(Topic ID: 313922)

Yet another F14 flashers not working thread

By Homeslice666

2 years ago


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There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

Another stupid question time.

Can anyone confirm that this is an adequate replacement for U17?

https://www.newark.com/texas-instruments/sn74hc08n/ic-quad-2-input-and-74hc08-dip14/dp/29AH1484?CMP=e-email-sys-invoice-NA-Product

#52 1 year ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

Can anyone confirm that this is an adequate replacement for U17?

It has only a 5 ma current limit.

https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Fairchild%20PDFs/DM7408.pdf

This one has 16 ma current limit.

2 weeks later
#53 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The 4 flashers in the backbox, alternate back and forth in pairs during the game and at the end of the game.

These four flashers flicker during the game at times, two of them flash at end of game when one defeats Yagov and the cheery music plays, and none of them light at end of game when you don't defeat Yagov and he taunts you. Does that sound correct?

So, I eventually had my board sent out for repair. Interestingly enough, during the diagnostic mode Flasher #10 fires very faintly. The white and blue playfield flashers glow faintly when the test is ongoing and the backbox flashers barely flash. The original setup had a single white playfield flasher and two backbox flashers on #10. I wonder if Flasher #10 isn't working correctly as it should have three bulbs on it, not four.

I'm going to restore Flasher #7 and the two omitted bulbs nonetheless.

#54 1 year ago

I'm not sure what you mean by "The original setup" ? None of the flashers should glow dim. And they should fire very bright during solenoid test.

When you restore the missing bulb sockets I recomend you use heat shrink on both the sockets and the switch stacks next to them. You don't want 30 volts touching the switches which are 5 volts.

#55 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I'm not sure what you mean by "The original setup" ? None of the flashers should glow dim. And they should fire very bright during solenoid test.
When you restore the missing bulb sockets I recomend you use heat shrink on both the sockets and the switch stacks next to them. You don't want 30 volts touching the switches which are 5 volts.

I was referring to early F14s when I said "original setup"

Should these flashers flash at the end scene when one does not defeat Yagov?

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