(Topic ID: 136843)

Xenon Restoration


By 85vett

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 80 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by Breger1
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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There are 80 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

Time to start over..... Nothing like wasting 3 weeks worth of time and $100 in paint but I'm done trying to make this stuff work. I've now tried this 3 times with Rustoleum Paint. All 3 times I've had the same results of wrinkling in the finish. All 3 times I've sanded down, primer (let dry the recommended 48 hours) and painted. This last time I waited a week to paint it instead of the recommended 48 hours. This paint is CRAP!!!! Going back to my tried and true paint. I only tried this paint as it is what was recommend to use with the stencil kit.

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#52 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Time to start over..... Nothing like wasting 3 weeks worth of time and $100 in paint but I'm done trying to make this stuff work. I've now tried this 3 times with Rustoleum Paint. All 3 times I've had the same results of wrinkling in the finish. All 3 times I've sanded down, primer (let dry the recommended 48 hours) and painted. This last time I waited a week to paint it instead of the recommended 48 hours. This paint is CRAP!!!! Going back to my tried and true paint. I only tried this paint as it is what was recommend to use with the stencil kit.
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Ouch!
Sorry to hear that.

#53 3 years ago

2 pac primer and single stage auto acrylic every time. Use a premium quality thinner not cheap stuff. With that combo I get results like this...

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#54 3 years ago

Guess I'll stay away from Rustoleum paint now.

That looks amazing Sinbad.

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from Sinbad:

2 pac primer and single stage auto acrylic every time. Use a premium quality thinner not cheap stuff. With that combo I get results like this...
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I'll be the first to say it....wish you were closer.

#56 3 years ago

Amazing results Sinbad

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I've now tried this 3 times with Rustoleum Paint. All 3 times I've had the same results of wrinkling in the finish. All 3 times I've sanded down, primer (let dry the recommended 48 hours) and painted. This last time I waited a week to paint it instead of the recommended 48 hours. This paint is CRAP!!!!

Rattle can paint can take a month to fully cure, and it could be several months, if you laid it down thick.

3 weeks later
#58 3 years ago

Finally got the black to lay down right using a different paint. Let it cure a week and applied the blue. Will let this cure several days and will lay down the red.

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#59 3 years ago

Red has now been applied. New found respect for those that paint via stencils a lot. I thought it would be easier than what it actually is. I know now that I prefer decals while painting does look better. Should be able to start buttoning up the head now once this dries fully. Fingers crossed all goes well and I can start working on the cab next.

Here's a couple of pics. I'm pleased with the registration of the two colors. Was tough getting it right but a little patience went a long way there. I have a couple of small bleed spots that I'll take care of too. Overall I'm pretty happy with the outcome of my first stencil painting job.

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#60 3 years ago

New metal ground plates and braid installed as well as new instruction/warning labels made and installed. Just waiting for the hinges for the light panel and brackets for the boards to finish tumbling for the head to be completed.
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2 months later
#61 3 years ago

Been a while since I updated this. Still working on the cab right now. Weather hasn't been cooperating very much as this winter has been pretty rainy. I don't have a booth so I have to do all my work outside.

The lower cab had a lot of dings and dents in it so I've spent most of my time filling things. I got it painted and wasn't happy with the amount of grain still showing up (pic below) so I sanded the sides and front down again and added some more filler.

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Waiting for it to fully cure (pic below) and will prime and paint again. Most of the filler will sand away. I just like coating the whole side for this part and then sanding smooth. Reduces the chances of missing something and having to do it again.

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#62 3 years ago

use a high build primer to help with the grain and minor imperfections. its wood so you wont get it dead flat.
you can actually roll on 2pak primers instead of spraying them, i would seriously consider doing that!

#63 3 years ago

Sanding completed and the cab has been re-primed. Will let it dry and then will sand it smooth before putting down the black. Came out smooth like a baby's butt.

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#64 3 years ago

Now is time for some more fun. Now that the cab is getting close it's time to start the PF swap and restoration of the everything that goes on it.

Got the harness removed and all the coils laid out. Disassembly time so that I can start dropping parts in the tumbler.

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#65 3 years ago

Slings and pops are done (minus one light socket). A bit of a change between the before (above) and after (below). On to the next parts now. My tumbler is pretty small so I have to do things in batches.

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2 weeks later
#66 3 years ago

Cab is done now. Not perfect but I'm pretty happy with how it came out being my first stencil job. Much harder than I thought it would be.
couple of things I want to touch up but I'm going to wait until everything is done and the game is back on it's legs before doing that.

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#67 3 years ago

That pic makes it look like the blue is on the lower edge. Not sure why (maybe light reflection) but it's not like that in real life.

3 weeks later
#68 3 years ago

Met up with BTW75 on Sat. Got the finished cab back to his house (he's the owner of the game) and 17 hours later we finished the PF swap (new CPR PF) and got the game back together. Booted up perfectly so all the corrections we made seemed to have be the correct ones. We have one insert acting up that we'll address but it's just about done. Cleaning up the coin door now and refinishing the legs and it will be 100% done and ready for TPF. Forgot to get pics to share with everyone but should get some next time I'm over there with the coin door and legs.

#69 3 years ago

Can't wait to see it at TPF. Having done one of these myself, I'll be your worst critic.

#70 3 years ago

My arms are tired....

Before pic of the back of the coin door. Overall not to bad but not good enough for what we are doing. Second pic is of the shoots and bracket that I finished last night. Not going crazy with things but cleaning things up and trying to polish them up. Not going for a mirror polish but want it looking nice and new.

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#71 3 years ago

Are you going to sell this?

#72 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

My arms are tired....
Before pic of the back of the coin door. Overall not to bad but not good enough for what we are doing. Second pic is of the shoots and bracket that I finished last night. Not going crazy with things but cleaning things up and trying to polish them up. Not going for a mirror polish but want it looking nice and new.
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How did you polish those up? My Xenon coin door was horrendous, I think lots of liquid had poured down from above. I used evaporust and it looked great but not polished like yours.

#73 3 years ago
Quoted from spfxted:

Are you going to sell this?

Yes. Going to TPF and will be for sale. I'm sure BTW75 would ship it if a non local buyer was interested.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

How did you polish those up? My Xenon coin door was horrendous, I think lots of liquid had poured down from above. I used evaporust and it looked great but not polished like yours.

They actually split apart once removed. After that it was just elbow grease. Didn't go crazy and go mirrored polish so I stopped at 1000 grit sand paper and hit it with some polish

#74 3 years ago

Really looking forward to seeing this and meeting you 86vett at TPF....very nice...

#75 3 years ago

Guess I'll share my brain fart moment.

Just about finished putting the door back together. Now where is that lock bracket. Oh yeah its right there. Ah crap, it screws in from the back side which requires disassembly to get to the other side of the door skin

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#76 3 years ago

Brain fart fixed. Not perfect but I'm still happy with how it came out.

I guess it's the nature of a flash but in person you don't see the swirl marks on the front door.

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#77 3 years ago

Legs have been refinished now too. Added in a dashing of metallic metal flake to.

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#78 3 years ago

Xenon has officially made it safely to TPF. Come give it a whirl.

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#79 3 years ago

Xenon has sold already. New owner is keeping it on free play though

Will be in the escalara booth, go check them out and play a game.

2 years later
#80 11 months ago

I know this is an older post, but I was hoping someone could help me matching the red and blue for Xenon repaint? I am using Rustoleum and can't figure out the correct colors to get. I did Satin Canyon Black and wanted to stay with Satin, but if it is semi-gloss I could try that. Thanks for the help

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There are 80 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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