(Topic ID: 155964)

Yet another gameroom build thread


By amkoepfer

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 604 posts
  • 72 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MustangPaul
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

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    There are 603 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 13.
    #451 3 years ago

    Just curious...why aren't the corners painted?

    #452 3 years ago

    Too lazy to get a brush out at the time. Ill do the corners when i do the top, then i only have to clean brushes once.

    #453 3 years ago

    Go to a electric supply place to buy receptacles.Its way cheaper.Thats where electricians buy them and they usually sell to the general public.

    #454 3 years ago

    Thanks, i may end up doing that. I have most of them bought already, but i need about 15 more. Saving anything helps!

    #455 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    the bally odds and evens shocked me bad on the coin door for some reason and didnt start a game, scott, i may need your help with that one!!!

    First thing I would do is make sure you have a (properly-installed) 3-pronged plug, and make sure your wiring is correct on the wall outlet. Then, check the switches on the coin door for potential shorts, especially where there is (supposed to be?) fish paper.

    Oh, and make sure that the coin door is properly grounded so that any stray electricity will travel that path, and not through you.

    See http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#shock

    I will donate a free 25-foot replacement cord to the cause if you need one.

    #456 3 years ago

    Ill take a look. Thanks scott. Sure hope my outlet is wired correctly!! It played fine a month ago, i moved it, and now this. Im guessing something came loose when i moved it, but i dont know em games yet. Ill learn though!

    #457 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Thanks, i may end up doing that. I have most of them bought already, but i need about 15 more. Saving anything helps!

    Your electrical code doesn't require you to use tamper proof outlets? Ours does.

    #458 3 years ago

    Code??? The 15 amp are all tamper proof. 20 amp, i never really looked at them but i doubt it.

    #459 3 years ago

    I think, but don't quote me on this, that 20 amp outlets are tamper proof by default. It's the 15 amp where you have a choice.

    #460 3 years ago

    Could be. The ones i bought at lowes were and i didnt even know it until i installed them. Maybe ill take a look and see later

    #461 3 years ago

    The difference between 15-amp and 20-amp receptacles is the 20-amp receptacle has a horizontal slot to accept the horizontal spade for the neutral conductor on a 20-amp rated plug. Tamper-proof or not is a separate issue.

    #462 3 years ago

    Also you don't have to put the 20-amp receptacles on the 20-amp circuit, you can put 15-amp receptacles on the 20-amp circuit as long as there is more than one box or something like that. I'm putting all 20-amp receptacles on the 20-amp circuit so that way it's easier to identify which outlets are 20-amp b/c of the horizontal slot. I'm not doing the whole basement in 20-amp so this way I'll be able to tell which ones are on a 20-amp circuit and which ones aren't.

    #463 3 years ago

    Thats why im doing the 20a recepticles as well. Easily identifies it as 20a

    #464 3 years ago

    Many builders today will wire an entire house with 14-2 w/ground (white Romex) and combine lighting and power (15-amp receptacles) on the same branch. I'm old school. All lighting is separate from power. All power circuits are 12-2 w/ground (yellow Romex) and 20-amp rated receptacles. Takes more wire but it's worth it. I, also, don't like GFCI's for an entire circuit. Our old house had one trip in the first floor bathroom. It was connected to some lighting in the basement. Found the fault in recessed can in the basement ceiling. And these people are suppose to be professionals!

    #465 3 years ago
    Quoted from jathomp22:

    Also you don't have to put the 20-amp receptacles on the 20-amp circuit, you can put 15-amp receptacles on the 20-amp circuit as long as there is more than one box or something like that.

    Although technically it is feasible it is rather short-sighted. It would be like putting a 4" garden hose to a nozzle that has a 1/4" opening. If you are going to spend extra money for 12 gauge wire over 14 gauge then you should spring for 20-amp receptacles. It is conceivable that you could have a 20-amp breaker, 12 gauge yellow Romex, a 15-amp wall outlet and a NEMA 5-20 plug but it won't plug in because you were too cheap to put in a 20-amp receptacle. It could handle the load but physically won't work. Moral of the story: go with yellow Romex and 20-amp wall outlets everywhere.

    #466 3 years ago

    I agree. I like knowing my 20a breaker and 12g wire has a 20a recepticle on it

    #467 3 years ago

    Em room trim painting is done. Going to wire the outlets tomorrow so i can move stuff in to its permanent home. Baseboards will be waiting a bit while i rebuild my funds. By the way.... how do you get a good clean edge at the ceiling? I taped, and still had bleed through. Even used 2 different brands of "good" painters tape!

    #468 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Em room trim painting is done. Going to wire the outlets tomorrow so i can move stuff in to its permanent home. Baseboards will be waiting a bit while i rebuild my funds. By the way.... how do you get a good clean edge at the ceiling? I taped, and still had bleed through. Even used 2 different brands of "good" painters tape!

    I use the green Frog tape. Those lines are crisp and I have never had any bleed through. I used it for Mural painting in my son's room at our old house as well to mask off areas, and it was perfect.

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    #469 3 years ago

    Hmm.... i think ive tried it before. Maybe ill give it another go. Mural looks awesome by the way!!

    #470 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Hmm.... i think ive tried it before. Maybe ill give it another go. Mural looks awesome by the way!!

    Thanks, I believe it is what helped us sell that house in 11 days. New buyers had a baby on the way!

    #471 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Em room trim painting is done. Going to wire the outlets tomorrow so i can move stuff in to its permanent home. Baseboards will be waiting a bit while i rebuild my funds. By the way.... how do you get a good clean edge at the ceiling? I taped, and still had bleed through. Even used 2 different brands of "good" painters tape!

    Back in the old days (might still be current) there was this plastic tool that was maybe about the size of a 3x5 card that had very short nap on the surface (to hold the paint) and two little plastic wheels along one of the long edges. You loaded it up with paint and pressed it against the wall. The wheels would track along the ceiling giving you a nice, even application of paint as you pulled it along. The guide wheels assured a uniform edge right to the junction of ceiling to wall. Home Depot has one called "Shur-Line paint edger" for three bucks.

    #472 3 years ago

    Ive tried those before and it always seems paint gets on the other side and screws it all up. Em room is nearly wired!!

    #473 3 years ago

    Em room is wired, circuits test good, i have one more outlet to change out, but i need to touch up the paint first. Break to play pinball, then maybe set up the music stuff!

    #474 3 years ago

    Green Frog tape for the win...it's the only thing I use.

    #475 3 years ago

    For the first time in10 months i was able to play my guitar! It felt great!!!

    #476 3 years ago

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    #477 3 years ago

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    #478 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Em room trim painting is done. Going to wire the outlets tomorrow so i can move stuff in to its permanent home. Baseboards will be waiting a bit while i rebuild my funds. By the way.... how do you get a good clean edge at the ceiling? I taped, and still had bleed through. Even used 2 different brands of "good" painters tape!

    A steady hand and a good quality trim brush I prefer Wooster brand 2 1/2" angle brush.
    Its all in the tools you use whatever the task may be.

    #479 3 years ago

    I will pass along this advice. If you use tape, be it Frog or 3M painter's tape, I had much better results if I peeled the tape off before the paint was completely dry. If I let the paint dry overnight or longer, I found that the tape would take some of the paint from the trim with it.

    #480 3 years ago

    I was using 3m and it bled. The rest im going to buy frog and try that again

    #481 3 years ago
    Quoted from Bos98:

    I use the green Frog tape. Those lines are crisp and I have never had any bleed through. I used it for Mural painting in my son's room at our old house as well to mask off areas, and it was perfect.

    Your sons room is yuuuuuuuge

    #482 3 years ago

    For sure take the tape off as soon as you've painted that area...never let it dry or set up.

    #483 3 years ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    Your sons room is yuuuuuuuge

    That was our old home. We moved out almost 1.5 years ago now, but yes he had the second largest room in the house, but that photo was also taken by our Realtor with a wide angle lens.

    #484 3 years ago

    Not much done yesterday. I hooked up my pa system and played some music with my son, wed im hoping to wire more and do more paint trim. I picked up frog tape so im hoping that it works well!

    #485 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Not much done yesterday. I hooked up my pa system and played some music with my son, wed im hoping to wire more and do more paint trim. I picked up frog tape so im hoping that it works well!

    Make sure there's no dust or dirt on the drywall before you tape it up. You can't get a clean edge if the tape isn't cleanly on the wall.

    #486 3 years ago

    Come on man, lights off, pins on... let's see it, get it done.

    #487 3 years ago

    You could have a problem getting a clean line with the tape because you have textured walls.

    #488 3 years ago
    Quoted from fiberdude120:

    You could have a problem getting a clean line with the tape because you have textured walls.

    This. Pretty sure anyways! Its close enough that ill be able to get some pics soon. Once the games get into their permanent homes ill be able to take pics of how it will look. About 25 more outlets to wire, and a lot of trim. Ill be working on it wed thru fri, so i should have some progress

    #489 3 years ago
    Quoted from fiberdude120:

    You could have a problem getting a clean line with the tape because you have textured walls.

    There is a trick I use to get perfect lines. Put your tape on, then paint a thin layer of the color that is under the tape so that you seal the seam. Let this dry well. Now paint your other color, pull tape. Straight line.

    So if you have a blue wall and want a red line... paint wall blue, tape, thin blue layer over seam, dry, paint red, pull.

    This is useful for playfield restoration sometimes as well.

    #490 3 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    There is a trick I use to get perfect lines. Put your tape on, then paint a thin layer of the color that is under the tape so that you seal the seam. Let this dry well. Now paint your other color, pull tape. Straight line.
    So if you have a blue wall and want a red line... paint wall blue, tape, thin blue layer over seam, dry, paint red, pull.
    This is useful for playfield restoration sometimes as well.

    Nice trick,I will have to try that.

    #491 3 years ago

    Thats a great trick. I am going to try that!

    #492 3 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    There is a trick I use to get perfect lines. Put your tape on, then paint a thin layer of the color that is under the tape so that you seal the seam. Let this dry well. Now paint your other color, pull tape. Straight line.
    So if you have a blue wall and want a red line... paint wall blue, tape, thin blue layer over seam, dry, paint red, pull.
    This is useful for playfield restoration sometimes as well.

    I've done that and it works great but you have to make sure you use a THIN layer of paint, just enough to seal it.

    #493 3 years ago

    Thanks for the tip. Frog tape says to pull while the paint is wet, is doing one color as a seal and letting that dry going to mess with the frogtape seal at all? Perhaps ill try just regular old 3m painters tape first

    #494 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Thanks for the tip. Frog tape says to pull while the paint is wet, is doing one color as a seal and letting that dry going to mess with the frogtape seal at all? Perhaps ill try just regular old 3m painters tape first

    It shouldn't mess with the frog tape seal as long as the paint is fully dry. if I understand correctly, I'd paint the seal as close to the tape with getting as little on the tape as you can, let it dry, then paint second color and pull tape.

    Everything is looking great!

    #495 3 years ago
    Quoted from amkoepfer:

    Thanks for the tip. Frog tape says to pull while the paint is wet, is doing one color as a seal and letting that dry going to mess with the frogtape seal at all? Perhaps ill try just regular old 3m painters tape first

    They say to pull wet because latex paint is basically a plastic and so it can tend to stretch and tear. You can pull dry usually without issue, but try pulling the tape so the back is faced against the remaining as you pull. Don't yank it straight out, away from the wall. Hope that makes sense.

    I sometimes run a razor blade along the edge before I pull the tape, usually in corners.

    I think the bigger problem with masking is the tape pulling chunks of the paint underneath. To avoid that, you just gotta do proper surface prep... good primer, good paint in nice even coats, and let it dry THOROUGHLY. You can also use the tape made for delicate surfaces that has lower adhesion (try yellow frog tape).

    #497 3 years ago

    Definately makes sense, thanks!

    #498 3 years ago

    Who knew installing 5 dimmers would be an all day project? My bank of 3 switches had the gang box sunk in and loose and the screws stripped, so i had the idea of just cutting it out and replacing it with an old work box. Well they dont sell hard shell 3 gang boxes at lowes or home depot, and the 55ci boxes are slightly smaller, so theres a gap that wont allow it to squeeze the drywall. I was able to position it halfway in between to kind of hold, and the plates on the switches and cover help hold it temporarily until i can find a box that fits. Ugggh

    #499 3 years ago

    Radium- hopefully ill be able to take some lights off pins on pics friday!

    #500 3 years ago

    11 more outlets to go to finish up my last 3 20a circuits. Games are somewhat moved to where they should go (im sure ill change it up before im all done). Tomorrow i hope to get around to painting. I will try and post some pics tonight of lights off games on

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