(Topic ID: 97001)

Yet Another #44 vs. #47 Lamp Question


By UvulaBob

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Atomicboy
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

I've been given the OK to put a pin in the break room at work, so I'm putting in a Williams Road Kings. I've scrubbed it with Magic Eraser and have gone to town with the Novus 2. Now I'm at the point where I'm trying to decide what kind of bulbs to use. I really want to make a good impression, so I want it to really POP. However, it's also possible that this thing could be turned on at the end of the day on Friday and stay on straight through until Monday - or longer if I'm out of the office.

I guess what I'm wondering is what kind of bulb setups would you guys use if you had a machine in a semi-controlled non-home-use state. I'd like to use 44's where possible, but I also want to minimize any heat damage that results from being left on too long. So here are my questions. If you were in my position, what bulbs would you use on each of these areas?

Backglass: The backglass for Road Kings is less painted glass and more like plexiglass. Do 44's have any adverse affect on this material over 47's?

General Illumination: I'm pretty sure the GI should be 47's, since the plastics that sit over them are pretty susceptible to heat damage.

Feature Lamps: It's possible the machine could be in attract mode for 48 hours straight over a weekend (or longer). Is there ever a case where 44's in feature lamps that blink for that long could still have adverse effects?

Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

Y not LEDs?

#3 5 years ago

If the location it's in has decent lighting, 47s will be fine everywhere. Check the playfield for washed out inserts and put 44s there.

I have seen quite a few RKs and none of them had any heat damage to the backglass.

#4 5 years ago

LEDs if at all possible or #47's everywhere. Unless you have another machines sitting next to it you won't really be able to tell the difference. As well as heat, I would be considering the strain/s that #44 vs #47 vs LEDs put on the boards if the machine is left on for days.

#5 5 years ago

Maybe I was looking at some pricey ones, but LEDs are, like, two bucks a bulb, no? That's pretty expensive, even if I'm putting it on the company's dime.

This'll be going in an office building break room, which means florescent lights abound. I'm hopeful that people will turn the machine off when they're done using it. If not, then LEDs might be the way to go. I'm not a fan of the strobe effect, though.

#6 5 years ago

Can you put the game on a timer, so at least you'll know it will be off every night?

#7 5 years ago

I could, but there's no way to stop someone from defeating the timer for some reason. It's certainly an option, though.

I did some checking, and LEDs don't seem to be that expensive. I don't know why some are 3 dollars a bulb and others are 80 cents. I may have to look into this further.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from UvulaBob:

I may have to look into this further.

Just look into that time period of game & LEDs. Games of certain(t) eras will react diff'rently with LEDs. Some don;t really ghost, so you can get the cheapest LEDs. So have more issues and you need the non ghosting more expensive ones....that's basically the difference.

Anyone here know how LEDs react in this game?

#9 5 years ago

Put up a simple sign asking to turn off the machine when people leave.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from UvulaBob:

I did some checking, and LEDs don't seem to be that expensive. I don't know why some are 3 dollars a bulb and others are 80 cents. I may have to look into this further.

Comet has some cheap ones, and if you don't want to go coloured, you can buy bulk and really cut that down. The CT bulk site that I always forget has some bulk deals as well.

The good thing with LEDs, even though they are more, is that they run at much less power, less heat, and you don't have to worry about changing them out again, which is a big concern for pre early 90s machines where you couldn't access them from under the PF for GI.

Plus, they just look f'ing rad in machines, especially when you play around with the colours.

#11 5 years ago

Because LEDs suck! They are blinding if used on an entire game.
I understand they have a lower current draw and last longer but they really make a game hard to play for me. I just don't like game done in LEDs completely. Yea they really are flashy and catch your eye but I have trouble keeping track of the ball with them being so bright.

Your game, do what you want.

As stated already use 44 where the game is a little dark and 47 everywhere else. 47 lamps are plenty bright to do what they are suppose to.

Chris Kruger

-1
#12 5 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

Because LEDs suck! They are blinding if used on an entire game.

To each their own. I think incandescent suck, but hey, that's just me.

I bet there were people thought cards sucked over bulbs for original computers, but look where we are now? The fact of the matter is that LEDs are the lighting of the future, and at some point incandescent will be gone, so enjoy it while you go it

#13 5 years ago

The CT bulk LED site is 100leds.com.

Comet will sell you a single element LED with a frosted lens in bulk for $.29 each. IMHO these are a suitable replacement for standard 44/47 since it reduces LED hot spots and dissipates the light well.

Some don't like the look of the frosted lens - you can substitute a clear lens if you want something closer to an incandescent.

Some people don't like LEDs at all. That debate can be found on the site with search.

LEDs have come down in price. Lots of vendors now with great choices and prices. But replacing all bulbs with LEDs still costs more vs keeping working incandescent bulbs.

If you stay incandescent you can still make the game pop by pulling all the bulbs, cleaning them (dishwasher or tumbler) tossing any that test bad or have blackened lenses, cleaning the inserts while the bulbs are out and then reinstalling. You might be surprised how good the machine looks with clean incandescents.

viperrwk

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Comet will sell you a single element LED with a frosted lens in bulk for $.29 each.

Rectified, by the 100 is $.26 each...Thanks!!!

Art

-1
#15 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

To each their own. I think incandescent suck, but hey, that's just me.
I bet there were people thought cards sucked over bulbs for original computers, but look where we are now? The fact of the matter is that LEDs are the lighting of the future, and at some point incandescent will be gone, so enjoy it while you go it

I doubt that incandescent will be gone for the foreseeable future. I agreed with everything you said until you made that dumb comment.

To each his own but the funny thing about LEDs is that most (not all) who really like them have been playing pinball less than 10 years.

Enjoy YOUR games anyway you like. Glad we both like pinball.

Chris Kruger

#16 5 years ago

theres plenty single and double LED's with #44 #47 bases well under a dollar each, I'd totally go that way with it.
doubles being nice under darker colored plastics to help them pop, and casting more light off to the sides too when they have a retro looking bulb-dome on them. hadnt found the #44 #47 LED bulbs I like for replacing #455 blinking bulbs yet, as far as I know they dont list how fast or slow they blink, or 'on vs off' time percentage or ratio.
bright white, warm white, colored, color changing blinking, you can do a lot of things to older machines pretty easy, tasteful or tacky depending on personal opinion more than anything. sometimes color changing LED's mixed in behind backglass or dropped into pop bumpers looks great, and sometimes not! it isnt going to cost a fortune to get a bunch of different LED's to experiment like that with, and once appearance is settled you wont be replacing burned out incandescents on a semi regular basis. if you arrive at custom lighting colors that DO look better they're going to pay for themselves pretty quickly in electricity and labor time saved for changing burnt bulbs anyway. opening everything up to change some bulbs can be a time consuming hassle, some are a real pain to get to.

personally I think its a lot nicer to only have to open up a machine to do some cleaning and waxing, not having to remove plastics etc to change an incandescent thats burned out. backglass with light colored title lettering can sometimes look pretty cool-different backlit with a fast-slow-fade-blink color changing LED, might be worth trying.

#17 5 years ago

If you do go with LEDs, you can eliminate some problems with just using them in sockets that are always on. Also, many LEDs can be blueish in color. You should look for the warm whites.

-1
#18 5 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

I agreed with everything you said until you made that dumb comment.

nice, last comment I read of yours, bye.

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