(Topic ID: 117438)

Xpin LED DMDs high or low voltage?

By TheRingMaster

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Hi!

Im curious to get a new display for my ID4. I have a local dealer who carries the xpin LED DMDs. However they come in two versions, low voltage and high voltage.

Are there any reasons to choose one over the other? Would a high voltage put more stress on the boards and DMD and the low voltage not as much. Got an xpin alphanumeric set for my HS and I am very happy with it, there I just bypassed the High voltage section all together and it feels good to do.

Any other things to consider? Like a high voltage version looking better/more true to the original than the low voltage one..

/ Andy

#2 9 years ago

I asked the dealer selling the displays from xpin and they told me that older pins, that used a plasma dmd from the factory, will need the high voltage LED version (4096HV). Pins like newer sterns (after 2006) that used LED DMDs will need the low voltage display (4096LV). Furthermore the High voltage display will need the +65V circuit to operate in the game. Thought i should post this in case someone else is wondering.

#3 9 years ago

Unfortunately, most of the DMD pins, regardless of the mfg, will require the HV version of my XP-DMD4096 DMD displays. A good rule of thumb is if the game has an original High Voltage plasma display, you will need my HV DMD display. Having said that, only the later Stern games that were released with LED displays would use my LV version.

Here is the reason:

I have yet to find any games from the era of the plasma DMDs that have a strong enough 5V system to support the needed 5-10Watts for an LED DMD. WPC is the worst culprit. It has been well documented over the years how the 5V power supply in the WPC games is at it's limits already and most of the original power driver boards have had multiple rebuilds on them. The designs of the other mfgs are about the same.

I opted, in order to be plug'n'play, that I would utilize the +65V supply and buck it down to +5V as efficiently as possible. Maintaining the high efficiency of the conversion, I can get the 5V power needed without taxing the 5V system.

Another rule of thumb is that Red, Orange, Amber, and Green require less power to operate than Blue and White in my DMD's. There is nothing I can do about this because it is all about chemistry and what it takes to get those colors.

XPin

#4 9 years ago

Hi XPinPinball!

Thanks a lot for chiming in! Always good to hear an explanation from the actual source =)

Will get a new display for my game and I am looking forward to it. Cant decide if I should get an orange version or a red one though...

By the way, whats the difference between the amber and the orange actually? Is the amber one more redish than the orange, which is more "yellowish"?

#5 9 years ago

orange is Orange, and the Amber is like the Original Plasma Color

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from TheRingMaster:

Is the amber one more redish than the orange, which is more "yellowish"?

You hit it on the head!

#7 9 years ago

Alright, we'll see what I can get my hands on. The orange one is out of stock it seems.

Thanks for the help figuring things out!

#8 9 years ago

Most seem to go for it because of price. Amber specific blocks are slightly more expensive.

#9 9 years ago

Ok.. but which is most true to the original? Is it amber like Stu said or?

#10 9 years ago

You don't believe me?

Quoted from TheRingMaster:

Is it amber like Stu said or?

#11 9 years ago

Thanks for posting this, I had wondered the same thing. I have a Tron LE and it has HV Plasma, was going to get a LV LED display glad I didn't.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from TheRingMaster:

Ok.. but which is most true to the original? Is it amber like Stu said or?

When you look at the data sheet for the Vishay HV Plasma display, the optical wavelength for the color is 632 nano meters. The amber blocks I purchase are spec'd at 630 nm. Keep in mind that this would be considered NEW plasma display.

Using a BTS256 meter I did conduct some measurements on an older Vishay, the mfg date showed 1997. It measured at ~620nm which is more towards the Orange at 610nm. My orange LED blocks are spec'd at 612nm.

The point to be made is that it comes down to being what you like. Orange is more yellow where Amber is more red. My selection of the Amber block is based on the Vishay datasheet, but overtime the color will drift apparently going more towards an orange. This is the reason that I offer both.

For reference, the Babcock datasheets list their color as 628nm.

#13 9 years ago

Stu, I do believe you but i wanted to hear some more facts about it, just like XPinPinball posted right after. No harm intended.

And XPinPinball, thanks for the deep explanation! Think ill go for the amber one. It would, according to the numbers, match a new old school display. And, the orange would match a worn old school display. Interesting thing and hard to decide.

#14 9 years ago

It is a tough call. With the current age of games out there, you have a large variation of what "PLASMA ORANGE" looks like. I had to start somewhere and that was the original data sheets.

I have had customers buy the Orange and when placed next to games with newer plasmas, they change to Amber, and then some collections with older plasmas they went for orange because it looked more like the plasmas they had.

Personally, I am not that picky because I would probably look at the bling of putting in a color like Red, Green, or Blue, with a real possibility of White with gels because I want the pizazz!

#15 9 years ago

Hehe yeah, I think i will get happy whatever I buy. When restoring games I always pay attention to every single detail but then when I play a game I really dont notice much of it at all. Too focused on the ball to care about if a sling rubber is white or black or whatever. Always nice to have a game in great condition though so you can admire it when its in attract mode while youre having a beer

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