YCV - Bally Playboy - "Au Naturel"

(Topic ID: 222365)

YCV - Bally Playboy - "Au Naturel"


By Arcane

4 months ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Arcane
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There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 months ago

It will be a miracle if this thread survives the local censorship, but let's give it a try.

Although it is perfectly acceptable in the American culture to show and display war maimed and killed human beings as well as the most extreme violence, ugliness and monsters in movies and Newscasts, rendition of the naked female body remains the absolute taboo in the popular culture. The early British Puritan pioneers did such a good job in their time and the result on the American psyche, went way beyond their wildest dreams. How can you claim to be Independent when a large portion of your daily behavior and thoughts are still greatly influenced by these narrow-minded English puritans, so eager to define the conduct of the new world human beings?

Puritan-for-web (resized).jpg

That statue by Augustus Saint-Gaudens (Irish sculptor emigrated to America) symbolizes the rigidity and sternness of the mid-Nineteenth Century American upper class, with its stick and Bible in hands. Anyway, enough talking about a very sad period of the so called "American Renaissance".

Please exit this thread if:

- You are younger than 18 years old.
- You are afraid of naked women.
- You cannot stand the beauty of the human body.

About 15 years ago, I acquired a Bally Playboy playfield, fully populated. I could not get the whole machine because of marital misunderstandings and refusal (WAF). So, I had to contend with just the playfield and future hopes that one day I would be in a position to own the entire machine. Well, that has not yet happened, but we are getting closer.

The Playfield was shipped from Texas to NC, and suffered a brutal shock near the grotto ejection mechanism, damaging slightly the wood, during the transit. In retrospect, it is a miracle that nothing worse happened, in light of the poor packaging and the difficulty to ship something as heavy and bulky as a playfield, in a cardboard box.

PB-01 (resized).jpg

As you can see, there was a lot of work to be done on that playfield:

- The plastics were warped and broken. Fortunately, I managed to find on Da-Bay the missing triangle and CPR came up a few years later with a nice Plastic reproduction set that I quickly purchased.

- The center area was completely destroyed. Obviously, the wood was gouged in places and all the markings were long gone. All this due to the silly mentality and greediness of the Pinball operators of the mid 70's and early 80's: "Penny Wise, Dollar Foolish". Yes, why replace the small piece of rubber located at the end of the shooting rod, when you can save 25 cents not doing so? When the shooting rod (with no rubber) hits the ball, it leaves some marks and scuffings on the surface of the ball, turning this essential component of the game, into an instrument of destruction. The damages to the playfield could have been avoided by simply replacing the rubber tip (and the ball) for good measure.

- The grotto ejection mechanism (not visible on the picture) had bent and broken the wood during the transit.

- Multiple parts of the playfield were damaged by the abrasive ball, such as the face of that poor top-right Bunny. Hugh, in his Penthouse building behind the tall windows protected by curtains, was invisible, prematurely erased from endless delights between the arms and legs of some of the most beautiful women of that era.

To put it simply, there was a lot of work to do. Please keep in mind that at that time there was no CPR playfield reproduction, no Decals and no overlays for that machine. I was pretty much on my own.... to do something perhaps, different....

Yves

#2 4 months ago

Just get a Stern Playboy with the nude photo stickers.

#3 4 months ago

So, after many hours of tedious labor this is what I was left with. The damaged wood had been glued back with Epoxy two components glue and a big vise. The defect is almost invisible from the surface of the playfield, thankfully.

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As can be seen, the amount of dirt is insane and a lot of elbow grease will be required to bring it to a more decent condition. With such level of crass, I had no other recourse than the Magic Eraser and the 70% alcohol liquid. Using that combination meant that the playfield would have to be cleared one day, as all protection was gone. All the repairs would have to be cleared as well, so there was no reason to not use the ME+Alcohol combination. And so it was.

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Yves

#4 4 months ago

In all seriousness Yves, I really applaud your efforts. This is a grass roots restore on a playfield that needs serious attention. There is something magnetic that draws people to restore this title. Keep on it, we'll be watching.

#5 4 months ago

Following as well...

#6 4 months ago

Let's keep in mind that this restoration was done about 15 years ago. I am simply resurrecting old pictures and moving on with the project.

The playfield has been sitting for 14 years in a storage and I decided to clear coat it recently as I am getting more familiar with Spray Max 2K. At that time, everything had to be done by hand as nothing existed to repair such playfield. In addition, the special Copyrights with Playboy (and later on Mr. Bally) made it a sensitive title for parts providers.

We will see what happens.

Yves

#7 4 months ago

Now that the playfield was thoroughly scrubbed, I took my palette of acrylic colors (Liquitex) and started the painstakingly but rewarding process of repainting all the missing sections. Actually, the entire playfield was re-painted to harmonize the reddish (Liquitex Hibiscus is a perfect match) and blue colors. The result was not too bad:

Before:
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After:
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I do not recall the amount of hours spent on that playfield, but it was a labor of Love.

- I filed up the missing wood with some acrylic compound (Liquitex).
- I used dry transfers for the inscriptions below the Playboy bunny.
- I created a mask for the bunny which was entirely repainted.
- Dark lines were traced with artists archival inks and a metal ruler.
- Circles around the inserts were traced with a plastic circles tracer (Office Depot)
- Every little detail was touched up, patiently and carefully.
- The face of the top-right bunny, near the pop-bumpers was repainted.
- Hugh behind his curtains, holding a naked woman in his arms, was also repainted.

And yes Wayout440, there is definitely an attraction for male enthusiasts, to restore that specific title.

Yves

#8 4 months ago

Nice brush work man, I have a similarly worn pf and was thinking of making it a full nude.

#9 4 months ago

At this point of restoration, I thought to myself: what is the next direction I should take with this playfield?

- I do not have the cabinet and probably will not have one for a very long time.
- That playfield will never be as nice and perfect than a BALLY NOS playfield or any upcoming CPR reproduction.
- That piece has very little value on the used market as you could still find (in the early 2000's) decent Playboy playfields for reasonable amounts.

I pondered for a while this question and told myself that I had to come up with something radically different. Something more interesting, stimulating, erotic, something that would entice my pinball guests to play that machine if one day I can find a decent cabinet. And even if that playfield was to stay hung to the wall, let's make it a unique piece.

And that is what I did, fourteen years ago.

Yves

10
#10 4 months ago

Before going any further, I needed to do some historic research.

That is the beauty of pinball restoration. It combines:

- Moving capabilities and muscular development.
- Cleaning skills that can be re-used in your own home later on.
- Organisational skills to store all the parts in labeled bags.
- Artistic skills to repaint and restore playfields, cabinets and a myriad of small parts.
- Electrical and electronic skills to rework the harness and the various boards.
- Mechanical skills to put it all back together, and make sure it works fine in a reliable way.
- Collector flair to find the right machine and preserve it for you and the posterity, later.
- Historical curiosity to explore the trends and uses of the particular era during which a machine was designed.

It is with that last point, that I decided to do some in depth research about the two playmates, pictured on the playfield:

- Patty McGuire, the brunette who would later marry a rich tennis man, thanks to her centerfold appearance in the November 1976 Playboy issue.
- Sondra Theodore, the blond angel who appeared in July 1977 of the same magazine.

I needed to find some documents from that era, depicting in great details these two ladies. Of course, the Playboy archives were a perfect place to start my quest.

https://www.playboyplus.com/gallery/playmates-1977-7-sondra-theodore-0

https://thethoughtexperiment.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/centerfold-pm197611a1-01-lrg.jpg

(let's hope the censors will not choke on that post and have some cardio-vascular problems....) - Yes, the pictures were taken away so I added the links.

If I wanted to depict these two ladies in the best possible way, more than a few pictures were necessary. The first thing that jumps to the eyes of any normally constituted male, is the lush bush visible in the mid-section of these two ladies. That was the trend in those days and provides a refreshing contrast with the modern times of bare lands. The second point is the more natural shape of the breasts, although I cannot say for sure for Patty.

After long and detailed studies, I came up with this implementation, basically undressing the two ladies to reveal their true beauty and glory as Hugh enjoyed them first, since they were both centerfolds [to become a centerfold, you have to go to bed with Hugh].

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That would definitely make the playfield more interesting for male players and hopefully bring back more money for the operator, as the ball drained untouched by a drooling player.

Yves

#11 4 months ago

A few more pictures for the enthusiasts, revealing the details of the restoration:
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I have tried to depict the girls as they truly are, from the "historical" pictures. Matching the color of the skins was not an easy task and trying to embrace the style of Paul Farris is not easy, as he uses extremely fine and precise lines. Overall, I am not too unhappy and the drawing looks very genuine.

Yves

#12 4 months ago

I have started clear coating this playfield, encouraged by the relative success I had with the restoration of my Mata Hari playfield (see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ycv-bally-mata-hari-the-eye-of-the-day) and wanted to share some of the techniques I am using.

Most of the knowledge is derived from the excellent Playfield restoration thread by VID19000 and by the Spray Max 2K Clear Coat in a Can thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club

Those two threads are essential to a successful outcome.

This is my first attempts at using Spray Max 2K clear coat in a can and I have to say that I am very impressed by the quality of the product, its results and the ease with which an amateur can succeed.
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This stuff is dangerous and you must be well protected to spray it (see above threads for details).

The other clear coat I use is the following:
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It cost about $40 a quart (therefore a lot less expensive than SM2K) and is used to fill up inserts and low spots that you will inevitably find on old and beat-up playfields. You will also need eye droppers and I suggest you buy them in large quantity as you will need 2 or three for each application. Never use the same dropper when picking up the clear and the hardener. Otherwise, you will learn your lesson.

I did not take a picture, but the Playboy playfield was processed in the following way:

- Thorough Naphta cleaning with a clean rag.
- Tack cloth to remove any left over dust or micro-debris.
- Very light dusting of SM2K over the dry transfers and the overall playfield, to prevent an excess of temperature and the wrinkling of the decals or transfers.
- A few minutes later, a slightly thicker coat, but still very light. It does not shine, but we do not care at this stage. We just want to seal the artwork, without damaging it.
- A third coat a few minutes later, much thicker.
- Perhaps another coat with a nice thickness.

At this point, the can of SM2K is pretty much finished.
I let the playfield dry for at least a day. It becomes very shiny, smooth but we are far from being finished yet.

You will need the following (Home Depot) and sand paper of 400, 800, 1200 and 1500 grits.

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After that, I sand (wet sanding) with 400 grit. I use a block and a wet sponge to clean immediately the area I sanded and to keep the area wet. It also allows me to quickly clean up the sanding block without running to the sink every other minute.

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In the above picture, the top of the playfield has been 400 wet sanded, whereas the bottom part is still shiny from the spraying of SM2K. The bottom part will require a lot of careful sanding as it has been hand painted and therefore is not very flat. In addition, there were very deep gouges near the slingshots, due to the mylar films getting into the wood. It will take a few SM2K passes to get it completely flat and smooth.

Wet sanding is imperative, otherwise the clear will amalgamate under your pad, causing total inefficiency and the risk of creating much larger scratches than what you want. The sponge used for cleaning, minimizes the sludge or completely remove it. It is very easy.

After sanding at 400, you will see where are the low spots: they will shine!

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You will need to take a piece of sand paper with your finger and slightly scratch the shiny spots, to give them some teeth. Then, with your eye dropper (mixed 4 to 1) you will carefully and patiently fill up all the shiny areas. Usually, 4 droppers of clear + 1 dropper of hardener is enough to fill up most inserts on a classic Playfield. Otherwise, just double the quantities.

When the inserts have dried (one day or more), repeat the 400 wet sanding, until the entire surface is flat. Sanding wet at 400, will turn the cleared surface into something very sensual: touching it is like touching the skin of a sultry woman, it feels like velvet. It is incredibly smooth without the cold and hard feeling of glassy surface. Difficult to explain, but you will know when you achieve it.

When your whole playfield is like velvet/skin, and completely flat....then you can go for the final coats of SM2K (another can). Most likely you will spend the entire can on these final coats. Refrain to completely empty the can, as it sometimes spurts drops of clear not vaporized, towards the end.

That will be for another post.

Preparation is essential: Naphta cleaning, Insert filling once, twice....as many times as is needed with sanding in between. 400 Wet sanding, Naphta again and keeping your fingers away from the surface helps tremendously, too. Any defects, lack of sanding, protuberance, low spots will automatically telegraph (to paraphrase VID1900) to the surface of your final coat. The SM2K will not flow in the low spots and will not fill them, automatically. It does not react like water or oil.

I hope my personal experience can be of value to some of you, who are still hesitant to jump to SM2K. What I like the most, is being able to take my time and not skip any preparation steps, as you would if you give your playfield to an automotive painter.

Yves

#13 4 months ago

Filling up the inserts, one more time. The clear always shrinks, when drying:

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Patience...patience. It will pay off later on.

Yves

#14 4 months ago
Quoted from Arcane:

I have tried to depict the girls as they truly are, from the "historical" pictures. Matching the color of the skins was not an easy task and trying to embrace the style of Paul Farris is not easy, as he uses extremely fine and precise lines. Overall, I am not too unhappy and the drawing looks very genuine.

Holy smokes, you sir are a bushman!

#15 4 months ago

I did not realize Sondra groomed/trimmed herself in a heart shape. Well done.....

#16 4 months ago

Nice work!

#17 4 months ago

I approve! Good job.

#18 4 months ago

I love threads like these literally made my dream come true and carpet matched the drapes! lol

#19 4 months ago

Inserts have been filled and the entire playfield has been wet sanded with 400 grit. It now has this nice and velvety feeling at the tip of your fingers.
I almost prefer the feeling of that velvet to the glass like finish, but I know most purists would disagree.

Compare with previous pictures:
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It is now ready for a couple more of heavy coats, especially around the bunny logo.

Yves

#20 4 months ago

I hate to arm chair clear coat, but I'd never mix the to different types of clear coat urethane and acrylic the only reason you're not having a weird reaction is because they both use the same hardener you should try to recover some out of the SM2K can, I don't like dropping in clear to insert drainage or high/low spots. I'd rather just spray a heaver coat next round spraying into those pesky spots although you did a good job block sanding them in and lastly I don't wet sand with anything lower than 1,500 grit.

I can tell you right now just from looking at your block sanding you need to spray heavier coats, I can empty 3 cans (80%) in 1 session you can't get a more bonded coat than that. Its not as runny as a traditional urethane, you can high build it with out fear of it all running off the pf. And if your pf is level it will self level and fill into any of those low spots when sprayed liberally.

Your base coats down, inserts are sealed and bonded now go nuts and spray the hell out of that thing at least 2 cans if you can, I'm excited to see the gals oiled up! lol

#21 4 months ago
Quoted from gmkalos:

I hate to arm chair clear coat, but I'd never mix the to different types of clear coat urethane and acrylic the only reason you're not having a weird reaction is because they both use the same hardener you should try to recover some out of the SM2K can, I don't like dropping in clear to insert drainage/shrinkage I'd rather just spray a heaver coat next round spraying into those pesky spots although you did a good job block sanding them in and lastly I don't wet sand with anything lower than 1,500 grit.

To each its own. I don't like to spray this insane chemical if I can find an alternative solution. It seems to be doing very well so far.
Regarding the sanding, I love it slightly wet...not too much as it gets slippery....just the right amount. 400/800 is the minimum to get these inserts leveled.

Quoted from gmkalos:

I can tell you right now just from looking at your block sanding you need to spray heavier coats, I can empty 3 cans (80%) in 1 session you can't get a more bonded coat than that. This stuff is 2K that means twice the coverage because its not as runny as a traditional urethane, that also means you can high build it with out fear of it all running off the pf. And if your pf is level it will self level and fill into any of those low spots when sprayed liberally.

Yes, that was just one can. By the time I am done, it will be a total of 3 cans. I intend to sand in between cans.....

Quoted from gmkalos:

Your base coats down, inserts are sealed and bonded now go nuts and spray the hell out of that thing at least 2 cans if you can, I'm excited to see the gals oiled up! lol

I am glad it gets you aroused. That was the purpose.

Yves

#22 4 months ago

i did a custom one of these like this for a customer. I went back and referenced the actual pictures of the girls they used for the playfield art. Yours look pretty good, but the girl on the left is overly skinny, to the point where she looks sickly.

#23 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i did a custom one of these like this for a customer. I went back and referenced the actual pictures of the girls they used for the playfield art. Yours look pretty good, but the girl on the left is overly skinny, to the point where she looks sickly.

I'd love to see the original pics, I have every Playboy scanned if someone can give me the issue dates I will post the pics?

#24 4 months ago

Sorry I was wrong about that 2K just means 2 part or 2 pak, meaning uses a separate hardener, but it is a high build clear coat and is noticeably thicker IMO. I says it somewhere in the tec specs or MSDS.

The only reason people are sanding between coats is because there using a watery urethane and need to do it in 8-10 coats to get that deep coverage and look (6-7 mils) without the clear coat running off the pf and having orange peel and runs all over the pf. Sanding between coats allows for shrinkage but SM2K doesn't noticeably shrink. If you think your adding strength to the pf by giving it bite your not, your weakening the coat and relying on the solvents to soften up the previous layer to bond the new coat. You're also cutting down on clarity, even the naked eye can see all 10 of those sanding sessions underneath a led bright light. This is a traditional way when painting cars to achieve a deep clearcoat because its a must, even using a temp controlled spray booth (which dries the paint faster) spraying out a fender even when using a rack and trying to make it as horizontal as possible you get runs after the 2nd-3rd coats because of the sweeping curves. That method dosen't apply when spraying something flat, I could prob spray out 5-6 coats of 2k urethane before it started to run on me in my booth. I've sprayed out a few cars in my day and worked 3 stalls down from the spray booth and our most revered bodyman at our Lincoln/Mercury shop. Anytime it was slow I'd hang around him and check out the tips and tricks, and thanks to Ron this is why I can spray like a pro.

I believe what you're seeing like on those black bunny inserts above the keys is just the natural contours of the pf, you can see something similar to that which is insert drainage. When you're spraying a thin uniform coat on the pf it's like when it snows and you see snow on a speed bump or snow in a pothole that's not SM2K shrinking its just the high and low spots jumping out at you. All you have to do is spray into them. The most important thing in painting is to watch your coat, spray into the low spots and have good light get right down there and see exactly whats going on. Especially on that 1st base coat, know your product and how it reacts. Always end your session with a good uniform coat. I have a sample that's over a year old, it's been baking and freezing in my shed outside and has not one wrinkle or sign of shrinkage and still as flexible as the day it dried, and that's why I love this stuff.

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#25 4 months ago

i forgot but it's about 2 years before the date on the game. I used to know the girls names when I was doing the research, but don't remember anymore.

#26 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i did a custom one of these like this for a customer. I went back and referenced the actual pictures of the girls they used for the playfield art. Yours look pretty good, but the girl on the left is overly skinny, to the point where she looks sickly.

Yes, it is the position. She is twisted to match the original drawing by Paul Farris. On this link, which inspired me, you can see that Patty is not very meaty:
https://thethoughtexperiment.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/centerfold-pm197611a1-01-lrg.jpg

Yves

#27 4 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i forgot but it's about 2 years before the date on the game. I used to know the girls names when I was doing the research, but don't remember anymore.

If you had read the thread since the beginning, all the information is given: month, year.

Yves

#28 4 months ago
Quoted from Arcane:

I love it slightly wet...not too much as it gets slippery....just the right amount.

Agreed!

#29 4 months ago

So, we are "wetting" these girls with a full can of SM2K:

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Yes, the sky was cloudy, as always in NC, during the summer time.
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There will be more sanding and at least another can of SM2K. This is what it will take to get that Playboy logo in the center, flat and smooth.

Yves

#30 4 months ago

Back in the days when "bush" meant something else besides two future presidents.

#31 4 months ago

This SM2K is incredible. As it dries, it shrinks a little bit but levels quite well. The troublesome area is almost completely flat and smooth.

I am becoming a "believer"....

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Yves

#32 4 months ago

Who else zooms In on tits and boobs areas every time he posts pics.....

...Crickets..... really ;(

#33 4 months ago

Your version is the way that machine *should* have come from the factory. Two thumbs up for your excellent restoration work.

#34 4 months ago

Really well done indeed.

1 week later
#35 3 months ago

Thank you for all the encouragements.

This project is on hold, as I am finishing the Mata Hari machine. It will resume afterwards.

Yves

1 month later
#36 54 days ago

After almost two months of inactivity (the clearcoat had plenty of time to dry), it is time to get back to this project.

I spent the evening yesterday, sanding the entire playfield with 400 grit and water. I reached that velvety feeling which is so nice to the tip of your fingers.
A good and thorough cleanup with Naphta and the playfield was ripe for still another layer of clear. There are still some dimples, mostly around the inserts and in some spots of the central and lower section, that I completely rebuilt. Filling them one at a time would have been a hell of a job and I decided to go with an overall heavy pass. In fact, an entire can of Spray Max 2K went on top; raising the total amount of clear to 2.5 cans, so far on that Playboy playfield.
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The milky appearance due to the heavy coat, will become completely clear as it dries. The temperature is slightly below 70 degrees outside and I have moved the playfield inside for the final curing.

I will go again with a full sanding at 400 wet and will assess at this point if another coat is needed or not. I am trying to limit the thickness of the clear for multiple reasons.

Yves

1 week later
#37 47 days ago

So, the clear has had a few days to cure (temperature dropped) and it is now time to sand it for a very flat finish. I use a used 400 Grit pad, with enough water to lubricate it.
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Most depletions are now filled and the playfield is very flat to the touch.
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You can see the part that has been sanded versus the shooter lane which was untouched.
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The playfield will then be sanded (always wet) with a new 800 pad, then 1500 and finally 2000. After that, I will use my orbital sander with Meguiars 105 and then 205 for a mirror like finish.

Yves

#38 46 days ago

Looking awesome..

#39 46 days ago

Think I'd still prefer the Nude Elvira.

#40 46 days ago
Quoted from Arcane:

I reached that velvety feeling which is so nice to the tip of your fingers.

I can imagine which part of the playfield you were rubbing at the time.

#41 45 days ago

Playfield finishing is proceeding..... Additional Clear was poured in two or three locations (mostly inserts), cured and sanded using 400 wet grit.

Then a final 800 wet grit sanding took place:
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The playfield is perfectly flat, especially around the Bunny inserts which are quite big:
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Center is now very flat and smooth. It has come a long way from what it used to be:
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What beautiful faces... and so smooth:
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It is now time to pull out the orbital sander and turn that "velvet" of playfield, into a mirror.

Yves

#42 45 days ago

I was wondering where youve been hiding! Good to see you making progress on this

#43 45 days ago

So far, we have sanded with 800 Grit, always wet. There are some fine scratches left that will be visible once the playfield is polished.
So a pass with 1500 wet is done, giving the playfield a uniform, sleek but mate appearance:
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Below is a detail, right after the 1500 Wet sanding:
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Then, it is time to pull out the orbital sander and the Meguiars polishing compounds:
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Speed is set to 5... no need to go faster.
First Pass of Orbital Sander with Meguiars 105:
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Cleaning with Naphta, then second pass of 105:
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First Pass of Meguiars 205:
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Cleaning with Naphta and a good coat of wax:
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It will dry all night.

To recap:
1) 400 Sanding Wet in both directions (up/down and left/right)
2) 800 wet sanding in both directions.
3) 1500 wet sanding in both directions.
4) Polishing compound 105
5) Polishing compound 205
6) Thorough Naphta cleaning
7) Wax
8) Polish
9) Wax again...
10) Final polish. Ready for re-assembly.

I have tried to take some pictures showing the different stages:
Polishing compound 105 (bottom section) and 1500 Wet sanding (top section). You can tell where the light reflection stops:
DSC03383 (resized).JPG
Polishing with 105 completed:
DSC03384 (resized).JPG
Polishing with 205:
DSC03385 (resized).JPG

Yves

#44 45 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I was wondering where youve been hiding! Good to see you making progress on this

Thank you Matt. After some European travels and being busy at work, I am getting back to this project.
How are you enjoying your Mata Hari? Mine is vicious and it is not easy to win games at 300K. The top saucer sends you directly into the drain, and a good slap followed by a quick recovery is necessary to rescue the ball. It gets hard on the hands after a while. Challenging game, to say the least.

Yves

#45 45 days ago

I adjusted the fins in the saucer to send the ball to the left flipper. Still loving her. Play it every day!

#46 45 days ago

Nice, although for me, as a european and of Swedish ancestry, nude girls are like wednesday, but very good work getting the girls to looks authentic though

Also good coating guide aswell, i will take a few pointers from it in my future playfield coating endeavours.

#47 43 days ago

Pictures of the final results after Polishing 205 and Naphta cleaning:
DSC03386 (resized).JPG
DSC03387 (resized).JPG
DSC03388 (resized).JPG

Wax time.....

Yves

#48 43 days ago

Looking damn good Yves!!!

#49 40 days ago

I started installing the mess of the wiring harness:

DSC03389 (resized).JPG
Taking my time and checking every contact and light one at a time. It is so much easier to do it at this stage than later....
DSC03390 (resized).JPG

Yves

1 week later
#50 31 days ago

Even though posts have been rarer, the playfield is moving along and some progress are being done:
DSC03391 (resized).JPG

Slingshots are completely ready:
DSC03392 (resized).JPG

Flipper assemblies will be connectorized for an easier maintenance. Power wires are passing under the flipper plates:
DSC03393 (resized).JPG

The Bunny Keys lanes:
DSC03394 (resized).JPG

Yves

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