(Topic ID: 71353)

Yet another Getaway Up/Down ramp problem

By yonkiman

10 years ago


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ramp close.jpg
HEP ramp.jpg
RampUp.JPG
RampDown.JPG
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#1 10 years ago

First, I discovered a new way to create a problem: I cleaned and rebuilt the ramp up/down assembly at the same time I was cleaning/rebuilding some other assemblies and accidentally swapped plungers with another assembly. The (incorrect) plunger now in my "up" assembly was a little shorter (2" or 2 1/8"), which means the ramp up action will try to extend the ramp even higher, causing it to bind. I figured out my mistake and put the right plunger back in and that fixed the binding in the "up" position...for about 2 games.

It's basically still binding/overextending. If I manually push the bar under the ramp to the left a bit after it's raised, then firing the down solenoid will lower the ramp. But the next time it goes up, it binds stuck high.

I've been reading as much as I can find about this on pinside and other sites and saw some people talk about making adjustments to the mechanism on the bottom of the playfield. I can't find any adjustments there. The only adjustment I'm aware of is the position of the ramp bar on the actuator arm. I've played with it to no effect (it's currently set to the lowest position since it seems like that would cause the least binding).

I removed all the previous grease/gunk, so the mechanism is clean and loose...maybe too loose? There seems to be more lateral play than I'd expect. But it worked fine before I cleaned and "fixed" it ( ) so I don't think that's it. Any suggestions?

#2 10 years ago

I had this exact problem after I restored my game. I went through it for hours and I know I did everything properly but still was binding/overextending.

I found an old post on RGP that said the only way to 100% fix the issue is to put a rubber sleeve or similar item in the metal groove at the end of the slot that the arm rides in. I used a cliffy sleeve cut in half and sliced it and wedged it in the metal where the arm hits and it completely solved the problem. Now the arm hits that cliffy and it can't bind.

Trust me it works.

#3 10 years ago

Another tip to bullet proof the up and down ramp , watch the vid below it goes into the fix .

Enjoy

#4 10 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

...the only way to 100% fix the issue is to put a rubber sleeve or similar item in the metal groove at the end of the slot that the arm rides in...Trust me it works.

I totally trust you and will definitely do this if all else fails. But it bothers me a lot that it worked fine before I rebuilt it, so I'd like to find and fix the root cause before I give up and just fix the symptom. I'm also slightly worried that while the fix you suggest would definitely work, the plunger slamming the assembly into the modified cliffy might (over time) bend some of the parts.

But I'm certainly not above doing this if I can't figure out what I messed up. Thanks!

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from criss:

You need a coach bolt to bullet proof the up and down ramp , watch the vid below it goes into the fix.

Thanks Criss, but that bolt was there to solve the problem of the ramp not locking in the up position. That's the opposite of the problem I'm having.

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

I totally trust you and will definitely do this if all else fails. But it bothers me a lot that it worked fine before I rebuilt it, so I'd like to find and fix the root cause before I give up and just fix the symptom. I'm also slightly worried that while the fix you suggest would definitely work, the plunger slamming the assembly into the modified cliffy might (over time) bend some of the parts.
But I'm certainly not above doing this if I can't figure out what I messed up. Thanks!

Without the cliffy its slamming the metal groove. The reality is the groove should be smaller so the arm can't travel that far. If you find another fix post it here but I expect you to give in eventually.

#7 10 years ago

Any chance you can post a picture of your cliffy fix would be great for reference .

Quoted from JoeJet:

I had this exact problem after I restored my game. I went through it for hours and I know I did everything properly but still was binding/overextending.
I found an old post on RGP that said the only way to 100% fix the issue is to put a rubber sleeve or similar item in the metal groove at the end of the slot that the arm rides in. I used a cliffy sleeve cut in half and sliced it and wedged it in the metal where the arm hits and it completely solved the problem. Now the arm hits that cliffy and it can't bind.
Trust me it works.

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

Thanks Criss, but that bolt was there to solve the problem of the ramp not locking in the up position. That's the opposite of the problem I'm having.

No probs let us know what fix you end up with

#9 10 years ago

I had this game years ago....the end result for my ramp problem was a broken bracket. Sorry I can't remember part name etc., but the bracket was located at the back edge of the pf and not the easiest to see/ notice that it was broken.

I know you said it worked prior but you never know...my ramp worked then didn't etc. just another thought for you to check. I also had to really 'dial in'/adjust the latch/lock coil relay for the up/down. Good luck.

#10 10 years ago

Page 2-29 in manual...part 12...lift mech bracket assembly. B-11302

#11 10 years ago

Wow, the whole bracket? image.jpgimage.jpg. Do you remember what was wrong with it? Was it a worn shaft? Would like to know what to look for before I buy it.

The assembly seems to work just fine when it's not mounted (though as I mentioned there's a fair amount of play). It's only when it's installed and completely inaccessible deep in the far end of the cabinet that it acts up...

Thanks CR, I appreciate the suggestion. I'll add it to this list of things to look out for.

#12 10 years ago

Be sure you didn't wire anything wrong or nicked a wire. I tore one apart and the start button of all things had a nick in the wire causing the ramp to malfunction

#13 10 years ago

Dd you also swap the coil stops ? If those are incorrect it can also mess up the ramp. If you have a shorter than normal stop it is allowing the plunger to travel father in than it should

#14 10 years ago

One of my Getaways had the issue where it would bind in the up position and it was due to the positioning of the gold latch. If the latch is in the position that requires the ramp to go too high, then it will get stuck in upright position before the arm can get in the locked position. I fixed it by rotating the gold latch on the small coil so the travel of the ramp required to latch was not as far. I owned 4 Getaways and cannot stress enough how much that gold latch really seems to cause a lot of trouble. If not positioned correctly it can a) cause the ramp to go too high and bind or b) not allow it to go high enough to lock and the ramp would just fall back down. In my last picture you can see how it binded and did not travel far enough to go past the finger.

Another thing you might want to check is that the arm that pushes the ramp up is all the way in the bottom of that bracket. There is a nut that holds it in place and it can work it's way up when loose. If that is not all the way down, then it will make the ramp go higher then is should and also cause it to bind.

Front.JPGFront.JPG
Back.JPGBack.JPG
RampDown.JPGRampDown.JPG
RampUp.JPGRampUp.JPG

#15 10 years ago

Thanks Bojo - great example pics!

#16 10 years ago
Quoted from Chrizg:

Did you also swap the coil stops ? If those are incorrect it can also mess up the ramp. If you have a shorter than normal stop it is allowing the plunger to travel father in than it should

You know, I thought about that but didn't compare all the similar assemblies. I think I'll just pull all the assemblies out and make sure the plungers and coil stops are correct for each of them.

#17 10 years ago

I had to replace the bracket on mine as well as it was bent and broken - the PO had a whole mess of screws in the wood to hold it all together.

While putting it together I did notice that there is a lot of 'play' in the gold latch as BoJo mentions above. I noticed that the coil can rotate a fair amount and the arm itself has some side to side movement plus the ability for it to tilt as well in the slots (which I tightened up some). I would check this area out.

#18 10 years ago

While we're all gathered here, let's talk about ramp alignment on the playfield. When I reassembled my machine, I was disappointed that the up/down ramp was not particularly flush/parallel with the back wall (it extended at an angle and landed halfway across the "road"), but I couldn't find any non-scary ways to adjust it. Then I looked at the pics on the HEP website and was comforted - Christopher's ramp was angled out about the same as mine HEP ramp.jpgHEP ramp.jpg and I never imagined for a second that I could do anything better than CH.

But then I saw the ramp in the video Criss posted above - it's perfectly aligned with the wall, as I'm sure Brian Ritchie and God intended:
ramp close.jpgramp close.jpg

How aligned is the ramp on your machine? Does anyone have any tips for improving it?

#19 10 years ago

Bracket cracked at the back of the pf where attached...tough to see. What made it even tougher to find was the seller I got the game from tried to hide it by a 'home made' fix by placing a pc of metal over it that looked original to me....not knowing. Don't buy it until you know for sure if in fact it is broken...a few options that are suspect w/that assembly as mentioned.

As written and I mentioned, there is adjustment to be made w/coil/bracket.

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