The metal shield is on all of them. I think it was security the coin box. Both my Xenons have it.
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I am redoing a Xenon cabinet at the moment. It took me many tries to get the cabinet smooth. They used some garbage wood at the factory, the right side of the cabinet and the left side of the head obviously came from the same piece. It looked like the blade chattered badly when the veneer was cut for the top layer of the plywood. I ground it down with 40 grit but had to skim coat most of the side with body filler to get it smooth. In the end I lost the serial number. On the head I was able to keep a little bit of it.
The lighting makes the colours look funny but in real life the pop.
Your question about ghosting and LEDs the basic Bally lighting board will definitely flicker and ghost. The auxiliary lighting board on the score panel insert does not have that problem.
Quoted from 85vett:Took 5 passes but I think I have the head good enough for paint. Got the first coat on. Quite a bit of orange peel right now but that's easy enough to get rid of. Sucks not having a paint booth
This was the side with the serial number scratched out. Was about a 1/4 inch deep and about the size of a 4 inch by 4 inch square Pretty happy with how the edges came out as well. Not perfect but I'm honestly not going for perfect. I wanted to keep some of the history of the wood there without it looking bad so I left some of the very minor blems and fixed the big dents and chunks that were missing.
Hope the boss approves.
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I had the exact same issues but I wet sanded with 400 and 600 grit. The final coat is really smooth.
Quoted from 85vett:Ugh..... looks like I get to start over. Same exact paint as the rest (new can) and I get blessed with a reaction.
The joys of painting.
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Did you spray that second coat within 48 hours of the first one? I did that, same thing but not so uniform over the whole surface. Just let it dry thoroughly and wet sand it flat again then put more paint on.
Quoted from 85vett:I'm using the paint that was recommended to me by the pinball stencil company. They advised it's best to use Rustoleum professional paint and gave the paint codes. I used automotive on my BOP restore.
I guess I did. Was about 36 hours after the second coat was applied. I'm so used to the rule of within 1 hour or after 24 hours I didn't notice this stuff does require 48 hours
The cabinet picture I posted above was done with Rustoleum paint spray cans. I used Semi-gloss black and gloss red and blue. The semi-gloss requires excellent surface prep or everything shows. You can always scale back to satin black to obscure minor flaws.
I had the first set of Xenon stencils from Jeff after he first offered them. I had exactly what you had happen, happen to me too. After it dries hard it shrinks down a bit in height. I wet sanded with 400 grit then 600. I topped it with more primer then sanded that, then did more black. I was really not looking forward to resanding down to bare wood again. If you wet sand then pay close attention to your coverage with the black you can get a really impressive finish. I use a trouble light in one hand slightly below the paint can so I can see the coverage as it goes on. I do my first coat then go sit outside the garage for ~10 minutes, then I do my second coat.
One note: The paint seems pretty tough after 24 hours, you can even wet sand it. Doing that removes the top cured skin, so leave the sanded job for 48 hours or you risk wrinkling it again. I learned the hard way. So start your sanding the next day, wait two days, then recoat.
When you get to the stencil stage, do not use a quick drying paint, it will pull off in strings and ruin the job. I used more Rustoleum rust paint that says 2-4 hours before you can touch it which makes a big difference (Rustoleums Tremclad brand in Canada). I do two coats a few minutes apart then start pulling the stencil while wet. Have a knife handy, you don't want to stretch the stencil too much as it snaps back and then lays into your fresh paint. I have a small container with Naptha in it and Q-Tips ready once the stencil is off. Get up really close and wipe off the little strings of paint that inevitably happen. You can do major improvements but only while the paint is wet.
After it all dries hard, you can use a bit of Novus two to clean off the smudges on the black paint left by the Naptha.
Not sure you were looking for all that advice but I finally finished up my cabinet last night with red on the head. For the cabinet sides, given how long it takes to pull that large stencil and the shortish working time for clean up, I only do one side at a time now.
Quoted from 85vett:My arms are tired....
Before pic of the back of the coin door. Overall not to bad but not good enough for what we are doing. Second pic is of the shoots and bracket that I finished last night. Not going crazy with things but cleaning things up and trying to polish them up. Not going for a mirror polish but want it looking nice and new.
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How did you polish those up? My Xenon coin door was horrendous, I think lots of liquid had poured down from above. I used evaporust and it looked great but not polished like yours.
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