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(Topic ID: 247868)

Xenon no sound....help appreciated.


By Sonora70

1 year ago



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  • 55 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by EdHess
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#1 1 year ago

Trying to compete my Xenon project. Seems most everything is working except sound. Getting no sound at all, not even a hum. Nothing when I press the test button.

Ive checked voltages on both the sound boards and all seem correct except the AC voltages (TP 1 does run a little high at 15.3vdc). I should be getting .35VAC at TP6 but I'm getting a reading of .003v.

I replaced CR1, 2, and 3 on the vocal board because they looked fried.

I'm running an Altek mpu and I have the settings "18-3" in the setup.

The speakers are completely silent. The boards have been worked on in the past but I have no idea who worked on them.

I've researched several post with this problem but I'm not seeing any completed fixes. Thanks in advance.

#2 1 year ago

What kind of driver board do you have?I had an aftermarket board in mine and the voltages were too high.I had to get my original board rebuilt.That fixed my problem.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

The speakers are completely silent.

No pop from the speaker on powerup?
When you adjust the volume pots on the sound board, you getting any scratchy noise through the speaker?
With the machine off, measure the resistance between ground and the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. If you're not reading low ohms then it's a problem with the speakers or connection to them.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from whizz:

What kind of driver board do you have?I had an aftermarket board in mine and the voltages were too high.I had to get my original board rebuilt.That fixed my problem.

I'm using the original driver board.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

No pop from the speaker on powerup?
When you adjust the volume pots on the sound board, you getting any scratchy noise through the speaker?
With the machine off, measure the resistance between ground and the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. If you're not reading low ohms then it's a problem with the speakers or connection to them.

No noise at all, even when adjusting the pots. I will check resistance this after noon when I get home.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

No pop from the speaker on powerup?
When you adjust the volume pots on the sound board, you getting any scratchy noise through the speaker?
With the machine off, measure the resistance between ground and the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. If you're not reading low ohms then it's a problem with the speakers or connection to them.

Checked the resistance before I left this morning. Got a reading of 109.9 ohms. I assume that would be high? Could my speakers be bad?

#7 1 year ago

Speaker should be 4 or 8 ohms. That's a crazy high reading. Probably not working properly.

#8 1 year ago

Not sure if this helps but the heat sink is getting warm to touch on the vocalize board.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Got a reading of 109.9 ohms.

Schematic doesn't show it but if your Xenon has a volume control inside the door, 100 ohms resistance is about the right reading (since it's a 100 ohm volume pot). Have you tried sweeping this coin door volume control full swing to see if you get any sounds/crackling through the speakers?

The game has two 8 ohm speakers and from memory they're wired in parallel, or could it be in series? Can't remember. If they're in parallel you should measure approx 4 ohms across the two speaker wires coming from the harness that connect to the speakers, otherwise if they're wired in series you should measure 16 ohms across those two wires.

One of those two wires connecting to the speakers is ground (with the machine off confirm one of those wires measures zero ohms resistance to ground), the other wire comes from the volume control.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Schematic doesn't show it but if your Xenon has a volume control inside the door, 100 ohms resistance is about the right reading (since it's a 100 ohm volume pot). Have you tried sweeping this coin door volume control full swing to see if you get any sounds/crackling through the speakers?
The game has two 8 ohm speakers and from memory they're wired in parallel, or could it be in series? Can't remember. If they're in parallel you should measure approx 4 ohms across the two speaker wires coming from the harness that connect to the speakers, otherwise if they're wired in series you should measure 16 ohms across those two wires.
One of those two wires connecting to the speakers is ground (with the machine off confirm one of those wires measures zero ohms resistance to ground), the other wire comes from the volume control.

I have tried turning the pot on the coin door, and still not getting any sound at all. The speakers are connected together, I believe in series because the second speaker is pigtailed off the first. I will check the resistance on the ground when I get back home.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

The speakers are connected together, I believe in series because the second speaker is pigtailed off the first.

Can you post a picture of the speaker setup? And clear high res pictures of the sound/vocalizer boards?

Once you're sure the speaker setup is right, carefully check that the TDA2002 amplifier (U9 connected to the heatsink) on the sound board has 12V power at pin 5.

Also grab a screw driver and touch the + leg of capacitor C5 (which goes to the input of the amplifier) with the screw driver tip while holding the metal part of the screw driver. Do you get any speaker hum?

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you post a picture of the speaker setup? And clear high res pictures of the sound/vocalizer boards?
Once you're sure the speaker setup is right, carefully check that the TDA2002 amplifier (U9 connected to the heatsink) on the sound board has 12V power at pin 5.
Also grab a screw driver and touch the + leg of capacitor C5 (which goes to the input of the amplifier) with the screw driver tip while holding the metal part of the screw driver. Do you get any speaker hum?

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#13 1 year ago
20190723_093526 (resized).jpg
#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you post a picture of the speaker setup? And clear high res pictures of the sound/vocalizer boards?
Once you're sure the speaker setup is right, carefully check that the TDA2002 amplifier (U9 connected to the heatsink) on the sound board has 12V power at pin 5.
Also grab a screw driver and touch the + leg of capacitor C5 (which goes to the input of the amplifier) with the screw driver tip while holding the metal part of the screw driver. Do you get any speaker hum?

Checked the voltage at U9 pin 5 and got 15 volts. Touching the positive leg of the cap had no effect. No hum.

A bit of success maybe.....After messing around with the wires at the speakers I turned the game on and got sound. I actually cycled a game with sound. I then turned the game off and back on, no sound. I cant get the sound to come back after messing with speaker wires etc...

I also checked resistance of the volume knob on the door. It was all over the place. It would not hold a consistent reading. I compared this to a new trimmer pot I have and it stayed consistent and I could vary the ohms by adjusting the pot. Not so with the pot on the door.

#15 1 year ago

Those door volume pots often go flakey.

So it looks like the orange wire to the speaker is ground.
The white wire to the speaker comes from the coin door volume pot.
Measure the resistance from the white wire back to the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. As you adjust the volume control on the door the resistance reading should change from zero ohms when set to max volume to 100 ohms when set to minimum volume. If you're getting readings way beyond 100 ohms, it's likely the swiper arms inside the volume pot is going open circuit.

You can buy a replacement volume pot from Jameco:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found#post-4488849

Or you can fix yours. It's held together by 4 tabs. Bend the tabs up so the volume pot assembly comes apart. Bend the four internal swiping arms out a little so they make better contact. Clean the centre ring that the inner swiping arms touch. Then put it all back together.

#16 1 year ago

Another idea I had was to check the ohms on the speakers. They are supposed to be 8 ohms each. I disconnected them to get a reading. They were all over, no consistent reading at all.

Not sure if the extra info I've provided is useful, just trying to give as much info as possible.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Those door volume pots often go flakey.
So it looks like the orange wire to the speaker is ground.
The white wire to the speaker comes from the coin door volume pot.
Measure the resistance from the white wire back to the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. As you adjust the volume control on the door the resistance reading should change from zero ohms when set to max volume to 100 ohms when set to minimum volume. If you're getting readings way beyond 100 ohms, it's likely the swiper arms inside the volume pot is going open circuit.
You can buy a replacement volume pot from Jameco:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found#post-4488849
Or you can fix yours. It's held together by 4 tabs. Bend the tabs up so the volume pot assembly comes apart. Bend the four internal swiping arms out a little so they make better contact. Clean the centre ring that the inner swiping arms touch. Then put it all back together.

One thing I noticed is the orange wire is connected to the post with a + on it on both speakers. Would it be the ground?
I will do the test on the pot tomorrow morning and report my results.
Thanks for your continued help!

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

One thing I noticed is the orange wire is connected to the post with a + on it on both speakers.

That's funny. Normal practice is to wire ground the the "-" lug. So long as it's connected to the same lug on both speakers it's fine. The problem comes when the wires are crossed on one speaker because as one speaker pushes out, the other speaker will pull in and sort of cancels the sound.

BTW, those speakers are wired in parallel.

#19 1 year ago

Just noticing the original idc connector, what appears to be original caps except for one, same for pots, and the corrosion on the rom legs, for starters. From what i’ve Read all this stuff is swapped out in the normal course of fixing sound issues.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Those door volume pots often go flakey.
So it looks like the orange wire to the speaker is ground.
The white wire to the speaker comes from the coin door volume pot.
Measure the resistance from the white wire back to the negative lead of capacitor C8 on the sound board. As you adjust the volume control on the door the resistance reading should change from zero ohms when set to max volume to 100 ohms when set to minimum volume. If you're getting readings way beyond 100 ohms, it's likely the swiper arms inside the volume pot is going open circuit.
You can buy a replacement volume pot from Jameco:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found#post-4488849
Or you can fix yours. It's held together by 4 tabs. Bend the tabs up so the volume pot assembly comes apart. Bend the four internal swiping arms out a little so they make better contact. Clean the centre ring that the inner swiping arms touch. Then put it all back together.

Took the pot off and repaired as you suggested. Its much more stable now, seems to be working well using the meter with the highest reading being 104 ohms. I checked resistance between the neg leg of C8 and the white wire. I got no reading at all. I tested the other wires and got readings off the black wire only at the pot. I looked at the schematic and saw that the speaker wire colors were reversed on the sound board. The orange wire should be in 1 and the black should be in 2. I switched them and now I'm getting a good reading off of the white wire at the pot and C8. Still no sound.

It's odd to me that the sound actually worked once yesterday, why would it decide to work once then quit again?

#21 1 year ago

This may or may not be helpful, but I recently had to rebuild both a sounds plus board and a vocalizer board for similar issues on my project xenon. I was missing a few pieces of speech from the vocalizer board (hissing instead of speech), sound was all over the place and it would randomly just not work at all.
In the end I replaced the following:
- all caps
- board headers
- replaced the IDC connector with a molex
- new sound and speech pots
- all sockets replaced
- new roms as old ones were corroded
- replaced CR1 - CR3 on the vocalizer board with 1n5404s mounted further off the board to help keep them cooler.

I also had to switch the jumpers on the vocalizer as well to support the new roms. Vid1900 covered the vocalizer jumpers in a topic he posted a while back here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-vocalizer-eprom-repair-vids-guide.
Technically, I probably just needed to replace the caps and roms, but I wanted the board to be updated so I wouldn't have to touch it again.

Mine works great now. I still need to replace the volume pot on the coin door, but mine appears to be working fairly well thus far.

#22 1 year ago

Not the cause of your immediate problem but if those speakers are 8 ohms, They should be wired in series, they are now wired in parallel which gives 4 ohms to the amp. Might have blown the audio amp. Test the speaker resistance with your meter by placing your leads on the two pin connector pins that go to the speakers.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Another idea I had was to check the ohms on the speakers. They are supposed to be 8 ohms each. I disconnected them to get a reading. They were all over, no consistent reading at all.
Not sure if the extra info I've provided is useful, just trying to give as much info as possible.

Test the total ohms at the connector that plugs into the sound board

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from jj44114:

Test the total ohms at the connector that plugs into the sound board

Tested tonight.......I'm getting close to 100. I thought that would have been based on the volume pot?

#25 1 year ago

Tonight I went through the schematic again looking for voltages on the sound plus card. All voltages are correct. I also used a different 8 ohm speaker. Still no sound.

I suppose I can start replacing all the caps and pots. I will need to order those parts. I'd like to be able to track down the issue, especially with it actually working once yesterday before using the shotgun approach.

Again, thanks for any advice in getting this figured out.

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Tested tonight.......I'm getting close to 100. I thought that would have been based on the volume pot?

I think you are not measuring it right. Then just test each speaker. 8 ohms?

#27 1 year ago

Based on your past comments I’m not sure you are measuring resistance correctly.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from jj44114:

They should be wired in series, they are now wired in parallel which gives 4 ohms to the amp. Might have blown the audio amp.

The parallel wiring in that picture on those speakers looks factory. The TDA2002 amp is designed to drive loads down to 1.6 ohms, so a 4 ohms load isn't going to blow it. Remember the speaker load is hanging off the 100 ohm wirewound volume pot anyway so under normal circumstances the amp won't see a load that low.

OP, are you reading 100 ohms at the output of the sound board no matter where you have the coin door volume set?
When the coin door volume is at max volume position you should read 4 ohms. When the pot is at minimum volume you should read 100 ohms. The resistance reading should change as you adjust the volume.

If you always read 100 ohms no matter where the volume pot is positioned, it says you've got an open circuit between the volume pot and the speakers, or both speakers are open circuited (unlikely for two of them to go but still possible).

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The parallel wiring in that picture on those speakers looks factory. The TDA2002 amp is designed to drive loads down to 1.6 ohms, so a 4 ohms load isn't going to blow it. Remember the speaker load is hanging off the 100 ohm wirewound volume pot anyway so under normal circumstances the amp won't see a load that low.
OP, are you reading 100 ohms at the output of the sound board no matter where you have the coin door volume set?
When the coin door volume is at max volume position you should read 4 ohms. When the pot is at minimum volume you should read 100 ohms. The resistance reading should change as you adjust the volume.
If you always read 100 ohms no matter where the volume pot is positioned, it says you've got an open circuit between the volume pot and the speakers, or both speakers are open circuited (unlikely for two of them to go but still possible).

The output of the sound board changes as you adjust the volume. It meters from 7.5 to 103.

#30 1 year ago

Cool, ok the speakers are out of the way now.

What voltage do you measure on the "+" leg of capacitor C8 on the sound board? That's essentially output of the TDA2002 amplifier and it should be about half the voltage you measured at the power pin (pin 5) of the amplifier. Pin 5 was previously measured at 15 volts, so the + leg of C8 should be around 7.5 volts.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Cool, ok the speakers are out of the way now.
What voltage do you measure on the "+" leg of capacitor C8 on the sound board? That's essentially output of the TDA2002 amplifier and it should be about half the voltage you measured at the power pin (pin 5) of the amplifier. Pin 5 was previously measured at 15 volts, so the + leg of C8 should be around 7.5 volts.

Just ran home to check. Only getting .15 volts. Does that mean a bad amp?

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Does that mean a bad amp?

Pretty likely.
Check the input signal voltages to the amp. Pins 1 and 2 should also be about half the amps power supply voltage.
For easier access, the "+" leg of capacitor C5 goes to pin 1 of the amp, and the "+" leg of capacitor C7 goes to pin 2 of the amp.

BTW, you should also check if any of C5, C7, C8 or C25 are shorted.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Pretty likely.
Check the input signal voltages to the amp. Pins 1 and 2 should also be about half the amps power supply voltage.
For easier access, the "+" leg of capacitor C5 goes to pin 1 of the amp, and the "+" leg of capacitor C7 goes to pin 2 of the amp.
BTW, you should also check if any of C5, C7, C8 or C25 are shorted.

Checked input voltages. + leg of C5 is .14 VDC. + leg of C7 measures .06 VDC. Pin 5 of the amp still measures 14.9VDC.

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Checked input voltages. + leg of C5 is .14 VDC. + leg of C7 measures .06 VDC. Pin 5 of the amp still measures 14.9VDC.

The input and output voltages at the amp should be centre biased (half the power voltage). You're getting zero volts on each. It's time to replace that TDA2002 amplifier chip at U9 on the Sound Plus board. BTW does the heatsink it's attached to get warm after a few minutes of being on?
Inspect the back of the board when you pull it out around the amplifier for anything that looks obviously wrong (damaged).

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The input and output voltages at the amp should be centre biased (half the power voltage). You're getting zero volts on each. It's time to replace that TDA2002 amplifier chip at U9 on the Sound Plus board. BTW does the heatsink it's attached to get warm after a few minutes of being on?
Inspect the back of the board when you pull it out around the amplifier for anything that looks obviously wrong (damaged).

I've never noticed that sink getting warm. The sink on the vocalize gets warm. I dont see any obvious burn damage. I ordered a couple am chips.

#36 1 year ago

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Will do. Thanks for your help!

#38 1 year ago

If those speakers were wired in parallel from the factory then it was a mistake. I Have seen many games from that era, always wired in series. And... a 4ohm load will blow a 40 year old TDA2002 at full volume.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from jj44114:

If those speakers were wired in parallel from the factory then it was a mistake. I Have seen many games from that era, always wired in series. And... a 4ohm load will blow a 40 year old TDA2002 at full volume.

Mistake? Mmm, nah. 4 ohm load is fully within spec of the TDA2002.
Another factory parallel speaker wiring pic from "the-dirtiest-xenon-on-planet-earth" thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-dirtiest-xenon-on-planet-earth#post-4847425

Xenon_Speakers1.jpg

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Got the new TDA2002 amp in yesterday and installed. Still no sound. I checked voltages on the + leg of C5 and C7 and still not getting good voltage. I ordered the TDA2002 amps (2 of them) from eBay because GPE is sold out. Any chance they could be bad? I still have an extra. Yesterday I put my head down toward the bottom of the cabinet and I "may have" heard a slight noise when I flipped the power switch. Nothing at all past that. Silent.

Still have not gotten the cap replacements. Any next steps?

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Got the new TDA2002 amp in yesterday and installed. Still no sound. I checked voltages on the + leg of C5 and C7 and still not getting good voltage. I ordered the TDA2002 amps (2 of them) from eBay because GPE is sold out. Any chance they could be bad? I still have an extra. Yesterday I put my head down toward the bottom of the cabinet and I "may have" heard a slight noise when I flipped the power switch. Nothing at all past that. Silent.
Still have not gotten the cap replacements. Any next steps?

TDA2002 is obsolete. You will have better luck looking for TDA2003 which is a replacement but still obsolete from STM. A lot of the STM parts you see on eBay are counterfeit but still work. I have read people say the counterfeit TDA2003 lack short circuit protection like the real ones do but otherwise ok. Not sure what to expect from TDA2002 marked stuff from eBay tho.

There is still a company in Taiwan that make legit good TDA2003 which is a drop in replacement. I have used plenty of them.
http://www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/TDA2003.pdf

Have you checked TP4? When sound is triggered and should be playing noise TP4 should start to pulse and be flat 0v when no sound. If you get action on TP4 the CPU is probably running OK.

Then check TP6. When sound is playing you should see ~1 VAC there when sound in progress. If nothing there but you get action at TP4 replace the sound chip.

#42 1 year ago

I love these threads even if I don't own the game (I do in this case) or have a similar problem...following.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

TDA2002 is obsolete. You will have better luck looking for TDA2003 which is a replacement but still obsolete from STM. A lot of the STM parts you see on eBay are counterfeit but still work. I have read people say the counterfeit TDA2003 lack short circuit protection like the real ones do but otherwise ok. Not sure what to expect from TDA2002 marked stuff from eBay tho.
There is still a company in Taiwan that make legit good TDA2003 which is a drop in replacement. I have used plenty of them.
http://www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/TDA2003.pdf
Have you checked TP4? When sound is triggered and should be playing noise TP4 should start to pulse and be flat 0v when no sound. If you get action on TP4 the CPU is probably running OK.
Then check TP6. When sound is playing you should see ~1 VAC there when sound in progress. If nothing there but you get action at TP4 replace the sound chip.

When I check TP4 I get almost nothing, however when I press the test button the voltage on TP 4 goes to 3.8VDC. I did this a couple of times with the same results. I also checked TP6. I'm getting .003VAC. No change at TP6 when I press the test button. One interesting thing at TP4 is I sometime get 5 volts.

While checking the voltages this evening I "messed" with the volume knob on the door. I believe I turned it completely up and I now can hear a hum along with a change in hum with the displays. I am also now hearing a pop when I flip the power switch. A couple of times I heard the same pop when I pressed the test button. Should I consider that progress?

Question: In what order should the wires be soldered to the volume pot on the door? Would it make a difference?

#44 1 year ago
20190723_223137 (resized).jpg
#45 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

When I check TP4 I get almost nothing, however when I press the test button the voltage on TP 4 goes to 3.8VDC. I did this a couple of times with the same results. I also checked TP6. I'm getting .003VAC. No change at TP6 when I press the test button. One interesting thing at TP4 is I sometime get 5 volts.
While checking the voltages this evening I "messed" with the volume knob on the door. I believe I turned it completely up and I now can hear a hum along with a change in hum with the displays. I am also now hearing a pop when I flip the power switch. A couple of times I heard the same pop when I pressed the test button. Should I consider that progress?
Question: In what order should the wires be soldered to the volume pot on the door? Would it make a difference?

It is normal to get some display noise to come out the speaker when volume is adjusted high. That means the amplifier and volume control is probably working fine.

TP4 is the VMA. It should be flat 0v when no sound, that is normal. If you get pulsing there when sound would be playing the sound board CPU is running. I don't think it should ever be solid high / 5v.

For TP6 set DMM for lowest range AC volts. Repair book says it should be 0.35vac +/- 1vac when sound is playing and 0vac when no sound. If it never changes from 0v then the sound chip is never making sound. Since the VMA is active when sound should be playing I'd suspect the sound chip or maybe the PIA. With a logic probe you can watch the PIA ports connected to the sound chip (labeled DA0). They should go active when sound should be playing.

The speech board complicates things. An issue on the speech card could mess up the sound board. I don't know what to expect from the software if the speech board is not connected, but I'd assume it would work, so maybe try with the speech card ribbon cable off.

The bally repair book is pretty good for this board. It doesn't talk about the speech board tho. Around page 75.
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Pin%20Repair.pdf

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

It is normal to get some display noise to come out the speaker when volume is adjusted high. That means the amplifier and volume control is probably working fine.
TP4 is the VMA. It should be flat 0v when no sound, that is normal. If you get pulsing there when sound would be playing the sound board CPU is running. I don't think it should ever be solid high / 5v.
For TP6 set DMM for lowest range AC volts. Repair book says it should be 0.35vac +/- 1vac when sound is playing and 0vac when no sound. If it never changes from 0v then the sound chip is never making sound. Since the VMA is active when sound should be playing I'd suspect the sound chip or maybe the PIA. With a logic probe you can watch the PIA ports connected to the sound chip (labeled DA0). They should go active when sound should be playing.
The speech board complicates things. An issue on the speech card could mess up the sound board. I don't know what to expect from the software if the speech board is not connected, but I'd assume it would work, so maybe try with the speech card ribbon cable off.
The bally repair book is pretty good for this board. It doesn't talk about the speech board tho. Around page 75.
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Pin%20Repair.pdf

Where would be the best place to get a new sound chip? thanks for your help.

#47 1 year ago

AY-3-8910 is obsolete so you may be looking at a donor board or the gray market. Some clones/alternatives where manufactured later and may be easier to find. File made KC89C72 which is drop in replacement until like 2012. Winbond WF19054 is another drop in ready clone. Yamaha YM2149F should work too.

ebay.com link » 3pcs New Kc89c72

REMARK! but at 400+ pcs sold they are probably ok.
ebay.com link » 1pcs Ay 3 8910a Programmable Sound Generator Ic Dip40 New

http://www.arcadechips.com/product_info.php?products_id=154

If you have a donor board with a 6821 PIA on it, maybe try that too in your sound board.

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

AY-3-8910 is obsolete so you may be looking at a donor board or the gray market.

This is totally not true! I bought one from Marco 2 weeks ago. In fact somebody goofed in shipping. When it arrived there was a 2nd one on top of the first. Not realizing but wondering why it was so thick, I pushed it into the socket. Then I realized the legs on the 2nd where pinching it to the first. Pryed it off. So I have a spare. If you want it or Marco doesn’t have anymore let me know. But they are still available and not obsolete unless i just got lucky. But still showing in stock

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Ay3-8910

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from EdHess:

This is totally not true! I bought one from Marco 2 weeks ago. In fact somebody goofed in shipping. When it arrived there was a 2nd one on top of the first. Not realizing but wondering why it was so thick, I pushed it into the socket. Then I realized the legs on the 2nd where pinching it to the first. Pryed it off. So I have a spare. If you want it or Marco doesn’t have anymore let me know. But they are still available and not obsolete unless i just got lucky. But still showing in stock
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Ay3-8910

Thanks. Just ordered one at arcadechips last night.

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from EdHess:

This is totally not true! I bought one from Marco 2 weeks ago. In fact somebody goofed in shipping. When it arrived there was a 2nd one on top of the first. Not realizing but wondering why it was so thick, I pushed it into the socket. Then I realized the legs on the 2nd where pinching it to the first. Pryed it off. So I have a spare. If you want it or Marco doesn’t have anymore let me know. But they are still available and not obsolete unless i just got lucky. But still showing in stock
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Ay3-8910

That is nice Marco sells them but that does not change the obsolete status of the part. Obsolete = no longer manufacture . I would guess GI discontinued production 10+ years ago. $14 @ marco vs a used pull for a $1.... I'd rather get 10 used pulls from eBay and take my chances that there that most to all I get will be working.... buts that is me. No gaurantee listed the that Marco will send you a new part. Since you mention the chip was stacked two tall is a common way they are packed in bulk coming Chiina. They might be reselling used pulls too with a 1000% markup.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889808983.html
$6.20 shipped for the 10pcs of the File slot machine clone part. Drop in replacement.

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