Making progress on the project Xenon. The rectifier is registering correct volts but no volts register on the SDB. I pulled a known working SBD from a Medusa and plugged it in and it has the same problem - no volts registered at any of the test points. Put the SBD back in the Medusa and works fine. If volts are coming off the rectifier correctly is it the plugs?

I have 14vdc at TP3 and volts at fuse F3 but no volts at the J3-10 connector.

I have 14 volts at TP3 and at pin J3 pin 10 on the rectifier board. It connects to A3J3 pin 12 - an orange wire. I am showing no volts on the plug at A3J3 12.

That did the trick. Thank you Quench!

My volume pots are bad on the sound boards. If I jiggle them I can get intermittent sound. I have two 1k Ohm pots but they are the wrong physical size - the through holes don't line up and bigger than the small thumb turn pots. Do you think I can modify the connection with trace wires and get by with it until I need to make another purchase? I hate to spend more on shipping than the cost of two pots.

Have not tried cleaning them. I will do that first. If not, I think i can easily anchor the larger pots to the backbox and run trace wires as a temporary fix.

One cleaned fine the other not so much. I will order a volume pot with my next big order.

ALMOST DISASTER. So I am working on the pin and the backbox falls off. I had it bolted in place. It actually separated above that. All of the nails and braids had rusted through but there was no way of seeing it. Nothing broke thank goodness but my hand got buggered up pretty good. Any thoughts on how best to reattach? There really insn't much to attach to. The plywood is thin and will likely split. I guess I can add some wood supports and attach to those. The wooden wedges are all coming loose.

Do not know about the coin door master volume. I was int the process of reconnecting the coin door with the backbox fell.

I have repaired the backbox - wood glue with clamps and inside L-brackets. I filled the chipped and splintered wood with wood filler and sanded down smooth this morning. I intend to spray paint the sanded areas later today and remount the backbox. Luckily the chips and splinters were only on the black painted areas. The cabinet is in really good shape so full repaint with stencil would be good at some point. Put on blue legs that match the blue on the cabinet. Looks sharp.

Two of the seven digit displays are missing segments. I have rebuilt display boards before but wanted to double check if rebuilding the board is an option or if the glass itself is going bad.

The missing display segments are not consistent across the display numbers in all cases. For example, in diagnostic test the first two digits of a display might be missing segments and then it cycles to another number and the missing segment is across all numbers. I read somewhere that if the missing segments are not consistent across the entire display it is likely an issue with plasma glass in which case I will buy a couple of displays.

Another question, if I can't find original bally displays can I mix and match with LEDs for the two bad displays? Wolfpack Technologies has a build it yourself display kit for $35 that look decent.

Turning the voltage all the way up eliminates some of the missing segments but not all of them. I am missing f, e, and g for the most part.

I measured 209 volts on the display board at TP2. In some cases it is all digits missing the same segments in other cases only some of digits are missing segments. I also re-soldered the connection pin and the glass display pins. I cleaned the boards as well.

Will do. I have a few extra transistors from the Paragon restore. Is there an easy way to tell which segment goes to which transistor? (disregard this question I just didn't look at the schematics close enough). Are these the MPS-A42 transistors?

The sound pot on the door does not work. I think it is because someone rewired the sound and dropped in an oversized car speaker. There are actually two sound outlets in the cabinet for what appears to be two 4 ohm speakers instead of one large 8 ohm.

Merry Christmas

I replaced the segment driver for "g" which is Q19. It did not fix the problem so I am guessing the displays themselves are going bad.

I have two good 7 digit displays and the six digit is also good. These are hard to find. would you recommend selling these three good displays to fund a full set of matching LEDs? Wolffpac Technology sells a display kit for $135 that looks good. You have to assemble it but that isn't a problem.

Thanks.

One more quick question. I have been working on the lamp sockets and finally have all of them working during the diagnostic test. The three sockets on the left above the eject hole work during diagnostic but do not flash during attract mode or come on when a game starts. Is that by design? Seems strange that playfield section would be dark with no GI lights.

I am reassembling the playfield - this is going to be a nice pin. I cannot for the life of me remember where this part goes. I took lots of pictures but evidently not good enough.

Are the red plastic tubes for the lamps still available on the aftermarket?

Thanks

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