Wish these shipped to Western Australia from Pinside shop?
Quoted from oldskool1969:Wish these shipped to Western Australia from Pinside shop?
he has an offsider that looks after Australia and Europe apparently
For those that have been asking for color LEDs, the "Yoppsicle Spectrum" line has been ordered. I will let y'all know when they are here and I've put them up in the marketplace. Thanks.
Quoted from oldskool1969:Wish these shipped to Western Australia from Pinside shop?
Contact Vince Geeves who is local to Australia (vg2992 is his gmail name). Be advised that he sets his own prices and shipping charges, etc.
Finally...FINALLY, finished Mata Hari playfield using the gen#1 Yoppsicle's from
dyopp21 and they turned out great!
also shortened them and used them in the pop bumpers...all good!
A great product...next up Bobby Orr's Power Play ! (might have to order some more!)
Thank you VID for the great review and information!
Thank you Mr. Yopp for a great product for replacing the cheap socket/bulb combination with a nice LED solution!
I bought some warm and cool white yoppsicles and just finished a Bally Ground Shaker playfield swap. I just screwed down the common wire with washers and staples, as seen in the picture below:
Yoppsicle_GroundShaker_back (resized).JPG
I did take Skidave's suggestion to use colored cellophane to do some color corrections, as also seen in the above picture. The red inserts on the replacement playfield were different from each other, as the left outlane and drop target specials were too transparent. The right outlane and special next to the center pop bumper were fine.
Yoppsicle_GroundShaker_top (resized).JPG
It was hard to get a good picture showing accurate colors, but they look great in real life!
Again, thanks to VID and Mr. Yopp. I am no longer anti LED!
Quoted from Johnnybee:Thank you VID for the great review and information!
Thank you Mr. Yopp for a great product for replacing the cheap socket/bulb combination with a nice LED solution!
I bought some warm and cool white yoppsicles and just finished a Bally Ground Shaker playfield swap. I just screwed down the common wire with washers and staples, as seen in the picture below:
[quoted image]
I did take Skidave's suggestion to use colored cellophane to do some color corrections, as also seen in the above picture. The red inserts on the replacement playfield were different from each other, as the left outlane and drop target specials were too transparent. The right outlane and special next to the center pop bumper were fine.
[quoted image]
It was hard to get a good picture showing accurate colors, but they look great in real life!
Again, thanks to VID and Mr. Yopp. I am no longer anti LED!
As a huge fan of Comet LEDs in everything I was very pleased with the yopps installed in my Quicksilver.
I'm really glad to see my fellow hobbyists adopt the Yoppsicles. I just got something in that I wanted to share a sneak picture of.
Ys spectrum (resized).jpg
They were in very limited stock of the color LED's so I only have a few hundred of each, and I HAVE TO TEST THEM before I can put them up on my biz page, but I wanted y'all to know they are coming and hopefully they will help with some color correction. I will have red, green, orange, yellow and blue and I plan to offer them as individual sticks instead of only panels of 50. I will also probably offer them as a complete panel, which would be 10 of each color. The cost will be a little higher but not by much. I'll let yall know when I've got them up in the marketplace and I appreciate everyone's patience as I work to install some to make sure they are good to go.
How do these compare to the Anarchy LED boards? Haven’t tried either yet but I have a lot of EM machines such as target pool that have those game specific bulb strips and they are pretty rotten and will need to update.
What a great concept!
Quoted from dyopp21:vid1900 Glad you got them and thanks for putting them through the paces. I’ve ordered more stock in anticipation of adding them to my Pinside store.
Yopp
I need to order another block from you, I think Trek is going to be all "yopp" as well.
Quoted from vid1900:I'm back stateside today, and installing some new goodies....zoom in for money shot
[quoted image]
I'm looking forward to seeing your review of which colors look best vs the insert color.
I'll also be ordering some of the new color options.
Yoppsicle part II:
So I got some sheets of colored yopps, but the hard part was going to be how to demonstrate the color differences with a camera.
Even trying to use a White Balance Card was hardly of any use in getting the results to the sensor behind the lens
I decided to just do one of each color, and describe what my eyes are seeing.....
-
-
On the Xenon exit tube ring of green, I replaced insert #35 and the Red center center insert with color matched yopps
There are Orange and Yellow yopps too.
The inserts below the blue XENON letters are amber.
Which color yopp would be the better match?
I installed the Yellow in the N, and the Orange in the E - side by side (all the other letters are lit by Warm White )
So side by side, the Yellow N looks exactly like the the other letters lit by Warm White. No difference in brightness either. If you paid me, I could not tell you which letter was lit by Yellow.
On the other hand, the Orange E, is slightly dimmer than the Warm White, but very orange.
In person, the Orange looks quite rich in color.
So which color looks better under an Amber insert? The Yellow or Warm White look very traditional, closer to incandescent. The Orange gives a very saturated color; maybe not as authentic, but it's richness is really nice.
I lit up each LED while still on the sheet, and again, no duds! Quality stuff here.
So after trying each color, here are my conclusions:
Red - Looks great, both in clear and opaque red inserts. Brightness is as bright as a Warm White.
Green - Amazing. Deep, saturated green. Bright as a Cool White
Orange - Deep, saturated Orange color. Dimmer than a Warm White (but many would consider that a good thing).
Yellow - Looks the same as a Warm White under a clear Amber or Opaque Yellow insert. I might go as far as to say 'this is an unnecessary color' to keep in your kit. Might as well give more Green or Blue lamps in place of the yellow (for instance, there were not enough Green lamps to do a Xenon, nor would there be enough Blue to do a Vector)
Blue - Hell Yeah! These make your old, faded blue inserts pop. Brightness is as bright as a Cool White.
(there is no Purple, as I can't think of any SS Classic Bally with a purple insert)
Quoted from vid1900:.
(there is no Purple, as I can't think of any SS Classic Bally with a purple insert)
Big Game/Stars has a few if we wanna count Sterns
But I can't think of a Bally....the vagina one?
Edit: Embryon? Maybe not, just trying to think of something with a wide variety
So I’m about to swap an ebd playfield and man some of those colored led would be clutch... how long before they are available?
Ok... now that THAT is done, I will be getting my marketplace page set up to sell them. Sorry for the delay, but I didn't feel comfortable putting them on the market until someone could field test them other than myself. Having someone with Vid's authority in the hobby was icing on the cake.
I've got several machines down at the bar that I'm heading to troubleshoot and fix. Right after that I'll be getting a stock count of the spectrum Yoppsicles and get them up on my marketplace page. Hope to have them up and offered by the end of this weekend. I appreciate everyone's continued patience!
Vid, thanks a million for the review!
Yopp
Quoted from vid1900:I might go as far as to say 'this is an unnecessary color' to keep in your kit. Might as well give more Green or Blue lamps in place of the yellow
This was exactly my hunch when I saw the color distribution of the 50 stick board. Would almost be worth doing some metrics on a bunch of high-production Bally games and see which colors are most prominent, minus yellow. Might end up with something like:
15 blue
15 red
10 orange
10 green
...or whatever the survey says.
So I just installed these in a Stern Meteor. They're well worth it hands down! Very easy and almost relaxing doing the swap.
Anyway, I have 3 that are flickering probably due to the SCRs not latching completely. Anyone find a quick fix for this? It's the original lamp driver. On the 6803 games, I used to solder a 100ohm resistor across the LED and it quit flickering.
Edit: for the record, Meteor has purple inserts.
Quoted from GLSP3022:So I just installed these in a Stern Meteor. They're well worth it hands down! Very easy and almost relaxing doing the swap.
Anyway, I have 3 that are flickering probably due to the SCRs not latching completely. Anyone find a quick fix for this? It's the original lamp driver. On the 6803 games, I used to solder a 100ohm resistor across the LED and it quit flickering.
[quoted image]
Edit: for the record, Meteor has purple inserts.
Answered my own question:
Yes, yes it does work. I bridged a 150 ohm resistor across the terminals of the Yoppsicle and the flickering is gone. Nice steady LED now.
Quoted from GLSP3022:Answered my own question:
Yes, yes it does work. I bridged a 150 ohm resistor across the terminals of the Yoppsicle and the flickering is gone. Nice steady LED now. [quoted image]
To the electronics experts out there- I have one single stick in the numbered grid on my Freefall that I can't get to stop flickering. I haven't messed with it in a while, but back when I was dealing with it I tried bridging a 150 ohm resistor as suggested above and still no bueno. It occurred to me more recently that bridging the new resistor along with the original surface mount resistor, would those two resistor not be actually in parallel? I'm thinking of opening it back up and swiping the SMD off with a hot iron and bridging a larger resistor. Maybe something in the 470 range. Anyone think this might help?
You did put the resistor in parallel, so you likely reduced the effective resistance by half(Assuming you used the same value as what the SMD was).
Try the 470 ohm in series with the LED and see what happens. One other thought, you may have found a bad LED. Have you tried a different one in its place?
Quoted from Billc479:You did put the resistor in parallel, so you likely reduced the effective resistance by half(Assuming you used the same value as what the SMD was).
Based on the quoted post, it sounds like he may have put it across the entire board, so I think it would be in parallel with the existing resistor + LED.
Could be, but either way, he definitely reduced the overall resistance.
Looking forward to what he finds
Quoted from Billc479:Could be, but either way, he definitely reduced the overall resistance.
It's in parallel with the whole assembly, so measured through/at the LED, the current and voltage are the same. Like you said before, try it in series with the LED.
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