly happy surprise I wasn't expectiing at all!

#81 8 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

"Ludicrous BS" would be a great title theme. Either as a completely original one, or possibly a Tesla license...
The more I / we've played it though, the more the stock "disappearing" ball is awesome. It's really not difficult to track at all but it really messes with your head that you can't really "see" it the way you're used to. No doubt, the bulk of the pf being black enhances this effect. It's a truly happy surprise I wasn't expectiing at all!

Well, the Crescendo layout is definitely perfect for a "Ludicrous BS" re-theme, because you're going to be yelling at it more often than not over how many house balls there are with that massive flipper gap and double pop bumper-to-drain config at the bottom, with no slings to get it out of there. LOL.

1 week later
#82 2 days ago

Alright! First up, I'm not a streamer: I extended my tripod all the way up, leaned it against the game, and precariously balanced my cellphone within an oversized tablet bracket. So the angle's not perfect, and there's some reflection duplication from the glass...

...but here's some gameplay video. I focused on getting UV-Snail mode instead of "best scoring", and ended up getting it twice. Still love how the ball "disappears"!

(Daresay, my UV implementation is better than Stern's on Stranger Things.... )

#84 10 hours ago

Can I dig it? yeap; I dig it.
Thumbs up here... Thumbs up on YouTube.

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